Venue list updated May 2014
A fair bit of time has passed since my last Friday Delicious on FBi Radio and for those who don't stalk me on Twitter or Instagram, I didn't die. I've been busy getting my hands dirty in Tasmania while Myffy Rigby, food editor at Time Out Sydney has been filling in for me, along with a host of brilliant Sydney chefs including Jared Ingersoll, Darren Robertson and Dan Hong.
Why did I leave Sydney for wilder climes? To put it plainly, Sydney really got to me, and not in a good way.
Don't get me wrong - I love my home town of Sydney. It has a dynamic food scene, some nice people and some tasty drinks. But every once in a while, we need a reality check - our view of produce and how hard it is to cultivate/rear/kill/process/deliver is pretty screwed up at times. Take for example, the locavore chef who wants 200 lamb rumps per week from a small holder producer a few hundred kms away. Not going to happen, buddy - do you KNOW what small holding is about? But really, It's no surprise. We live in a city where we can pretty much access anything we want, whenever we want it and without it costing a whole lot. I'm not knocking urban apiarists, restaurant kitchen gardens growing their own herbs or inner city community gardens, but this isn't where the real produce industry happens.
I know it's disgustingly trendy these days to go foraging but more seriously, it seemed to me to be disingenuous to talk the talk day in and out [about high end restaurants and brilliant produce], without walking the walk... at least for a little while, I figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to walk a mile in someone else's trashed work boots, or something to that effect. So I ended up being taken in by some pretty generous folk in that tiny, stunning island we call Tasmania.
I managed to crash with the good people at Grandvewe Cheeses down in Birchs Bay, about 45 minutes south of Hobart. The only organic sheep dairy in the country, Grandvewe produces some pretty crazy and delicious cheeses, made by Diane Rae and her daughter Nicole Gilliver (also a rather impressive cheese judge and flathead fisherman), her wonderful team of WWOOFERS and their very cool family. God knows why, but they let me milk their sheep, pour yoghurt, make cheese, learn about affinage first hand... and the holes in their Sapphire Blue cheese? That was totally me.
And that's just the tip of the iceberg. From working in an abattoir to picking chestnuts, I've been blown away by the warmth and complete lack of bullshit offered up by the good people of Tasmania and I'm the better for it.
This is not an advertisement for Tourism Tasmania, by the way. But if you do love food, I encourage you to occasionally consider where it comes from and if you're able, go out there and discover how the hell it gets from the ground, into your face. You'll find that producers are genuinely pleased to show you, and who knows, you might learn a thing or two.
So what have I learnt about Tasmania? Well, a lot. In part, where's good to eat, shop and play. So below is an evolving list of places I've responded to friends with, upon receiving the "So, I'm coming to Tasmania...where should I go?" email.
These kinds of emails from friends are what made me decide to start a blog all those years ago when I was working in advertising and trying to decide what content I'd use to see how blogs tick. And while I have huge issues with blogging, bloggers and how that whole can of worms squirmed its way into a more distasteful place than I could ever have the stomach for, occasionally I still hope I can use what remains of mine to share the odd (spell checked, somewhat edited) thought.
Restaurants:
Tip #1. In regional towns (Hobart is not a city, it's a large town), if something is good, you probably need to book it when it comes to dinner. Especially on public holidays and weekends. Don't go down there thinking you'll be able to rock up and charm the door bitch, there isn't one. And there's not much you can do if the house is jammed. If you are unsure, call ahead of time and ask to avoid disappointment.
Tip #2. Most venues close fairly early (again, a town), so check hours of operation to avoid disappointment. Salamanca is your best bet for late night boozing, if you like being part of the crowd.
Tip #3. Do not expect everything to be bustling in the town centre on weekends. Hobart's central district is a bit of a ghost town on Saturdays and Sundays, so don't head down expecting a noisy metropolis. Visit the Hobart Farmgate market for breakfast, grab some supplies, hire a car and go exploring instead.
