I enjoy this youtuber, and he is australian.
https://www.youtube.com/user/bryaneasy/videos
He's done a lot of system build and overclock videos in the past year. I've used his channel for a lot of info, and you may find some of them helpful.
My favorite website for new system build info is NeoGaf's "I Need a New PC" thread. They update it several times a year (always moving to a new thread), so this link won't stay current all that long, but they usually put a link to the new guide at the top of the page.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=944920
It sounds to me like your tastes are hovering around the "best value" list on that page, but your budget is closer to the "good" list.
I use PC Part Picker when I'm mixing and matching PC parts. I think you'll find that website really useful too.
http://au.pcpartpicker.com/
The only caveat that I have is that while I use that website for organization, I rarely order from the suggested websites. Rather, I generally order from a single store, because it makes things easier if I need to do returns. Generally I go with the store that has the best return policy and has good customer service, and I will gladly pay a few extra dollars for this.
Even in Australia, one piece of advice I have for shopping is to look at Amazon.com and Amazon.co.uk. You can very often find the same parts at a better price, even after shipping and conversion. When I was living in NZ, I often purchased PC parts from Amazon, and would save 10-30% off.
The only part I might stay away from when ordering overseas is the motherboard. I've had some issues in the past with bad motherboards, and I find they are the most likely to go out. You may want to get that locally rather than going overseas, but that's just my personal luck and taste. YMMV.
I've built 3 PCs in the past year. Here's a picture of the 2nd one I built:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/ ... b133de8110
Although it is open and not enclosed in the slightest, I can't hear anything when its turned on. And that is with two AMD cards in crossfire. This is largely because the quality of fans have greatly improved over the past few years. I say this because unless you play in a perfectly silent, enclosed environment, I don't think you need to worry too much about getting a "silent" case. In general, go for looks and ease of use.
Personally I'm a huge fan of Corsair cases and products lately.
The case in the picture is a Carbide 300R Windowed:
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/carbide-se ... aming-case
There's a "fancier" case by them in the Obsidian range:
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/obsidian-s ... er-pc-case
I actually prefer the 300R because it is more "see through", and I like putting lights and things in my cases and looking at the "guts" of the PC. I also like the front panel on the 300R, and also it's a smaller footprint while still fitting an full ATX (it's actually gone one of the smallest footprints on the market right now for an ATX mid tower).
I liked the case so much I built two machines with it. Have another one with purple lights, which is the computer I'm gaming from right now.
I feel like I should tell you about 120hz monitors, if you aren't yet aware of them.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread. ... st90727719
http://www.blurbusters.com/faq/120hz-monitors/
I made the switch to 120hz last year around January, and quite frankly I will never go back to 60hz refresh rates. I now consider the monitor I play on one of the most important pieces of hardware in the PC, and generally speaking I spend about a 1:1 ratio of dollars to GPU/Monitor.
In addition to that, make sure you have a high DPI gaming mouse (at least 3000dpi). Basically don't get something cheap. and if you have any extra money get a mechanical keyboard. I'm partial to brown or red switches.
These higher quality peripherals (monitor, mouse, keyboard) were one of the best investments I ever made for gaming.
Some comments on your parts.
Case: Thermaltake Black Commander MS-II Mid Tower Chassis @ $65
I feel like this is going too cheap, and I wouldn't be happy with this case personally, especially since you are planning to overclock and you will want good airflow. It only has one usb 3.0 in the front too. I would go more towards the $100 range here.
no MB selected
Just an oversight? The lowest model Z97 will do here, unless you are looking for certain features. I've gone with Asus MBs for many years, mostly because I am familiar with their BIOS screens and I like the look of their products.
CPU: Intel i5-4960K 3.5GHz Quadcore @ $324
Yeah, hyperthreading isn't really supported yet in most games. An i7 would "futureproof" your machine, but it isn't necessary now, and you wouldn't see any real benefit from it in wow.
