2013-12-24

Bengalis are always crazy about travelling and finding new places,we are not exceptional.We are four friends(Joydeep,Avishek,Riktam and me) working in different sectors decided to have a break from work and get a jungle experience (without any mobile network to get rid off official phones).I have already travelled in Sikkim, North bengal several times and tried to go all the farthest corners.I have seen this part of the country is having one of the best scenic beauty in India but due to less publicity,poor connectivity and less nos of accommodation, It is not popular.However this is also a boon for nature lovers like us :). I was given the big responsibility to find a spot with a combination of dense forest,river and mountains.The first places came in my mind were Jayanti, Chilapata, Jaldapara,after reading so many reports from IM I decided to go Chilapata and Jayanti.Finally booked Chilapata Jungle Camp in Chilapata for two days and Rovers Inn in Jayanti for one day.

Journey begins on 6th December'13.Visit to any new place always thrills me a lot.I reached Sealdah Station first and waited for others.We had a tension for our friend Joydeep,who is always a very punctual guy.The old and known KanchanKanya was waiting for us but no sign of Joydeep,ultimately at 8:25,he came with his "Bhubon Bholano Hasi", Kanchankanya was also waiting for him.OUR JOURNEY BEGINS..........:D. We spent our golden four years of engineering in Bolpur-Shantiniketan,so whenever we cross the place I belief everyone of us become nostalgic,this time also we got down at Bolpur Station for a small photo shoot session.At 10:30 we took our dinner.I had taken different Chinese dishes from a famous restaurant of Kolkata so without wasting any time we completed our dinner.

An excellent clear and bright morning was waiting for us.We had our breakfast at NJP with dhosa and tea.After crossing NJP the train entered a dreamland with green tree gardens,forest and a hilly background.Every time I cross the place and become more fond of north east part of the country. Ultimately we reached Hasimara around 11:30AM.

I informed the hotel manager (Buyada) about our arrival and requested him to arrange a car for 4 days. A white colour Bolero was waiting for us at Hasimara Station.Tapan the driver of our Bolero is a slim local guy of Chilapata.He is one of the best drivers and human being I have ever seen.He never said no to any of our demands and was always present with us like a friend and guide with a smiling face.Chilapata Jungle Camp is a property of Help Tourism,Kolkata.It is not in the core area,just outside the forest but located in a very good location and the forest is only 100-200 meters distance from it.This is a Well maintained property,with clean rooms,lots of greeneries ,smiling face stuffs,open area restaurant and a beautiful watch tower.On the way to Jungle Camp after crossing Borodabari,the jungle starts.it is around 15KM dense forest road.We climbed on the Bolero's roof and enjoyed the first sight of forest.After reaching Chilapata,we completed our lunch with fish curry and rice in Bell metal( kansa) utensils.Tapan(our driver) gave us a bad news that Jeep Safari is stopped for last few days after an accident and we would get a chance for elephant safari which is started recently from Malangi Lodge.We immediately started for Barodabari Beat office for booking.Beat officer Mr.Barman is a nice person,advised us to take 2nd trip which starts from 6:30.We booked that.At the time 2 of us talking with officer other friends of mine were busy taking photos sitting on officers new bike kept outside [Blush].Sorry Mr. Barman.Tapan took us to Torsa watch tower.It is just beside the Torsa river.Sunset here can a be a life time experience.Excellent view of blue transparent water of Torsa river, other side of the river is full with grass land and dense forest.We heard the sound of Peacocks and many unknown birds.Forest guards warned us from wild elephants and leopards so we left the place and came to jungle camp.I forget to tell you when we were taking our lunch a healthy country chicken was roaming around the dining place, suddenly i told the pantry guy can we have this in our dinner :):D ...he smiled and told OKEY..so immediately after coming back to jungle camp half of chicken was ready for us in the form of hot and spicy chicken kassa.We started our party on watch tower :Martini:Martini.Sitting on a watchtower,facing toward jungle,sounds of forest are all a never before experience.We were in the world where humans are not superior ,it is wild animal's kingdom.Suddenly Riktam told lets visit to jungle.This bill was immediately passed in our 4 persons parliament.Tapan took a search light and we started moving on the Jungle road.Tapan is very experienced guy,he kept the car's speed at 30-40km/hr.It was a life time experience,in a single day we experienced party on watch tower and now night safari in Jungle.We were keeping our eyes in the forest...It was pitch-dark outside.After some time we were amused to notice fireflies blinking all around us and forming some arbitrary pattern of flash lights with the complete black backdrop of darkness.Only car's headlight was the source of light which was guiding us.Tapan was driving the car keeping the search light in the right hand and he was putting it sometimes on the right side and sometimes on the left.Suddenly we saw 15-20 small bright lights on the road visible in head light,Tapan uttered BISON...we were speechless.The car started moving very fast toward the light and when we reached the 50 meter near to the spot,we saw a group of BISONs....The group fled in the forest seeing us,but one member in the group was confused by the head light and could not move.We saw this Bison from very close.I read in many books that jungle has its own rules.From the ancient times jungle god saves all his wild creatures from the most dangerous humans and natural calamities.We prayed to the god for our safety and wished to see some of his creatures, hope he has blessed us. We returned Jungle camp at 10:30PM, took our dinner and slept.

