Lamberto Frescobaldi, Olivier Flosse, Zack Kameron, Christian Lacombe, and Marco Fusato with the 27-liter Giramonte from Frescobaldi at A Vocé Columbus Circle. (image via)
On any night, French-trained sommelier Olivier Flosse and his team run figure eights around the dining room of A Vocé Columbus Circle, uncorking bottles of prosecco and pinot grigio as they whiz from table to table. But, as Flosse explains, not all wines are created equal—especially when it comes to the contemporary Italian restaurant’s large format wine program. "Large format and half bottles of wines are an important part of sexy wines lists," says Flosse. These large bottles, which go far beyond jeroboam (up to 27 liters!), can aid the aging process and help the grapes develop a more nuanced taste. Not to mention the massive bottles are huge hit with diners. What better way to impress a date than to order a pour from a bottle the size of a toddler?
We spoke with Flosse to get more insight on these weighty wines.
With such an expansive wine selection, how popular is the large format wine program?
OLIVIER FLOSSE: One year, we sold 800 double magnum bottles of one specific wine . . . Our selection of large format offerings has tripled in the last two years, too. We now have 155 different selections of large format bottles, which range in size from magnum to 18 liters [equivalent to 24 bottles of wine].
Any bottles that have been particularly popular?
OF: The 27-liter of Giramonte from Frescobaldi [above]. We had three bottles, and they were the only ones in the world. We sold them all in one night by the glass. It was a hit.
Of A Vocé Columbus Circle's 2,500 bottles of wine, 155 are large format.
Are there advantages to ordering a large format wine?
OF: Most of the time, ordering a large format is less expensive than a regular bottle from the same winery and vintage. Plus, the aging process of large format bottles is slower than regular bottles, and it enhances the flavor in a different way.
Are they difficult to pour? How have they been received by diners?
OF: It is very challenging to pour these large bottles table-side, but this is part of the allure and the experience for our guests. As soon as we open a bottle and start pouring it, the other guests in the dining are non-stop snapping photos and videos on their phone, almost like an avalanche. They’re never ending. The guests really love to see these bottles.
Are these large format wines popular in Italy?
OF: Large format bottles are popular in parts of Italy. Unfortunately, some regions cannot make a bigger bottle than a double magnum because of their resources, but we do work with wineries who make large format bottles exclusively for us here at A Voce.