From taking less is more approach to dress the table and ditching the antiseptic white for organic, earthy tones, here’s how F&B has been updating its table top looks by Madhulika Dash
Let’s go with Porcelain.” For a generous part of yesteryears, this was the single most effective rule to choose tableware, and succeeding. An exception would be the use of silverware for high-end dining or shiny copper in restaurants like Bukhara or Frontier. Today, this suggestion is interpreted as lack of imagination or sheer out-dateness. Much like, says culinary consultant, Sabysachi Gorai, “How a suggestion of using aluminum or natural slate back then would be.”
Gorai, along with contemporaries like Chef Manish Mehrotra and the like, have been instrumental in giving the pristine, almost antiseptic kind of table dressing, a “dash of colour and quirkiness.” Take the instance of his recent venture Lavaash by Saby. Based on Armenian cuisine, food is served in handmade earthenware, sourced from potters in West Bengal – akin to the style followed back then. Or, Chef Mehrotra’s Indian Accent, a game changer at not only changing the perception of Indian food but also the art of plating, it has proved how quirkiness – the Prestige custom made pressure cooker to serve palate cleanser is a case in point – can up the ante for fine dining as well.
Clearly, says the culinary wizard, “The days when tableware was just tool to be served on (and with) are over. Today, tableware is as big a part of the experience as the décor and the menu.”
Agrees Chef Mehrotra, whose mix and match of the old world Porcelain with the new miniature serveware has worked well to make each meal memorable. This perhaps explains the rise in interesting tableware, which isn’t just limited to the plates, but also the glasses and the shape of the spoons and forks.
Playing the table, says Zorawar Kalra, MD, Massive Restaurants, “Is today key to staying in business. You have to not only appear interesting, but have a story to tell every time a guest sits to have his meal. And the best way to do is to give him options that challenge his perceptions. This is where tableware works its magic.” Kalra’s Masala Library By Jiggs Kalra along with Indian Accent and Riyaz Amlani’s Social (that made eating with the infamous aluminum ware fashionable) have been perfect examples of how to use quirkiness to the maximum advantage!
This success has encouraged many a hotels to go unconventional and innovative. Example: Pluck and Honk in Pullman. While Honk, Pan Asian specialty restaurant, has upped the ante by not only using handmade cutleries (no two spoon or fork are the same) but also brought back the show plate back in vogue with its wooden-brass offering; Pluck, based on the farm to table concept, uses customised Searax pillows and platters to serve its dishes and salad, which look like unfinished pieces.
"It is what adds the charm to eating at Honk or Pluck, especially the latter which serves food and salad leaves that are freshly plucked from the garden every morning. Plus, the interesting shape makes a simple presentation eye catching – like the herb infused butter that is presented on small pillow plates and resembles a soap case, ” says culinary designer, Chef Ajay Anand.
The charm is what enticed Neeraj Tyagi (executive chef, Shangri-La Eros, New Delhi) to go street-wise while working on the table work of Mister Chai – the Indian street food lounge. “The masala chai here is served in blue coloured tea glasses from a rustic kettle that one can find in small tea shops. The plates that serve small eats imitate the ones that is used by the street food vendors.” In fact, Chef Tyagi’s use of a drawer as tray to serve food has been one of the biggest attraction at Mister Chai, much like the handmade rickshaw was for Masala Library By Jiggs Kalra when it started.
Fascinatingly, while most of the quirkiness looks interesting, there is, confess the chefs, “a method to the madness, which begins with the theme and continues to refine till the perfect balance is achieved.”
Take the case of the Jalebi Caviar that is served in a plate that looks like half a sea shell. The idea, reveals Kalra, “came from the fact that the Jalebi was made into a caviar, small eggs that individually looked like little pearls. And that’s when the plate was created that gave the dish that luxurious deal.”
Likewise for the Daulat Ki Chaat at Indian Accent, which uses fake notes and dry ice to create the entire story for this winter dessert or the Ghee Roast Soya Boti, Romali Roti Pancakes, Chutney, which comes in a small tray that uses a momo box for the roti, a miniature copper saucepan for the boti and is a DIY dish.
