Leigh Campbell is officially the Beauty Director at Cosmopolitan Magazine, and Editor at The Daily Coverage, the website she pens on all other areas of her life that she finds interesting from travel to weddings (she is a bride-to-be!). Unofficially, Leigh is popularly known as the overwhelmingly witty, interesting and baby goat loving LEGEND. Leigh lives life to the absolute extent to which is offers itself up to her and is dead-set awesome. So awesome, in fact, that she just made me say ‘dead set’. Having spent three months (!) living in Hvar, Leigh is over qualified to give us an insight. In usual Leigh style, she has gone above and beyond, sharing every detail. I am so thrilled to share her insights into Hvar here and I can NOT wait to follow in her fabulous foot steps. Only thing missing, Leigh – where are the baby goats…? xxxH
In Leigh’s own words;
Stay
The Amfora
One of only two hotels on the island, its large pool offers a welcome change from the ocean (which can be mildly annoying to get in and out of as there are no sand beaches). Or, use Air BnB to find a private residence to feel more like a local.
Secret
Hula Hula is the famous beach club party destination, though Bonj Les Bains offers sun beds and cabanas in a class of its own (read: no cocktail jugs and messy revelers).
Shop
You don’t go to Hvar to shop. There is three or four boutiques on the island, all quite tacky and overpriced. I lived in Hvar for three months and didn’t buy one thing; I’d catch the ferry to Split to shop, instead.
See
Take a walk up to the lookout for a 360 degree view of the island and surrounding seas.
Eat
Passarola serves a truffle pasta that I still dream about to this day. On my first visit we sat at the very table Beyonce and Jay-Z dined at the week prior (and I dined there a dozen times during my stay, its that good). I suggest making a reservation during peak season.
But wait.. for the keen travellers like me, there’s more!
STAY
The Amfora
There are only two hotels on the island, the largest of which is The Amfora.
We dubbed it ‘SeaWorld Nara Resort’ as it has a large pool and slide etc. While it is a little tacky, I stayed there for a week here and there as I enjoyed the access to room service, Wi-Fi, English television and news, swimming in the pool and poolside drinks etc.
The Adriana
Owned by the same people as The Amfora, the Adriana is smaller and more boutique. You still have access to the Amfora pool and facilities, but they are a 5-10 minute walk. The Adriana is located above Carpe Diem at the port, so can be noisy. Rooms are cool and arty, bathrooms are strange and futuristic/space-like.
The Riva
Same people. This is again a boutique hotel and rooms are tiny but very cool. It’s above BB Club (the best bar on the island), also on the port.
CLUBS
Hula Hula
Hula Hula is the most famous sunbaking spot and beach bar. It’s a 10-15 minute walk from port.
Lay out and sunbake, then start drinking in the arvo. At sunset it turns into a full on party.
Hula Hula’s restaurant in called Bubba Gumps. Standard food, club sandwiches etc. The service is terribly slow, but you’re not in a rush so don’t let it stress you.
Carpe Diem
You have two Carpe Diem’s; the ‘holding pen’ at the port, where you drink while you wait for Carpe Diem Beach to open. Carpe Diem port is small and always crammed, but fun. To the right you book full tables and have bottle service, to the left it’s by the drink at the bar. Be mindful if you get bottle service that it shuts quite early when Beach opens. We were stuck with a near full bottle quite a few times and you can’t take to Beach with you. Boats to Carpe Diem Beach start running about 1am. Its 200k ($30) to get in and there’s no ATM or credit on the Beach, so take cash.
BB Club
BB is next to Carpe Diem Port and is my fave bar on the island. Generally a little less crazy that CD (but still busy), the music is better and I just liked it more. I went there most nights.
Kiva
Kiva is the ‘uni bar’ on the island. It’s generally a younger crowd but is really fun. Great old school music and you get those huge drinks with millions of straws. You will have a headache after Kiva.