I have a bad habit to wake up early in the morning,specially sleeping in such a place is wasting of precious time.After having a cup of hot tea we started for Elephant Safari.Sunlight also dares to enter few parts of the forest so at morning 6AM jungle was quite dark.On the way Tapan suddenly stopped the car was trying to show us something.Once again Forest God was kind to us. A group of Bisons were inside the forest just beside us.We took lots of snap from the car's roof.[banana]. We reached Malangi lodge at 6:30AM. Mis Menoka was waiting for us. Menoka is a middle aged female elephant of Forest Department.So now tigers on elephant.:):D..It was a four persons sitting arrangement.After crossing Malangi river, Menoka started moving toward jungle Mahut shown us a wild boar.Slowly slowly Menoka was moving to the core area.Mahut was moving the tree bunches by his hands, which was coming on the way, as I was sitting in the second position and busy with the camera, was slapped twice by the brances:mad::mad:.I heard elephant is a wise animal and a lady elephant would be more.[Blush]. Menoka might be punished me for doing any wrong in past.:elee: When we moved toward Torsa river we have seen thousands of birds on the river beds.Bali Hans,Pankouri and Hattimatim are the known names for me.Suddenly on the right side in the grass land,we saw a deer with long horns was roaming.It gave us lots of time to take snaps.After the safari we returned to Jungle camp for breakfast.Tapan gave an idea to visit Torsa watch tower in day time.We had some different plan.We took our towels and went to torsa.It was a excellent river bath.:danc::danc:............. .. Chilled transparent water could not stop us.We spend there more than a hour.Tapan was shouting and trying to say something from the bank.He was actually saying Jungle safari has started from today.[banana][banana][banana].His friend called him in his mobile and informed him regarding this.We returned to Jungle camp,completed lunch(Same menu as last day) immediately and went to the forest office Chilapata.It was a gypsy with a driver and a mandatory forest guide.We started another thrilling mission.Jungle has different looks during morning,afternoon and night.We have experienced the beauty of morning and night, now it is time to experience afternoon.We told tapan to join with us.Tinku a young and energetic local guy was our guide.He knows the forest like his palm.He has a SLR camera,he showed us different pictures of Butterflies and Birds taken by him.We moved inside the forest, our first halt was "Nal Rajar Garh", it is a ruined fort of the Nal kings, built in the Gupta period.Very painful to see that such a historic place has no maintance and surely it will be completely demolished after few years.However we moved the core area of Chilapata called CC Line.It was a breathtaking experience.We were driving through a narrow road between the woods with trees like Sal and Segun on both sides and little by little the forest was growing dense. We were acclimatizing with the absolute silence of the forest punctuated at times by some bird voices and some rattling noises made by unknown animals and insects. This was quite a new experience for us who are more accustomed to constant city noises.We all were standing on the jeep and it was going in to a different world.Every bend there might be some new experience waiting for us.We reached a road where right side a big grass land with big bushes.Tinku(Guide) asked the driver to stop the jeep.We saw a deer(completely different from deer we have seen in the morning,it does not have horns) in the grass land.We took snaps.After going approx one kilometre we reached CC line watch tower.It was around 4:00PM,The Sun has started moving toward the other side of the world.We climbed on the watch tower.The next 30 minutes we have seen few memorable incedients.A rhino was hiding in the bush shown a glimpse, male peacock was trying to impress it's partner and displayed it's tail feather.:clap_1::clap_1:.I along with Tinku went to the furthest point of the tower to take snaps. The day was going to end,we left the beautiful place and headed toward Mendlabari.The forest guards on the watch tower informed us,they have seen a group of elephant ,which is heading toward Chilapata.We never lost any opportunity,so without wasting any time,we started moving toward Chilapata.It was 95% dark and we did not have any search light.We were very much excited listening to the forest guards words.I saw the body language of Tinku,Tapan and the driver was completely changed.We were moving very slowly and carefully without making any sound.After 15-20 minutes we crossed a small bridge.Suddenly we heard a huge sound of breaking dry tree branches very near...A group of 10-15 elephants were moving in the forest.We have seen them.I was trying to get down from the jeep to take some snaps but stopped by Tinku and Tapan.Tinku and Tapan both were scared,This is the first time we have seen them in this state.Tinku told the driver to take the jeep to the nearby Forest Depertment watch tower,it was very near, there we requested guards to accompany us(as suggested by Tinku).The guard called "MAMA" immediately joined with us taking his gun and search light.Now we are safe.Mama informed us,it is a group of 35-40 elephants. He put the search light in the deep forest,now we could see the group clearly.Mama suddenly started abusing a "Makhna" elephant in some different language.He was shouting and showing his gun toward that elephant.He was a funny man,we started laughing seeing his activity. He showed us "Dantal", "Makna"(male) and children.Mama told us few incidents where he had a close escape from "Makhna" elephants.We took few snaps in night vision mode of the camera.Now it is completely dark.We thanked mama and dropped him at his watch tower ,started for Jungle camp.This time we took mendlabari to chilapata jungle road.Again we all were sanding on the safari Jeep.Again Jungle God of Chilapata is in our favour.We saw a Sambar crossing the road.It is big deer with long horns.we saw it in jeep's head light and immediately it disappeared in the dense forest when we went near.We have fulfilled all our wishes for the day.Returned Jungle camp and had some hot tea.A bonfire with roasted chicken was the theme of our today's evening.The helpful staffs arranged everything like woods,chairs,a full marinated chicken.I have experience of attending more than 5-6 bonfires, So I shall not mind if anyone calls me a "Bonfire Specialist",I took the charge, upto 10PM it was a complete wild party with party animals. At 10:15 we asked Tapan to take us to Barodabari through the jungle.This time God was really angry :mad::mad: on us for disturbing his animals at sleeping hours so he had shown only a rabbit and a wild cock.We returned to our den and slept.

