Recently we’ve featured a few new openings that capitalise on old ideas – such as Hill and Szrok which took inspiration from 17th century cookshops or The Cat and Mutton which looked to its historical past in the latest, successful relaunch. This week a new restaurant, on the sleepy divide between Hackney and Islington, continues that trend.
Primeur perfectly demonstrates an interplay between old and new. The name itself literally means ‘newness’ in French and ‘en Primeur’ is a term that refers to young wine released before its vintage. Jérémie Cometto-Lingenheim and David Gingell – the experienced team behind the venture – cite local French grocery shops of the same name as their specific inspiration. Despite often humble circumstances they are places defined by community and quality produce – a destination to meet and eat with your neighbours.
London’s Primeur embodies this community spirit and aims to be a truly ‘local’ restaurant. Away from bustling Stoke Newington High Street, Church Street and Newington Green, the team opted to take over an old garage on Petherton Road. Originally a green grocer in the 1900s it was turned into a garage in the 1930s, and the sign above the door still reads ‘Barnes Motors’. The floor to ceiling doors that front the place have the option of opening up perhaps originally wide enough for a few cars to fit through but now ideal for sunny days. The high-ceilinged, white-walled space houses communal dining tables (if you reserve your place is marked out with black chalk) seating 40 guests upstairs with a private dining space downstairs seating a further 14. They don’t take bookings unless you walk by in person and the menu changes daily depending on season and what their suppliers have on offer. They even have ties with local allotment growers.
The humble, honest vibe of the place translates to the food. Chef David Gingell has previously worked at Galvin Brothers, Wright Brothers (where he met Jérémie) and most recently as executive chef of the Bistrotheque Group. At Primeur he has taken this experience and channelled it into crafting simple, honest food. With French, British and even Italian elements, the key thing about Primeur is its ingredients and letting them speak for themselves. Examples include asparagus, peas and soft pecorino on toast or rump steak, snails and garlic. On the weekend they also serve brunch, which includes options such as smoked haddock and crab omelette or ricotta pancakes, bacon, maple syrup – all welcome departures from the glut of eggs Benedict and full Englishes.
Another key element of Primeur is their wine cellar, containing around 100 wines from small producers worldwide who all share the same low intervention focus and care for the grapes they produce. This is Jérémie’s domain. A seasoned member of the London restaurant community Frenchman Jérémie has worked with everyone from Mark Hix to Jackson and Frank Boxer and recently the team at Rita’s. Every day he will select 8-10 wines from the cellar to compliment David’s menu, allowing customers to try unusual options, all of which will be available served by the glass.
The area in which Primeur resides is populated by families, young professionals and more than a few discerning foodies. The close proximity to Dalston and Stoke Newington High Street should see even more guests make the short trek in search of an oasis of calm and community. Places like Primeur make us feel part of something; it’s a venue we can all root for and even feel a little smug that our neighbourhood has a ‘best kept secret’. As long as it doesn’t become too difficult to get a table we have no doubt that the old ideas that fuel Primeur’s ethos will prove to make it a very modern success.
Primeur, 116 Petherton Road, London, N5 2RT
Find out more about Primeur on their website.
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