Chris asks…
How do install a car seat in a 2001 chrysler concorde?
We just got the car and it has a area near the back window to use the clamp straps that came on the seat. I cant find where the lower straps clamp though. the car didn’t come with an owners manual so I am a bit lost. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
NydiaMccartney answers:
They are in the crack between the two halves of the seat. (the area between the horizontal and vertical portions of the rear seat).
Mary asks…
Can a mechanic tell if the odometer has been rolled back?
I’m planning on getting a used car and taking an independent mechanic with me to check out the cars. Just wondering if it is easy for a professional to find out whether the odometer has been rolled back. I’m seeing some pretty suspicious things out there… and a LOT of people selling without RWC.
Also, any idea what a mechanic usually charges to go inspect a car?
Thanks!
NydiaMccartney answers:
It depends on year make and model, cars with digital dashes, can be taken to a dealership, and a smart mechanic knows how to check the original miles of the vehicle, odometers are supposed to be difficult to roll back, and are made in such a way that lines appear or something does not look quite right , but it pays to pay attention, when I am looking to buy a used car, one of the red flags to me, is a guy who just bought something, and is suddenly selling it. I don’t have a problem with someone buying and selling cars, I can understand that part. What tees me off, is if they blow smoke up my butt with some B S lie about that. If they are going to lie about buying a car to sell, then what else are they lying about too?
Common sense goes a long way here too. Keep in mind, that no matter what an odometer reads, someone was always sitting in the drivers seat, right? So with that in mind, as you are looking at the drivers compartment, if it says 50,000 kph, yet there is significant wear on brake pedal, or all the small writing on cruise control switch on turn signal is worn off, it does not look right. Pay attention, another common place for wear is the drivers door, a low miles car, the hinges will be super tight, A high mileage door, the hinges will be worn out. Same with the the plate on the bottom of the door jamb itself, feet sliding across a painted surface can wear off the paint.
I found a old used chevy nova one time super cheap, it had a funny rattle when you hit bumps, the lady was all set to buy a new car with her husband, and that was the only space available was the garage the nova was in, and until it left, her nice pretty new car could not come home, she practically gave me the car
I got .it home out of a dark garage, to discover the odometer which read 34000 miles (I thought it was 134,000 at first.
When I got to looking the car over, it had all the original belts and hoses, hose clamps, (the little wire ones that everyone replaces with real hose clamps) were all there, little stickers on the air cleaner, spare tire was never removed, and factory sealed, the interior, which appeared old, and stained and dingy, just had years of dirt, when cleaned up, it was absolutely perfect, just like new, it was kind of weird, the banging noise was a rusted muffler, no big deal, I cleaned up this old nova and with a professional detailing this thing looked fantastic for a 26 year old car.
So pay attention, and ask questions, that’s your best defense against crooks. And always take a car to a mechanic of you want more information.
William asks…
How Do I know If my brakes hoses are bad on cavalier?
On 01 Cavalier how would I know if brake hoses are bad. And calipers too? My car makes gm squeek noise when I stop sometimes. You know the signal when brakes pads are low. I replaced pads. Used c clamp to push piston back into caliper and it seemed ok. Still makes warning sound when braking. Any thoughts.
NydiaMccartney answers:
Did you also replace the rotors/drums? They might be worn out as well, I recently replaced my rotors and pads all the way around and it still squeaked for a little while due to new equipment. After a while it went away. The hoses should have little to nothing to due with that noise. But if they are dry-rotted (the rubber lines are cracking and crumbling) and also looks for leaks and bulges. If any, replace them.
Paul asks…
What could have caused my 1986 Nissan 300zx issue first and what else can i check?
This car is dead at my parents place and im not around to tow it or work on it, but i will be, so u can still suggest that i check something real quick and il reply after this summer or so.
Problem started one morning, was fine the night before. Sometimes hesitant to get going from first acceleration. Car will not rest at idle, always dies.
Smelled gas around fuel pressure regulator. Found rotted hoses.
Replaced:Fuel filter, top and bottom hoses (not the return hose)
Fuel pressure regulator assembly and hoses (were cracked, a LOT)
Same problem
Ran self diagnoses: Got codes for TPS, and load signal (<-sometimes wouldn't)
Found TPS harness rotted, replaced wires, checked continuity bridged to ECU, eventually calibrated/tilted TPS body for proper operation, and put back 3rd wire.
