A legend in his own lifetime, Biyan Wanaatmadja never fails to captivate with his collections.
Words: Victoria Bannerman Photos: JP/Jerry Adiguna, courtesy of Biyan
The good and the great, the bold and the beautiful, the darn right eccentric, bourgeois and uber eclectic gathered in the magnificent Hotel Mulia Senayan. The assembled beau monde dazzled from their perfectly coiffed heads to impossibly pristine manicured toes as they awaited the Biyan Spring/ Summer 2015 show.
Never had there been so many Louboutins, Olympias,Choos, Blahniks, Miu Miu, Gucci,McQueens,Steigers and Vuittons stomping any given square footage as this charmed evening.
Wait no more – it was time to enter the unlimited and ineffable beauty of the world of Biyan Wanaatmadja.
We were transported to Avatar, the rhapsodic world of Pandora’s verdant habitat of the Na’vi people. Emerging from this verdure inspired phantasmagoria of colossal bamboo trees and swaying emerald ethereal lights were the inconceivably exquisite alluring creatures in a tout ensemble of the Biyan creation. The gasps and cooing of his clientèle said it all. So the smart phones came out to record a favorite outfit, a glaring reminder of how modern technology has slowly but surely taken over our lives.
After 31 years in the business, the designer himself stills shows a deep respect for time-honored beauty, wherever he finds it. The collection – titled Seruni (Chrysanthemum) and with its unfurling sponsored by French skin-care brand IOMA Paris – evinced his admiration of Japanese art and culture infused with tribal influence of the Sumba people.
The cut of the fabrics resulted in silhouettes with asymmetrical dimensions that were awash with extravagant beading and intricate embroidery on fragile tulles and silks. The models glided down the catwalk dressed in beautiful kimonos, breezy, floaty dresses, three quarter length trousers, silk knee length dresses, long and short jackets with ikat tones of enchanting Sumbanese distinctive prints and beading.
My to “to die for pieces” included a sunshine yellow silk dress with billowing sleeves. This dress would not look out of place at a soiree or wedding. The tangerine orange dress was another captivating and euphoric piece to acquire for your Biyan collection! The intricate motif weaving on the dresses were a sight to behold, giving the illusion the bird or flower would come to life at a stroke of a delicate hand. Yes, that is how ravishingly alluring these works of art are.
These are collectors’ items, the sort of pieces you hang on your wall like a painting – a rare piece that makes you the envy of all wherever you may be. With a minimum amount of jewelry and accessories required, Biyan has done it all for you! Pinch your pennies or bend that plastic so far backward to gain coveted access to the B.U.C (Biyan Urbane Club).
Eclectic Appeal
It is clear the collection is geared toward his faithful mature clientele, but methinks why not captivate their daughters too by sending the models down the catwalk with flared jackets, beaded cropped tops and shirt dresses with beautifully cut soft denim” jeans” in blue, black and white “Biyan style” to funk it up for the fillies? The collection’s three quarter length pants matched with a white T-shirt with embellished sleeves, as with the billowing tent black tent dress (the short sleeves are beautifully and intricately embellished with beading) would add a sophisticated upbeat dimension to an already stylish and eclectic show. The sumptuous white embroidered organza/silk dress with pink underlay gave a new meaning to “pretty in pink”, and you could easily get hitched in it, likewise the ice blue chiffon layered dress.
The stripe skirt and top combo is everyday cool. Wear the top with jeans or tailored trousers and the skirt with white stylish stilettos and a crisp white T-shirt, a diamond bracelet and studs and tote –p and you are good to go. Cocoon yourself in the “double wide” flared morning gray trousers (masculine sexiness is what comes to mind), team this with a plain cropped-capped sleeve T shirt and a chunky necklace and you will be one funky Biyan babe!
The long embroidered and beaded dresses were the piece de resistance. The painstaking attention to detail renders them beauty in motion. These would hold their own on the red carpet at the Oscars or at the Governors Ball; the likes of Cate Blanchett ,Nicole Kidman, Julia Roberts, Helen Mirren et al could do worse than have these wares adorn their Oscar-worshipped bodies. This collection could possibly be devoured by Russian oligarchs’ molls and dolls whose insatiable appetite for the consumption of the finer things in life knows no bounds.
Feet Feat
I have an unbridled obsession with shoes and my fine footwear-homing device went into overdrive when it spied the models at the show. My heart skipped an arrestingly irregular beat! These galoshes are the Burj Khalifa of wedges and the equivalent of at least six steamy Saketini’s – and then some. Based on the Geta traditional Japanese footwear and one of its variations, Miako Geta, this wedge is awe inspiring in stature, style and presence.
In them you will stand tall, the Amazonian in your surroundings. Masculine yet feminine, pure and innocent with a “don’t mess with me attitude” you will fear nothing. I am coveting all the styles and colours and will not rest until all are in my possession!
If you can’t stretch your budget to the shoes from the Biyan collection then I will let you into a little secret. There is an online store – www.kurtgeiger.com – that you can purchase wedges from, and the good thing is they deliver to this neck of the woods. Check out Krook, Kola, Contra, Nell and Rincona all” funktified” wedges to make you look cool. See how generous I am!
The only downside is that the 2015 Biyan collection will not be available for the time being. So you will have to wait … but they say patience is a virtue.
Me, I am off to figure out how to be part of the B.U.C. I have to say I am completely seduced and dream of strutting my stuff in those darn sexy Geisha wedges! I heart Biyan.
Hue & Try
It’s no time to be shy about color, men.
Bold, electric colors marked Milan Fashion Week’s Menswear Summer 2015 collections last week.Economic indicators suggest men have become as fashion-conscious as women. Now Milan fashion designers are offering fashion-forward men ever more daring looks, digging into sartorial embellishments that long have been the playthings of women’s fashion: brocade, embroidery, sequins and jewel tones.