Amidst the lush, rolling hills of Aberdeenshire, Scotland, Sudeshna Ghosh discovers some unexpected culinary gems, all sharing a farm-to-fork ethos. Here is her curated guide to enjoying the Royal Deeside region in all its glory.
People go to Scotland for many things… the historic castles, breathtaking natural beauty, golf, and distilleries, but food may not be the foremost thing on most minds. Known as the land of the hugely divisive haggis, Scotland’s cuisine may not have been its main export, but it really should be.
The riverine hilly landscape provides a bounty made up of fresh, delicious produce from both the land and the sea, that lend themselves to some excellent food that more and more chefs and restaurants are celebrating.
In Aberdeenshire, one of the prettiest parts of the country, with the North Sea running along its length, and plentiful lakes and rivers criss-crossing the undulating landscape, not only will you be treated to stunning vistas, but some delightful food as well. With its stellar reputation for some of the finest produce in the world – this is after all, home of the famed Angus beef – paddock-to-plate eating is a way of life here.
Explore this pretty pocket of Scotland with our guide to the best places to eat, visit, and stay. You’ll be in good company – the British royal family’s summer home, the Balmoral Castle, is set along the river Dee, giving this region the nomenclature of Royal Deeside.
Dine…
Banchory Lodge (www.banchorylodge.com) is an intimate, historic boutique hotel set right on the banks of the river Dee, that bills itself as a ‘restaurant with rooms’ (See ‘Dream…’). The building dates back to the early 1800s, but a recent revamp brings it bang up to date as a chic yet unpretentious space.
The restaurant evokes the feel of a dining room in a wealthy home, complete with cosy sofas, decorated mantelpieces, and photo wall-style wallpapers, while large windows offer unrivalled views of the river and its grassy banks where, in the right season, you can see wild salmon leaping into the air as they make their perilous way upstream to spawn – a wondrous sight indeed.
Head chef Scott Stephen serves up a delicious seasonal menu using the freshest, finest local produce (but the salmon from the river is left alone, don’t worry!). Whether it’s the Scottish specialty Cullen Skink (a hearty, creamy seafood soup of smoked haddock, leek and potatoes); Highland venison, which showcases regional game ideally complemented by butternut squash, spring cabbage, and thyme jus; or Roasted cod with risotto, smoked mussel, and fennel, each dish proves the restaurant worthy of its popularity. They also specialise in grilled meats, including a delectable Angus burger, and an impressive Cote de Beouf, and their dessert selection of classics such as Chocolate fondant and Panna cotta make the ideal ending to a meal that won’t be out of place in a fine dining restaurant in any of the world’s culinary capitals. Just be warned, the portion sizes are more Scottish than anything else – read: massive – and the friendly staff appear to truly enjoy feeding people, so bringing along your appetites is a must.
For lighter bites and drinks, however, their buzzing bar – echoing the modern yet vintage vibe with cosy booths, leather sofas, and a strikingly colourful wooden floor – is perfect. There’s also an outdoor terrace that overlooks the river, and is made comfortable with blankets and heaters on cooler evenings, where you can enjoy creative cocktails and craft beers, alongside delicious nibbles such as langoustines with garlic mayonnaise, and Venison sausage rolls.
For the quintessential Scottish country inn experience, but with a gourmet twist, you can’t go far wrong with Kildrummy Inn (www.kildrummyinn.co.uk). The historic inn set amidst the pastoral Aberdeenshire countryside has enjoyed a rich history since it was built in the mid-nineteenth century – which has been carefully preserved in its lounge, which is crammed with antique bric a brac, and overstuffed sofas by the fireplace – but in recent years, is developing a pedigree of a different sort thanks to its kitchen.
Award-winning chef David Littlewood, who co-owns the property, has carved out a formidable reputation for this as a destination restaurant, thanks to his passion for provenance – he truly celebrates the local larder, down to being able to tell diners the name of the boat which caught the fish they’re about to eat, the morning of the meal!
Expect dexterously executed and artfully presented dishes such as Breast & confit chicken wing, with puy lentils and fondant potato; Rock turbot fillet with langoustine cannelloni, bisque, wilted lettuce and peas; and Inverlochy vintage smoked salmon with compressed cucumber, capers, quails egg, and wasabi emulsion, that pay homage to traditional flavours while employing modern techniques, and allow the excellence of the ingredients to really sing through.
As appears to be the norm around here, they offer accommodation too, with just four bedrooms upstairs, but it is their food that they have rightfully earned a reputation for.
Those looking for an upscale, luxury dining experience should definitely check out Meldrum House Country Hotel (www.meldrumhouse.com). Nestled within a 240-acre privately owned estate, the golf resort is a definite winner in the history stakes, with its lineage being traced back to the 13th century. But, a multi-million pound redevelopment has given the property a distinctly contemporary finish, evident in the stylish restaurant, which offers an unexpected slice of fine dining in the deepest countryside.