No Change
Was looking for worn hoses/lines (not messing with more wires)
Replaced: Some vac hoses from air flow meter near headlight
[note: old vac hoses were small and stretched, i used clamps because i was not going to get new tiny hoses to expand that much]
Looked for EGR and PCV, thought about idle control, maybe air flow.
The book shows the the TPS signal is involved with every major function/calculation needed to run.
ECU always gives TPS error code (2 red, 3 green)
Wiring, fuel pump, air meter, control…probably not ignition.
Got an original ECU from parts car on ebay, said it was fine, looked inside mine too, looks fine.
Put in the other, I get the same exact codes and function (problem)
Mechanic told me to get new distributor cuz it misses on 1 piston, i replaced it, positioned it well enough
sounds great, same problem.
Mechanic said the keyhole might have a contact problem with being released back to {ON}…wtf?
he said to gas it in {START}, to see if it stays, but don’t let it run off with the starter and destroy it.
Didn’t sound any different.
OPINIONS:
From justanswer.com, a community of certified techs and mechs.
From Tim:
check on TPS wire pink/blue for 9-11V closed, 0 when just open ——–(GOOD)
check idle speed warm, [ 700 rpm] ———————————not able to do, duh
clean throttle body—————————–not done, looks & moves fine, not tryin to get in there
adjust air flow bypass screw if too low
try supplemental gas, see if it smooths out, may be too lean ——(tried, DIES, no conclusion)
If lean, make sure no vac leaks
EGR valve closed —————–not found or checked
Ignition timing should be 20deg BTDC——–purrs beautifully with new dist
says that Mass air flow sensor and Oxy sensor can cause it (Zstore in Poquoson guy said it wouldn’t cause what i have)
From Zstore in Poquoson
Maybe the ECU is not controlling fuel pump after start, [pump will prime for ignition, changed ECU, no difference]
said idle control needs gas first and only changes the high and low idle after warming {might check idle parts later}
SUSPECTS:
i’m thinking its the small fuel control electronic unit behind the ECU. maybe the poor fuel pressure (hesitation), maxed out the demand on the fuel control computer. Also could be fuel pump.
??LOAD SIGNAL?? includes:
power steering oil pressure switch
headlamp switch
radiator fan switch
rear defog switch
heat/AC switch
THIS WAS ALL BEFORE SUMMER OF 2010.
AS OF DEC 1st 2011:…
i think the timing sux again, and i took out the catalytic, it was not full of diarrhea like a buddy suspected, so i will put that back
without the cat, it barely fired out
*gas could really be stale, i added some gas-keeper(??)b4 summer
*timing, i should confirm…cuz i havent
*timing belt
*someone told me to check resistance on injector wires
*I HAD AN OIL LEAK in a header on the intake/driver side, i tightened it down but that should be replaced
so far i’ve done this myself, and i hope i can do 90% of more difficult things
i haven’t touched it since spring 2012 when i tried to get the alternator out which requires taking off the whole radiator; i’l do this labor myself when i have the car with me.
the gas filler area keeps rotting the paint off/down the side of the body, ill need a new battery and tires when i reacquire the car
as of may 2013, it has been dead since october ’10 (or 09), so 3yrs (average/approx.)
- thank you for reading, please suggest
NydiaMccartney answers:
Are you getting red and green LED after mode #2? Diagnostics are mode #3? I suspect you have already covered the basics (or Have You) If it was my car I would start with a compression test. Weird uneven compression could indicate timing belt may have jumped. Smell the spark plugs take a fuel sample pour a tables spoon fuel sample on the ground light it does it burn? At some point you may have to find an old gray haired Nissan Technician to go over the basics or cut your loss and donate the car get $1,000 tax credit. Good Luck
Linda asks…
What all i have to check before buying secondhand car?
my plan is to buy a second hand car at 2.5 lak, but what all i have to check to find its a good one.
Hope you will suggest a cars too!
NydiaMccartney answers:
SORRY if some of the following is irrelevant. Most of it is important for you, though.
1. Try not to make your inquiry call during dinnertime. Don’t call too late in the evening or too early in the morning.
2. When calling the seller to inquire, have a list of questions ready. Verify the make, model, year, mileage and general condition of the vehicle. Ask why the vehicle is being sold. If the answers to your questions are satisfactory, schedule an appointment.
3. Be on time for your appointment. If you have to reschedule, call to make arrangements.
4. Examine the pedals and drivers’ seat for wear. While odometer tampering is not as common as it once was, this will give you a good estimation of how much the car was driven.
5. Check the tires, especially the front, for wear. If they are worn unevenly, the car will need front end work. Alignment, shocks, tires, tie rods.
