Conde Naste – Located on the southernmost tip of the continent, South Africa is described as a world in one country, marked with a plethora of distinct ecosystems. It’s home to varied ethnicities and this factor greatly contributes to the culture, particularly its food. Luckily for travellers, many driving routes across the country are dotted with unmissable dining establishments, encouraging them to explore the diverse landscape and its culinary wonders by road.
The Garden Route
Shadowing a magnificent stretch of coastline, this section of the N2 extends from Storms River in the Eastern Cape, passing through Plettenberg Bay, Knysna and George, to Mossel Bay in the Western Cape. Travellers using this stretch usually have Cape Town as either the starting point or the final destination and are handsomely rewarded by ancient forests, mountain hideaways and restaurants en route.
The Fat Fish
Although the food scene in Plettenberg Bay caters to various tastes and bank balances, The Fat Fish continues to be a universal favourite. An unpretentious and relaxed beachfront restaurant, it is known for its seafood offerings like
the grilled hake with caper and lemon butter sauce. (Website)
East Head Café
No better way to take in the spectacular vistas of the Knysna heads and the unspoilt lagoon than by enjoying the popular calamari strips while sipping on craft beer. The burgers here are good, too. (Website)
Gold
This restaurant pays homage to South Africa’s diversity with a menu that’s highly influenced by various other African countries. Enjoy dishes like Congolese spinach while you watch a traditional performance or admire the contemporary African art and artefacts—a sensory experience. (Website)
Moyo
Take in views of the Indian Ocean at Moyo’s uShaka branch—perched at the end of the pier—while digging into traditional African fare such as Nigerian sweet potato and chickpea koftas. Moyo also has another branch in Durban. (Website)
The Test Kitchen
Getting a table here isn’t easy. The Test Kitchen—helmed by the star Chef Luke Dale-Roberts—boasts a fine-dining vegetarian lunch menu with dishes like BBQ carrots, black bean puree, light curry dressing and ras el hanout honeycomb. The Pot Luck Club (Website), The Test Kitchen’s sister restaurant, is located nearby and does a great Sunday brunch with platter-style dishes like pork belly spring roll on offer. (Website)
The Grand Café and Beach
Expect some of the freshest seafood in Cape Town at this trendy spot. For an authentic South African experience, try the Kudu loin with biltong and raisin butter. Nestled on a beach in Granger Bay, its location is hard to beat. (Website)
Reuben’s at One&Only
Named after South Africa’s beloved celebrity chef, Reuben Riffel, Reuben’s at One&Only is one of the four restaurants run by Riffel’s team in the Western Cape. This restaurant serves authentic South African fare in a gastronomic format. The menu includes a tapas-style option called ‘Table Toppers’, designed for sharing. The 2015 winter menu includes a Karoo lamb dish cooked with dried fruit, salted chillies and tempura green beans, which creates a wonderful textural juxtaposition. Another locally-inspired dish is grilled springbok loin served with springbok marrow, finished off with a jus made from Pinotage, a South African red wine varietal. (Website)
The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français
Located in the breathtaking winelands of Franschhoek—a two-hour drive from Cape Town—The Tasting Room is one of South Africa’s best-known restaurants and a regular on Top 10 lists. The ingredients for the degustation menu—conceptualised by Chef Margot Janse—include traditional South African staples such as sorghum and Klein River Gruyère, as well as the more exotic dessert infused with baobab. (Website)Bo-Kaap Kombuis
Cape Town boasts a rich history of Cape Malay culture and religious traditions that have added to the ethnicity of the city. Bo-Kaap Kombuis, situated in the historic r area of Bo-Kaap, pays homage to these traditions by producing a menu dedicated to educating and satiating curious tourists. Expect to find delicacies like boboti and frikkadelles—served by warm hosts Yusuf and Nazli—with great views of Table Mountain for company. (Website)
Must Do: Koeksisters
South Africa’s alternative to the Indian gulab jamun, Koeksisters (pronounced ‘cook-sisters’) are a local Cape Town delicacy. Two versions of this sweet treat exist, each from very different cultures; the Dutch or Afrikaner version is fried until golden and crispy and then bathed in a sugar syrup, while the Malay version is cake-like—thanks to the addition of yeast—and spiced with cinnamon, aniseed, cardamom and ginger, finished off with hot syrup and dusted with desiccated coconut. These syrupy snacks can now be found in popular chain stores, like Woolworths (Website). However, if you’re in search of the authentic version, make your way to Arpin Koeksisters—a family-run joint selling freshly-made Koeksisters six days a week in the parking lot near the McDonald’s at N1 City. Be sure to reach there early—the Arpins set up at 11am but they’re very popular around the area and sell out quickly.
Johannesburg to the Dolphin Coast
Vibrant, bustling Johannesburg is roughly 600km from KwaZulu-Natal’s Dolphin Coast. Celebrated for its tropical climate, beautiful beaches and all-round relaxed coastal feel, Durban is a popular haunt not only for South Africans looking to escape the harsh Highveld winters, but also for international travellers who come for an unforgettable surfing experience and dolphin-spotting. While travellers between the two cities have the option of an hour-long flight, many opt for the six-hour drive, taking a detour across the Natal Midlands—an area reminiscent of English countryside.
