Paul asks…
which violin piece is harder: one with 2 sharps in the key signature or one with none?
You see, I’m going to this camp and they’re asking me to play a piece. I have 2 pieces I can pick out of: one with two sharps in the key signature and one with none. I want to play the more advanced piece.
Abigail0309 answers:
Most violinists start out playing in the key of D major.(the one with two sharps) because it is the one that is the most natural to the violin. If you play with tapes, when you put your fingers on the D string (3/0), D is open, E is the first tape, F# is the second tape, and G is the third tape. The fourth tape is A, which is the same note as the open second string (2/0) You can play the entire one octave D scale on those two strings. (the second half of the scale is A (2/0) B 2/1) C# (2/2) and High D (2/3))
In order to play in the key of C, (No Sharps, No flats) you have to play all of the Fs low or Down. You have to play High C low as well (3/2 down or low) I almost forgot, the first string G is down or low as well.
The whole C major scale would be low C (4/3) D (3/0) E (3/1) F (3/2 down or low) G (3/3) A (3/4 0r 2/0) B (2/1) High C (2/2 down or low)
The other factors you need to consider are:
1. How much syncopation is in each piece? Syncopation is the “salsa” of music but it does make music more difficult to play)
2. How many accidentals are in each piece? Accidentals are sharps or flats outside of the normal key signature)
3. What is the tempo of each piece? Tempo is how fast or slow each piece goes. A very slow piece in a more difficult key could still be slightly easier than a moderately fast piece in an easy key.
If you gave us the name of each piece I might be able to make a more informed recommendation. Without anything else to go on, my best recommendation is to tell you to work up the piece in the key of C. (No sharps or flats) IT may seem like the easier key with most instruments, but for violin, it is definately more challenging. Just remember:
F = 3/2 down or low
C = 2/2 down or low
F = 1/1 down or low (you actually put your first finger very close to the neck nut)
G = 1/2 down or low
Hope this helps.
Addendum: Whether you learn a 2-3 pattern first or a 1-2, 3-4, open, split or closed pattern first (I have never heard of teaching the 1-2 pattern first, but apparently my esteemed colleague has) it is still more challenging to play a piece that incorporates a low one (F on the E string, one down or low one which requires shifting from first position to half position) than without one. Saying that an adjudicator does not take the piece (0r the key signature) into consideration may be a bit disingenuous as well, since they normally ask for a copy to review while they are judging. Since you did not ask about intonation, tone, or the placement of the instrument, I did not bring it up. If you really want to know which piece is considered more challenging however, you may want to send a quick e-mail with the titles to the judge below there. Want to place a nickel bet on which one he picks?
By the way, in the unlikely case you are not familiar with patterns, the numbers simply refer to the fingers that you put together. A 2-3 pattern means that the second and third fingers are close together and the first and third fingers are apart, in a V pattern. This is the position that a bsginning Violinist uses to play the one octave G major, D major, and A jajor scales in open ( or first ) position. Later on, when a musician starts to play in closed positions, (2nd, 3rd 4th and so on) they would start the scale with a 3-4 pattern:
Example: A Major / 2nd position
G string – 3-4 pattern A – B – C# – D
D string – 3-4 pattern E – F# – G# – A
A string – 2-3 pattern B – C# – D – E
E string – 2-3 pattern F# – G# – A
I’m not going to bore you with my background or experience. If the information I provide is of use to you, enjoy. If it isn’t, it doesn’t matter how much experience I claim to have. Have fun during your summer camp and congratulations for wanting to take the challenge.
William asks…
Im not sure what guitar to buy? strings and brands?
hey ive played piano for ages and am now about to get my fill of some guitar, i would like to learn music like stairway to heaven, hey there delilah, scar tissue etc, what type of strings do you suggest?? and are there any brands that are really good or really bad? i dont know anything about it im afraid
Abigail0309 answers:
There’s no such thing as a one-size-fits-all guitar, so the best thing you could do is go to a guitar store and test drive a bunch of different brands. Each brand tends to have its own feel, but as a beginner, you’ll probably do better with a guitar that has a thin neck and low action (strings close to the fretboard), since those things make it much easier and more comfortable to move smoothly between chords and notes.
Ibanez makes fantastic guitars that are built like rocks, sound great and are often nicer than guitars costing twice as much. They’re also known for having incredibly thin necks and low action, which makes them popular with lead players. Fender electrics (including the Squier line) also have very user-friendly necks and are well-made guitars. I’d avoid anything made by Epiphone when you’re just getting started. Epiphone makes great guitars, but the necks tend to be really chunky, which makes them challenging to play. If you were inclined toward a Les Paul-style guitar, you might be better off using an Ibanez version of that model, since it would have the same sound, but the neck would enable you to play it more comfortably.
