January 23, 2016 - Sheffield, United Kingdom
Indo China November 2015
This was to be my introduction to Indo China and John's chance to revisit a land he had seen and fallen in love with many years ago.
Saturday 31st October
After braving the underground at rush hour, two flights and a couple of taxi journeys we arrived late afternoon in Yangon.
It was HOT!!
Our small boutique hotel was tastefully decorated, good use had been made of ethnic art and fabrics and after a good nights sleep we were ready to see Yangon.
Lily was to be our guide. Our first stop was Chinatown. The name is something of a misnomer as Chinatown is one big food market. We sidestepped dishes filled with fresh fish, gave vendors carrying goods a wide berth, avoided the odd live crab that had escaped and were overwhelmed by the profusion of fresh food and creative arrangements.
Our market visit was followed by a ride on the local train, not one of the old trains unfortunately where street vendors still trade.
Onto Kandagyi lake set in a well maintained park and finally our last morning stop - Scotts market.
The best of Yangon was yet to come. Taking advice we arrived at the Shwedagon Paya around 4-30pm. We were surprised and delighted by the pagoda. The huge gold stupa and numerous temples were striking. The tourists were outnumbered by large crowds of Burmese visiting one of Buddhism's most sacred sites to pay their respects.
The gold dome glowed burnt orange in the setting sun. As dusk approached and the light began to fade, oil lamps, candles began to light the whole area. Smoking Joss sticks were everywhere and incense infused the air. The scene was magical.
Monday 2nd November
After leaving Yangon our next stop was Bangkok. We were to meet our fellow travellers for the first time. What would they be like? We would soon know.
Tuesday 3rd November
Bangkok encompasses the past, present and future like so many S.E. Asian cities all equally chaotic but full of energy. As an international transport hub it entertains and provides enough consumables from its cheap clothes to its massage parlours and innumerable bars to keep any tourist happy during their stay. It also has a few sights worth seeing.
We found that most of Bangkok's 'must-sees' were in a compact walkable area. Our centrally placed hotel was ideal. The whole of the Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace resemble a fairy tale Disney set. Sweeping gilded rooftops, ornate stupas, temples, gold, mosaics, beautiful craftsmanship amaze.
Later we boarded a longtail boat for a trip down the Chaao Praya river and into the canal network. Stilted houses, toothless crocodiles and large monitor lizards line the canals together with protected catfish.
Following lunch I considered that some retail therapy was needed so a long awaited (40 years) saunter down Khaosan street and Ram Butru was a fitting finale to our stay in Bangkok.
Wednesday 4th November
We glimpsed our future destinations today as we left Chang Rai airport. Laos and Cambodia were clearly visible from the viewpoint at the infamous Golden Triangle.
Thursday 5th November
Rising early I saw the Buddhist monks come to collect their food which was prepared and then distributed by the local people. Great dignity was shown by both monks and locals and the river setting and the surrounding stunning scenery provided the perfect backdrop.
After breakfast trucks transferred us to the immigration office where the inevitable long wait for visas began.
We were heading for our longboat. The next two days were to be spent travelling along the Mekong. As we boarded the sun was shining and the river was calm and peaceful. During the day we saw the occasional rice boat but little river traffic disturbed the tranquillity.
Lunch was a pleasure, cooked and served by the boatman's wife.
Our destination for the night was Pak Beng. We arrived as the sun was sinking fast. The pink sandstone rocks turned red, the light was stunning.
Friday 6th November
We woke to a power cut and being completely unprepared for such an eventuality our only source of light was our mobile phones.
Back on the longboat we settled ready for another relaxing day and the completion of our 260ml trip.
The scenery was changing. The boat had to negotiate rapids created by the hard igneous rocks. Almost vertical limestone cliffs blanked out the hot sunshine for long distances and the terrain became more lush and tropical hiding the villages situated high above. The occasional fisherman and children swimming were the only real signs of habitation.
We broke the journey at the Tam Ting caves, cut out of the limestone banks. These caves are filled with thousands of Buddha images brought by the surrounding villages as a sign of their devotion. Arriving at our destination Luang Prabang I marvelled once again at the honeyed 'magic hour' light.
Sunday 7th November
Luang Prabang is situated on a peninsula bounded by the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. It is Unesco protected and justly so. Buddhist temples abound, the cuisine is excellent and the French colonial buildings are well maintained. Luang Prabang remains chic yet full of old charm and the night market is wonderful.