RAM: Corsair 8GB 1600MHz DDR3 Vengeance Red Pro @ $115
I would either bump the speed on the RAM or get cheaper RAM here.
Heatsink: Cooler Master TX3 Evo CPU Cooler @ $24
Um.. no, don't get this for overclocking. The fan is too small and is little better than stock. Try to find a 120mm fan at the least.
Wireless Card: TP-Link TL-WN881ND @ $19
You can get a cheaper USB adapter. I wouldn't bother with a PCI slot card unless you're going to keep it for a while and it has great antennas.
HDD: WD Black 1TB @ $99
Save some money and get the WD Blue. You won't notice a difference unless you're planning to do something like video encoding or major file transfers, etc... For what you've described, I wouldn't bother with a Black.
GPU: Gigabit GTX 960 2GB PCI Express 3.0 Windforce 2X @ $309
It's a good video card, and I love GTX cards. But my question to you is are you planning to get a G-sync monitor? Because if not, you can get an equal power GPU for far less money if you go with AMD.
PSU
You'll want a 550w psu. You could probably safely go to 450w, but if you add more devices to your pc it could put stress on it. 650w if you can throw a few more dollars at it would probably be in the ideal "power saving" zone.
............
So at this point, I was building a PC in partpicker as I talked this out with you, and I realized that you'd go far, far over budget. It won't be possible to build a $1000, overclockable PC without making some huge sacrifices.
This is more or less what I would've picked out for you, given your post and your wishlist, and no budget.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.00 @ CPL Online)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($42.00 @ CPL Online)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-K/CSM ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($159.00 @ CPL Online)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Z Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($109.00 @ CPL Online)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($148.00 @ Umart)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.00 @ Umart)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 280 3GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($259.00 @ CPL Online)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 300R Windowed ATX Mid Tower Case ($114.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($115.00 @ CPL Online)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($19.00 @ CPL Online)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($125.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WN725N 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($9.90 @ CPL Online)
Monitor: BenQ XL2411Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($398.00 @ PLE Computers)
Keyboard: Ducky DK2108-BUSLLA Wired Gaming Keyboard ($99.00 @ CPL Online)
Mouse: Razer DeathAdder 2013 Wired Optical Mouse ($43.00 @ CPL Online)
Headphones: SteelSeries Siberia V2 Headset ($89.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $2046.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-28 17:48 EST+1100
Since it was so far overbudget even before adding a monitor, I went ahead and added a gaming keyboard and mouse with your favored color backlighting, as well as a good set of headphones with mic.
.................
This how I always start out my builds. I basically build a "wish list" of things I really, really want to have, if money were (almost) no object.
The next thing I do is to start downgrading parts in order of least importance, based on what I'm willing to sacrifice.
Personally... I'd start with giving up on overclocking and go with a stock motherboard, CPU, RAM, and stock cooler. Then I would drop the GPU down a few pegs. If I dropped the 120hz monitor, I'd at least get a very good IPS monitor instead.
So... let's see... I'm just spitballing here...
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i3-4160 3.6GHz Dual-Core Processor ($149.00 @ Centre Com)
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty H97 Performance ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($133.00 @ CPL Online)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($91.00 @ IJK)
Storage: Seagate 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($103.00 @ CPL Online)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R7 265 2GB Video Card ($169.00 @ CPL Online)
Case: Silverstone PS10B ATX Mid Tower Case ($57.98 @ Mwave Australia)
Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Essential 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($55.00 @ IJK)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($19.00 @ CPL Online)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($125.00 @ Mwave Australia)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WN725N 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($9.90 @ CPL Online)
Monitor: ViewSonic VA2249S 60Hz 21.5" Monitor ($139.00 @ IJK)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($46.00 @ CPL Online)
Headphones: Logitech G230 Headset ($56.00 @ IJK)
Total: $1152.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-28 18:18 EST+1100
That's probably what I'd do on a tight budget like what you've described.