I’ll post some links to guitars that would probably suit your style pretty well, all of which have thin necks, low action and plenty of sound options. If you read the reviews, you’ll find that they’re great guitars. Once you’ve done some research, you’ll be better prepared to compare guitars side by side at a guitar store and see if any of them feels right to you.
Http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Ibanez-GRX20-Electric-Guitar?sku=519417 (A good all-purpose guitar with two humbucker pickups, which generate a nice, crunchy sound.)
http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Ibanez-GART50QA-Electric-Guitar?sku=584121 (Similar to a Les Paul, but much more comfortable to play.)
http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Ibanez-ART100-Artist-Electric-Guitar?sku=512354#used (A gorgeous, Les Paul-styled guitar.)
I’m partial to D’Addario strings and usually use a regular light gauge set, since the sound is neither too thin nor too bass-heavy for playing lots of different music styles. Lead players tend to prefer thinner strings (ultra light gauge), while rhythm players lean toward heavier gauges. Medium-to-light gauge strings are great for people who alternate between playing rhythm and lead. I’ll post a link to the kind I’ve been using for a few years. They’re long-lasting, sound really nice and don’t cost a fortune.
Http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/D’Addario-EXL110-Nickel-Regular-Light-Electric-Guitar-Strings?sku=100191
James asks…
electric guitar strings?
Between these two brands which are the best?
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/daddario-exl110-nickel-light-electric-guitar-strings-10-pack#review
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/ernie-ball-2223-nickel-super-slinky-guitar-strings-buy-10-get-2-free#review
Abigail0309 answers:
Ernie ball is better than d’addario but its a matter of opinion both are great but i like ernie ball as for me i love the sustain that it provide, i would suggest u to buy 1 set of each and see which one works for u!
Ruth asks…
My guitar doesn’t carry off high notes well, what might be the problem?
I have the Epiphone G-310 SG,
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/epiphone-g-310-sg-electric-guitar
I never replaced the pickups, but I did straighten out the neck and tightened the loose tuning pegs once I got it. Other than that, nothing’s been changed to the guitar’s structure, including the stock pickups.
I use Ernie’s Ball Heavy Bottom strings, and I change them about every month and a half.
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/ernie-ball-2215-nickel-skinny-top-heavy-bottom-electric-guitar-strings#review
I use a RAT distorion pedal.
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Rat2?utm_source=none&utm_medium=PPC&utm_campaign=none&gclid=CNzP7cjv4rICFY1DMgod8kkAj
And a Fender Mustang I
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/amplifiers-effects/fender-mustang-i-20w-1×8-guitar-combo-amp
I play classic metal. This guitar carries off low tones, such as Sabbath or Priest riffs REALLY well, despite some fret buzz… However, I try to play Sabbath, Anvil, GnR, and other solos, but really anything below the 12th on G, B, and high E sound like crap. They shriek, like I’m fretting them wrong, but I’ve been doing the same solos for years and I believe I know what I’m doing. They lack a good, classic wail or whine that any ripping solo has. Why doesn’t my guitar handle high notes well? Is it the strings? The pickups? The model? I doubt it, but the pedal or the amp?
Abigail0309 answers:
I will have to qualify my answer by pointing out that I’m in no way an expert on equipment…but I’ve been playing for years, so I do have some suggestions:
1. Try thicker strings. I started out with .09 and even .08 for ease of bending but later settled on .11 for a thicker sound and I think it’s definitely worth it.
2. You may need to replace the pickups. Electronic equipment does wear down over time. Again, I’m not particularly knowledgeable about pickups but if they are old and have seen a lot of use, it is certainly possible that they have lost some of their ability.
3. The frets on the neck may be worn, resulting in uneven tones. I used to have an old guitar whose frets were so worn, it became unusable. You can replace the neck if this is the case.
4. The circuitry inside the pedal may be worn or burned out. This may happen slowly over time or rather quickly if you don’t have the exact AC adapter. Some of that electronic stuff can be very sensitive to even minor changes in amperage and/or voltage.
Beyond that, I would advise you to take the guitar to the shop and let a professional have a look at it. Good luck!
George asks…
Looking for customer reviews for Sterling Silver 5 5-6mm Genuine Freshwater Cultured White…?
…Pearl Necklace Bracelet & Stud Earrings Set
Where can I find reviews and opinions online for Sterling Silver 5 5-6mm Genuine Freshwater Cultured White Pearl Necklace Bracelet & Stud Earrings Set
Abigail0309 answers:
Customer Reviews
16 Reviews
5 star: (7)
4 star: (7)
3 star: (1)
2 star: (1)
1 star: (0)
Average Customer Review
4.2 out of 5 stars (16 customer reviews)
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars A Good Deal, April 15, 2008
By H. Gustafson (Florida) – See all my reviews
I bought this set for myself and I have been very pleased with it. It looks and feels very nice (especially considering the low price). The clasp is a little bit difficult to attach by one’s self, but otherwise a very nice item.
