When it comes to shaving, I’m about as classic as you can get. I make those quick power shavers, and Gillette gel-strip scrapers look like sissies. I’m old school shave. As Raphael once put it, “this is Vito. This is Brando. This is as authentic as you can get.”
So as men around the world hack at their face, I light an Ernesto Tobacco and Leather Scented Candle from Cire Trudon, pour myself a glass of Scotch and turn on some Miles Davis. For the next 45-minutes, I relax in utter bliss with hot towels and more products, oils, creams and pastes than most women own as I glide a single blade that’s so sharp you can hear it as the hair falls off the skin with a gentle touch.
Since we’ve covered wet shaving in pretty great detail, we thought it was time to do a quick primer on some of our favorite DE safety razor blades on the market today. For many men, choosing the right blade can be a chore and one that’s difficult for the novice wet shaver. Hopefully, this primer will help give you the road map to selecting the right blade for your facial hair. Trust me when I say that no two blades are the same, and it is all about finding the right blade for your beard, and that’s what I am going to help you with in today’s Ultimate Guide To Double Edge Safety Razor Blades.
standard safety razor
Facial Hair
Everyone’s facial hair is different. Some are soft and supple whereas others are coarse and tough to manage. Mine is coarse and strong, so I need a far more aggressive razor and sharper blade to do the trick. Since I primarily use a straight razor to shave, my DE safety razor is a secondary option for a faster shave on days where time is an issue. When I do pull out one of my four DE safety razors, I need a blade that resembles the razor sharp cutting action of my Thiers Issard or Dovo straight razor. That’s why my go-to blade is Feather, but if you don’t have coarse hair like me, Feather might not be your best bet.
If you’ve never used a DE safety razor, you’re going to have a bit of a learning curve. This isn’t like the gel-stripped blades from Gillette where you run little risk of cutting anything, let alone hair on the first pass. This is a high-quality blade that’s sharper than a surgeon’s scalpel. You really need to take your time and select the right razor and blades that are best for your skin and facial hair. Here are a few factors you want to consider when selecting a blade:
– Type of facial hair (soft, coarse, etc.)
– Length of facial hair (do you shave daily, every two days, once a week, etc.)
– Skin type (do you have sensitive skin, acne, rough skin, smooth skin)
Next you need to factor in your products and tools. A good shave is only as good as the products you use. You’ll want to make sure that at the very least you have a high quality pre-shave oil, a good shaving cream or shave soap and a post-shave product like a soothing cream or gel. As you grow your collection, you’ll find that your shave gets easier and more enjoyable with a full range of products. Of course, it’s just as important to make sure you have a high-quality razor like a Merkur or Edwin Jagger. Stay tuned for an upcoming article on the top DE safety razors.
Simply throwing a DE blade onto your safety razor and going to town with an aerosol drug store shave cream is asking to get sliced and diced. You need to make sure you invest in some good quality products. Check out our other shaving guides for more information on some of the best products.
Next you want to have your routine down pat. For me, this is the routine I follow whether I’m shaving with my straight razor or a DE safety razor:
1. Following a hot shower, I immediately apply an herbal infused hot towel to my face.
2. Once the towel is beginning to cool, I apply a pre-shave oil to my beard and neck area.
3. Then, using a shaving brush, I begin apply my shave cream to my face. I have many, but lately I’ve been using the Sandalwood cream by Taylor of Old Bond Street, although, it’s a little potent for some.
4. Once my shave cream is applied, I dip my razor in hot water and begin shaving, making my first pass along the grain. After a first pass, I reapply hot shave cream to my face and take a second pass. This time moving sideways, across the grain. Finally, I re-lather and do a third pass against the grain.
5. As soon as I’ve completed my third pass, I immediately shock my face by applying an ice cold towel to it. This immediately closes up the pores. After I’ve wiped any excess cream from my face, I apply a rose water mist, followed by an after-shave gel and finally a cooling lotion that’s infused with a mixture of eucalyptus and menthol. I let that dry and apply a protective, nourishing gel to my face to keep it smooth. I try and avoid products with alcohol as they tend to dry out your skin, and I only focus on Barber quality brands that aren’t sold at your local drug store. I’ve tried products like Proraso, and I’m not a big fan, but each to his own.
