2008, Subaru Legacy Spec-B
Color: Quartz Silver Metallic
Miles: 156,000 (40k on the engine, almost $6k spent over the last year or so keeping it mechanically perfect - as best I can. e.g. new steering rack, pads, rotors, rims, tires, oem power steering pump, etc.)
Transmission: 6 spd
Title: Clean, in hand
Lien: None
Location: Yorba Linda, CA
VIN: (4S3BL696X83203028)
Seller's email address: drew888jones@gmail.com
Asking Price: $16, 000
A little wordy, but bear with me.
Drew’s 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec-B, Asking $16k as is, OBO.
This body style was made for only two years (2008-09- previous body style started in 2005) and the Spec-B denotes a limited edition that uses some of the best parts from the STI such as Bilstein inverted struts, Aluminum control arms, STI 6 speed transmission, the much stronger R180 rear Torsen limited slip differential. On the interior the only addition to a Spec-B different from a standard Legacy GT is Navigation, and Suede like Alcantara inserts on the seats.
A quick history lesson, the modifications all started by joining LegacyGT.com. It started with brake pads, stainless brake lines, and sway-bars. After that a little here and a little there until there wasn’t much left to upgrade.
I blew a piston ring-land (as quite a few do) almost five years ago and had a fully forged engine built. Problem there is I chose the wrong builder and $5k turned into almost $11k trying to chase engine related issues and fix them. It’s a story too long to share here (all documented on NASIOC). The gist of it is that he installed STI 9.2:1 pistons in an engine that comes with D25 heads. This effectively raised the compression ratio to somewhere around 9.8:1 or more. After fighting him for two years, and getting dangerously close to going to court over it, I gave up and asked Jeff (Crystal_Imprezav on NASIOC) to build the bottom end. I bought the Cosworth heads from BallPeenHamr (NASIOC), I had Mike of Infamous performance put it all together, and Bill of Delicious Tuning tune it. If you’re willing to search on either NASIOC.com or LegacyGT.com my car and its history can easily be found.
Yes it’s blast to drive. It is comfortable, quick, brakes and handles well and it’s running great. Now it’s time to move on and although I have loved driving this car I can’t seem to get its future replacement out of my head so it’s time.
The below is the mod list and pictures. At the top of the list are several notable items - things rare in a modified LGT so I thought to start with that.
· HKS CAMP II electronic gauges. These are displayed on the navigation screen by pressing the info button twice (connected via an RCA video input on the rear of the radio). The main unit is inside the dash just to the right of the gauges and to the left of the center vent.
o It reads ODB II data, has different display options, peak hold for monitored gauges, and a visual/audio alarm for going over a parameter you have set. Additional gauges were sourced and added such as EGT, turbo boost, and oil temperature.
· The open front differential was upgraded using an LSD from a 2004 STI. This LSD I never saw first-hand as it went straight to the shop for the install. It has to be either a Suretrac or if from a late 2004 a Helical/Torsen. Either is a huge improvement over the oem open diff (this is a $500 part and a $5-700 install, very rare to find someone who has upgraded the front diff.)
· Kenwood KNA-VC300 Microphone and Talk Switch. This adds voice recognition to your OEM navigation system.
· AutoWindow - TapTurn module (search for TapTurn flasher on LegacyGT.com). Basically, tap the turn signal once and the light blinks anywhere from 1 to 5 times (adjustable). I have it set for five blinks.
· Grillcraft upper and lower front bumper grill inserts – my Spec-B was the first and it’s the silver LGT advertised on their website (cost here is maybe $75-100ea, was $169 ea new).
Now the mod list. There is a lot of stuff here so take your time.
Electronics/Tuning
Cobb Tuning AccessPort v2 (AP-SUB-003)
Delicious Stg4 Tune 330whp/336wtq performed at Infamous Performance
GrimmSpeed EBCS
Innovative MTX-L Wideband o2 – This sits in an AVO gauge pod on the dash.
Turbo/Induction/Exhaust
Tomioka 20G /TD05H – Maybe 60k mi and no shaft play as of when the engine went in.
RacerX FMIC Piping w/ Larger Custom Core Tomioka EL Header + Up pipe (DEI Titanium Heat Wrapped)
Turbo XS Catted DP (DEI Titanium Heat Wrapped)
Perrin, Mid-Ypipe, Prodrive Mufflers – The famous Prodrives. $4-500 used if you sell them
KS-Tech 73mm CAI
AEM Dry Flow Filter
GoFastBits Respons Recirculating BPV (Black)
GrimmSpeed 8mm Phenolic Spacers – Was planning for the future with this mod. Easier to support a 3” turbo
Perrin Performance Turbo Inlet Hose (Black)
Infamous Performance Turbo/AVCS Oil Supply Line v2
Crawford Air Oil Separator V2 – You can easily get away without this unless racing with a larger turbo (my original plan). I may remove this prior to sale. I’m not sure yet.
