Continuing our coverage of boots, we take up another very traditional style called the Chukka boot. Previously we covered Jodhpur and Chelsea boots, and while the two were similar in some respects, they were also distinctively different. The Chukka boots also share a few similarities with them. In this case, the name ‘ Chukka’ itself is derived from the game of Polo and thus linking them, however superficially, to the Jodhpur boot that was designed specifically for Polo. Upon closer examination, the connections between the two become more perceptible.
How the Chukka Boots Got Their Name
The name ‘Chukka’ is said to be derived from the seven and a half minute Polo playing period called a Chukker or Chukka. The term is itself derived from the Hindi word ‘chukkar’ meaning ‘circle’ or ‘turn’. Because there are different variations of uppers, it is unclear what exactly the original version looked like and how it got its name. One school of thought argues that Chukka boots got their name due to the resemblance to boots worn by Polo players, i.e. Jodhpur boots.
Others believe Chukka boots were actually used to play Polo although there seems to be little evidence to support this theory. Chances are the name was derived from the similarities between the two boots. This is supported by the fact that Chukka boots were sometimes worn by off-duty Polo players who would slip into them after a game as they were more comfortable than riding boots.
Another interesting theory is the Indian use of the word ‘chukkar’, which is also used in the context of taking a leisurely stroll or ‘turn’.
Therefore, it could be entirely possible that the name was derived from the fact that the Polo players preferred to stroll around in these boots after a game rather than in their Polo boots.
Thus, the Chukka boot could be considered a descendant or relative of the polo boot! Whichever theory you may favor, Chukka boots have certain characteristics of their own.
Sanders Chukka Boots with red rubber sole
Chukka Boot Features
Because there are so many varieties, it is not entirely clear what a real Chukka boot is and what is not. However, in studying what shoe historian June Swann had to say about the boots and considering old pictures, a Chukka Boot has the following features:
Buckskin chukka boot
Lace up ankle boots. They reach the ankle and no further.
Two or three lacing eyelets; anything else is not a chukka boot
Traditionally made from calfskin suede leather
Rounded toe-box.
Two parts each made from a single piece of leather.
The quarters are sewn on top of the vamp.
Open lacing.
Thin soles.
Soles traditionally made of leather (crepe rubber soles were later worn with desert boots)
Historically unlined.
Suede chukka boots
History Of The Chukka Boot
Due to their similarities with the Jodhpur boot, their name and the fact that they were worn by off-duty polo players, it is safe to assume that the Chukka boot originated in India among the British army units that played the game and subsequently found its way to the west, much like the Jodhpur boot. The fact that the Chukka boot was first worn in the US in 1924 by the Duke of Windsor, who had previously visited India, played a little Polo and had acquired a few pairs of Chukka boots only adds credence to the story. Subsequently, the Duke wore them regularly, abetting their rise to become a staple in men’s shoe closets in the West. The British army origins are reinforced by the fact that the British army had as standard issue a type of Chukka boot worn in the desert campaign of World War II. These boots were known as Desert boots and had a crepe rubber sole instead of a leather sole. Whatever the precise nature of their origins the Chukka boots were designed to provide both comfort and a certain amount of style, and it was precisely because of these two qualities that they became extremely popular in the 1940s and 1950s. Chukka boots were considered a comfortable alternative to be worn as both casual and dress boots.
1930s Chukka boot with rubber sole that predated Clarks with yellow socks and green trousers
Desert Boots
In 1941, while deployed to Myanmar, Nathan Clark, the great grandson of James Clark (the creator of the shoe company Clarks), noticed the chukka boot variation with crepe soles and sent sketches back home. Originally, they were commissioned as a lightweight and comfortable boot with rubber soles and sand colored leather to be worn by soldiers in their downtime. At the time, the suede uppers and crepe sole were associated with footwear only lower classes would wear, and so the Clarks Desert boot was not launched until 1950. Sixty-three years later, it is probably the most common version of the Chukka boot. Priced between $60 – 150 the Clarks Original Desert Boot is popular with jeans or chinos. Frankly, I doubt the quality is what it used to be, but at that price you can’t ask for more. Because of its popularity, it comes in all kinds of leather and rubber colors or sometimes even fabric. Personally, I prefer elegant lasts with leather soles because the Clarks Desert boot reminds me too much of college, but if you have a more casual style, it might be the right choice for you.
Nathan Clark with his great Clarks Desert Boots on the Left
Chukka boots today
Chukka boots today have become far more versatile than the originals and have been stylized to suit the times. The differences in the finer style details of the boot today determine whether they are right for business or leisure.
Chukka boots now come in various leathers and fabrics. Synthetic fabrics, canvas, suede or faux leather / faux exotic skins Chukkas are suitable for work and casual occasions. Traditional leather Chukkas in brown suede and leather soles are suitable for casual outfits but personally, I also wear them with all kinds of blue suits.
Soles – the thinner the leather soles, the finer the boots, but overall Chukka boots will never be a go-to business shoe. However, they can be worn with suits on occasion. The more casual Desert Boots often have thicker soles and rougher stitching, making them only suitable for casual wear.
Colors – although there are many color variations, Chukka boots should be brown. Personally, I prefer dark brown suede over tan, but each to his own. I also choose a lace color that matches the leather. Less formal Chukka boots often come with contrast stitching on the uppers but personally, I prefer it tone in tone so I can wear it more elegantly with a suit.
Style Advice
Chukka boots or Desert Boots are rather popular today, and there are many manufacturers of casual chukka boots and also bespoke versions of it. Considering the casual nature of the Chukka boot, I would never combine a crepe sole Chukka boot with dress pants or a suit. At the same time, an elegant Chukka boot can be paired like a suede shoe, and looks great with dress pants and suits. For example, I have an elegant pair of St. Crispin Chukka boots in mid brown suede leather that goes very with almost anything I wear. The possibilities of incorporating them into one’s wardrobe are endless. Dress Chukka boots with thin leather soles on an elegant last in brown can be paired with a navy or mid-gray suits and a range of other colors and patterns. For details, please look at our How to Wear Brown Shoes Guide, which also applies to Chukka boots.
Suede Chukka Boots
Suede Chukka boots with crepe soles should only be worn with denim or chinos. Feel free to experiment with colorful and patterned socks. Alternatively, you can go with different suede colors such as blue or beige – the varieties are endless. Paired with an Oxford shirt and jeans or a polo shirt, they make for a good casual outfit. A brown pair goes well with autumnal trouser colors such as green, red and duskier yellows – again, experiment at your heart’s content. For an even more casual weekend look, go for Chukka boots in other materials like canvas. One can combine them with a favorite pair of old jeans and T- Shirt or khakis and a sweater. Stick to slim jeans to create a refined silhouette. The Chukka boot is a versatile boot can be worn in a variety of ways; you can use them to add variety to your wardrobe.
St. Crispin’s Chukka Boots with leather sole & lining
Buying Guide
There is a wide variety of Chukka boots available on the market from an equally wide number of manufacturers. In many cases, boots advertised as Chukka boots do not conform to the classic description of Chukkas. However one can use one’s discretion if you find a pair that may not be true in conventional sense but still suits your needs. Below is a list of a few reputable manufacturers.
Allen Edmonds
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Clarks
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Shoepassion
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Wolverine
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Pediwear
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Carmina
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Crockett & Jones
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Loake
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Frye
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John Spencer
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Red Wing
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Tricker's
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Mezlan
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Sanders
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eBay
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This article is a result of the collaboration between Sven Raphael Schneider & Vikram Nanjappa.
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