Identifying a DE safety razor blade
While most people will reuse their blades three to five times, I change my blade out after every shave. I find this way I get the closest possible shave, and since you can buy DE blades for such little money, it’s well worth the extra few cents I waste by changing out my blade. Of course, my routine does change sometimes, and often I use different shaving products depending on scent preferences, how smooth my skin is that day and whether my skin feels tight.
One other tip I will offer is that if you have small children, it’s a wise investment to use a razor disposal container for your blades rather than throwing them into the garbage where little fingers could get cut. Not to mention, when you take out the garbage you run the risk of the blade cutting you through the bag. There are many on the market, but I use the Shaving Factory Razor Blade Disposal Case, which holds about six months worth of blades before I have to buy another one. It’s not the most attractive thing, but it’s not like you need to put it out on display.
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The Top Blades
It’s important to remember that a blade is only as good as the razor it’s on. You want to invest in a good quality razor that works well for your skin and hair type but also your experience. Since I predominantly use a straight razor and have coarse hair, I look for a really aggressive razor that allows me to glide the blade down my face with ease. However, if you’re new to wet shaving, prone to acne, have divots in your skin or have soft hair, you’ll probably find that an aggressive razor cuts easily.
Every razor blade is a little different and, for the most part, that’s done on purpose.
While writing this article, I tested out a variety of different blades and although many were great, I still found the best blade for my face was Feather. If you’re in the process of figuring out which blade works best for you, do what I did in the beginning and purchase a sampler pack. They come in a variety of sizes and usually include a selection of different blades so you can figure out what works best for you.
The following blades were tested by me either when I began shaving with a DE safety razor or specifically for this article:
BRAND
AVERAGE PRICE
BLADE COUNT
PRICE PER BLADE
Feather
$15
50
$0.30
Derby
$10
100
$0.10
Astra
$10
100
$0.10
Gillette
$21
100
$0.21
BIC
$15
100
$0.15
BlueBird
$8
100
$0.08
Van der Hagen - NOT RECOMMENDED
$20
10
$2.00
Shark
$8
100
$0.08
Lord
$11
100
$0.11
Wilkinson Sword
$18
100
$0.18
DOVO Shavette
$18
10
$1.80
125 Blade Sampler
$47
125
$0.37
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My first choice in blades is Feather
Feather
As mentioned, these are my go-to blades. Made in Japan, they are renowned for their sharpness and aggressiveness. Ideal for men with coarse or dense facial hair, they cut easily through just about any kind of hair. However, I DO NOT recommend them for novice wet shavers as they aren’t forgiving. They also tend to be too aggressive for men with sensitive skin or men who are prone to skin irregularities such as acne or scarring. You can click here to buy a pack of 50 for under $15. Try finding that price on Gillette ProFusion or Mach 3 blades.
Astra
When I began wet shaving, I received a set of Astra blades in a sampler pack I had purchased on eBay. Still sharp, but not aggressive, Astra blades have a loyal following of men with sensitive skin looking for a high-quality wet shave without cuts. Overall, they’re a good quality razor. Just not aggressive enough for my needs. Click here to get 100 Astra blades for around $10.
The famous Derby blades
Derby
Derby blades are pretty exceptional blades for anyone with sensitive skin. Not nearly as sharp as Feather, they still provided a nice shave for me. I used them on my second pass with two different razors (one aggressive and one not aggressive) to test the blade out. I found that overall it was a smooth experience. However, I don’t believe that would have been the case had I used them on my first pass as I did notice a little tugging when I first tried them out.
Gillette DE blades are far different than their cartridge blades
Gillette
These are not the Gillette blades you use with a cartridge razor like the ProFusion or the Mach 3. These are standard, old school DE safety razor blades and they’re some of the most popular around. I first tried them when I bought a sampler pack back when I began using a DE razor. Fairly forgiving but still sharp, they were a decent blade compared to many of the others. In a pinch, I would be happy using them, and they’re widely available at drug stores across North America.
