No one has posted any PC build or upgrade info in a while, so...
I wasn't planning to upgrade my existing PC for at least another year. But I had a few extra $$, so.....
This was my existing PC setup:
AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Black Edition Thuban 3.3GHz AM3 125W Six-Core CPU (OC'd to 3.7Ghz)
GIGABYTE GA-890GPA-UD3H AM3 AMD 890GX AMD Motherboard
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
PC Power and Cooling Silencer Mk III Series 600W Modular Power Supply
The upgrade:
AMD FX-8350 Vishera 4.0GHz (4.2GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 125W Eight-Core CPU
GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD5 AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900)
ASUS GT610-2GD3-CSM GeForce GT 610 2GB 64-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 Video Card
CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W Modular Power supply
I needed to go to a AM3+ motherboard for the new Vishera (Bulldozer) CPU.
This MB didn't have a GPU, so I added a inexpensive Nvidia video card. I don't 'game'
and I wanted a quiet, passivly cooled card with VGA and HDMI outputs as this
PC is in my living room. This card also has DVI as a bonus. I have a Windows
score of 4.8 with this card. I don't care. The other non-graphic scores are
7.7 to 7.9. I use my CPU to encode, not my GPU.
I also needed to upgrade my RAM. I decided on 16GB as I'm running W7 64bit.
I've been happy with G.Skill RAM and just got a faster version.
I also wanted to go to a 27" LED monitor and this Hanns-G was on sale and
had VGA and HDMI inputs. This replaces a 24" Viewsonic LED monitor.
I use my surround amp for audio, so no monitor audio used.
Hanns-G HL273HPB Black 27" 2ms HDMI Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor.
Since I use this PC often from a lounge chair, I decided to add in a monitor arm to
make it a bit more versatile. It works very well.
ERGOTRON 45-241-026 LX Desk Mount LCD Arm.
I noticed my existing 600W PS was running a bit warm with the new MB. It was a
very good quality Power and Computing PS. But I upgraded to a 750W Corsair PS.
CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W Power supply. It runs cooler.
I also changed out my two Gelid 120mm front case fans to PWM versions. Much better speed and noise
control. The old MB didn't work well with PWM case fans, but the new one does.
I set them to 'silent' mode and they run at a very quiet 600 Rpm.
GELID Solutions FN-PX12-15 120mm Case PWM cooler fans
The new MB only has two external USB 3.0 connections. I added a PCI slot adapter to add two more USB 3.0 connections.
HooToo® HT-PC003 Internal 19-Pin Motherboard to USB 3.0 Female 2-Port Adapter
The rest is mostly unchanged from my old computer details.
PHOTOS: (I apoligize for the quality of the photos. I was having camera problems and didn't review the photos till later. :mad: )
Attachment 21927
These are my new parts. A new motherboard, and new CPU and new RAM and a new video card.
Attachment 21928
My PC. A bit 'grungy' as it hasn't been cleaned up in a couple of years. It's a Lian Li case.
About 5 years old. A very nice case and quality built. Internal steel bracing and aluminum skin.
Good quality lasts. It's been through several MBs. I like it as it has two 120mm front intake
fans with filters and one 120mm rear exhast fan.
Attachment 21929
This was my existing setup. I'm using a Corsair H-50 water cooler. The first raidiator fan pushes and the
second fan exhausts, creating a faster airflow and better cooling through the radiator.
The stock Corsair setup uses the fans for external intake. I didn't want unfiltered air into
the radiator so I use the case filters and only exhaust the internal air. Not as efficient, but much
easier to maintain the front filters than an added on rear intake filter would be.
Attachment 21930
One of the front intake fans. The intake filter screen has been removed. These are low speed
quiet fans.(About 900 to 1200 RPM) I decided to upgrade these to PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) fans as they are more
efficient. The new MB can control these in PWM mode. I've set them at the 'silent' setting and they normally
run at about 600 RPM, virtually silent. I'm using a brush here to dislodge dust and grime from
the existing fans and housing. Just blowing high pressure air is not normally enough for through cleaning.
I also use 91% isopropyl alcohol to remove the grease along with using makeup removal pads.
Attachment 21931
This is the existing H-50 Corsair hydro cooler. It works very well and I will reuse it for the new CPU.
Attachment 21932
A photo after the Corsair cooler has been removed from the CPU. You want to run the PC for a little while
to warm up the cooler to soften the thermal compound before removal. The compound I use doesn't really harden,
so easy to remove the cooler. Always a good idea to just 'slightly' twist the cooler before pulling upwards to see if it
easily moves.