Garagistes
Irrefutably the best thing going in dining in Tasmania. Progressive dining in a dynamic atmosphere, paired with carefully curated wines, if you're eating one meal in Hobart, make it this one.
103 Murray St, Hobart TAS 7000
(03) 6231 0558
www.garagistes.com.au/
The Mercury
As of May 2014, chef/legend/dude David Moyle is eminently due to give birth to a restaurant in Hobart, which will no doubt blow most things out of the water. Watch this space.
93 Macquarie Street, Hobart TAS 7000
The Source
MONA's fine diner, a little more traditional so far as a white linen experience, if you're into that sorta thing.
655 Main Rd, Hobart TAS 7010 (03) 6277 9900
http://www.mona.net.au/mona/restaurant
The Standard Burgers
The closest thing you'll find to a hipster burger in Hobart. As such, you'll find it in an alleyway behind their other venues on Argyle Street. Expect a bearded, skinny jean wearing queue.
Alleyway near 48 Argyle Street, Hobart (behind their sister venues Pilgrim and Pilgrim Next Door)
https://www.facebook.com/standardburgers
Pilgrim Next Door
If you like your breakfast and lunch with a side of fancy, here's the place you'll get it. Owner Will Priestly's knack for picking up and repurposing awesome industrial and commercial finds means a fun, dynamic space in which to consume some of the prettiest looking food you're likely to hoover for breakfast. Cafe in one door, eats through the other.
48 Argyle St Hobart TAS 7000
(03) 6234 1999
https://www.facebook.com/Pilgrim.Coffee
Ethos Eat Drink
A casual eatery focusing on local and seasonal food, treated sparingly so you an appreciate the beauty of Tasmania's spectacular produce.
100 Elizabeth Street Hobart TAS 7000
(03) 6231 1165
ethoseatdrink.com/
Crumb St Kitchen
An unapologetically Tasmanian take on American BBQ. Expect slow and smoked brisket, pulled pork rolls, slaws, sodas and paper plates. It's fun, casual and tasty fare with a bit of yankee flair.
144 Harrington Street, Hobart, TAS
(03) 6234 7002
www.facebook.com/CrumbStreetKitchen
Chulo
A Latin-esque cafe where you'll find morcilla with your eggs, tortillas rather than toast, and Hobart is the better for it. They are sometimes here at their fixed address, and at other times, manning their food truck around the place.
98 Patrick Street, Hobart, TAS
http://www.chulocafe.com/
Asian Fix:
It's worth noting that you will not find mind blowing Asian food in Tasmania, period. But if you are after a little Asian flavour, here are a few respectable places to do so. Me Wah is head and shoulders above, with an award winning wine list, it emulates the Flowerdrum Melbourne vibe in a provincial way.
Me Wah
Modern Cantonese in the vein of Flowerdrum in Melbourne. There's an unexpectedly awesome winelist, as well as yum cha on weekends and as with anything vaguely good in Hobart, bookings are recommended.
16 Magnet Ct Sandy Bay TAS 7005
(03) 6223 3688
www.mewah.com.au
Rin
It's depressing that most of the incredible seafood produce Tasmania produces doesn't stay here. And what does is basically salmon or tuna, because there is such low demand from locals on anything more adventurous (cue the hoards of angry food loving locals). You won't find uni, kingfish sashimi or anything of that ilk here, but it's cute, it's Japanese and it's worth going for a fix if you're ailing. Now open for dinner some nights as well as lunch most days.
167 Harrington St, Hobart TAS 7000
0427 634 574
www.facebook.com/pages/RIN/194593720673778
Written on Tea
Think Chinese Noodle Restaurant in Sydney and you're close. Written on Tea presents rustic, slightly greasy Shanghai-style handmade dumplings and noodles, fish fragrant eggplant and beans with black beans and pork mince, get the picture? Now operating on Bathhurst Street in Hobart, as well as their original shop in Sandy Bay.
