Faded Ripple
a new take on an old pattern
Crochet Pattern
Intermediate Skill Level
Designed by Jessie Rayot
This ripple pattern puts a new twist on a classic afghan crochet pattern. This stitch pattern works for afghans/throws, or wraps, or scarves, or a variety of other projects. Faded ripple is a great stitch to use with stripes, as it gives a pretty detail to color changes. It can be used with just about any size yarn and the coordinating hook. I do not recommend novelty yarns, as the textures of the yarn can make the stitches difficult or just take away from the look of the stitch pattern.
Sizes:
Whatever size you want to make!
Yarn:
Pretty much any size “regular” yarn. Not recommended for novelty yarns
Hook:
Whichever size coordinates with your yarn.
Gauge:
Not important! Though you may want to make a 2 repeat (56 chains to begin) swatch that is a few rows tall to determine how many repeats you need for your own finished item. (For example, if your swatch measures 10 inches, you know each repeat is 5 inches. If you are making a baby blanket and want it to be about 36 inches, you will ch enough for 7 repeats (7 rep x 5 inches = 35 inches) in order to get the size you want.)
Stitches and Skills used:
Ch ~ chain
dc ~ double crochet
dc2tog ~ double crochet 2 together (explained)
cl ~ cluster (explained)
St(s) ~ stitch(es)
Sk ~ skip
Beg ~ beginning
Rep ~ repeat
cl ~ cluster: for this pattern the cluster stitch is a cluster of 2 dcs worked together in the same st as follows:
yo, insert hook through next stitch, yo, pull back through stitch (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook) yo, insert hook through same stitch, yo, pull hook back through stitch (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 3 loops.
Pattern:
Ch a multiple of 28
Row 1: dc in bottom loop of 4th ch from hook, (sk1, cl in the next ch) 5 times, sk1, (cl, ch3, cl) in next ch, (sk1, cl in the next ch) 6 times, *skip 3 chs, cl in the next ch, (sk1, cl in the next ch) 5 times, sk1 (cl, ch3, cl) in next ch, (sk1, cl in the next ch) 6 times, rep from * until end of row is reached
Starting with row 2 you will be working in the spaces between the cluster stitches. This means you will be inserting your hook under the v at the top of the previous row, and the bar just below it. Make sure to reference the photos above to be sure you are placing your stitches correctly.
Row 2: ch3, dc in first sp (counts as first cl), (cl in the next sp) 5 times, (cl, ch3, cl) in ch3 sp, (cl in the next sp) 6 times, *skip 1 sp, (cl in the next sp) 6 times, (cl, ch3, cl) in ch3 sp, (cl in the next sp) 6 times, rep from * until end of row is reached, without making last cl. To make last st, work a dc2tog as follows:
yo, insert hook into next sp, yo, pull through st, (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops, (2 loops on hook), yo, insert hook into top ch of the beg ch3 of the previous row, yo, pull through st, (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops, (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through all loops
Rep row 2 to desired length
Tips:
When changing color, do not finish off last st of your row, make the st all the way to the last yo/pull through and stop. Change color and make the final yo/pull though with the new color, then start the next row. This will make your color change look more finished.
Here is a chart for you as well. It does not show that the stitches are worked in between the clusters, but otherwise, it is true to the pattern.
For my baby blanket, I used a #5 yarn (Berroco Weekend Chunky, 5 skeins each of: 6923 Tomatillo, 6904 Pebble, 6957 Grape, 6941 Sea Glass) and started with a chain of 140. I then edged it with 2 rows of sc, placing 2sc in the side of each row, and 2sc in each cl on the top and bottom of the blanket. If I were to make it again, I might start with 112 chains, and make each color 2 rows so that I could carry the yarn up one side for the color changes; I hate weaving in ends!!
Here are some color plan options, my baby blanket used the last one. (They are shown with 4 colors, 1 row at a time, but, as I said before, I would make them each 2 rows so that the yarn can be carried up the side)
And…here are some samples in other weight yarns made by my fabulous testers!!
Brenda Lee Dukeman, Sock Weight (#1) Yarn,
A-Amethyst- premier yarns serenity sock weight
B-Lilac ice-Aunt Lydias iced bamboo
C-Navy/marine premier yarns serenity sock weight
D-antique white Bernat Baby
Becky Dirlam
Sport Weight (#3) Yarn
Bernat Baby Sport in mint
Leah Feild
Worsted Weight (#4) Yarn
Red Heart with Love in Peacock and Pewter
Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn in Old Rose.
To find a printer friendly version of this pattern (text only, in black, no photos) click here. This will bring you to the listing for this pattern on Craftsy, where you can also find printer friendly versions of all my free patterns, and where you can purchase my sale patterns.
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