The quirkiness interestingly extends to drinks as well. Like the Canary served at Lavaash by Saby, which is served inside the cage since it tells the story of the canary who was used by mineworkers to avoid crevices that had methane gas in it. It is a similar case with MasalaBar’s Bollywood Bhang, which is served inside a skull.
Clearly, the way ahead for restaurants (and their survival) is being innovative much like they are with the menu. After all, tableware is a differentiating factor between one brand and another. But is the sense of being unique and out of the menu attraction that only consideration for the tableware change?
"The role that tableware plays today in the overall appeal of the restaurant cannot be denied, and thus selecting tableware needs careful consideration not only of the chef’s vision of presenting the food, but also the theme, the design, décor, and of course the price point," says Suveer Sodhi, director F&B, Shangri La – Eros Hotel, New Delhi. “Currently, the trend seems to be focusing on materials such as stone, slate, matte finished metal mixed with porcelain pieces to enhance the overall appeal and experience at a restaurant. Glossy tableware has taken a backseat.”
The other reason, says Chef Paul Kinny, culinary director, Phoenix Mills, “Is also the perception a restaurant wants to create followed by what works best for the food served.”
Take the case of Mumbai’s first Gastrobar, Long & Short at InterContinental Marine Drive, which Chef Kinny put together, and back then was a trendsetter when it came to using mismatched tableware. “The idea was to highlight food by way of nostalgia. So the mutton biryani was served in a beaten copper vessel and the burgers in cane basket,” adds Chef Kinny, who in his new venture Shizusan uses high quality melamine compound to create textured plates that not only gives that premium appeal to the casual dining space but also gives the durability, especially when the goal is “crunching numbers.”
In fact, Social along with Sodabottleopenerwala made unfinished and unconventional tableware fashionable. According to Impressario chief, Riyaaz Amlani, “The thing about being unconventional tableware is that while it is jarring, it is extremely indulging and hugely functional, and can be alternated with every new menu to make it more fun.” The cost effectiveness and easy backend handling, agrees Amlani and Gorai, who opted for similar tableware for Sodabottleopenerwala, is an added bonus!
For corporate chef ITC, Manjit Gill, a pioneer of 'less is more approach' with tableware, “The reason that has bought a shift in the tableware is the awareness about food and how the use of a certain kind of tableware and plates would elevate the experience, because post all the theatrics, it is food that does the talking.” An ardent believer in Vedic period tableware, Chef Gill advocates that the use of stoneware or earthenware to serve slow food. “Both stoneware and earthenware add that earthiness to the food, which also adds to the taste of the dish. But more importantly, they maintain the quality of a dish, which when is about modern Indian food is essential.”
Concurs Gorai, who feel that one of the advantage of offbeat tableware aside the interesting twist is also the way they work around food – be it the presentation, perception or the taste.
A point that finds agreement with Oscar Fernandes, owner, Oscar Hospitality Concepts, “The one remarkable trend that has stood out in the last few years is the rustic tableware. One can see manufacturers including the rustic looks in their regular productions schedules instead of just the plain white focus in the past. Customisation though is today a popular theme, it Is still in its nascent stage in India.”
Preserving the quality of food is yet another important reason why chefs have begun experimenting with tableware feels Sameer Luthra, chef and F&B director, Le Meridien Nagpur. “Like the idea behind serving Kobe beef steak on a hot slate so it doesn’t lose its temperature and texture as easily as it would do on a porcelain plate. Likewise for sushi, which is served on an ice plate as it helps to maintain its freshness and proper temperature at which a raw fish is enjoyed, or the wood slab that is used to serving pizza, steak and others.” Take the case of Smoked patthar ke kebab, wasabi walnut chutney served at Farzi Cafe, Delhi. The dish is presented on a slab of hot granite that looks unfinished, much like the young lettuce that is served on a hollow, textured rock in Pluck. The choice of the slab doesn’t only lend the kebab the nostalgia of the real deal, but also ensures that the food tastes much the same.
The other factor that plays a deciding role on choosing tableware is of course the easy availability.
While it is true that hotels process their tableware faster than other departments, consistency, says Gorai, “is also one of the factor that determines whether you would go for a high end porcelain, granite ware or a simple but exotic hand-painted terracotta plates.”
