Everest Base Camp, Kalla Pathar (EBC) trek report:
By P S Khetwal
It was long due to do this trek i.e. Everest base camp and finally I could plan for it. On 22nd March 2013 I went to Delhi by Garib rath from Ranchi and on 23th my flight reached Kathmandu at 11pm. As soon as I told that I have come for trekking the taxi driver and the hotel staffs were eager to take me to their hotel as trekking is a popular business in Nepal. Finally I stayed in hotel Encounter in Thamel area. Thamel is a popular area in Nepal for trekkers particularly for Western people. It’s full of trekking shops & hotels from cheap to very high standard. The trekking gear made in China are economical though the quality may not be as good as the one manufactured in other developed countries however they are all available out here but are quite costly. Any way one can hire or purchase any type of outdoor gear in Thamel. Some addresses are attached in Ist picture.
24th March, Mr Raj Pandey from black diamond expedition whose office is also in the same hotel I stayed in (hotel Encounter, Thamel), arranged my tickets to & fro Kathmandu Lukla and also TIMS card. (I could have got TIMS card myself but flight ticket of Lukla, only they can arrange in short notice).
One can get the tims card easily but getting flight ticket to lukla is difficult in short notice, so I had to seek an agencies help. They also arranged guide/ porter for me.
My original plan was to start the trek from Lukla (alt. 2840 m) but due to bad weather flight (Lukla Kathmandu) got cancelled for 2 consecutive days . Without wasting any more days I changed my route staring from Jiri (alt. 1900 m) where we can go by road. This route is the original EBC trek. Although it takes another one week extra time with a total trek length of approx. 175 kms instead of 100kms from Lukla. Jiri to Basecamp (alt. 5350m) and back to Lukla is the route for EBC Solukhunbu marathon that is
Kathmandu as seen from Temple top
Pasupatinath temple
organized every year. For this, the route is well marked with red circles on the way so no chance of getting lost even if you are all alone.
Now I had 14 days time for a 20 days trek route, so to complete the trek I will have to cover extra miles every day. So I decided to do the trek alone without associating with any group. The manager of Black Diamond expedition agency Mr. Pandey who arranged my original trip plan & tickets, was repeatedly saying that now you will have to return from half way if you want to catch the return flight on 8th march from lukla (flight charges 102 Dollars for Indians & Nepalies, for others 140 Dollars). My return flight to India was on 9th march so extension was out of question. But I was determined to make it to the end i.e. till EBC & praying God to help me to keep my health OK.
Day 1 (26th March 2013)
On 26th march early morning me and my guide boarded a bus from Kathmandu, unfortunately it did not go upto Jiri because that day was Holi in Nepal. Stranded halfway at Charikot (alt 6500 ft.) we could not get any bus for Jiri from here till 2pm. We spend some time here to view Gaurishankar Himalayas and locals enjoyed applying Gulal on us, though I was more worried to reach to Jiri as time was passing.
References
EBC Solukhumbu marathan route marking
Gaurishankar as seen from Charikot
Gaurishankar as seen from Charikot close
Finally I decided to hire a taxi for 5000 NC for Jiri. The journey was too scenic; mood changed to joyful and reached Jiri at 4pm without any further problem. It is a small town and is popularly known as mini Switzerland of Nepal, of course it is very beautiful, pleasant, neat and clean.
Immediately after having a cup of tea we started our trek for whatever time was left before it is dark, wanted to spend at least a day in Jiri but I was already short of time. We asked the locals whether it is possible to reach Shivalaya before it is dark. It was a mixed response; we started our first day’s trek in a tired mood. It was a steep climb amidst dense & green forest from the very beginning and we reached at the top in 2 hrs, a place called Mali (2200m). Afterwards was a steep downhill , not surprisingly my knee / ankle started giving problem. With some disappointment in my mind (thinking that if day one is like this I may not be able to go too far before I call it the end of my trek) though I kept repeated saying to my guide Pratap that we will complete the trek till the end (I was not confident). Last 1 hr we had to move down in dark with the help of mobile (I tried to find my tourch in my backpack but could not get it when it was needed the most). Finally we reached Shivalaya (alt. 1770 m) at 7.30pm. It’s a beautiful green valley that we could only realize in the morning. Stayed in a small tea house, pleasant night & nice food total charges I paid was around 700 NC including dinner. (Dal Bhat) & breakfast (Thupka). Camera charging free.