BIC blades are great for beginners
BIC – Chrome Platinum
Surprisingly, the company that makes those disposable razors for women and the cheap ballpoint pens has done something right when it comes to safety razors. These blades are pretty darn good. Another set that I received in one of the many sample packs I tried, BIC blades are very forgiving and yet surprisingly sharp at the same time. They’re great for novice wet shavers with coarser hair that at some point will graduate to using Feathers. Ideally, they should be used in a fairly aggressive razor. Click here to buy 100 blades for $15.
BlueBird
Probably one of my top three favorite razor blades, while the BlueBird blades aren’t as sharp as Feathers, they still do the trick with immaculate precision. For the most part, like Feather they’re an unforgiving blade, but they are also scalpel sharp with the ability to slice even the coarsest hair. I received my first pack of these blades free with a razor purchase, and I probably have fifty or sixty of their blades at home waiting to be put to good use. If you like Feather but want something slightly less sharp and more forgiving, try BlueBird.
The terrible Van der Hagen blades
Van Der Hagen
I was sent these blades by Van der Hagen along with a razor that you’ll read about in our upcoming guide on the top DE safety razors. I have to tell you; they’re some of the worst blades I’ve ever used, and Sven Raphael Schneider had the same experience. Not only did they play a game of slice and dice with my face, but when I examined them closely using my jewelers loupe, I noticed the blade was terribly grinded with divots in the blade. I was initially going to leave them out of this list completely, but I figured it was worth noting my experience. I would rather shave with an STI-laden shank made in prison from a rusty spoon. I’ll never touch these blades again, and neither should you. At $2 a blade this is a perfect example that top $ doesn’t always get you top quality.
Shark blades still use their vintage style design
Shark – Super Stainless Steel Blades
Not quite as sharp as the bite but far more forgiving, Shark blades are a great introductory blade for novice wet shavers or those with sensitive skin. I’ve heard that they wear quickly and are often inconsistent. While my experience with them wasn’t phenomenal, I was impressed with them enough that I recommended them to a friend who just started using a safety razor. Click here to get 100 blades for $8.
Lord
Another very popular brand of blades, LORD blades are renowned for their consistency and are a great pick for men with average hair and skin. Made in the Middle East, they’re known for being a very comfortable and forgiving blade to use. Click here to get 100 blades for around $11.
A sealed package of Wilkinson Sword blades
Wilkinson Sword
Another excellent product line, the Wilkinson Sword blades are made in Germany use a proprietary coating to give their blades a comfortable and sharp shave. Ideal for average hair and skin types, these are some great blades worthy of your consideration. Click here for 100 blades for just under $20.
DOVO Shavette
The most commonly used blades by barbers who can no longer legally use a straight razor in their region. DOVO Shavettes was created as a way for barbers to continue offering hot shaves while replacing the blade after each use. I’ve never purchased the blades before, but I’ve had them used on me a handful of times during a hot shave. Overall, they’re not bad but it’s tough to judge when someone else is using them on you. While technically not for a DE safety razor, you can click here to buy them for your DOVO shavette razor.
Other Well Known Blades
The goal of this guide was to narrow the choices down for you, so you don’t have to so the testing yourself. If you want to test all others as well, here is a list of other well-known brands that you can test or you go with a sampler kit like this one, so you can try all of them.
BRAND
AVERAGE PRICE
BLADE COUNT
PRICE PER BLADE
Dorco
$8
100
$0.08
Gem Blue Star
$3
5
$0.60
Polsilver
$19
50
$0.37
Personna
$13
100
$0.13
Personna Red
$15
100
$0.15
Merkur
$25
100
$0.25
Crystal Super +
$19
120
$0.16
Bolzano Superinox
$38
100
$0.38
Super-Max
$12
100
$0.12
KAI
$25
50
$0.48
Dorco blades
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Conclusion
Hopefully, you’ve enjoyed this guide on the top DE safety razor blades on the market. I really do recommend trying a sampler pack if you’re new to wet shaving, but if you’re set on following my advice, I hope this article leads you in the right direction. What kind of blades do you use? Any that you can recommend?
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