Shop 8/236 Sandy Bay Rd Hobart TAS 7005
(03) 6223 3298
www.writtenontea.com
Sawak Cafe
A cafe serving up Malay and Chinese food in the heart of the city. Avoid the Chinese stuff and head straight for Penang char kway teow and other Malacca Straits style food and you'll come away happy.
131 Collins Street Hobart, Tasmania, 7000
(03) 6234 3622
Hejo's
A smattering of Sichuan cuisine, with a few dumplings thrown in for good measure.
80 Elizabeth Street Hobart TAS 7000
(03) 6234 6131
www.hejos.com.au
Cafes:
Ginger Brown
Cranking out respectable coffee and inventive and delicious breakfasts worthy of favourable comments from one Mr N Perry on an Instagrammed breaky or two of mine in this establishment, Ginger Brown is located in slightly further flung South Hobart, though worth the walk up the hill.
464 Macquarie South Hobart, Hobart, TAS
(03) 6223 3531
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ginger-Brown-Cafe/251311604926180
Pigeon Hole
West Hobart's coolest offering during the day. Head there for coffee, artisan baked goods and sometimes slightly left of centre breakfast and lunch options. They do/did a mad grilled cheese, too. Hobart's much loved breaded couple Emma and Jay recently sold the cafe but kept the wholesale bakery, but this place keeps on keeping on.
93 Goulburn St West Hobart TAS 7000
(03) 6236 9306
Tricycle
If you're in Salamanca, look no further for excellent brunch fare and killer coffee. It's near Matt Evan's hole in the wall larder store if you feel like a little local television star stalking.
77 Salamanca Pl Hobart TAS 7000
(03) 6223 7228
http://www.sac.org.au/eat-drink
Ecru
Not just a shade of beige. A hole in the wall coffee spot in the middle of the city (big small town).
18 Criterion Street Hobart
www.facebook.com/ecrucoffee
Pulp Friction
Tasty vegetarian lunch fare, green smoothies, nourishing things and stuff can be found here. Kale chips. Some people like 'em.
Shop 5, 110-114 Collins Street, Hobart, TAS/Mathers Lane, Liverpool Street
0400 252 506
https://www.facebook.com/PulpFrictionJuiceBar
Bars and pubs:
Sidecar
Hobart is better for its existence. Americanos, tasty snacks and a banging wine list focusing on natural wines. Think of it as Garagiste's diffusion label. If you can't afford Prada, this is Miu Miu. Build an entire meal from the list of regularly changing snack menu while you sip your way through some of the best wine available in Tasmania (pretty much all French, so that tells you something about the state of Tasmanian wines), or stop off for a drink and a bite before heading elsewhere.
129 Bathurst Street Hobart
(03) 6231 1338
http://www.garagistes.com.au/sidecar/
The Pumphouse
I am scarred by a venue of the same name that used to be in Darling Harbour when I was a kid, but don't let that hold you back. This venue is adjacent to Garagistes and offers up a pub vibe with food that's decidedly better than your average pub bistro, Boo Boo.
105 Murray Street, Hobart TAS 7000
(03) 6234 7339
www.pumphouse.com.au
The Winston
Americana food in a pub environment with a specialist craft beer list and occasionally live music. If you want buffalo wings and small batch beers, get it here. Kris's wife is from the US, so it's legit, innit.
381 Elizabeth Street, Hobart, Tasmania 7000
Grape
If you can stand the swirling crowds of tourists and the young after 5 work crowd, you can find a few decent drops here if you look or ask hard enough. Ask hard.
55 Salamanca Pl Hobart TAS 7000
(03) 6224 0611
www.grape.net.au
Nant Whisky Bar
Whisky sours a-go-go, try to close your eyes and forget the lack of atmosphere.