Veranda
Veranda is a bar/nightclub up on the hillside. It was closed by the tax department the entire time I was there last year, so can’t comment. Seeing as Croatia has now become part of the EU, they are being scrutinised for years of dodgy work. I fear a few places will close and open because of this.
Pink Champagne
Previously a strip club, this is now a nightclub.Right next to the church, there’s a small door with a pink velvet curtain. You enter into a huge dock lift with velvet walls and day beds. I thought this was the club! It takes you down to the nightclub. It’s pretty full on, but it’s where everyone goes after BB closes. I had fun there.
Bonj Les Bains
We sun-baked here days we were feeling rich. It winds up being a couple hundred Aussie bucks each for a day bed and lunch and drinks there. But worth it. You get your own private dressing room and attentive staff. Upstairs is the proper restaurant. Best coffee on the island.
Splash/Momo
The restaurant as part of Amfora beach (outside the hotel), they have okay club sandwiches etc. and it’s easy to swim off the jetty here.
BE CAREFUL swimming in Hvar. There’s no sand, so make sure you go in off designated ladders, not on the rocks. I learnt the hard way by stepping on a sea urchin my first day and had to have it cut out of my foot.
At the marina at Splash/Momo there’s a boat hire company. I’d recommend these guys for any day trips and to go to the caves. If you can, ask for a skipper called Hjvore (he-voy-er). He’s who I lived with and is gorgeous. He will look after you.
Falko
Falko is the ‘locals’ bar/day bed place and where I spent 70% of my days. 10 minutes’ walk past Hula Hula, it’s as far as you can go to the edge of the island. You lay in hammocks or in bean bags all day and listen to Bob Marley. Best Greek salads, and only decent Wi-Fi on the whole island! Slow service but the men and so nice and funny.
Passarola
This is my fave restaurant. It’s where Bey and Jay-Z eat when they bring their yacht in. The truffle pasta is beyond amazing. Call and book as it gets busy.
Palmizana Beach
Palmizana beach is 15 minutes by speed boat away. It’s a beach bar and restaurant and is fab. not many day beds there so book ahead, or grab a spot on the rocks. The masseuse is so cheap and SO GOOD! I would have two a day!
Opposite Palmizana
If you’re looking out away from Palmizana to the right you’ll see a white table clothed restaurant up on the hill with timber railings. Go there for lunch or dinner. Heaven!
OTHER
Vis and the green and blue caves
Hire a boat and a skipper and take a day trip. The green and blue caves are unreal, you have to go! If you have a cool skipper he will let you jump off your boat when in the caves. Then go to Vis for lunch at a domestic restaurant for wine and olive oil and fish. Croatian wine is full on. They drink it half wine half soda water and its heaven.
Amenities and the like
The supermarket is called The Konzum. I’d go there for bottled water and snacks etc. Just outside is the market; full of fresh fruit and vegies, meats and cheeses that are locally grown and organic, naturally. Tastes better than any fruit we have here (though there are lots of bees). The cheese man is adorable, he will give you more free cheese than you can eat, so I’d always buy from him. Also at the market you’ll find ‘black market’ olive oil. It’s in label-less Sprite bottles and is so dark and rich, its heaven. The market is worth a visit as some of the hotel food can be average. The pharmacy is called Kosmo and has basics like shampoo and conditioner, makeup and the like, should you need. Shopping on the island is hit and miss; there’s a few overpriced boutiques full of euro labels.
The Ferry
The ferry to and from Spilt always sells out at 7am the day prior, so ensure you get up very early the day before you’re leaving. The ride only takes about an hour. You can’t book this in advance, it’s crazy. If you miss it you need to get a bus to Stari Grad and go from there, or pay a water taxi as I once had to (400 euro). I know this as I got the ferry several times (an hour each way) to go to the mainland for McDonalds. If you are overnighting in Split and need to know where to stay, let me know. A day in Split is more than enough.
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Follow Leigh on instagram @leighacampbell or read her funny, intelligent, inspiring and insightful blog at The Daily Coverage. xH