Today was overcast so the views from Phu Si, a 100m tall hill which is crowned by a gilded stupa, lacked clarity.
In the afternoon we visited Kuang Si. We saw these menthol blue cascades at their best. Pool after pool plunged down the hillside as we descended from the main fall.
Sunday 8th November
A free day so in searing heat and high humidity we followed the river and walked both sides of the peninsula.
The best known monastery in Luang Prabang is Wat Xiet Thong and it is centred around the 1560 chapel. The chapel's roofs sweep very low almost reaching the ground. Gold and glittering mosaics decorated the temple.
Monday 9th November
Onto Vang Viang. We were blessed with superb scenery all the way. The road wound around hills and mountains that rise sharply from the valley floor.
Vang Viang itself has a stunning situation. It crouches low over the Nam Song with a backdrop of limestone karsts and bright green paddy fields.
Tuesday 10th November
It was very hot again as we walked to the Tham Vang caves. During the American War these caves provided a hideout for the Lao communists allowing them to watch enemy activity on the nearby American airfield.
The afternoon was well spent. We kayaked. The scenery was splendid and Rosemary and Lindy provided the entertainment as we rode the rapids. Their capsize was classic!!
Wednesday 11th November
Rosemary was on form again at breakfast as a fracas erupted between her and a Frenchman regarding the removal of dirty dishes.The Frenchman was no match for our Rosemary!!
We left Vang Vieng for Vientiane. Vientiane has tree lined boulevards of frangipani and tamarind, glittering temples and Buddhist monks wandering the capital. There were lots of cafes and they served the best iced coffee found during the holiday.
Wat Si Saket is believed to be Vientiane's oldest surviving temple. It is very much in need of a facelift after sadly been damaged by flooding.
Thursday 12th November
Vientiane's Arc de Triomphe replica (Patuxai) is a slightly incongruous sight built of concrete donated by the Americans intended for the construction of a new airport.
Leaving the relatively languid Vientiane we were certainly unprepared for Hanoi. The swarms of motorbikes, the tangled web of streets of the Old Quarter captivated us all and terrified some. Hanoi has it all: ancient history, a colonial legacy and a modern outlook
We were so lucky to stay in the Old Quarter. It pulsates with life. Hawkers are everywhere and Bars hug every corner. Youngsters sit gossiping, eating and drinking or weave through the narrow streets on their motorbikes.
Walking these streets was the highlight of Hanoi for us simply soaking up the sights, sounds and smells.
Friday 13th November
Today we would board a boat and spend a night in Ha Long bay. But oh dear! Our first rain.
The port was full of boats on our arrival, bustling with passengers stocking up on supplies. As usual we were hunting for tonic!! Our tender took us to our old converted rice boat. It was charming and our cabin surpassed all expectations as did the food over our 24hr stay.
So much fresh fish.
We saw excellent stalagmites and stalactites at the limestone caves and a midden of shell left behind by cave dwellers, something I'd never seen before. Even more unusual were the snowflakes embedded in the rock.
More kayaking followed later and lasted until nightfall.
Saturday 14th November
Sadly we disembarked around 10-30am. Ha Long bay is impressive whatever the weather.
After the serenity of Ha Long bay we were once again plunged into the madness of Hanoi. A stroll around Hoan Kien lake and once again the Old Quarter. This area acted as a magnet just as the ceaseless chaos was mesmerising.
Sunday 15th November
How Lo prison held no interest for me and everyone returned looking very sombre.
In contrast the Temple of Literature was alive and buzzing with students rehearsing for their graduation, happy and full of high spirits.
Back to the Old Quarter before leaving Hanoi bound for Hue on the Reunification Express. Laden with beer and gin we spent an extremely pleasant evening before arriving in Hue around 9-30am.
To quote: 'Hue is the intellectual, cultural and spiritual heart of Vietnam.' Lonely Planet
As a World Heritage site it boasts palaces and pagodas, tombs and temples. Many are crumbling and in decay bombed during the French and American wars. Renovation and reconstruction is fortunately being carried out but it's a slow process.
The Imperial Palace is the heart of Hue. Heavily fortified it has 2km thick 10km long walls, a moat and 10 gateways. A great deal is ruins and rubble but there is evidence of its former glory days where restoration has taken place.
The Thien Mu Pagoda has been a flashpoint for political demonstrations since the 1960's. It is an icon of Vietnam built on a hill overlooking the Perfume river.
