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Before I tell you how to plant a plant, I just wanted to say that every single plant on the planet exists because it wants to grow. No plant fails because it is depressed, or given up on life. They die for the same reason that we do - age, pests, disease, environmental stress. The list goes on.
So when it comes to planting plants, be it in containers or in the ground, so long as you provide the conditions that your particular plant requires to grow then it will grow. Don't forget that it is not just about what you are planting your plants into, it is where you are planting it.
Soil preparation - image credit to rawfoodenergybenefits.com
The make up of garden soil varies enormously so it is a good idea to add a good quality compost into the area in which you wish to plant. Better still, use the same compost mix that the plant was originally growing in, although if you didn't grow the plant yourself it is unlikely that you will be able to find this out.
Adding compost to the soil is good sense as, after all, most shop bought plants will be grown in a pre-mixed, sterilized compost of one description or another.
In soils prone to water-logging add plenty of horticultural grit, perlite or vermiculte to the soil. In more extreme conditions consider creating a low mound and planting your plant in that so that at least part of the rootball is effectively 'above' the natural soil level.
In dry soils, add plenty of organic compost and/or perlite and vermiculite. You can also consider placing a reinforced pipe that leads from the soil surface to just below the root ball to facilitate effective watering.
I will leave it to you to find out if your plant prefers a sunny or shady position.
This next bit is very important!
Root hairs - image credit to www.quorumtech.com
A lot of so-called experienced gardeners have a habit of 'teasing' the main roots out of a root-ball before planting. They do this to 'orientate' the roots in a pot bound plant. This is completely unnecessary and does nothing but damage the plant.
Pulling out the larger roots damages the plant because it snaps these tiny root hairs (each one is just a single modified plant cell), so the plant has to grow replacements hairs and then still has to adapt to the change in the roots environment. This will always take considerably longer than leaving the rootball intact in the first place. It is called root shock - don't do it!
Planting a pot grown plant into the ground will cause a certain amount of shock to the root system! Why? Because the tiny root hairs release enzymes into its local environment which it uses to capture and absorb nutrients. Change the chemical make up of the root environment (by planting it into soil) and it takes a week or so for the roots to adapt these enzymes and start growing at its optimum rate.
What compost do you use?
Compost - image credit to www.totallygreen.com
Most multi-purpose composts are excellent and usually of a neutral pH. However, some plants require an acidic soil and in that case use an ericaceous compost.
To find out if your plant requires specific soil condition check with the plants care label or research using an on-line database such as the RHS website.
Certain plants prefer alkaline soil such as Cornus sp, and while they will be fine in a standard multi-purpose compost you can add a small amount of lime to the mix. make sure you read the instructions on the packet before use.
Step by step instructions
1. Water your plants rootball before planting
2. No matter what anyone else says DO NOT START PULLING BITS OF ROOT OUT OF THE ROOTBALL!
Image credit to www.thealttab.com
3. I know it is being picky but square holes are better that round ones, particularly so with pot bound plants or heavy clay soils. Also, break up the soil below where the plant is going as this will help with drainage (in the short term) and the roots will find it easier to penetrate as they search for water and stabilize the plant.
4. Add a handful of of growmore, bonemeal or whichever suitable fertilizer to the base of the hole, but gently mix it in with the soil as you do not want a large amount of concentrated fertilize in direct contact with the roots. A hand full of vermiculite, or perlite or an appropriate mycorrhizal fungal mixed in will also help. Always read the packets for instructions and measurements.
5. If the plant is tall and needs stabilizing then put in place your plant supports now. Movement of the plant will result in movement at the root ball with will make it more difficult for it to root into the surrounding soil.
Extreme watering
image credit to http://newshopper.sulekha.com
6. I know that you have just watered the plant before planting, but once planted you will need to water it again to help the rootball bind with the surrounding soil.
7. And this is also important, your newly planted plant will need to be watered until it is properly established.
This can be as much as every day or so in hot weather. Just look an any garden Alan Titchmarsh has designed for television. When they show it with the family a few weeks later to see how they are getting on with it, there are always dead plants in the background - well, almost always.
To be on the safe side always research your plants preferred requirements. That way you can replicate them as best as possible.
Alternatively, only plant plants which are known to thrive in your local environment.
For further information click onto:
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How do I find out my Soil Type?
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