Hartford House
The stars of this award-winning restaurant are the fresh, seasonal ingredients—locally sourced and beautifully presented. Diners have the option of either a two or three-course lunch, or the tasting menu consisting of five courses with the option of a wine pairing. Go prepared for a long and leisurely meal in the beautiful dining room. (Website)
Bunny Chow
This iconic street food is the poster child for humble beginnings. Although the exact origins of this dish are disputed, one version suggests that it started out as an expedient way for Indian workers to transport their curry lunches to the fields. The modern version includes soft, yielding loaves of white bread which are hollowed out, filled with the curry of choice and served with a side order of grated carrot, a tomato and onion salsa. A meal once reserved for Indians, the bunny chow has now transcended cultural boundaries to become one of South Africa’s most recognisable street foods. Best served at the Britannia Hotel (Website) and Hollywoodbets (Website) outlets at Corner Linze and De Mazenod Road.
9th Avenue Bistro
After working in prestigious establishments all around the world, Graham and Gina Neilson decided to return to their hometown of Durban to start 9th Avenue Bistro, after which there was no looking back. Consistently good service and delicious food are the two things this Durban favourite has gotten right since its opening. With dishes like the smoked tomato, fennel and sweetcorn risotto, served with basil pesto and tempura green onions or the ever-popular and decadent char-grilled steak, served with duck fat chips, grilled mushroom, a complex café de Paris butter and a spicy peppercorn sauce, there’s no points for guessing why it’s so popular. (Website)Teatime
Much like the way it happened in India, the tradition of teatime—like cricket—was introduced by the English during the days of colonisation. Fast forward a few decades later and high tea is now a staple offering by most South Africa hotels. Traditional items like the cucumber sandwich are served with local additions, like the milk tart and rooibos tea—a herbal tea indigenous to South Africa and known for its health properties. For a proper South African teatime experience, try Durban’s Oyster Box (Website), the Belmond Mount Nelson (Website) in Cape Town and Jozi’s 54 on Bath (Website)
Game Drive: The Panorama Route
Africa’s equivalent to New York, Johannesburg is its most vibrant city. Home to corporate South Africa, this economic hub attracts migrants from the rest of the country and across Africa, all seeking better opportunities. This diversity also exists in the melting pot of flavours found in the city’s eclectic neighbourhoods. The Kruger National Park is located 500km northeast of Johannesburg—be prepared for majestic scenes en route; with names like ‘God’s Window’ and ‘Wonder View’, there’s no surprise it’s called the Panorama Route.
Roots at Forum Homini
Despite popular belief, Johannesburg is more than just a connection point to Cape Town. The Sterkfontein Caves—an hour’s drive from Johannesburg—is a World Heritage Site famous for fossil finds, some of which are over three million years old. The caves are also opportunely located minutes away from Roots, which boasts a delightful six-course Sunday lunch menu, as well as a wine-pairing option. The menu changes seasonally and provided you arrive on time, you can comfortably work through the meal without feeling rushed. Each offering provides a wonderful taste of South African cuisine. (Website)
Must Do: Local Markets
Markets have taken off in a big way in South Africa. However, they are not the quaint bazaars with ladies selling homemade jams that you may expect; markets like Neighbourgoods (Website)—in Johannesburg’s revived Braamfontein district—and Arts on Main (Website)—in the city’s Central Business District—have redefined the food and social scene in South Africa’s major urban cities. What you are likely to find is craft beer, Paella and wood-fired pizzas. But that isn’t all; both these concepts are about people from all walks of life coming together and fostering cultural exchange, creating a close-knit community in the process.
Dosa Hut
Heralded as the bargain Mecca of Johannesburg, Fordsburg is a historic Jozi suburb and has been welcoming locals and tourists into its spice shops, markets and curry houses for decades. Amidst the pandemonium with which it is inextricably linked, is Dosa Hut, a South Indian restaurant specialising in Kerala-style dishes and of course, all kinds of dosas. Other favourites include Chicken 65, which tastes best mopped up with Kerala parathas. (+27 11 492 1456)
Grillhouse
There’s no better place to sample one of South Africa’s most famous exports—steak—than the Grillhouse. This Johannesburg institution also offers an array of Cuban cigars and an extensive list of South African wines. If wine is not your thing, you could even try any one of their single malt whiskies from the extensive list on offer. (Website)
The Wolfpack
Despite their best intentions, many burger joints are woefully disappointing when it comes to vegetarian offerings. Located in Johannesburg’s trendy Parkhurst, The Wolfpack promises and delivers. The two vegetarian options on the menu—an Asian infused halloumi fritter burger and the vegan burger with baby spinach, hummus, Melanzane and gremolata—are substantial in both flavour and size. Experimental non-vegetarians can try the gourmet ostrich burger served on vetkoek—traditional South African bread—with watercress, baby spinach, rocket, blueberry reduction, avocado, toasted almonds and feta dressing. (Website)
Harries Pancakes, Graskop
This charming pancake shop is the perfect stopover on the way to Kruger National Park. The menu is varied and both the savoury and sweet pancakes are winners. Harries has also attracted many international fans, with people raving about the uniquely South African, Malay-styled babotie pancakes, as well as the milk tart custard version. (Website)
Must Do: Local Fast Food
A trip to South Africa isn’t complete without sampling local fast food versions. These two home-grown establishments have established such a following over the years that they can now be found abroad as well. For quick and spicy food, try the flame-grilled peri peri chicken from Nando’s (Website). Tashas (Website) offers a more upmarket alternative; the bistro-style food here never disappoints.