Finally our day ended at the Tomb of Tu Doc, one of the many tombs built by the rulers of the Nguyen dynasty at enormous expense.
The heat had been intense all day and we were all very weary. However a rickshaw ride and a meal at the house of a friend of Phung's lifted everyone's spirits.
Thursday 17th November
A wonderful morning!! We took a cycle ride to Than Toan and the nearby market.
Following the example set by the rickshaw drivers the previous evening we entered the traffic 'with confidence' at morning rush hour. After a few wobbles we were soon pedalling happily along the narrow tracks through the local villages and paddy fields. Water buffalo splashed around in the rice fields and egrets were everywhere.
After returning to the hotel we were soon heading for Hoi An. We drove through the beautiful peninsula of Lang Co and passed over the Hai Ven pass.
The marble mountain was interesting. Many steps to climb to a huge cave used by the Vietnam Cong as a hospital base during the American War. Fantastic views again.
Wednesday 18th November
The heat and humidity was continuing as we arrived at Hoi An. Hoi An is delightful. A riverside setting with Japanese merchant houses and Chinese temples preserved and now providing the tourist with stylish restaurants, wine bars and a glut of tailor shops.
The river life and market appear little changed and the absence of 21st century curses of traffic and pollution provided a welcome relief.
Thursday 19th November
We made the most of a free day to enjoy Hoi An ending the day with a visit to the beach to see the setting sun.
Saigon next!!
Friday 20th November
Flight from Da Nang to Saigon.
Skyscrapers, commerce, culture and a booming economy in Saigon contribute to Vietnam's drive into the 21st century. Saigon is full of energy but also like all S.E.Asia's cities it is full of motorbikes.
Stepping back into the sixties will be my enduring memory of Reunification Palace. The building is a time warp left as it was when the the first communist tanks crashed through the gates on the morning of the 30th April 1975 when Saigon surrendered to the North.
In contrast the charming post office was the afternoon's highlight for me. Built by Eiffel, it's interior decorated with fascinating historic maps of Saigon and Vietnam, was a surprise.
It faces Notre Dame cathedral, a brick look alike.
The War Remnants Museum certainly drove home the brutality of war and its many civilian victims. Bias was inevitable but many of the most disturbing photographs illustrating American atrocities came from US sources. I became aware of the horrors created by Agent Orange.
Saturday 21st November
Yes I suppose the Cu Chi tunnels are a 'must see' when visiting Vietnam, they certainly symbolise the tenacity of the Vietnamese people. The tunnels facilitated Viet Cong control of a large rural area only 30 km away from Saigon during the American War.
The visit started with a very dated propaganda video but showed how the Viet Cong managed to survive against tremendous odds.
The afternoon was fun, our second rickshaw ride to see the sights of Saigon. But I was not too keen on the cock fighting and small bird fighting!!
Sunday 22nd November
Onto the Mekong delta, the 'rice bowl' of Vietnam. It's a water world, everything floats, house, restaurants, and even markets. At times you lose sight of land amongst the many waterways and canals. It is one of the most densely populated regions of Vietnam, every available space intensively farmed.
Our destination for the night was the Ut Trinh home stay on Minh island. We travelled by traditional boat and sand-pan.
The home stay was charming. Built from mahogany inlaid with pearls the open verandah led into a large reception area. Fruit trees surrounded us : rambutans, bananas, jackfruit, papaya, milk apples and longans.
Our room was simple but airy. We helped prepare supper and after some local entertainment we retired and slept reasonably well considering the heat.
Monday 23rd November
We left the home stay. A short walk to the boat and we were soon at Vinh Long. A drive followed to the small border town of Chau Doc for our overnight stay before crossing the border into Cambodia. The waterfront afforded us with a pleasant early evening stroll.
Tuesday 24th November
We sadly said farewell to Vietnam. A short bus ride and then the ferry. Health and Safety was not a priority as vehicles, passengers embarked and disembarked concurrently.
A walk across ' no man's land ' to the Cambodian border to find we had a long wait: Disorganisation, red tape and low level corruption.
But Phnom Penh didn't disappoint. This was the Asia I had always dreamed of. Phnom Penh has a superb location on the banks of the Mekong. The glittering Royal Palace with its sweeping roofs dominates the skyline near the waterfront.
Phnom Penh has been tarnished by both war and revolution but it's fighting back and boasts a cafe culture, bustling bars and good food.
Dinner was on a boat on the Mekong. The fireworks were good.
