[2]014 has most certainly been the year of London’s food truck and pop-up revolution. Even the customary December cold-snap has not put off these gastronomic nomads who have taken to hibernating in the upstairs rooms of Eat End pubs or South London supper clubs. Often with limited menus and serving only the very best in seasonal, local produce London’s truckers and pop-uppers are taking up their winter residencies and are awaiting your patronage. In no particular order, here’s a list of London’s hottest temporary dining spots…
Kerb clubhouse
The team behind London’s most established street food collective, KERB, are launching The Clubhouse in Hackney Wick. Their biggest project to date will see the collective set up in an old mirror factory on Fish Island, providing a permanent home for traders in the winter months. The space is big enough to not get crowded (the location will also help with that) but small enough that you don’t get too chilly. There’s also a good amount of seating spread all over the venue. As well as delicious food from Kimchinary, BBQ Lab and Crabbieshack expect to find Bleecker Burgers mini diner space where they will be serving a special Clubhouse exclusive and Fundi Pizza’s wood-fired pizza bar. We highly recommend you try Kothu Kothu – the Sri Lankan street food trader whose signature Kothu Roti (choose from chicken, mutton or vegetables) is not only one of the best value for money dishes on offer but deliciously unique. As well as a cracking selection of London beers (cask and keg) and a good selection of wine the cocktail hut provides a small but well-crafted menu. Our favourite had to be the Sheznut Sour – a mix of Amontillado sherry, salted hazelnut syrup and lemon. Finish the meal with decadent treats from You Doughnut.
Where: 105 Monier Road, Hackney Wick, E3 2PS
When: From 5th December – Friday and Saturday 5-11pm
The Bowler at The Horse and Groom
The Horse and Groom is one of Curtain Road’s oldest residents and has recently undergone something of a make-under as well as welcoming in ordinarily wandering meatball manufacturer The Bowler. The bric-a-brac and clutter has been stripped away to reveal authentic original wooden features whilst The Bowler mans the stoves in the open-plan upstairs kitchen. Signature meatballs include rosemary, garlic and lamb; beef and chorizo balls whilst weekly specials will include the innovatively named and Scandinavian influenced “Bjorn Balls.” Everything comes with options; there are subs, gourmet meatball boxes served with rice, homemade coleslaw and crispy fried onions as well as rosemary salted fries available as a side.
Over the course of The Bowler’s tenure he is also rumoured to be handing over the reigns and giving his balls a break for one-off performances from fellow truck traders including Anna Mae’s Mac ‘n’ Cheese and Luardo’s Mexican Spit ‘n’ Roast. There will also be an on-site Street Food Pantry that will act as East London’s finest pop-up emporium selling condiments and dry goods that are normally only available on the road. Look out for The Ribman & Priaire Fire BBQ sauces and the very best offerings from Popcorn Kitchen.
Where: The Horse and Groom, 28 Curtain Road, Shoreditch
When: Monday – Saturday 12pm-3pm, 6pm-10pm
BOCAFACE SUPPER CLUB @ BLACK VANILLA
Spanish food is having a pretty serious moment in the capital right now and BOCAFACE’s Andres Flatt is one of its most skilled proponents. Across a sumptious five-course tasting menu Andres shares his family favourite recipes and adds a modern twist in the process. Locally sourced ingredients are at the core of his cooking as is a genuine passion for Spanish cusine. In a fantastic setting at Black Vanilla in Greenwich and a menu featuring scallops with homemade Catalonian butifarra sausage and chicken and serrano croquettes, this is one of this winter’s most exciting residencies.
Where: Black Vanilla, 5 College Approach, Greenwich
When: Thursdays and Fridays until 19th December, 6.30pm - 00.00am
Som Saa
Not content with roasting the capital’s finest single origin beans, coffee aficionados Climpson and Sons have afforded a little space at their London Fields Roastery to Andy Oliver and Tom George who will be enlightening locals and visitors alike with unfamiliar dishes from the Northern and North-Eastern provinces of Thailand. A wide range of dishes is available featuring everything form fiery bar snacks to large sharing dishes, all accompanied by a selection of Asian influenced cocktails. Keep you eye out for classic Thai brunch dishes such as Chinese doughnuts with rice porridge with crispy pork and make sure you save a little room for salted palm sugar ice cream and sesame fried banana. Naturally Climpson and Son have taken it upon themselves to develop a special Thai coffee in conjunction with their new stablemates.
