by Ryan Hoover
RH Custom Guns, Fredericksburg, TX
Since the 1960’s, modern replicas of historic 19th century firearms have been pouring into the hands of American gun owners. These owners range from collectors to reenactors and movie prop houses to competition cowboy action shooters and beyond. Having run a shop that is responsible for most of the warranty repairs, action work and customization for one of the biggest importers of these weapons, I have become intimately familiar with the ins and outs of these firearms. What I would like to do is try to explain, from my point of view, the pros and cons of these interesting guns, some common problems encountered and some easy solutions to bring these Italian guns up to our American standards.
There are many similarities between these replicas and their original counterparts. Indeed, many of the replica guns available were made using specs taken from original guns. There is, however, one main difference that sets the originals apart from the replicas – namely, handwork.
In the mid to late 19th century, all firearms were hand-fitted to some degree. Since then, labor costs have risen dramatically and mass-production techniques have advanced far. This is great for producing many things but not always replica firearms. When most of these guns were designed, hand-fitting was the norm and the designers could create designs knowing that each part would receive at least some personal attention. Today, that kind of hand fitting is impossible at a production level because it just isn’t cost effective.
So, what’s the good news? Well, these production techniques have made good guns available at a reasonable cost to American gun owners. Also, the lack of hand fitting is usually the only problem encountered. The materials used in these guns are usually of a much higher quality than the originals and the fit and finish are usually acceptable to our American tastes, especially for the price. If you know the right things to look out for and have a knowledgeable gunsmith give your replicas a little TLC, these guns can be a joy to own and shoot.
Before we get started, let me say that I am going to assume that the reader is familiar with the nomenclature of these guns. Some of the things I will try to describe are harder to put into words than they are to demonstrate. Where possible, I have included pictures but, if the reader still has questions, feel free to email me at ryan@rhcustomguns.com or comment below.
I have only included guns that are manufactured in Italy at this time and only the most common ones, at that. If I missed something, please let me know and I can start collecting topics for part two. I have also not included any shotguns but I may in another article.
Ok, let’s get to it!
Revolvers
There are three major classes of revolvers in production from firms like Uberti, Pietta and others today: cartridge revolvers, conversion revolvers and black powder revolvers. The most famous of the cartridge revolvers is the Single Action Army but also includes the 1875 and 1890 Remington as well as the Schofield types and Open Tops. Black powder revolvers include the 1860 Army and 1851 Navy, among others. Conversion revolvers are black powder revolvers that were converted to shoot cartridges. The most abundant are the Richards-Mason conversions and the 1858 Remington conversion.
You can see the difference between factory springs and aftermarket springs. The factory springs are much thicker and can cause galling.
The most common problem these guns (and most replicas) suffer from is springs that are too strong. In an effort to ensure that the gun will go bang every time, manufacturers all across the gun world use springs that are usually a bit too heavy. This is doubly true of replicas and especially conversions and black powder guns. The major problem with this is that spring pressure that is too strong can cause galling. The parts are pressed so hard against each other under spring tension that accelerated wearing occurs. Replacing the sear/bolt spring and the hammer spring will increase the longevity of the gun and is an easy upgrade.
One caution about changing springs in these revolvers: it can change the timing of the gun. Be sure that the new springs don’t cause the bolt to rise too early or late.
Here you can see the damage too-strong springs can do. Bolt legs being too strong ruined these cams and too-strong sear and bolt springs caused the trigger to wear the hammer notches.
Another spring that can cause problems is the spring that is the legs of the bolt. These legs are squeezed between the cam on the hammer and the frame every time the gun is cocked and, if the spring is too heavy, it can really wear down the cam on the hammer quickly. On top of this, most Italians bevel the leg of the bolt that rides on the cam in exactly the wrong spot; leaving a sharp edge that cuts into the cam even further. Re-contouring this leg is something that is standard when doing an action job to these revolvers.
Single Action Army guns really are pretty worry free except for the odd fluke problem that is usually covered under warranty if you catch it during the warranty period. Some of the older imports do suffer from soft parts and way, way, way too heavy springs so be sure to have a good gunsmith inspect any used guns you are planning on buying. They can usually be turned into good shooters but you should know if you are going to have to put another $100 into a used gun before you buy it. Also, some of these older guns, especially Armi San Marco guns, can have parts that are difficult to obtain.
Here’s what can happen when all of the springs are too strong. This bolt has been galled to death!