Kartboy Exhaust Hangers
Drivetrain/Engine/Fueling
Stage 4 – Forged Manley pistons 9.2:1 - Instead of 8.2:1? So there is more torque off boost.
ACL Race Bearings
ARP Head Studs
OEM STI 11mm Oil Pump (shimmed)
Gates Racing Timing Kit
Cosworth “like” Heads – 2007 STI V25B modified and purchased from BallPeenHamr (a Cosworth employee whose job is to build all Cosworth heads) on NASIOC.com. Much more detail is there from pictures to before/after specs.
5 angle valve job
Ported/Polished/Seat/Bowl blend/Ferrea dual valve springs hardened spring seats and locks, titanium retainers, Stock STI cams.
OEM valves and seals
OEM WRX Water Pump
OEM STI Head Gasket
Clutchmasters FX300 Clutch
Factory installed STi Short Throw shift kit
Perrin Pitch Stop Mount
Group N Transmission Mount
Techna-Fit Stainless Steel Clutch Line (Silver)
Killer B Motorsports Oil Pick Up
Killer B Motorsports Windage Tray
Killer B Motorsports Oil Pan
Fumoto Oil Drain Plug/Valve
Brisk Silver Spark Plugs
Custom DW 65c fuel pump assembly – With IP&T Pump Housing Bracket
Deatschwerks 850cc Fuel Injectors – Recently flow tested all to 810cc. I’d suggest an upgrade to 1000cc & a 1.5XT-R while at it ;)
Suspension/Brakes
Full Brembo BBK – GOLD - Bought New for a 2004 STI. Yep not used, only about 50k miles on them and very clean.
Koni inserts / Epic Springs – Front inserts are new with maybe 10-15k at most
Whiteline Com-C Strut Tops – I wanted a more forgiving strut top over the GTWorx Camber plates
Alignment: -2.0*f/-1.5*r
Grimspeed Master Cylinder brace (VDC)
Techna-Fit Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Perrin front Endlinks
Kartboy Rear Endlinks
Cobb (Hochkis) Front/Rear Sway Bars (22mm/22mm-Adjustable)
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushing Kit (KSR207)
Whiteline Anti Lift Kit (KCA334)
Whiteline LCA
Whiteline Roll Center Adjusters
Wheels/Tires
Rota G-Force 18x8.5 +48 Hyper Black
Dunlop Direzza Sport ZII 235/40R18 – Both tires/wheels installed last June.
Engine Bay
Mishimoto Radiator
Custom Coolant Overflow Tank – Using aluminum tubing and capping the ends. See the pictures, very unique.
IZIX Hood Struts – I installed them in 2009 and they are still working like new.
Subtle Solutions Alternator Cover (Black)
Optima Yellow Battery – This has been in the car for years and after sitting for the thanksgiving weekend (4 days) it still shows 11.8v The older yellow tops are great.
Exterior/Interior
HKS CAMP II (w/additional gauges added, oil pressure, EGT, boost)
Headlights Cleared/TSX-R Lenses
TRS Morimoto Stage II HID Kit (5000k/35w)
Toshiba 9011 HIR1 Hi-Beams
Tint (35% front, 20% rear)
GrillCraft Upper grill
Grillcraft Lower grill
RBS rear spoiler V1 – Paint has faded on the top and this needs to be redone.
RBS front lip – Cracked in the middle. I like it and I like the look so if you can do light fiberglass repair then keep it and be different.
TRF Legacy Rear Diffuser
Hella Supertones – Installed just behind the right headlight
Prova Blue Wide View Side Mirror – Only on the left side. I had both but had to break the passenger side to install the one purchased in the group buy on LegacyGT.com. I then didn’t like it as much and never did the driver’s side. The Prova overlays are very rare and superior so I kept it.
DAMD JDM Steering Wheel Carbon (Black) – This will be removed and sold separately. Just before my oem warranty ran out I warrantied the stock wheel but never installed it. When I remove the DAMD I’ll install a brand new/never used OEM wheel.
Redlinegoods.com Shift Boot/E-brake boot (Black)
Misc.
Debadged (soon) – Never got around to it.
Input Nav while driving hack.
