Why go
Germany’s fourth-largest city was founded by the Romans in 38BC and this heritage is still in clear evidence across the city. It also houses one of Germany’s most popular tourist attractions – the fabulous gothic cathedral.
A cosmopolitan hub, medieval churches sit happily alongside post-modern buildings and pop-up modern art galleries. Also known as the gay and lesbian capital of Germany, and is well known for its liberal, open-minded attitude and sense of fun.
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What to do
A trip to the masterfully gothic Dom, which survived bombing in the World War II and still dominates the Cologne skyline, is an absolute must.
If you’re feeling particularly energetic you can climb the 533 stairs to the top of the cathedral’s South Tower for stunning views across the whole city.
For a more relaxing introduction to the city, hop on a Rhine river cruise and enjoy the vista over an ice-cold Kölsch beer. Or, get a stunning bird’s eye view of the city from the aerial tramway, which crosses the river.
There are heaps of museums to suit every taste, from the Römisch-Germanisches Museum, which explores the city’s Roman heritage, to a very strong showing of art and design museums and galleries (from modern art at the famous Museum Ludwig to decorative arts at the Museum für Angewandte Kunst).
Where to stay
With over 250 hotels to choose from, there’s something to suit all tastes and budgets in Cologne. Indulge in the opulence of the five-star Excelsior Hotel Ernst or take your pick from other top chain hotels, like the Hyatt Regency, the Radisson Blu or the Cologne Marriott.
For something more design-led, the super-stylish Art’otel is a lovely surprise and, if you prefer your accommodation a little more bijoux, try the 25-room Burns Art Cologne art hotel or the modern 54-room Hopper Hotel St Antonius, housed in a former chapel. For a more purse-friendly design option, the MotelOne chain is always a good bet and there are two locations to choose from in the city.
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Where to eat
There are several high-end Michelin-starred restaurants (Le Moissonnier, MaiBeck, Taku, Hanse Stube), but for a real taste of authentic German cuisine opt for a Gaststätte (make a reservation to enjoy the oversized schnitzel at Gaststätte bei Oma Kleinmann) or a typical Brauerei, many of which have idyllic beer gardens. When you need a break from sightseeing there are heaps of delightful little cafés (try Café Reichard just outside the cathedral) where you can enjoy a mouth-watering pastry or cake with a large milky coffee.
For healthy, reasonably priced vegetarian food, the self-service Cologne institution that is Osho’s Place is still a good bet. Don’t forget the little Imbiss, or stand-up snack bars, scattered around the city, for a cheap snack and a glimpse of real Cologne life. Join the locals supping a beer with a freshly baked pretzel (brezel) or a soft onion-infused potato fritter (reibekuchen) when the weather turns colder.
Getting around
For travelling around the city, the tram (S-Bahn) and the underground (U-Bahn) are reasonably priced and fairly easy to navigate. When you buy a ticket don’t forget to time stamp it in one of the little machines to validate it or you could face an on-the-spot fine.
If you’re staying in the city centre, most places are easily accessible on foot. For inter-city travel, you can choose from high-speed (and higher-priced) trains and local regional trains from the main city station. Posters on the main concourse helpfully indicate the departure platforms and times for all the trains.
When to go
In the summer visitors can enjoy the river, the balmy temperatures and the beer gardens, but Christmas in Cologne is also rather special. The Cologne Christmas market is certainly much busier these days but it’s still a wonderful place to soak up the atmosphere and sip on a mulled wine while stocking up on seasonal baubles.
If you want to experience the full-on craziness that is the Cologne Carnival, then February is the time to come (but beware that prices are higher and accommodation books up very quickly).
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Three things we like
The food: from the seemingly infinite varieties of tasty sausages and every possible variation on the potato to freshly baked pastries, mouth-watering cakes and savoury pretzels.
You can’t go to Germany and not have some (a lot of) beer. The locally brewed pale Kölsch beer is a must (they insist it tastes best in the tiny 0.2l glasses it’s served in) but do try a wheat (Weizenbier) or dark beer. Be careful with the super-strong Doppelbock, which can be up to 12%!
The relaxed and down-to-earth atmosphere. Despite Germany’s reputation for being rather brisk, the Kölner themselves are warm and open-minded and tend to relish the opportunity to show off their usually excellent English.
Something we don’t
The infiltration of American coffee chains. It may be tempting to opt for the known quantity of Starbucks and its ilk, but the many authentic German cafés offer far more delicious coffee at a fraction of the price and with warm, friendly service as par for the course. Beware of tourist traps in the Altstadt, though.
Don’t miss
The Cathedral is, of course, a must – get a different perspective from a boat trip along the River Rhine.
Cross the river along the Hohenzollern ‘padlock’ Bridge (couples attach them to ensure their love lasts, then throw the key away) to see another side of Cologne and the beautiful parkland of the Rheinpark park.
Exploring the nooks and crannies of the labyrinthine Old Town – look out for some of the Cologne originals as you wander around, especially the legendary figures of Tünnes and Schäl. If you rub the huge nose of the former, it is said that you will get a wish and by rubbing his shoes, you’ll become very rich.
High50 insider tips
In summer, take a break from the tourists and enjoy a riverside walk and a beer in the surroundings of the former lido at Riehler Freibad.
Soak up the atmosphere and listen to jazz for free on Saturday evenings (from around 11pm) in the restaurant in the Stadtgarten
If you have time, leave the city and head to nearby Wuppertal (thirty minutes on the train) for a trip on the 12-metre-high suspension railway.
Travelling with family?
No problem. It’s a tourist and family-friendly city and there’s plenty to keep the young and the young-at-heart equally well entertained.
Need to know
Average flight time: London to Bonn or Düsseldorf is around one hour twenty minutes.
Eurostar also runs from London to Cologne in around 5 hours (change at Brussels).
Timezone is one hour ahead of the UK (GMT +1).
The currency is the Euro.
Service is sometimes included, but it’s customary to round up by around ten per-cent.
Two-pin European sockets are the norm, so take an adaptor.
The weather is quite similar to the UK, but hotter in summer, so don’t forget to pack some sunscreen.