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars It’s great for the price, August 14, 2008
By J. Kochel – See all my reviews
I bought them for my bridesmaids. All my girls have dif. Dresses so I wanted matching jewelry and shoes, but from past experience I know you never wear the jewelry again. I wanted something that looked nice and was cheap so I could also buy them something else. This set was perfect. Plus it’s sterling silver for my bridesmaid with a nickel allergy. It looks nice when it’s on. It’s hard to clasp and they are strung on what feels like fishing wire. However, they’re 9.99 so I don’t care since it’s for one day. Plus the earrings are simple enough that they might wear them again.
Donald asks…
i want to learn to play the electric guitar but i need some tips first please!!?
OK so i want to learn how to play the guitar but i have no idea what the best guitar for me (a begginer) would be also what other stuff do i need to know or need to buy. I am on a thight budget of less than 200$ so nothing too profesional i just want to start playing any sugestions would be apresiated.
Abigail0309 answers:
$200.00 is a pretty tight budget… One of the Epiphone starter packs would probably be your best bet. The Les Paul or SG, depending on what appeals to you… I find the Les Paul easier to hold and like the way it hangs from the strap better. Kits really have everything you need. Might want to buy a few sets of extra light 9 gauge strings (what comes on most guitars), a few Fender light and medium picks. Light picks are easier to learn with, but as you advance you’ll want to get used to the medium picks (at least) for better dynamics and durability. That Dean Vendetta XM guitar on the same page looks extremely tempting too. Don’t know if you could still fit a decent practice amp, quartz tuner, cord and strap into your budget buying things separately… The starter packages even come with a gig bag. Hard to beat the value. Http://www.musiciansfriend.com/navigation/electric-guitars?N=100001+304275+8
Here’s some gear I’ve had experience with that I would consider an excellent value for the money. All of it would be a little better than what comes with a starter package. Also my string and pick recommendations…
Http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Crate-GTD15-Guitar-Amplifier-?sku=480057
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Korg-GA30-GuitarBass-Tuner?sku=210526
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Horizon-Standard-Guitar-Cable?sku=336010
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Dunlop-D38-Solid-Guitar-Strap?sku=365005
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Fender-351-Premium-Celluloid-Picks?sku=110556
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/DAddario-EXL120-Nickel-Super-Light-Electric-Guitar-Strings?sku=100193
It’s best to stay away from guitars with a tremolo system (whammy bar) in the lowest price range. They won’t stay in tune, they’ll always sound bad and you’ll lose interest. Starting out with a solid guitar that stays in tune fairly well and eventually upgrading the pickups for better sound is a popular way to go.
If you stay with it… My first upgrade would be to invest in a multi-effects device. Makes your playing sound more like what you hear on the CDs… Makes playing and practicing much more fun and satisfying. Generally come with a few different amp / distortion emulations, reverbs, delays, chorus, etc… I’d stick with something by Line 6, Boss, Digitech, or ToneWorks (Korg). Http://www.musiciansfriend.com/navigation/guitar-multi-effects?N=100001+335582&Ns=P_Price|0&page=3
Upgrading the pickups eventually is always a good idea on most guitars under $500.00 (and some that cost more). The stock pickups on cheap guitars tend to sound kind of “dead”, especially overdriven (distorted). Some are truly horrible. Can’t go wrong with a Seymour Duncan ’59 in the neck position. Another ’59 at the bridge… Or a Duncan Distortion if you lean more towards playing really heavy stuff…
After that… If you want to play with a drummer… You’d need at least a 100 watt combo amp with 2 12″ drivers…. You wouldn’t have to worry about bells and whistles if you already had multi-effects. Maybe a nicer guitar with a heavier build, better hardware, better tuning stability and richer sound to pop your upgraded pickups into someday…
EDIT: Actually… The reviews for the other body style of Dean guitar don’t look too encouraging. I’d probably stick with the Epiphone.
Jenny asks…
My guitar’s neck flexes a lot, making it impossible to play in tune. It’s an epiphone sg. Any suggestions?
I was looking at reviews online, and a few people have had the same problem. Even if i tip the guitar forwards and backwards, you can hear the pitch change a LOT. I adjusted the intonation, and tried tightening and loosening the truss rod, but that didn’t help the flexing issue. I have had it for a few years, with the problem the whole time. I recently changed the strings, using D’Addario Regular light nickel wound .010 strings. Some people have said that it’s just the way they’re made, and the flex is to make up for the lack of a whammy bar. I really like the look and tone of it, but I’m thinking that i should just sell it and get a guitar with a stronger neck. Any suggestions?
Abigail0309 answers:
This is a common issue with these types of guitars, even the Gibson SG and some other ones like the Special and Junior some times has this flexing issue.
There is absolutely nothing you can do about it. If you want to play these guitar types, you will either have to live with it (add in that they some of them are neck heavy too), or do a lot of testing to find one with a stiffer neck and a solid neck-to-body joint.
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