One thing I will say about replica Single Action Army (SAA) types is beware the base pin safety! In order to incorporate some sort of safety on these guns, someone decided that the base pin should be altered to have two grooves instead of one – like the original Colts had. What this means is that if you push the base pin all the way in until it stops, it protrudes out the back of the frame, blocking the hammer from falling far enough to strike the primer. In practice, what happens is someone attempts to fire or dry fires the gun with the base pin in the safety position. They remain oblivious as to why the gun isn’t going off, meanwhile the hammer continues to bash away at the base pin, driving it into the base pin latch or retaining screw. This raises a burr on the base pin in between the two grooves and makes it impossible to remove without completely disassembling the gun. Either learn how to use the safety or grind the back of the pin down so you can push the pin all the way in. Also, check any gun you buy, new or used, to see if the base pin can be removed and for burrs.
This is what most of the replica base pins for SAA type revolvers look like. The top groove is the safety position. If you push your base pin in to this point, be sure not to ever try to fire or dry fire the gun.
You can tell that this conversion revolver has started throwing by the burrs raised on the edge of the bolt notch in the cylinder. This one was caught in time and fixed but it wouldn’t have been long before this cylinder was ruined.
Base pins can get stuck for other reasons, too. A good tool for any single action owner to have is a base pin puller. These can be purchased from Brownell’s and are invaluable tools. Don’t use pliers on your base pins!
Cowboy action shooting is a very popular gun-game and some of these revolvers can be used to great effect in competition provided they are properly tuned. Single Action Army types are great and action work is a piece of cake. They are the first choice of most top competitors. One problem I do run into, though, is the shooter who really likes the old-time look of the conversions and Open Top (OT) revolvers and wants to use them to compete. They take their gun to the range and see another shooter who is shooting his SAA by cocking it with his off hand thumb quickly and moving very fast. Our shooter then tries to shoot his conversion the same way, the gun starts over-rotating (throwing by) and he/she ruins the cylinder.
Because of the radiused bottom of the frame and the smaller diameter of the cylinder, there isn’t as much depth in the bolt notches on the cylinder of conversions and OT revolvers as on the SAA’s. This means the bolt is really slamming into a very small notch when it is cocked fast and, sooner or later, the bolt skips over that notch, leaving a little burr or divot. Do this enough times (like 3 or 4) and the notch can be ruined. It’s cheaper to buy and have a new cylinder installed than it is to repair cylinder notches.
By the way, any revolver that starts throwing by should be put aside immediately until it can be repaired. It’s cheaper to adjust the timing than it is to buy a new cylinder.
This is the correct position to set the wedge if the gun is properly timed. The groove in the wedge is out as far as possible and the edge is bearing against the retaining screw.
Another issue that plagues the conversion/OT guns is how finicky they can be to time correctly. Because the barrel is separate from the frame and is held on by a wedge, the fit of the cylinder in the frame is variable depending on how far the wedge is inserted. This means that the barrel/cylinder gap can change, the angle that the hand engages the ratchets on the cylinder can change and how much end shake the cylinder has can change. All of these variables add up and can be frustrating so I’ll give you a tip about setting your wedge. On the conversion, set the wedge so that it is bearing against screw in the barrel that prevents it from falling out. If you don’t, the wedge will work its way out to this point anyway while you shoot, possibly changing how the cylinder rotates or how large the BBL/Cyl gap is. On black powder revolvers, set the wedge so the hooked portion of the wedge spring is bearing against the barrel.
Lever Action Rifles
Like the revolvers, the major problem that replica lever guns suffer from is springs that are too strong. A too-strong spring on the hammer can cause the gun to be difficult to work and contributes to wear on the sear surfaces on the hammer and the trigger. The same problem with the carrier lifter and lever springs can cause wear on the camming surfaces of those parts. I have seen levers and lifters that were severely worn where the spring rides.
Because the lever and carrier lifter springs are so heavy, the screws that secure them in the gun can be extremely difficult to remove unless you know a simple trick. After you have the side plates off of the gun, use a screwdriver to pry the springs off of the lever and carrier lifter. This relieves much of the pressure on the spring and unscrewing them becomes much easier. If you still have a hard time, take the lever and lifter out, push the spring into the middle of the receiver to further release some pressure and try again.
You can clearly see the difference between and aftermarket wire-type lever spring (top) and the stock lever spring that comes in the gun. Stock springs can be re-contoured to function properly with less tension.
This is easier done on an 1873 or 1876 than an 1866 or 1860 Henry. On the ’66 and the Henry, the lever/lifter screw also holds the side plates on. On the ’66 you can unscrew the lever screw and the right side plate will come off so you can reach in and pry the springs off. On the Henry, you have to tap the screw out in order to slide the side plates off.