If not, the cooler and the CPU may be stuck together. If you then pull it straight up, it 'may' pull
the CPU out of the socket, hopefully undamaged. Then you just wedge it off the cooler with with a non-scratching
plastic tool. Be very, very careful handling the CPU. If you bend the pins, very bad. Some Intel CPUs don't have pins,
but still be careful when removing a cooler.
It's a bit hard to see, but the old CPU did have an even coating of thermal compound applied. No temperature problems.
It was a 125W CPU, same as the new one will be, so temperatures should be OK using the H-50.
Attachment 21933
The motherboard stripped out of the case. Notice the exhaust fan grate for the Corsair cooler seems to
have a bit of dust on the inside of it. The radiator did also. Look a bit lower and notice the case grate to the
left also has dust on it.
My system has two filtered intake fans on the front. There should'nt be any interior dust. The left grate is
acting as an intake and sucking in unfiltered air and dust that is going through the CPU cooler fans
and the radiator. Poor case design but not that unusual. Air movement in a case should be in a closed system for best
cooling performance and dust prevention. You don't want air leaking in from nooks and crannies past your filters.
I will plug this off with a bit of plastic and some glue. Then the 'only' air entering the case should be filtered air.
Attachment 21934
This is the PC Power and Cooling PS. A good PS, but it ran a bit warm with the new MB. And even with the old
MB. I was disapointed. I also saw some strange low voltage readings using the HW Monitor software. Like 8VDC on the 12VDC bus.
That is wrong. The PC wouldn't even boot with those voltages. Mainly for the heat problem, I upgraded the PS to a Corsair 750W.
The P&C PS wasn't at fault for the low voltages, though it may have been a bit overrated at 600W. HWMonitor was reading the voltages incorrectly.
Attachment 21935
All the parts removed from the PC. You can see the Corsair H-50 cooler and fans and the old MB and CPU and RAM.
There are also the three optical drives, two BD burners and a DVD burner. I pulled them out to help clean out the dust.
There is also the backplane for the MB, and a fan and bracket I used to cool the Northbridge chip and the RAM on the old MB.
The small circuit board is a PCI X1 SATA card. I had used that as I didn't have enough SATA connections for my
internal and external SATA drives. The PCI backplane adapter is for my S/PDIF external audio connection.
Attachment 21936
This is what I use for cleaning. I first used a high pressure air source to blow the loose dust out of the case.
I caged each fan with a plastic wire tie to keep them from overspeeding and damaging the fan bearings.
Do this outdoors as you don't want to be breathing that dust! Then I used a soft haired brush, Q-tips and
some makeup removal pads lightly saturated with 91% isopropyl alcohol. This will disolve most grease with
no damage to plastic parts. (But try it first.) The makeup removal pads are available at most drug stores
and work much better that cotton balls or paper towels that can leave fibers. I spent quite a while
cleaning the fans and blades and every inch of the inside of the case. It's worth it to start with a clean case.
Those makeup removal pads are also great for cleaning off old thermal compound from the CPU and cooler.
Don't use too much alcohol so that it drips off the pads.
Attachment 21937
This is the new motherboard. In order to use the hydo cooler, you have to remove the air cooler hold down brackets
and use a special base bracket from the underside of the MB. It's shown in the background of this photo. I used some
new double sided tape to hold it in place temporarily.
Attachment 21938
The new CPU in place and the old cooler hold downs shown to the left. The MB is on a anti-static mat and I use
a anti-static disipator on my wrist as I do these type of installations. The hydro cooler hold down is just sitting there.
I will attach it after I put the MB in the case and apply the thermal compound to the CPU.
Attachment 21939
The MB attached to the case. As soon as it's screwed down, I plug in the main power supply and the CPU PS cable.
That mostly guards the MB from static charges.
Attachment 21940
The CPU has already been coated with a very thin layer of thermal compound here. I use GELID Solutions
GC-Extreme Thermal Compound as it has very good thermal conductivity and it doesn't seem to harden over time.
I like it much better than Arctic Silver or similar. It is difficult to apply and you don't want to get it on your skin.
Then I attach the cooler radiator to the PC. Follow manufacturer's instructions. Place the cooler off to one side,
being careful not to touch the cooler surface or scratch it. Sorry, no photos of this.
