We are back with a few thoughts to ponder as the weekend approaches. Our first item covers what may merely be a discussion of semantics regarding what makes someone a style icon, our second previews fall styles from a label the Duchess favors, LK Bennett.
In our previous post we wrote about Kate’s inclusion in the Best Dressed Hall of Fame. Following news that the Duchess was named to this group I enjoyed reading a column in the Sydney Morning Herald by Elizabeth Clarke titled “Why Kate Middleton is not a Style Icon.” From that piece:
I ask myself: why? Is it right that Kate be ‘’lauded the most polished, eclectic and stylish of dressers’’? Is it appropriate that she be rubbing shoulder pads with the likes of Anna Piaggi, Karl Lagerfeld and Catherine Deneuve? Do cap-sleeved shift dresses, nude hose and cork wedges a fashion icon make? Not in my style bible.
Not that it’s Kate’s fault; she never set out to be a fashion icon. She has been popped on a pedestal and expected to be one.
That is very much the case: Kate did not ask to be thought of as a fashionista, although she clearly developed her own taste in clothing and accessories over the years, she has a strong sense of her own style. For instance, she likes lace; she wears pieces incorporating the the material in ways that range from a simple embellishment to the defining element in a frock.
Names that come to mind when thinking about style icons: Grace Kelly, Babe Paley, Cary Grant, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Audrey Hepburn, Coco Chanel and Nancy Reagan. It isn’t difficult to envision a specific look for each. They exemplified an individual look that is easily identifiable, even when worn by someone else, to the point that certain ensembles can evoke phrases like, “That’s so Audrey,” or “You’re looking so Jackie O!”
Part of developing an iconic look is knowing what works and what doesn’t. For example, the Duchess is comfortable in a basic shirtdress.
Splash/Splash/World Vision/Paul Harrison – Sky News/PA Wire/Splash
But when I see a woman wearing a shirtdress I don’t immediately think of Kate. Nor should I, it isn’t a look that defines her. More from the Sydney Morning Herald piece:
Kate is not and never has been a fashion girl. Nor has she pretended to be. As a young working mum juggling George, Zara sales, ribbon cutting and the odd cocktail-do, Kate dresses sensibly and practically. Sometimes only skinny JBrands and a mid-heel L.K. Bennett will do.
Considering Kate’s down-to-earth relationship with fashion, she does do her bit for the biz. She regularly wears British designers – Jenny Packham, Alice Temperley and Alexander McQueen (the latter ravishingly well). She is frugal, for a royal, subbing her wardrobe with cheap and cheerful pieces she picks up on the high street.
Below we show Kate in evening gowns from the three designers named above. From left to right she wears Temperley London, Alexander McQueen, Jenny Packham.
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Ms. Clarke covers two looks she considers winners, elements in Kate’s wardrobe she isn’t fond of, and more.
She rocks casual daywear like an off-duty supermodel. Whilst these moments may earn her a best-dressed listing, her love of electric blue lace, stretchy wrap dresses and inexpensive shoes do not.
Below, several daywear styles: all are coatdresses (or coat dresses depending upon your dictionary), something that is growing into a signature look for the Duchess at formal engagements.
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Ms. Clarke covers other reasons she does not consider Kate a style icon in her story. It merits reading in its entirety, click here for the full column.
For another perspective we turn to a 2011 piece by Simon Doonan in Slate, “What is a Fashion Icon?“:
…the term ‘fashion icon’ has become a little too inclusive. Clearly it is now being tossed around like an old Nine West handbag. If I am a fashion icon then so was Ratso Rizzo and so is Raisa Gorbachev.
Mr. Doona suggests new definitions covering seven different types of icons, including ‘Fashion Insiders,’ ‘Popular Style Icons,’ and even ‘Combo Platters’. He also makes the case for a group called ‘Royal Style Icons’:
These gals deserve their own group. Though they tend to be restrained and sometimes even downright turgid in their personal style, they are often hugely influential. In the ‘80s the ordinary woman on the street switched allegiances to Princess Diana. Now Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge, is the go-to royal. American first ladies have much in common with this group. Their discreet and excessively scrutinized fashion choices must reflect a sense of appropriateness while simultaneously communicating self-denial.
The essay offers a strong argument for allowing multiple definitions of what is iconic, click here to read the piece in its entirety.