Wednesday 25th November
A difficult day for me today. After a great deal of thought I decided to visit the Killing Fields along with the rest of the group. I must add that I did not go because I believed this was something everyone should see to bring home the horror of Cambodia's past. I felt I needed to listen to all that would be said and maybe understand a little better the history and rise of the Khymer Rouge.
The group's mood throughout the morning was solemn. Everyone subdued but attentive.
The Killing Fields are now a peaceful, shady former longan orchard. It was easy to leave the group and find a quiet spot to reflect on all the brutality that took place there and l eventually reconciled myself to the thought that the victims were now at peace, hopefully never to be forgotten.
Both John and I decided to give the Tuoi Sieng Museum a miss.
The afternoon visit to the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda were a fitting antidote to the horrors of the morning.Thankfully the complex escaped the worst excess of the Khymer Rouge and we could marvel at the exotica of the temples.
Thursday 26th November
A long bumpy road to Siem Reap mostly on unmade roads. We stopped at the town of Skuon, famous for its delicacy - fried spiders. Tomorrow Angkor Wat!!
Friday 27th November
Siem Reap is the epicentre of the new Cambodia with more hotels, bars and shopping malls than temples. Everyone bound for Angkor passes through Siem Reap, young and old.
The enormity of Angkor is amazing. It is so difficult to choose a favourite. Angkor Wat, the world's largest religious building is the heart and soul of Cambodia. It was never abandoned to the elements and although of enormous pride to the Cambodians it seems to bring them little benefit as the government often considered 'puppets' of the Vietnamese seem to take the profits. The logistics needed to build this temple are mind blowing but great creativity gave way to this superb ancient monument.
Angkor Thom followed a visit to the Artisans d'Angkor. Here impoverished youngsters are taught the specialised skills of silk painting, stone carving, lacquering amongst others.
The gates of Angkor Thom grab you first and then the 54 demons and the 54 gods engaged in a tug of war on the causeway. Beyond these gods and demons that make up the formidable walls of the causeway runs a massive moat.
At the heart of Angkor Thom is the Bayon. It's Gothic towers are decorated with 216 faces. These enormous, cold but smiling faces glare down from every angle exuding power and control.
Cambodia must be considered the temple capital of the world. Quite a day!!!
Saturday 28th November
Another day in Angkor and an early start to view Ta Prohm.Ta Prohm resembles an Indiana Jones fantasy. The vast tree root system embraces the crumbling walls and towers from all angles. The power of the jungle is very evident.
The trees are most impressive and makeTa Prohm a photographer' s paradise. However a balance needs to be maintained or Bayon could disappear for good.
But it's the nearest most of us will get ever to experiencing the thrill of discovery.
Pre-Rup is known as the 'pink temple'. There were far too many people there to appreciate it fully.
After lunch and we were once again on a boat. This time we travelled along the Tonle Sap river heading for Tonle Sap lake and a visit to one of the many floating villages. They have all the amenities of a mainland village-houses, machine-tool shops, a school, mosque and vegetable vendors- but everything floats. The villages shift with the water moving into the Tonle Sap lake as the river recedes.
My enduring memory of the village will be the smell of the fish plant!!
When Borey (our guide) mentioned a final meal followed by a karaoke everyone cringed. But we enjoyed it. Our communal 'singing and dancing', followed by a visit to the night market, Lindy and Rosemary entertaining us once again, was a fitting end to our holiday.
We were sadly leaving Cambodia tomorrow. Cambodia's recent history is horrific. Now, the country seems to be at a crossroads trying to recover from the brutal years of the Khymer Rouge. The picture looks optimistic. Phnom Penh is full of new construction projects but corruption continues from the small bribes witnessed at the border to the deep covert corruption at a much higher level. The CCP have dominated Cambodian politics since 1979 when they were installed in power by the Vietnamese. They seem reluctant to relinquish power. People hope that political and electoral reform will take place in the near future.
Sunday 29th November
Sadly we said farewell to our group at K.L. Airport. A big culture shock was soon to follow. No motorbikes, made roads instead of dirt ones, skyscrapers dominating the skyline and then our hotel - a 34 storey skyscraper overlooking the TwinTowers!!
Monday 30th November
With such an amazing shopping mall within walking distance the temptation was too great. A whole floor devoted to high tech so inevitably we now own an iPad !!
Monday 31st November
A tedious flight home, long and in darkness for about 18 hours. But it was all worthwhile and another successful trip for both of us.