Shop 3G/63 Wooby's Lane Salamanca, Battery Point Tas, Australia, 7004
nantdistillery.com.au/
Lark's Distillery
Booze and live music is rarely a bad thing. Unless you're teetotaler. Then it's probably a little bit annoying at times. Lark's often totes live music and food stalls on Fridays, so rug up and stand outdoors for the quintessential Tasmanian experience, or head inside to warm up and meet a mean fiddler.
14 Davey St Hobart TAS 7000
(03) 6231 9088
www.larkdistillery.com.au
Produce:
Hobart Farmgate Markets
Are on Sundays. If you love great produce, eating while standing and meeting producers who grow the food you're about to take home and cook, then this is a musn't miss. Look for the ethereal Paulette Whitney for Provenance Grown who is one of the most passionate and gifted growers that ever there was. You will also find Masaaki's Sushi most Sundays, smallgoods and sauces from Ross O'Meara, Elgaar dairy products and a range of other lovely people pimping their wares.
49 Melville St Hobart TAS 7000
(03) 6234 5625
farmgatemarket.com.au/hobart-2/
Grandvewe Cheeses
Australia's only organic sheep's cheesery, situated in the picturesque Birchs Bay. Worth taking the drive down for a sheep's milk coffee or ice cream. Watch cheese making on Tuesdays or have someone from the crew take you through a tasting (free) before you meet the ladies who make it all happen (the flock).
59 Devlyns Rd Birchs Bay TAS 7162
(03) 6267 4099
grandvewe.com.au
The Agrarian Kitchen
People regularly fly in from interstate just to attend one of Rodney Dunn's fully booked cooking, butchery or other culinary workshops. And justifiably so. It's a beautifully created space in which to do so.
650 Lachlan Rd Lachlan TAS 7140
(03) 6261 1099
www.theagrariankitchen.com
Hobart accommodation:
The Residences - luxe to moderate depending on the apartment
137 Macquarie St Hobart TAS 7000
(03) 6224 8917
www.theresidences.com.au
The Islington - luxe boutique hotel
321 Davey St South Hobart TAS 7000
(03) 6220 2123
www.islingtonhotel.com
Quayle Terrace - self contained cottage
51 Quayle Street
Battery Point
www.quayleterrace.com.au
Alabama Hotel - budget with a rockabilly edge
L1, 72 Liverpool St, Hobart TAS 7000
www.alabamahobart.com.au
Food stores:
Bottega Rotolo
Excellent for picking up everything from Ortiz anchovies to Valrhona chocolate, French and Italian cheeses and all the trimmings. If you're cooking a meal for someone you like or packing a picnic and hoping to get lucky, look no further.
141 Bathurst St, Hobart TAS 7000, Australia
(03) 6234 9978
www.bottegarotolo.com.au
Wing & Co
A conveniently located Asian grocery mecca in the heart of Sandy Bay. I tested recipes while writing Dan Hong's upcoming book Mr Hong while living in Tasmania and couldn't have done it without this place. From white soy to conpoy, Chinkiang black vinegar and Lao Gan Ma chilli oil, if you can't find it here, they'll happily order it from the mainland for you.
6 Russell Crescent, Sandy Bay TAS 7000
(03) 6234 5887
www.wingandco.com.au/hobart
Cool Wines
If you have great taste in wine, then this is pretty much the only place you should be looking to buy wine while you're in Hobart unless of course you hit up Sue & Roger from Living Wines with enough time to spare (Sue & Roger import some of France's best natural wines to Australian restaurants of worth, but you can subscribe and purchase by mail order). Cool Wines stocks interesting drops from Australia and abroad, so if you're looking for something worth of that epic rib eye, this is probably the place you will find it.
Shop 9, Midcity Arcade
Criterion Street, Hobart TAS 7000
www.coolwine.com.au
Elizabeth Street Food & Wine
A good selection of locally produced wine and beer, as well as a small selection of fresh produce including meat, cheeses and also dry goods. There's a cafe/wine bar for eating in, as well.