When you reassemble the ’66 or the Henry, turn the screws into the springs just enough to hold them in the gun while you reassemble the side plates You can tighten the screws from the bottom of the receiver after the gun is assembled. You almost certainly will not have to tighten them down as tight as they can go. In fact, a good and simple way to make the Winchester style lever guns run better is to loosen the tension on the carrier lifter, lever and hammer springs. Better yet, replace them with aftermarket springs.
Use a screwdriver to pry the lever and carrier lifter springs off of their respective parts before trying to unscrew them.
The spring that moves the lever safety on the 1873 and 1876 is also notoriously over-strong. Wire spring replacements are available to buy. If you are so inclined, they are easily made as well. Many people remove the safety entirely. The 1866 and the Henry lack these safeties so I don’t see anything wrong with this, save the liability issue for the gunsmith.
The great thing about the Winchester toggle-action lever guns is their ability to be short-stroked. Short stroking is when different links and a lifter are installed to shorten the travel required by the lever to operate the gun. Coupled with an action job, this is pretty standard for cowboy competition shooters. It makes the gun feel great and work fast so I like it on ranch guns, too. Unfortunately, there is no commercially available short-stroke kit for the 1876 at this time.
The only 1892 I know of coming from Italy is the one manufactured by Chiappa, formerly known as Armi Sport. These guns are not bad in terms of grade of materials and external cosmetics but they do need some treatment. Basically, for a ’92 to feel good, it needs to be given the hand-work treatment it would have received 100 years ago. The parts should be properly fit and polished and the springs adjusted to work smoothly without being overly strong.
I have also seen a few of the 1886/71 Pedersolli guns coming out of Italy and, though I don’t have much experience with them, I’m really looking forward to getting my hands on a Model 71 in .348 Winchester to refurbish like an original. I’ll report more on that later.
Single Shot Rifles
This is a good example of a poorly fit extractor. This one, a .22 Mag, is obviously too short for the cut out in the barrel as well as not being properly contoured to the chamber. A new extractor will be needed.
The two most common types of single shot rifles I see are Sharps and Winchester 1885 High/Low Wall replicas. These guns are a lot of fun, especially since they lend themselves to caliber conversions so easily. There are a few problems that plague them, mostly minor, but let’s look at what those are.
First, let talk about extraction. All of the falling block guns are designed to extract, not eject. When you drop the block to unload, don’t expect the empty case or unfired round to come shooting out. Some of these rifle extract so forcefully it seems like they do eject and others will only extract enough for you to pull the case out with your fingernail. I know that people who shoot these guns in odd or old calibers prefer the guns that don’t throw the brass on the ground because it makes it easier to hold on to it for reloading. On of the main problems these guns suffer from is improper extractor fit so be sure to have yours looked at if it isn’t extracting or the case is getting stuck under the extractor.
Another problem I see, with the Winchester 1885 types with set triggers in particular, is a failure to fire. This is almost never a head space or firing pin issue but is usually due to our old friend, the too-strong spring.
If the sear spring is too strong, it holds the sear against the hammer so hard that the trigger spring can not overcome it and the sear hits the safety notch on the hammer when the gun is fired, robbing the hammer of most of its energy before it gets to the firing pin. This can be solved by lightening the sear spring or contouring the rear trigger spring to put more pressure on the trigger; usually a little of both need to be done. Also, the safety notch on the hammer usually needs to be re-contoured.
Notice the crack developing on the right side of the stock near the tang? This one wasn’t caused by recoil but by poor packaging for shipment. This is the most likely place for a crack to develop, regardless of the cause. Also, notice the filler screw toward the front of the top tang. If this screw is in too deep it can cause problems with the sear spring.
There is usually a screw in the front of the upper tang that fills the hole the front screw of a tang sight would go in. Either this filler screw or the front tang sight screw itself can actually be screwed too deep and will start putting pressure on the sear spring. If it is too bad, the screw can take so much pressure off the spring that the gun will no longer cock. Be sure to check those screws on your rifle.
The last major thing to look out for on the larger caliber single shots is stock cracking. The wrist of the stock is particularly vulnerable because so much wood must be removed to fit it to the stock. Also, if there are gaps in the stock, one spot may be taking up most of the recoil and that is just asking to crack under recoil. If your stock has gaps, consider having it re-stocked or at least bedded to close those gaps.
So, now all you would-be cowboys out there have a brief overview of some of the major issues with these replica guns. What I’ve included in this article is based on the most common problem I see in my shop; where hundreds of cowboy guns come through each year. If you take one thing away from this let it be that modern cowboy replica guns need a little TLC to bring them up to our American standards but, once that is done, they can be great guns.
Good shooting!
Ryan Hoover is the owner/operator of RH Custom Guns in Fredericksburg, TX. He can be reached at ryan@rhcustomguns.com or at his website, www.rhcustomguns.com