(But here's a link to the previous PC build and there are photos of the water cooler installation in more detail.)
http://forum.videohelp.com/threads/270162-AMD-six-core-CPU-and-Corsair-H50-water-cooling-setup?
Next step is to carefully attach the cooler hold down and the cooler. You just put in the hold down screws till they barely
catch. Then lower the cooler while holding up the hold down. Rotate the cooler till it lines up with the holder,
then drop it straight down on the CPU surface and tighten all four screws equally. Just follow the instructions from the
manufacturer. It is much easier for me to attach the cooler and radiator and apply the thermal compound when
the MB is mounted in the case. You don't want to kink around those coolant lines any more than necessary.
With an air cooler, it's easier to attach it to the MB before installing into the case.
Attachment 21941
Next I attach the front panel connections, including USB. I don't use the front panel audio connections with this PC.
I then plug in the SATA cables, add the PCI-E video card and the PCI adapter for my S/PDIF connector. Since this
MB has more SATA connections than the old one, that's all I need.
Attachment 21942
Next step is recheck all your wiring and connectors, then lift up the case and shake it a bit to check for loose screws.
They can short out your motherboard and destroy it. Very important! Next attach all the cables and power up the PC.
Enter BIOS as soon as it starts. Most times that is done by clicking the 'Delete' button on the keyboard.
Go to the 'Health' page and check the voltages and temperatures.
Let the PC run in BIOS mode for about twenty minutes, or enough to stabalize while monitoring.
Check that all fans are running. You can also adjust the date and set your boot drive preferences and a few other settings.
Then reboot and you should be in the OS.
A bit later after the photos, I was still unhappy with the voltages and the PS heat output. So I upgraded to a 750W PS and I also added a
PCI slot USB 3.0 adapter so I would have 4 USB 3.0 connections. The MB has a spare USB 3.0 socket header.
Future upgrades: I plan to replace two of my SATA drives. One is a 320GB and the other a 500GB. Both are SATA 3 and the
other two newer ones are SATA 6, 1TB drives. Since SATA 6 1TB drives are cheap now, that's probably what I will use.
I prefer WD HDDs. Greens are OK for this application, but NewEgg had the same price for the Black version, so I ordered two.
They have a 5 year warranty. The MB is all SATA 6 capable. My old one wasn't. The OCZ Vertex SSD boot drive is still performing
very well. 120 GB seems perfect for the OS. It is still less than 50% full, which is about right for a SSD.
I was very dissapointed in the HW Monitor program that I have used for years and I can no longer recommend it.
It misread most of my MB voltages. I thought it was a MB error. Only the RAM voltage was correct. The 12V bus was read as
8V and the 5V bus as 3V and the 3.3V read as 2V. I tried Speedfan and got the same numbers. Both were the latest versions.
This MB has been in production for about a year. I don't know why the readings were wrong. BIOS reported normal voltages.
I tried HWiNFO and all the reported voltages were correct. I also liked the other info the program gave. http://www.hwinfo.com/
I left all the motherboard settings at default. No overclock. (At least for now. ;))
The RAM voltage is a bit low at 1.464VDC and I will correct that to 1.5VDC, which is the specifcation.
The PC runs cool and stable and the performance is very good.
Once I got the new setup running properly, I tried RipBot on the original 'Matrix' BD and it took about 3 hours to encode
to MKV with my normal two pass settings. I had ran the same encode with the old MB a few days before and it took about 4 hours.
That's a huge improvement in encoding speed. :D
The reported CPU temps maxed out at 42C during the encode. All eight cores at 100%. The case temps maxed out at 43C,
so blocking the rear case vent didn't cause any increases. The new Asus GPU card ran about 53C when playing back a BD disc.
That's OK for a passivly cooled card. The PC is completly quiet and you can't hear the fans unless you are very close.
Attached Images
A.jpg
(227.4 KB)B.jpg
(144.7 KB)C.jpg
(220.3 KB)
D.jpg
(162.6 KB)
D1.jpg
(190.2 KB)
E.jpg
(277.0 KB)
F.jpg
(188.0 KB)
G.jpg
(171.6 KB)
H.jpg
(187.5 KB)
I.jpg
(177.5 KB)
J.jpg
(247.2 KB)
K.jpg
(229.7 KB)
L.jpg
(288.9 KB)
M.jpg
(305.2 KB)
N.jpg
(276.7 KB)
O.jpg
(221.8 KB)