6. With the car off, jiggle the steering wheel back and forth. There should be less than one inch of play, and no funny clunking noises. If there are, the car may need a steering rack or steering gearbox.
7. Check the shocks by pushing the car down three times and releasing at each wheel. The car should go up, down, and stop. Repeat for all wheels.
8. Examine under the rocker panels on the side of the car for rust. Once rust starts, it is extremely difficult and costly to stop it.
9. Before the test drive, check the coolant. It should not be brown.
10. Check the floor of the passenger compartment for soft spots (rust), and the inside of the trunk for holes.
11. When starting, the engine should turn quickly and the car should start easily.
12. A rough running car can mean any number of things, from leaky air hoses to plugged fuel filter to old spark plugs. Don’t discount a car just because it runs rough.
13. When driving the car, the brakes should not shake, grind or squeal loudly. Some squeaking is normal for disc brakes. The brake pedal should feel firm but not hard.
14. An automatic transmission should shift solidly. If you are unsure about the auto trans, shift it manually. There should be little lag between moving the shift lever and gear changes, and the engine RPMs should change quickly.
15. A manual transmission should be easy to put into gear, and the clutch should catch close to the floor.
16. Don’t forget to check the reverse gear!
17. Make sure all electric accessories work: windows, locks, audio systemm, seats, alarm (if equipped).
18. Check all doors for locking (manual and auto), windows, open them from the inside, the outside, and closing.
19. Turn on the heater (even if it’s summer) within moments of turning the car on. How long does it take to provide heat?
20. Test the air conditioning. Put the meat thermometer in the center vent to check the temperature. 50 degrees Fahrenheit is pretty cold.
21. Test drive the car like you’d normally use it. This includes freeway and city driving. Keep an eye on the temp.
22. While parked with the engine running, turn the steering wheel completely in both directions. A squealing noise indicates a slipping power steering pump drive belt. While this may be fixed by an adjustment, overheating from friction may have damaged the belt and it may need replacing. There should be no growling noise; such a noise indicates low power steering fluid, easily confirmed by inspecting the reservoir. Low power steering fluid is likely caused by a leaking power steering system, which could be a simple hose or clamp, an easily accessible seal (in an older vehicle), or a damaged steering rack, which can be quite expensive to replace.
23. Check the auto trans fluid with the engine running. It should smell sweet and have little particulate matter. Burnt orange or brown fluid means it hasn’t been changed in a long time. A burnt smell indicates a slipping clutch band, which may require a transmission rebuild to correct.
24. With the hood up, let the car idle with the AC running. Listen and look for the operation of the cooling fan near the radiator. If there was no overheating, this should be working fine. Keep your hands clear, as the fan can start and stop without warning (even if the car is off for a short period after it’s hot)
25. After the test drive, check the oil with the engine off. Black oil is not necessarily bad, but it shouldn’t feel gritty. Check under the oil cap; it should be clean. White foam under the oil cap indicates coolant in the oil, and expensive engine repairs.
26. Examine the battery. If it looks old, it probably is, but batteries are cheap and easy to replace.
27. Check the air filter. Dirty or clean doesn’t matter, although if very dirty it can adversely affect both performance and economy. For a paper filter make sure there’s no oil in it.
28. Examine the gaps between body panels. Uneven gaps indicate shoddy accident repair.
29. Consider bringing a small magnet with you. If the body of the car is steel (some are fiberglass, such as the Corvette, and others such as the Saturn are
Laura asks…
How much did I mess up my new car battery?
Hi guys, I drive a 97′ Ford mustang. 6 cylinder.
I just purchased a new car battery, and I left my lights on for 8 hours, came back to find my car dead.
My simple question is… how much did I mess up my battery? My brother mentioned that it was not good for my new battery to do that, and now I’m all paranoid that I done fucked up.
Lemme know whats up! 5 points.
NydiaMccartney answers:
You can do one of two things to charge the battery back up: #1. The best, safest way to recharge the battery is to hook a self-leveling, automatic battery charger to the battery @ 2 amps while it’s still in the car till the green light shows on the charger. Self leveling automatic battery chargers will never over charge the battery and boil the acid. It can be left on as long as you like with no fear of overcharging.*Always re-charge a dead battery using the lowest amperage setting!
#2. Jump the battery with a good pair of battery cables with a low AWG rating (2-4) on the cables. The more expensive the battery cables the better the alligator clamps on the ends. The lower the AWG rating of the cables, the lower the electrical loss when jumping a dead battery.