Jiri 1900m Mini Switzerland Nepal
Volleyball ground in nature’s lap
Day 2 (27th March 2013)
Started day 2 by paying 200 NC for Jiri entrance fee (2000 NC for 0ther counties) at 6.30am. Soon after the start it was a steep climb and it continued till Deorali pass but the scenic beauty all along was more than enough to forget the tiredness. The forest was full of colorful Rhododendrons.
After taking enough rest intermittently & lots of water, reached at the top at 11 am. The route was perfectly ok and at every crossing / diversion there was circular marking in red color either on a visible tree or on the stones. Water is available on the route. If you do not want to drink natural water, mineral water is also available in almost every village on the way.
After taking tea & biscuits at the top we started our long downhill journey to Bhandar & Kenja. Bhandar was looking beautiful from the top. We had our lunch somewhere between Bhandar & Kenja in a small village and also got some rest of half an hour. From Bhandar to Kenja I was swetting too much due to lower altitudes though it was a pleasant climate. Our target for today was Sete which is roughly 5 kms of steep climb from Kenja. I was tired enough in reaching Kenja itself, my guide Pratap also saying
Kenja village at 1700m
Deorali pass
Rhododendrons in full blossom on a steep hike to Deorali pass (2705m) from Shivalaya
“Ab charai karana hai to kuch peena paraiga. We both took 2 cold drinks (140 NC for each 500ml) and slowly but steadily started our last uphill push. I was carrying around 10 kg of weight but now it was too much for me. Any way there was no option, my guide was already carrying more than 15 kg. After every 300 meter we use to take rest & had a sip of cold drinks. Now it was dark however we continued in torch light.
After 2 hrs in dark we reached a village hoping that it is Sete. After asking from a house we were surprised to know that we have left Sete almost a kilometer down in the darkness. There were only 2-3 houses in Sete that too very dimly lit so we ignored the village. Anyway now no question of going down, I was only half conscious after continuously going up down, up down ……from 6.30am till 8 pm, now it was cold also at around 2700m level. I asked Pratap to enquire if someone is ready to give shelter tonight (the village is meant for trekkers also but because I was a lone trekker with one guide, they were reluctant to accommodate, they want bigger groups for better earnings from one time food preparation). Any way after seeing my pitiable condition at least some was kind enough for my stay & food. Thank god, I got a tasty dinner & soon went asleep. This village name I do not remember but it was just before Dukchu (2800m) & after Sete.
Day 3 (28th March 2013)
It was one of the best day for scenic beauty though I new its going to be tough as heard from many that crossing Lamjura pass at 3640m is the toughest day in the entire trek. I was ready for the challenge (no other choice) and started off slowly steep up from the very first step. It was a bit cold but with nice views & colorful flowers all along. We first reached Dakchu village then Goyom and Lamjura village. Hardly any trekker on the route today.
sunset just above Deorali pass ( seen from somewhere near Sete)
Sete is behind the hill in the centre (Kenja seen at the
As I reached Lamjura village, pass should not be far off and we soon reached the top surprisingly with ease, may be because last evening we covered half of the steep climb by mistake. It was very windy and cold at the pass so I did not stop much & started getting down. For next 1 hrs with continuously knee testing, we reached at beautiful flat land where we had horlicks for the last push before we reach to Junbesi for our meal. Now onwards it was gentle walk with little bit ups & down so really enjoyed this part till we reached funtastic Junbesi at around 2pm. Trully I have never seen villages with so
Approaching Lamjura
Amidst colors
Dakchu 2800m along a continuous ridge
Goyom in continuation 3070m
Lamjura La 3640m pass
Facing snow first time near Lamjura La
much natural beauaties from Junbesi till Taksindu in my lifetime, Kashmir included. Arrived in Junbesi at 1.45 pm hoping that I would get a view of the sacred Mount Numbur 6950 m. - "The Protector of Solu". Yes I got only a glimpse of it & soon it disappeared in clouds.
We were hungry & tired so asked in a lodge to prepare food. Till that time I roamed around the village, its monastery & spend some time near the small riverbank without touching the water. Next time I will plan to stay here for many days. Today I will have to move ahead as I knew, I have still miles to go & miles to go before I sleep. After a nice meal we started for our last phase. A sign just outside the village points to Namche which means going uphill and Phaplu which means going downhill. As I gradually came higher up I soon had magnificent views back on the Lamjura Pass ridge and the valley I had walked yesterday all the way down to Junbesi . The first view of Mount Everest comes into sight, reached Phurtang at around sunset time. This is a really good place to take a break and admire the views at 2900m & have nice views in the morning. Getting rooms was not a problem as there was no one else like me.
