Yet again, I feel I have to justify Breitling as a top end brand in the watch world. I’ve long admired them, found plenty of models to lust after, purchase and further respect, especially with undisputed Icons like the Navitimer. But I can’t ignore the fact that while Breitling is a popular brand, it also has its critics. The two main criticisms that always appear to crop up again and again are, “highly polished cases and bracelets make the watches to bling”, and “underneath an expensive watch case, lies a humble ETA movement”.
I can’t say I’ve ever had too much of a problem with either. In general, most of my past Breitlings have had brushed rather than polished Stainless Steel or Titanium finishes, and while the movements have been from ETA, they are recognised workhorses and chronometer certified for reliability and accuracy. None-the-less, my latest arrival goes a long way to eliminate these criticisms and perhaps, silence the critics...
Accepting that the polished or brushed finish of a watch is a style that customers buy in to based on their preference and choice, that, can’t really be argued or denied, meanwhile, the ETA movements on an expensive watch is a strategy not only used exclusively by Breitling. Tudor, a sister company of Rolex use out-of-house technology, IWC certainly utilise bought in movements, as do Omega, to name a few, but now Breitling have joined these companies in offering in-house movements for the higher end of their product range.
The flagship of the range, the Breitling Chronomat carries the B01 movement, the main focus of the excellent Breitling Super Factories video on YouTube. While I’m not going to pretend that I understand every aspect of the COSC approved, 47 jeweled caliber with column wheel switching mechanism, vertical clutch, flat hairspring and smooth balance wheel, I can report what matters to me. Excellent accuracy, the longest power reserve I have ever owned at over 70 hours from a single barrel, and a quirk of instantaneous date change. No worries here as to when you can change the date, even close to midnight. All running smoothly at 28,800vph with peace of mind in a 5 year warranty.
My particular version of the Chronomat, is the “Flying Fish”. It’s a 44mm diameter, 16.95mm thickness, weighing in at a reassuring 128.6g. The flying fish is a signature edition of Herbert Nitsch - the current free diving world record holder. While I’m not a follower of his records, his input has made what I believe to be one of the best looking Chronomats. The all black dial and exclusive finishing makes for a less blingy version of this satin/brushed and polished case.
The first thing that struck me about this watch, was the quality and attention to detail. The build looks flawless to my eye. Everything about it is crisp and has an incredibly solid feel. A comment was made to me that, “it was equal to a Daytona in terms of quality, fit and finish”. I’d have to agree. The black dial has a great depth and very subtle detailing, most especially the ribbed square located in the centre of the dial and the slightly more accentuated ribbed detailing in the sub dials. It’s a design that never gives up all the intricacies unless viewed in strong lighting. Compared with my first photo, look at how everything changes when tipped towards the light, the whole watch comes to life.
Perhaps not so subtle is the polished applied indices and large handset, but the all red second hand, the red font of ‘500M/1650FT’ water resistance and matching ‘TACHYMETRE’ just gives the perfect contrast. Another nod to the quality is the silky smooth uni-directional bezel, but equally it could also be the most controversial part of the design. The 70’s/Buck Rogers style font that is used isn’t going to appeal to everyone, it didn’t to me at first, but it has really grown on me, what’s more, it doesn’t stand out nearly as much as you expect. The divers bezel may have lost the traditional Breitling rider tabs, but it is still nice and easy to turn with a large tritium pearl.
Yet again, Breitling have created a near invisible sapphire crystal with the double sided anti-reflective coating, although the domed crystal itself is a really pleasant part of the whole design. The screw down crown is different to any other Breitling I’ve owned in design, probably best decribed as a Terry’s Chocolate Orange, meanwhile, the chronograph pushers are also screw down. It all helps add up to the water resistance of 500m, but if I’m honest, I struggle to see this as a diver. There’s no denying, it has diving capabilities, but it just doesn’t have a diver feel to me. much like the older Blackbird Big Date.
This is a watch that feels like, and is finished, like it was designed to come on a strap. Yes, you can buy it with the hideously expensive pilot bracelet, but without fitted endlinks, I feel it is more at home on a strap. I’ve always been a fan of Breitling straps, so no doubt, this will be swapped around often, between the OEM Calf Leather with Deployant, the Pro II Rubber that it is supplied on, and I’ll hunt out a Brown Calf at some point. If you wanted to dress it up, I’m sure it would be equally at home on one of the OEM Croc’s too.
I’m struggling to find points to criticise on this watch. It’s not too blingy. It has a superb movement. The quality is top notch. It wears noticeably smaller and thinner than my previous Seawolf’s and therefore has more versatility. It doesn’t feel like a diver yet has incredible water resistance. Maybe you can criticise the price..? The RRP of this on Leather Deployant is a tenner short of £6k, or if you choose it on Rubber, £5770. Too high? Well, let’s remember that around 20% discount is easily achievable on a Breitling, unlike many other brands, bringing it near to mid £4k, but it has all boxes ticked, and backed up with a confidence inspiring 5 year warranty...
...I love it.