Take the case of Searax for instance. "A single broken plate," says Chef Anand, “takes about 12 months after the order placement to replace, while the regular White plate from Dhankutwa takes anywhere between 6 to 8 months on bulk ordering. Hence cost becomes a crucial decider of tableware.”
That’s when , says Sodhi, “mismatched tableware, local artistic cutlery and tabletops becomes lucrative – and using it a trend. The beauty of using mismatched plates and serve ware ensures that you can keep things interesting even if the custom made crockery is in short supply.”
This is the reason that artisanal table ware studios the Glass House have emerged, says Chef Tyagi, who work to design a series of theme based tableware that can be altered with the season and still not feel out of the place.
Adds Khanna, “The demand for customised tableware has led seasoned manufacturers to take on chefs to help design a tableware series that is exclusive, and yet fits the needs of most of the chefs today.”
Adds Bharat Agarwal, director, Clay Craft India, “At Clay Craft India, over the years, we have tried to overcome this challenge by cataloguing over 500+ products to cater to the varied requirements to the Hotel and F&B industry and a 110+ dealer network, so the supply consistency and lead never breaks.”
The other trend these days, says Luthra “ is ‘Mono portion’ pieces that is being used extensively in buffets and sit down meals. These small sized ramekin pie tin and bowls allows the guests to sample more, while aiding the kitchen to cut down on food wastage.”
And last but not least is narration. Table theatrics may be in vogue today, says Saurabh Khanna, GM, The Park, Calangute, Goa, “but nothing beats the classic of being able to tell a story using tableware that is simple, interesting and without much drama.”
In fact, adds Chef Mehrotra, “In an era where your diners are well travelled, tech savvy and have had the exposure of all forms of luxury, weaving a narration is the sole way to garner their attention – and eventually the patronage.” A clever example of this is The Edamame and chick pea Sliders that is served with homemade potato chips at Pa Pa Ya, is served on a jeep to give it an American touch, since sliders are an American expression for a small sandwich. And the Baileys Lollipop tree at MasalaBar is inspired by the all time favorite, Willy Wonka and the Chocolate factory.
It just elevates the experience to yet another level, says Khanna, as diners return for a newer interpretation every time. The morning dose –which is a collection of interesting mocktails and cocktails – served at hotel to cure hangover is a brilliant showcase of how simple presentation and a good story makes for best seller.”
It is this willingness to narrate a story, say seasoned hoteliers, “ that has led to more unconventional materials dominating the table setting across F&B outlets and room dining in hotels like the tableware made with granite, malachite, ceramic, and bespoke pottery. For in-room dining, more elegant options are used such as sophisticated silver and rose gold tableware. Many bars, adds Yangdup Lama, owner Speakeasy Cocktails, “are now coming up with new ideas of serving drinks in individual flasks, barrels and vessels, punch bowls for a large crowd, and vintage crystal glasses.”
So does this mean it’s time for the Whites to retire? Not a chance, says Haison Jacob, F&B manager, The Zuri, Whitefield, Bengaluru, “The white plate still exudes a class that the other colors can’t match, and is the first choice of any chef to showcase his culinary art.”
In fact, says Agarwal, “Fine bone china is the most preferred kind of tableware with the Global Hotel industry due to its durability, whiteness, light weight and other superior physical properties over its peers.”
Seconds Vijayan Gangadharan, GM, Four Points By Sheraton, Pune, “the new trend in tableware – especially those in plates – though may seem to be growing rapidly, remains majorly a specialised want that goes well with theme restaurant. For the rest, the white (read: classic tableware) will continue to remain the choice, more so because of its easy availability, pairing, cost effectiveness and consistent supply – and the sheer choices.”
Until that can be matched by the ‘new’ artisanal tableware, the new plate-wave could at best be a niche need, determined mostly by the theme and the hotel’s willingness to pay, which says Fernandes, “is often the last section of the procurement phase and by this time most of the projects are already behind schedule . In the haste often they go with what’s on the rack rather than artisanal.”
But eventually, adds Fernandes, “The trend boils down to one thing: what do the diners need. And given that guest quotient is towards the younger, modern generation, it’s only time before the table turns: to the whites or the trendy pieces of today is yet to be seen.”