If the definition more broadly means an individual who inspires personal style choices, someone people try to emulate, then Kate is certainly meritorious. Anther key component of Kate’s style profile: a strong sense of self, she isn’t easily influenced by the fashion industry. Kate opts for more classic looks with elegant lines, avoiding the latest fads. If the definition includes setting trends (and I think it should) then one need only look as far as the nude platform heel to check off that box on the form.
Below, another key look for Kate that we see at less formal engagements: skinny jeans. The Duchess is particularly fond of pairing the snug trousers with a wedge, a look that has the Icon-O-Meter peaking in the red zone.
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When adding the Kate Effect into the equation determining who/what qualify for icon status, wedge shoes are a must for the discussion. While a classic espadrille has always been fashionable, sales of espadrille wedges are said to have boomed since Kate was seen wearing her Pied a Terre Imperias and LK Bennett’s Greta/Maddox wedge (no longer available). The Stuart Weitzman Corkswoon added to the style’s popularity since Kate started wearing the shoe in July of 2012 (second photo from left).
Those are not the only trends Kate has influenced. While it may no longer be the case, more women wore pantyhose (known as tights in other parts of the world) following the North American tour in 2011, with sales of nude hose increasing significantly. Some cited an increase in bridal gowns with sleeves or covered shoulders following Kate’s marriage to William.
There are two influences that I think of when contemplating how Kate dresses: she is appropriate and respectful. She is considerate of the occasion and her audience when making choices about what she wears at official engagements, usually opting for tasteful, understated pieces. Unless it’s an evening gown or a very casual off-duty event Kate is fairly conservative, her arms are covered with at least a short sleeve. You don’t see hemlines hitting mid-thigh, they are closer to the knee. Kate is sensitive to her role, fully aware of the impact her appearance can have on public perceptions of the monarchy. (Whether the institution *should* be impacted by something like fashion is a discussion for another forum.)
On the flip side there are those who think Kate is too safe in her sartorial selections, that she isn’t taking risks in her fashion choices. Other miss what I refer to as Kate’s ‘pre-Palace style,’ wistfully recalling styles that were at times edgier, less conservative, maybe even a little boho. While I do not ascribe to the theory that there have been mandates from the Queen, or dictates from other quarters regarding what Kate wears, the Duchess is leaning toward styles that might be perceived as less youthful.
In closing this topic I’m curious to know what you think makes a style icon: what elements or factors should be included in such a definition or discussion? Is the Duchess a style icon in your mind? Who else is, or isn’t, iconic when it comes to fashion and style?
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Our other topic today, a look at early fall styles from LK Bennett.
LK Bennett
Styles seen above left include the Sella Embellished V-Neck Dress ($595) in ultra blue, Portia Box Clutch (£195, not yet shown as available on the US site) in silver metallic, Malea Crepe Vest ($195) in ballerina pink.
LK Bennett
Items showcased above right: the Apple Animal Print Dress in ballerina ($475), Joan Crossbody Bag in black leather ($525), what I think is the new Sasha Suede Over the Knee Boot in black (£375, about $625), the Katrina Leather Mini iPad Case ($125), the Beni Check Coat in mid-grey (£350, about $585) and the Kareena Suede Block Heel Court (£210) in dove grey.
LK Bennett
The black and white print is one the retailer is using quite a bit this fall.
LK Bennett
Also new for fall.
LK Bennett
I’ve not yet discovered any of the pieces shown above left. Styles seen above right: the Maria Tweed Jacket in black ($475), the Jackie Tote Bag in black leather ($695), Cadiz Belted Coat in scarlet red wool/poly ($750).
LK Bennett
Several more looks, almost none of these pieces are available online yet, they’re not shown on either the US/N America LK Bennett site or the UK/International site.
LK Bennett
There are many pieces that are ideal for the Duchess. The Lupina Fitted Dress in black ($395) and the Marina Fitted Dress in scarlet red ($395) have a silhouette we know Kate is fond of, they would work well in her dress collection.
LK Bennett
Additional options: the Lupin Peplum Jacket ($425) and Lupin Zip Detail skirt ($245) both in a heavier polyester weave that has 3% Elastane (similar to spandex) for stretch and ease of movement.
LK Bennett
And for anyone wondering about those LK Bennett items that have become staples in Kate’s wardrobe, they remain available; the Sledge pump ($345) and Darwin Sheepskin Coat in chocolate ($1250) seem to be well-stocked.
LK Bennett
We’ll be covering other fall collections next week.