Beautiful Junbesi the best village of my lifetime
At Everest view point I got this
Lamjura at the back
Level pathways were rare but sometime I got it as surprize
Day 4 (29th March 2013)
The best day of my entire trek. Real beauty of remote villages of Nepal that I got to see today is awesome. Just too good to describe, nothing better I could expect. The route was flat & wide, natural beauties only the following pictures can describe. After the river crossing it was a total uphill till Taksindu La .
Nature colors on way to Taksindula La pass from Phurteng
Ringmu was another village where I would like to live forever. Mt. numbur was clearly visible from there. The whole area was green, colorful & so pleasant. After climbing to Taksindu La pass there was endless downhill via vil Nuntala 2200m and then Dudh Koshi river at 1510m. So from 3071m level to 1500m level in a distance of around 7 kms. It was a bit hot there after that again climbing up to Khari Khola. I had another 2 hrs left before dark, so wanted to reach the next village today itself if I make that last &
Taksindu La pass
Mt. Numbur at back
Taksindu vil very charming indeed
final push of the day, I have become habitual of. Pratap was very kind to go ahead. Reached Bupsa (2360m) at 6 pm ( we started the day at 6.30 am).
Day 5 (30th March 2013)
It was not a hectic day as we have to go upto Phakding only, after an initial uphill for 2 hrs we reached at the Karila pass. Afterwards was a gentle walk. But suddenly the weather changed & it started to rain, however we continued till we reached our destination for today with completely soaked condition.
Looking down at Karila pass (2840m) the 5th one in 5 days
suspension bridge crossing the Dudh Kosi 1510 m
Pratap taking a much needed rest
At chaurikharka, the route from Lukla meets with the route from Jiri. It was raining heavily at that time. in the morning heading for Namche, I knew that the peaceful and quiet trails I had walked up until now from Jiri would be a different story from now on. With more than 50 flights coming in and out of Lukla every day in peak season, packed with people with pretty much the same mountain ambitions, the traffic on the trail has to get more congested. Less space and more noise was the melody from now on . . ..
First view of Lukla as seen near Karila pass
Seeing up Front from Karila pass gives this view
Waiting for the yak to come first
Day 6 (31st March 2013)
Last day of greenery & beginning of high altitude. Till yesterday we were walking almost alone but now it was a highway of trekkers from all over the word. The suspension bridges were over loaded now.
Dust bin divided for glass, plastics & others
One group returning & another going to EBC
Upto Mongo it was a level walk with greenery everwhere but as we crossed the last bridge 2 kms before Namche, it started a steep climb upto namche. Next day was to go to Thame valley which is perhaps most famous for being the childhood home of Tenzing Norgay. One route goes to Thame from Namche and another towards EBC. But lack of time forced me to cancel going to Thame.
Day 7 (1st April 2013)
First light snowfall in Namche
Phakding after a long shower
Today the target was Tengboche and I stated early morning with fresh snow around Namche top. Soon after passing by I could view the tip of Efar end. Tengboche was fully covered with fresh snow in the morning when I first had a glimpse of it . In the beginning it was a level walk & I enjoyed the views on the way. But after crossing the bottom bridge it was a steep climb upto Tengboche. On the way I could view closely to Many peaks like Photse, Lotse, Kantega, Thamsarku etc.
Day 8 (2nd April 2013)
(From Namche top) at background himalaya Kongde Ri
Tip of Everest at back left & lotse at right
Ama Dablum peak
Target: Tengboche (3800m) to Dengboche (4300m)
It was an easy walk today as we are habitual of long and steep climbing, though there was no steep till the end. It was almost along the Dudh Koshi with fantastic views. Perhaps the easiest day, after some time getting closure views of Ama Dablam, Kantega & Thamserku we reached Dengboche. It was around noon & I was ready upto 7 pm. So after taking tea and keeping my backpack in the tea house, we moved towards iland peak & the beautiful valley of Chukhung. I had a plan to go upto the lake but the weather deteriorated & had to return back .on the way Pratap did some nice stunts infront of Ama Dablam & I also tried the same forgetting my age ( Pratap is 23 years & I am you all know), & I got some sprain in my thighs. So I thought better to go & take rest for tomorrow.
Day 9 (3rd April 2013)
Today was also a level walk except above Dughla for 2 kms. So I enjoyed the day and took lots of photographs on the way. However due to very low temperature (river Dudh Koshi was frozen in the later half) I could not take enough water that resulted dehydration & I did not take any food till next full day. Pratap was also having headache now as we did not take any rest for acclimatization neither in Namche nor in Dengboche for short of time. We reached Dengboche well in time at around 1pm. So we had some rest snacks and then headed for Pyramid peak base area for better acclimatization i.e. go high sleep low. On the way a Hungarian lady was lost from her group & was heading towards EBC instead of the Pyramid peak base area that she was supposed to go. So we helped her to get back to the right trek & she was so thankful to us. Now we came back & I slept after taking Norflox .