This is the last day in Chilapata.We woke up 5:40AM to see the Sunrise so started walking toward Torsa watch Tower,which was approximately 5 kilometer.We saw lots of known and unknown siberian birds.After Sometime Tapan came there.:D .We finished our breakfast, paid all dues.We left Chilapata at 10AM with a heavy heart.Chilapata gave us more than what we wanted.We shall miss the jungle,Torsa River,Tinku,Chilapata Jungle Camp very much..but we need to move toward the new destination,"Jayanti".

We reached Rajabhatkhoa at 11:30AM,got the forest department permit and entered the Buxa Tiger Reserve(BTR) Forest.The excellent road along with dense BTR forest both sides goes straight to Jayanti village.we reached Jayanti at 12:30PM.Jayanti is a small picture perfect village beside the Jayanti river bed. This is a very rare scenery of mountains,forest and white vast river bed.River Jayanti has a small flow this time of the year but during monsoon it becomes dangerous.BTR is different from Chilapata Jungle, here no car or human is allowed after 6PM to enter the forest.I already informed Mr.Partha of Rovers Inn, regarding our lunch and requested him to arrange our jungle safari.This property is just on the river bed with the 180 degree view.Mr.Padip Dey a forest department registered guide was waiting for us in Rovers Inn.Without wasting any time we took our bath and completed lunch.It was a tasty fish meal.Pradipda is a middle aged person,he is very professional and exactly opposite in character of Tinku(our guide in chilapata).However he informed us our car is allowed to go Chuniya watch tower today evening and the next day's plan is to go Pukhri,Chota/Bara Mahakal and if possible to Buxa Fort.We moved toward Chuniya watch tower.Me and Pradipda sat in the front seat with Tapan.It is a different forest from Chilapata,most rivers enter BTR from Bhutan. They carry huge amount of bed load. They obliterate beds of BTR rivers.So in between forest we could see the river bed.Tapan was driving very carefully as usual.After crossing the Jayanti river we entered core BTR forest.We asked a permission from Pradipda to climb on the roof but he told it is not allowed.We saw few peacocks on the trees, but for last two days it became a regular incident.So Dil mange moreeeee....:) I saw some thing moving in the left side of us,but it was very far.We already crossed the place I asked Tapan to take the car back.When we went back,we saw two mother/father elephants along with their child waking on the dry river bed.Before Pradipda could guess anything I,Riktam and Avishek climbed on the roof of the car to get better view.After the group vanished in the forest we started moving toward chuniya watch tower.Forest here is more dense than chilapata.I must also mention the different varieties of butterflies we witnessed around the watch tower. I have never seen so many at a time and of so many types as well. Chuniya watch tower has a excellent 360 degree view of the Jungle.We were waiting there to see some more wild life,it was 4:30 and slowly the place was becoming dark.Pradipda told us to leave but told to wait another 10-15 minutes.Pradipda spotted something coming toward us from the jungle,but it was not clearly visible.We zoomed our camera and took a snap,Pradipda told it is a barking deer.We left the chuniya and returned to jayanti.It was 6:30PM and completely dark.We sat in the tea stall in Jayanti and started chatting with local guys.They shared their experience wilh wild animals,specially elephants.The simple persons of the village were telling about their life struggle with elephants and rivers.We returned to Rovers Inn.Pradipda told us next days plan,first early in the morning we shall once again visit to Chuniya,then we shall go to Pukri then after finishing breakfast we shall go to Mahakal.As we had our train ticket in Saraighat Express(4:40PM from New Aliporeduar Station) we need to leave from Jayanti at 3PM.Parthada of Rovers Inn arranged our sitting on the first floor balcony,it is a awesome place with 180 degree view of River Bed.We started our party with Tapan.Tapan was telling his experience in chilapata with wild animal,forest,local politics etc.At 9PM we went on the River bed,sat beside the small stream of Jayanti....The sound of flowing water,wild unknown birds and animals were making the ambient perfect.We do not know how much time we spent there.We completed our dinner with chicken curry and slept.