Here too, there is a regularly changing menu highlighting local ingredients, with the sophisticated dishes including Scottish lobster; the deceptively simple yet delicious wild mushrooms on toast; Gresingham duck; and of course, the finest cuts of succulent steak, sourced from nearby Oldmeldrum town.
Work off the meal (or work up an appetite) with a walk around the grounds, where manicured gardens, ponds, and a couple of resident bovines – safely ensconced in their pen – await, or indeed, with a spot of golf. When in Scotland, after all!
On the opposite end of the spectrum, offering a truly rustic, old-world experience is Loch Kinnord hotel (www.lochkinord.com), located near the town of Ballater, close to Balmoral castles. The slightly faded elegance of the hotel and dining room sets the tone for the meal which is good, old-fashioned country fare – think hearty Pea soup, and Roast cornfed chicken with parsnip puree and creamed leek – using, once again, produce from around the region. In fact, the menu mentions some of the producers the chefs work closely with, including prize-winning Aberdeen Angus from a local family farm; Sheridan butchers, who supply to the Balmoral castle; and artisanal local cheeses.
Do…
While it is perfectly fine to choose to not do very much other than soak in the scenery, go for forest walks, and curl up with a book on the riverside when here, you could also truly embrace the country life.
Glentanar Estate (www.glentanar.co.uk) is a family-owned estate spread over 95,000 acres of lush landscapes of the Cairngorms National Park. The working estate has been in the same family since 1905, and has played host to many a royal and dignitary in its historic heyday, and today, apart from having farmlands, has been opened up for wildlife tourism, including fishing expeditions, deer stalking, and Land Rover safaris.
A Land Rover tour with one of their knowledgeable rangers for a guide is a great way to get a lay of the land, as you drive past little lochs, heather-clad moors, and Caledonian pine forests, taking in the breathtakingly beautiful scenery. You’ll get to learn about the indigenous highland flora and fauna, view the resident osprey nests, and if you’re lucky, spot a Golden eagle or some grouse and wild deer too.
It’s the sort of place where you are guaranteed a Nat Geo-worthy photograph wherever you turn! A little picnic stop of tea and cake in the forest completes the experience, but if you want to stay a little longer, they also have holiday cottages on-site.
No visit to Scotland is complete without a visit to Balmoral Castle (www.balmoralcastle.com), the royal family’s holiday home, which is open for tours when the family isn’t in residence. Walking through the vast grounds and landscaped formal gardens, steeped in history, you can be forgiven for mistaking yourself for a character in a Jane Austen novel! Audio guides are available to provide nuggets of information on the history of the buildings and little throw-backs to life in the past, and a small exhibition in the ballroom showcasing items from the queen’s wardrobe, dining set-ups, and vintage photographs offer a rare peek into the royal lives; most of the windows in the castle are boarded up, even when unoccupied, to afford privacy. There is a lovely little café and gift shop on the grounds to make for a comfortable day out.
Right next door is the Royal Lachnagar distillery, one of the highland’s oldest artisanal whisky makers, that also offer tours and tastings for those inclined.
Dream…
For a restful night’s sleep that ends with the soundtrack of twittering birds and the gentle gurgle of the river Dee waking you up, you can’t go far wrong with Banchory Lodge. Housed in a historic Grade-II listed Georgian building, the lodge is a tranquil slice of paradise set on a little turn-off from one of the main streets of the picturesque little town of Banchory – known as the gateway to Royal Deeside – that manages to still feel like a remote country retreat.
Carefully refurbished to maintain its Baronial charm, while infusing it with a modern, quirky aesthetic, the intimate, historic hotel boasts the distinction of being the only one in the region to be set right on the riverbank. Spacious comfortable rooms offer all the mod cons you need, while keeping the historic nuances intact, and eager-to-help service make you feel right at home. Food plays a starring role in the experience here, whether it’s the lavish breakfast-with-a-view, or gourmet dinners (see above).
Banchory Lodge also has a detached six-bedroom house next door that can be booked privately for large groups – making it popular for weddings and events – and separate private dining areas.
Room rates start from GBP135 per night, visit www.banchorylodge.com.
Foodie finds
Gourmet travellers who want to bring home a taste of Scotland’s fantastic food and produce won’t be disappointed. Many cafes and delis stock locally made jams, preserves, relishes and more, and you can also find plenty of farmers’ markets on weekends around local towns. Not to be missed are the traditionally hand-crafted cheeses from Cambus O’May, which come in some unique smoky flavours – available from select stores across Scotland, www.cambusomay.com.
Also worth checking out is Barra Berries, a family-run farm that has a store and café selling their range of strawberries, raspberries, and blueberries, plus freshly made berry concoctions, from ice creams to pastries, right by their farm in oldmeldrum, where they also offer farm tours on occasion.
Words by Sudeshna Ghosh