The delhi at Excelsior with its pretty views
Louise Liebenberg discovers a place of legends where thoroughbred wines are born
THERE is a special hilltop spot at Excelsior Wine Estate in the Western Cape from where you really do believe you can see the whole wide world – or the wine-making part of it, at least!
Estate after estate lies stretched before you in one vast and brilliant band nourished by the Breede River that gives life to the vines.
The gables of historic farmhouses glisten in the early winter sun and you find yourself surprised, almost startled, to discover the leaves of every grape varietal in front of you have their own uniquely vivid autumnal shade.
With winter nipping at our heels my husband and I recently hit the road to the Breede River Valley for a weekend away with a difference.
Our interest in Excelsior was piqued by wine fundi Olga Hafner, of Meridian Wines, who last month invited us to a tasting in the Bay following the Excelsior brand’s recent inclusion as part of the Meridian stable.
I must confess at this point however that, whenever we reach Robertson and Bonnievale – pretty as they are – it is usually precisely when we are at our most travelweary and concerned mainly with closing the final gap on the journey to Cape Town.
But this time around we pulled in at the historic four-star Excelsior Manor Guesthouse about 15km outside Robertson and very soon discovered it to be an ideal location from which to explore the stunningly beautiful Robertson wine valley.
Surrounded by majestic mountains, this region is about one and a half hours’ drive from Cape Town and in the heart of Route 62 – the longest wine route in the country and one of the longest in the world.
Excelsior’s sprawling Cape Dutch Revival manor house, once a proud family home and “ostrich feather palace”, was lovingly restored some years ago and now offers elegant comfort coupled with warm country hospitality.
Staff members Tanya Swiegers and Hannes Spangenberg show how to create your very own blend
Imposing as this nine-bedroom mansion might sound, it’s not one of those fancy pants places where the rates are off-the-charts expensive or you’ll be frowned upon if you don’t wear your designer duds to dinner.
It is exactly this down-to-earth authenticity that makes the entire area so appealing. These are working wine farms, many of which are of course earning international accolades for their products, and yet they still have an honest, laid-back “plaasgevoel” that some of the slicker estates on South Africa’s more established wine routes have long since lost.
We ensconced ourselves in our roomy and comfortable Cape Dutch styled bedroom and soon felt all the city stresses melt away.
Since summer was a distant memory there was little temptation to dwell beside the deep blue swimming pool situated on an elevated deck on the southern side of the house, blissful as it must undoubtedly be when the weather is fine. But, having spent most of the day on the road from Port Elizabeth, I was happy to have a languid lavender soak in the huge freestanding bath in our suite before we headed down for a very pleasant dinner of grilled, stuffed chicken with hearty veg and (even heartier) helpings of estate wine, all faultlessly served by our waiter, James.
The next morning, after a scrummy breakfast that also included the most marvellous freshly squeezed naartjie juice from Excelsior’s own orchards, affable brand manager Hannes Spangenberg took us on a merry jaunt around the estate.
We hitched a ride in the farm bakkie, but for the more adventurous, there’s a nifty golf cart from which to enjoy the vineyards and breathtaking views of the Langeberg Mountains. You could also hop on a mountain bike (these are available for guests’ use) or take an exhilarating early- morning jog through the vines, as some folks have been known to do.
The estate has two other attractions that have become a hit with visitors from all over the Cape. The first is its deli, Graze, where light meals and cakes are served and treats like locally grown olives and honey from the farm are sold.
The other must-visit spot is Excelsior’s tasting room, a quaint wooden structure with a deck overlooking a dam abundant with birdlife and fish.
Here, visitors may do a winetasting and they may even blend, bottle and label their very own creations. Of course we did both, our tasting personally led by the charming Peter de Wet, a member of the iconic De Wet family that have farmed Excelsior for five generations. Peter, who co-owns the estate with his father, Freddie, was looking after his three young ‘uns – Emily, Matthew and Caitlyn – as his wife, Amanda, was away in Cape Town. These darlings were completely disarming and you imagine their rosy cheeks, boisterous sense of adventure and wide-eyed wonder at everything around them are largely the result of their wonderfully wholesome surroundings.
Peter shared with us some of Excelsior’s fascinating history, from the early years when the De Wets capitalised on the ostrich feather boom to the inevitable demise of that golden era, when they had the foresight to turn their attention to horses and wine.
Though Excelsior is no longer a stud farm (this part of the family legacy continues at nearby Arabella, owned by Freddie’s brother Stephen) it is to this day associated with champion horses that were bred here. Legendary names like Gondolier and Evanthius continue to live on in their reserve wines and also in the manor house, where some of the suites are named after them.
Grapes are now the most important crop on the farm, with 220 hectares planted with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, along with small plantings of blending cultivars such as Petit Verdot and Viognier.
And Excelsior has found its place in the sun, exporting wine to more than 20 countries and raking in some enviable awards along the way.
Our weekend in the Breede River Valley made us hungry for more and we are now planning a trip for later in the year so we can explore some more.
Excelsior Wine Estate is on the R317. Call them on 023615 2050 or visit www.excelsior.co.za.
Current rates for a manor house suite start at R750 per person sharing, breakfast included.
The tasting room where estate wines may be sampled
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