*ALWAYS hook both cables to the dead battery first! Dead batteries emit explosive hydrogen gas which can cause an explosion when the cables are hooked to the car that is running first. If the cables are hooked to the car that’s running first, a spark at the terminals of the dead battery COULD cause it to explode!! After the car with the dead battery has started drive it for at least 45 minutes to recharge the dead battery from the alternator.
George asks…
How do you install a lower radiator hose for a 2002 Volkswagen jetta?
My car and engine is still overheating after I put water or antifreeze coolant in it. There is a leak in the lower radiator hose how do I install it?
NydiaMccartney answers:
Buy the hose and new hose clamps and more coolant and use a screwdriver to install.
Sandy asks…
How do I find out what all the hoses are called for a cooling system to the 1994 Pontiac Sunbird?
I need to replace the radiator & hoses on my car. I found a radiator I can buy but I need to know how to find out each of the hoses so I can buy them.
NydiaMccartney answers:
What you are looking for are called hose routing diagrams. These are different from vacuum hose diagrams. Getting the hoses off for a beginner can be tricky. NEVER — “I repeat” — NEVER open the cooling system hot! Check the hoses with your hands to see that they are cool. For a radiator, you need to remove the electric cooling fans, the radiator support, the transmission cooler lines at the radiator, remove the radiator cap and drain the coolant, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, remove the radiator, replace the thermostat, back flush the heater core. —- reinstall the radiator, reinstall the trans cooler lines, reinstall the hoses(use a little silicone on the insides of the ends to help slide them on easier and seal them), tighten all hose clamps, reinstall radiator support brackets, reinstall electric fans, fill with proper coolant at the correct “glycol” level. Run the engine without the radiator cap on until the thermostat opens and circulation can be seen in the radiator when “rev ving” the engine. Shut the engine off and let cool. RE-fill the coolant system including the over flow reservoir. Replace cap and test for leaks and to see if the cooling system is sealed and functioning properly.
You should be using a service manual. This will tell you how to do most jobs your self. Alldata(online service manual) is what most shops use.
Helen asks…
How can I regulate current from a solar panel?
I am thinking of buying a 13w solar panel called the nomad 13 from goal zero.
I want to charge 35Wh lithum batteries. I have heard that lithium batteries are temperatmental and without a regulated current things could get ugly.
I have a couple of chargers that came with the batteries. One is a 12v car charger and another is 110-240v wall charger.
Goal zero sell something called a sherpa 50, which contains rechargeable batteries and an inverster and I think they suggest that I charge my batteries indirectly through the Sherpa 50, however, the sherpa 50 is expensive at $200, and seems to have a small capacity, in addition to being extra weight that i don`t want to carry.
Electronics geniuses, you are my only hope.
NydiaMccartney answers:
Lithium batteries do have special charging requirements. I would recommend that you use the 12 volt charger that came with them to keep them happy.
Automotive power systems can have voltages as high as 14.5 volts when the engine is running so there’s no need to limit the output of the panel to anything less than that. Check with the charger manufacturer to see what it will withstand. Some will work with systems up to 24 volts nominal (up to 29 volts actual) found in larger commercial vehicles such as trucks and busses. If your charger will work with both 12 and 24 volt systems you might not need anything extra to use the unregulated output of the panel.
Otherwise I’d recommend a shunt regulator to clamp the output of the panel to no more than 14.5 volts. That way it would dissipate (waste) very little of the panel’s power, and even that would only be during those rare times when the panel is producing maximum output. Such a device could be as simple as a high power zener diode, a low power zener coupled with a power transistor, or a precision shunt regulator such as a TL431 coupled with a power transistor.
A more complex way would be a to use buck/boost regulator between the panel and your charger. You might gain a slight advantage under low light conditions when the panel isn’t putting out much but the overall efficiency could end up worse than the simpler shunt regulator.
Under optimum conditions, I would expect it to take a full day for a 13 watt (peak) panel to charge just one of your 35 Wh batteries. Charging an intermediate device such as the Sherpa 50 through its built in charger and then using it to charge your battery through yet another charger would severely cut your overall efficiency.
Depending on how long you’ll be gone, it might be far more practical, reliable, and economical to just carry (or find a way to be resupplied with) a few additional fully charged 35 Wh batteries.
Don
Powered by Yahoo! Answers
Share and Enjoy
• Facebook • Twitter • Delicious • Digg • StumbleUpon • Add to favorites • Email • RSS