Where: Climpson & Sons Coffee Roastery, Arch 374, Helmsley Place, London
When: Thursday & Friday 6-11; Saturday Brunch 11-4, Dinner 6-11; Sunday Brunch 11-4, Dinner 6-10
Nattura by Kitchen Theory
You’d have to have been living in a bunker to have missed Europe being overtaken by a steady and long-overdue obsession with Nordic cuisine. As Copehagen’s Noma steadfastly holds on to its place amongst the world’s finest restaurants and as Scandinavian furniture, fashion, pop music and even politics continues to be synonymous with cool it is about time that Nordic cuisine took its rightful place in London’s thriving food scene. Collaborative gastronomic project Kitchen Theory, founded by Jozef Yousef, an alumnus of both Heston Blumenthals The Fat Duck and The Dorchester Hotel has done the honours and introduced its latest pop-up sensation, Nattura. Michelin-trainer chefs create a series of multi-sensory events taken a small and fortunate audience through a challenging and brilliant culinary journey through seasonal dishes that relate to the landscapes, nature and traditions of Scandinavia.
Where: Kitchen Theory, Maida Hill Place, 4 Fernhead Road, London
When: Various dates, 1.30pm (weekends only) and 7.30pm
Dram and Smoke
It may seem like a long time ago that Scotland narrowly opted to remain part of the UK. Despite 400 years of neighbourliness there are few south of the border who have a proper appreciation of the delights of Scottish cuisine. Scottish Pop-up Dram & Smoke, though has nobly stepped into the breach to offer its punters generous helpings of ‘scran, bevvy and general flumgummerie.’ In an old tannery warehouse near London Bridge, ticketholders are invited to kick start their evening with a cocktail and then enjoy a five course meal of Scottish dishes at communal tables. Smoked bacon and blue cheese porridge and venison wellington are the leading lights as previously unaware Londoners very quickly discover what delights they’ve been missing.
Where: 2-3 Black Swan Yard, London
When: Wednesday – Saturday, 7.30pm
Yeah Burger at The Star by Hackney Downs
“No bullshit, just great burgers’ Yeah Burger’s uncompromising slogan may well be a gentle dig at the snootier members of London’s crowded hamburger scene. Then again it could just be a perfectly apt description of their burgers, which are great and largely free of ostentatious accoutrements. Somewhere on their apprenticeships at Lucky Chip and Death by Burrito, co-founders Adam Newman and Scott Hopkins learned that you really don’t need to fuck with the real thing. With a dash of their own delicious and mysterious Yeah sauce the duo are serving up top-notch burgers and hotdogs and well-appointed side-dishes to the eager crowds of Hackney. They might’ve stretched the no-bullshit rule when they fried their chicken in buttermilk and crunchy nut, but we’ll let them off because it damn well works. Yeah!
Where: The Star by Hackney Downs, 35 Queensdown Road
When: Monday – Saturday until 20th December, 6-10pm
Social Meat Club at The Sun and 13 Cantons
Social Meat Club may sound like a wretched indie band but it really isn’t. It’s actually the place to be for the finest classic British cooking with a Scandinavian twist at Soho’s perennial pop-up host The Sun and 13 Cantons. Naturally the focus is on the meat as chef Matt young grills, cures and smokes his way to success across a menu of sharing plates intended for consumption with a good few bottles of the bar’s craft beers. The hay-smoked wood pigeon has ruffled a few feathers on food blogs and the French fries with nori (seaweed) seasoning should have been invented years ago. This has to be one of the best hideouts from the crowds of Carnaby and the rabbles of Regent Street.
Where: 21 Great Pulteney Street, London
When: Weekdays Lunch and Dinner, Saturdays Dinner Only until 20th December. Lunch: 12pm – 3pm, Dinner: 6pm – 10pm
ForzaWin(ter)
ForzaWin originated as a simple but effective pizza pop-up in summer 2012. After a successful run in its Peckham hotspot the team stuck around and became ForzaWin(ter), this time offering a fine Italian fondue for cool cats to share under heatlamps on a rooftop. This year the exponential growth continues apace with the return of ForzaWin(ter) offering not just the fondue but also throwing a fine five-course meal into the bargain. Italian classic prepared with the freshest British ingredients include porcini arancini, polpette, radicchio, squashes, hams and all meals are rounded off with customary gelato from London’s finest purveyor of frozen Italian delights, Gelupo. Who know’ll what the Forza guys will add to their repertoire next year…
Where: Forza Win, Unit 4.1, 133 Copeland Road, London
When: Thursday-Saturday until 20th December
Salt Chuck’s Loaves and Fishes
Blink and you miss it but this three-day pop-up in Clapton is one to catch if you can. Housed in an old tram depot (there were once trams in Clapton?!) guests will be treated to an innovative five-course menu and homemade bread and pickles to kick things off. Rarified and creative dishes will take centre stage including juniper cured sea trout and rosemary smoked clam dashi. Move fast because the tickets are in short supply for such a brief appearance from the Salt Chuck crew. Also, great biblical shout out in the name in the run up to JC’s birthday celebrations this month.
Where: The Depot Studios, 38 Upper Clapton Road, London
When: 11th – 13th December, 7-10pm
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