Elizabeth Mews Fine Food Centre
285 Elizabeth St North Hobart TAS, Australia
(03) 6231 2626
Mako Fish Shop
Why aren't there more fishmongers in Hobart? Because most people catch it themselves. If you can't, or can't be bothered, this store is a reliable source of fresh seafood, smoked fish and there's a fish bar if you don't want to do the dirty work yourself.
Elizabeth Mews Fine Food Centre
285 Elizabeth St North Hobart TAS, Australia
(03) 6234 5977
Huon Valley Meats
Run by butcher entrepreneur wunderkind and close friend, James Lord runs a meat business online with a produce pick up hole in the wall in Hobart on Sundays. If you're in town for more than a few days and plan to cook, order your meat online and pick it up, conveniently portioned so you can head off camping or to your shack for the week. The best value local meat produce you're going to find in these parts. If you're craving the blue ribbon stuff when you get home, he delivers Tasmania's best lamb straight to your doorstep via his other website cradoc-hill.com.au.
www.huonvalleymeats.com.au
Alleyway opposite the State Library
Murray Street, Hobart TAS 7000
Outside of Hobart, but nearby:
Peppermint Bay
Chef David Moyle knows a thing or 17. Catch the boat from Hobart for a long, boozy lunch - The fine diner is now closed as he works on his Hobart project with the owners of Peppermint Bay, but the bistro food is still worth the drive/boat for a meal by the water.
3435 Channel Hwy Woodbridge TAS 7162
(03) 6267 4088
http://www.peppermintbay.com.au/food_pb.php
Lotus Eaters Cafe
Get here bang on 9am if you want a snowball's chance in hell of getting breakfast, no matter who you are, sir. These ladies don't give a damn. Utilising much local produce, the women of Lotus Eaters are a beautiful and charming part of Cygnet's vibrant community and one of the reasons I love my adopted town so much.
10 Mary St Cygnet TAS 7112
(03) 6295 1996
https://www.facebook.com/pages/the-lotus-eaters-cafe/123892878401
Willie Smith's Ciderdoor and Apple Museum
A newly luxe revamped version of the old Apple Shed Museum that has stood in this place since anyone can remember, cider heads and hipsters should stop here for a tasting, lunch, or both. Pick a designated driver and chug down on that whiskey barrel-aged cider, son.
Huon Highway, Huonville, TAS
Masaaki's
This place is worth the drive if only to see how incongruous if feels to exist in such a town. Incredibly fresh sushi using local ingredients like short spined uni and trumpeter. Masaaki regularly goes diving for many of the marine ingredients himself and is the most effusive, generous person you're likely to meet in this otherwise Deliverance-inspired ex-logging boom town. Only open Fridays and Saturdays, and catch him at Hobart Farmgate Markets on Sundays.
20B Church St Geeveston TAS 7116
0408 712 340
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Masaakis-Sushi-Geeveston/133400560012836
Shopping:
Oyster & Pearl
Locally designed clothes, beautifully sourced fabrics from around the world.
Level 1, 147 Liverpool Street, Hobart TAS 7000
http://oysterandpearl.com.au
Belle & Paige
Australian designer threads.
147 Liverpool Street, Hobart TAS 7000
www.belleandpaige.com
Hello Gorgeous
Well curated vintage clothing and accessories.
43 Barrack Street, Hobart, TAS
0403 946 484
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Hello-Gorgeous-Vintage/107033342673026
Luxe
Brands like Jac + Jack (for a little extra cashmere if you're cold), and a few other high end brands.
134 Liverpool St Hobart TAS 7000
(03) 6236 9898
http://www.luxestore.com.au/
...and of course, there's MONA, which predictably fits into pretty much all of the above categories in some way.
651-655 Main Rd Berriedale TAS 7011
(03) 6277 9900
http://www.mona.net.au/