Last day of our trip started at 5:30AM.Pradipda went to collect the forest entry pass.We were standing on the river bed to see the amazing sunrise on Jayanti river.The complete red coloured Sun was coming from the horizon and the reflection on the Jayanti river can be a easily your desktop background .We started toward chuniya.This time we saw the footprint of leopard on the road.It went along with the road last night or may be early in the morning.We followed the footprint,it went to forest after approx 500 metre.We saw peacock,wild cock and deer.We returned to Jayanti,had a cup of tea and started for Pukhri.On the way our friend Joydeep showed his skill of driving.Dyeing in this heaven could be a good idea but no one of us were ready to take the chance.So Joydeep was replaced by our trusted Tapan.Car can not go direct to the Pukhri,one needs to walk a 15-20 minutes stiff jungle trail.We took some soybean and muri from Jayanti as advised by Pradeepda.It is a big pond with green colored water situated in deep forest.Pradeepda threw some soybean in the pond and within a second hundreds of magur (Cat Fish) appeared on the water.We also gave muri and soybean to the fishes.Pradeepda informed us that this is not a normal pond.This pond is situated on the mountain top but never dried during summer.he also informed that no one has ever tried to catch the fishes and the villagers consider it as a holy place. We returned to the Rovers Inn for Breakfast.It was around 10AM.The check out time in Rovers Inn is 10am, so we asked Parthada to keep our luggage in a safe place so that we can collect it while returning from Mahakal.Parthada surprised us by saying that he would arrange lunch for us and we need not to leave the room till we start for station.It was a uncommon gesture .We were totally amazed by his courtesy.He also suggested to take bath in the river.As I told you earlier we were determined not to loose any opportunity,we took towels.In this journey the car has to cross the Jayanti river 5-6 times.Small cars are not suggested.Pradeepda was giving the road direction and Tapan was following.This path is actually river bed and stone carring trucks made a road like sign.Though road,crossing the river,hitting by boulders with the forest and hill background could be a perfect advertisement of any SUV in India.We crossed the tough road and a reached a place from where we need to start walking.Joydeep was not ready to climb so he immediately started taking bath in the river without wasting time.Pradeepda,Riktam,Avishek and me stated walking toward Mahakal.Pradeepda told that right side of the river is in the Bhutan.After crossing the knee deep chilled water we reached in foreign.After walking 15 minutes we reached chota Mahakal.It is nice stalagmite work done by Mother nature.I saw it earlier in Bora Caves at Andra Pradesh and in a cave at Meghalaya.It is one of the “Sati Piths” (i.e. according to Hindu mythology, a place where one part of the body of Uma fell when her husband, Lord Shiva, danced in rage over her dead body).We prayed for everyone to the almighty Mahakal.A small waterfall is just 5 minutes walking distance from this place.We reached there and Pradeepda told us that during Shiv Ratri villagers come here to take bath.The day was not any special but we made it special by taking a bath in the small water fall.The stones were very slippery.We came down on the river bed,crossed the river and reached to the India after a bath in Bhutan.Joydeep was still sitting in the flowing Jayanti.We took another round of bath.In the mean time Tapan cleaned the bolero with the river water.It was already 1pm so we left the beautiful place.Lunch was ready for us in Rovers Inn.We came back using the same road.We completed our lunch with chicken curry and rice.Our time at Jayanti had come to the end. After lunch, we packed our bags....We left Jayanti at 2:30 after taking a 30 minutes rest, reached New Aliporeduar Station at 4pm.Paid all the dues of Tapan,we knew a small amount of money is not enough for the company we got from Tapan.He also became very emotional...The train was running in time and it came 5 minutes after its schedule time.We boarded the train.We got pure recharge for coming few days....

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