The strong porter the hybrid of Yak & cows called Zo for high alt
Photse peak & vil
Iland peak
4th April (10th day of the trek)
We started today early morning at 4.30am from Labuche with my finger getting numb even after using 2 woolen gloves with a temperature may be less than 15 degree Celsius below freezing i.e too when I was not eating anything due to stomach upset . I did not even dare to take a snap before the sun got in the picture after ~3 hrs.
The peaks at back are Ama Dablam, kantega & Thamserku
The peaks at back is Pumori
Dancing with joy- Target fulflled
Mt. Everest in the middle
Many people tend to struggle with their sleep and appetite at altitudes like in Lobuche making their days more strenuous and demanding. I personally felt great all the way except that my stomach got upset on the final day, may be due to too little water intake the previous day. Actually the water for drinking was too cold and it was cold enough that I did not sweat, so less water so dehydration/ hill diarrhea. One must take water continuously, whether you are thirsty or not at higher altitudes. I must not dare to describe the beauty of the day, let the pictures speak silently. It was a great day for my life; coincidently it happened to be my birthday. The Everest base camp is famous as all the summiteers for Everest start their trek from here. They camp here for weeks to acclimatize. Next they camp at ABC i.e advance base camp then camp1,2, 3… etc. before the final step at the top.
The tiny tents (from kala pather)at EBC of Everest Summiteers
The Everest 8848m top of the world
At Kalla Pathar, bitterly cold and windy but with marvelous views almost within touching distance of the powerful Pumori -"Everest's Daughter" and with the south face of Mount Everest-"Goddess of the Sky" towering above everyone else looking down at Changtse 7583 m on the left , Lhotse 8517 at the back and Nuptse 7861m on the right. Looking south the Khumbu glacier sneaks its way down-valley with beautiful panorama views of Ama Dablam, Kangtega and Thamserku and many more towering above the Khumbu Glacier/Icefall, this really was a moment of my life. O no, I forgot, today is my birthday and I thanked god to make it a memorable day of my life. I also forgot to tell that today I was suffering from hill diarrhea i.e a total stomach upset, I never felt so much helpless in my life when I had to abandon the last 20-25m of climb with distance of less than a mere 100 meter of the Kalla Pathar top. Though I did not miss anything, I got all the views it is famous for, still I missed my target of the whole trip. But I am more than happy to make it to the top (almost) 5525m probably, instead of 5545m along with EBC, while once I was scared of my ankle & knee on the very first day of the trip.
Day 11 return: The longest day, Labuche to Namche Bazar (5th April 2013)
Lucky to spot Monal (probably) on our way
With my stomack upset since last day I had to continue downward journey without break as I had no extra time. I had no Debit/Credit card working in Nepal, whatever cash I am having , everything has to be done with that before I reach India. One can see at the back of their Card that it is valid all over the world except Bhutan and Nepal. But the Indian domestic SBI debit card without 0 in the card number is working in Nepal. So Take enough cash , average daily expenditure at trekking route is ~ 2000NC. If you are planning in 3-4 heads for EBC then take 50K Indian rupees each (each).
Day 12 : The last of my trekking days (6th April 2013)
Today I knew that its now done because today was downhill and the route well familiar, I was enjoying every moment of the trek. My stomach by now was OK. So had beer and all sorts of drinks hot or cold on the way, as I knew I am completing the 20 days trek within 12 days (1 day in advance than I planned for i.e. 7th April).
Forest before Tangboche
I had my last day of walking to the exit point of Lukla. It was a bit sad to leave this gorgeous area behind, which had brought me such an abundance of great scenery and a look into the great sherpa culture. Their hospitality and kindness and the great atmosphere it is just to be on the trails made this trek so nice. I will be back sooner or later, perhaps for Annapurna.
I lost 5 kgs of my wt. (from 60 to 55) after this trek, generally I loose 2-2.5 kgs in one trek but this was long (~ 190 kms). Jiri to Kalla Pathar & back to Lukla is 175 kms. 15 kms I did extra as evening acclimatization at Dengboche to Chukhung & Labuche to Pyramid.
With regards
P S Khetwal
The tiny aircraft landing at Lukla, will take me to Kathmandu
As seen from lukla kathmandu flight
Ending at lukla