Kenwood Mic for voice commands to Nav. To come off and sell separately - Maybe
Tap Turn - turn signal flasher. To come off and sell separately - Maybe
SLM1 Sunroof mod. – I have this but never installed it. I may sell it separately or throw it in with the sale.
Subaru OEM rain guards – To come off and sell separately - Maybe, depends on final sale price
Comments on the car.
Engine:
Car is running great, when cold the idle is a little rough but after 1minute it smooth’s out nicely. No signs of ping (pre detonation), and holds AFR perfectly. I seem to add 1/4qt of oil approximately every 3rd week so about 1qt for every 3000-3300 miles! Please do know that this is only if I drive aggressively and stay in boost most of the time. If I were to seldom boost it and 3-3500rpm was where I shift 90% of the time I am certain it would use little to no oil at all. Not bad for a quality rebuild.
Exterior:
The first 5 years of its existence was commuting from Yorba Linda to Glendale which is 45.5 miles one way. There is a lot happening on this very busy commute and I have many chips on the front bumper to show for it. Some are on the hood as well. At one point, I have no idea how, but a steel pipe (about a foot long) was flying at me in the air end over end and hit the top of the hood on the right side then flew over the windshield missing the rest of the car. At a glance no one notices. The front headlights are average and yellow a bit over time. About every 4 months I polish them nice and clear again.
On the sides of the car there are only two dings. One is by the fuel door which I had for most of its life. The other is new from an idiot in a parking lot on the right rear passenger door. At some point I ran over something and the right side valance/rocker panel (?) got hit hard with two indentations/scrapes. At the rear, only the bumper needs attention. During my long Glendale commutes I was bumped twice by someone following too closely in 10 mph traffic. Light contact but enough to leave a few marks behind.
To be perfect it needs a new front bumper skin, new hood (or repaired), new rear bumper skin (possibly a new rear foam support brace or whatever it’s called) and new lower left valance. I was going to take it a step further and replace the mirrors as the plastic is fading and they are only $135 ea from Subaru. This would make it like new again both inside and out.
I had a crack in the windshield a while back and replaced it using Safelite Auto Glass. Their glass is not the same as OEM and I now have two round cracks that could/should be filled in/repaired.
Interior:
It’s almost perfect for a car with 156k miles. It looks better than most do at 50k. The rear seat looks like it’s never been sat in. The carpet is perfect as it’s been covered, both front and rear, with WeatherTech mats since day one. The front seating area shows a slight hint of wear but nothing to really draw attention to. I have always been very careful how I got into and out of my cars. I never put any weight on the left side bolster when getting in or out and the seats look great.
I don’t smoke and I have the IR receiver for the HKS Camp II taped to the front of the cigarette lighter. I lined the cigarette ash container on the left side with a rubber liner and I use this place to keep the remote control for the Camp II.
The audio signal from the HKS Camp II runs under the center console, into the armrest box, and plugs into the AUX in. I have a simple splitter so I can still plug in my phone for music.
Does the car need anything?
I have done everything possible to keep the car as reliable as possible. I have done all oil changes myself and on this engine I have only used a mix of 2 qts Castrol 0-30 (German) and 3+ of Valvoline Racing 20-50. I have given this some thought because the car really doesn’t need anything attended to but I would consider a couple of things. The OEM harmonic balancer is original to the first OEM engine and maybe time to replace it. The other are spark plugs in another 20k miles. The Tomioka turbo was checked for shaft play/wear by Infamous Performance when it was reinstalled onto this newer engine. No shaft play and it looked good. It was already used (mileage unknown) so it’s holding up really well and nothing to be concerned about. Really, that’s all. You could buy it and drive it as your daily driver without worry. It's still my daily driver and has been since day one.
Wish list maybe?
If I kept it I’d upgrade the injectors to 1000cc (already have these in the garage). I’d install a Blouch 1.5XTR and get it tuned. After that, maybe a larger BBK to better handle the additional WHP (AP Racing most likely). There won’t be anything left to upgrade except audio or under braces.
Just drive it and enjoy a great car already nicely set up for you.
That’s about it.
For any questions, ping me. I know every inch of this car and can go over anything I may have left out.
-Drew
New pictures from yesterday - 12/21.
I have the car washed just before taking these pics but I have not cleaned the engine bay nor the interior. The engine bay has a light coat of dust as you can see. Speaking of the engine bay, If I were to keep the car I was just about to order new TI wrap to replace what is currently on the FMIC piping. It's been on there a while and after installing the new headers with new wrap...it's clear that a clean engine bay, new wrap, and reinstall the Subtle Solutions Alt. cover would really make it look good. Interior just needs a good vacuum.
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