Written by Phillip D. Johnson
Images provided by JOR, Charles van der Pear, Wood Underwear and Saxx Underwear Co.
In a very insightful article for the equally informative website, www.underwearexpert.com, Editor-in-chief Michael Kleinmann reported upon the improved outlook for the men’s underwear market in 2013 and he had a lot of valuable and potent evidence to back up his argument. While it’s true that there has been one tried and true way to take the temperature of the economy–”the shorter the season’s hemlines are, the better the economy“–the same can said for men’s underwear as an economic indicator, according to none other than Alan Greenspan, the former US Federal Reserve Chairman. (There’s also the Lipstick Index: In bad economic times, women forgo the dress or coat to buy the lipstick. The $40 lipstick is not the same as the $800 dress but she still gets that shot of luxury she’s looking for.)
The theory behind the Men’s Underwear Index (MUI) came into being in the 1970s while Mr. Greenspan was running his own economic consulting firm. In short, he surmised that the sales men’s underwear is also a good indicator of the economy because sales of necessities will rise steadily. Sales of men’s underwear typically are stable because they rank as a necessity. But during times of severe financial strain, men will try to stretch the time between buying new pairs, to 
prolong their next purchase, causing underwear sales to dip.
According to the research firm Mintel, from research conducted in 2009, the theory holds water. On average, men buy 3.4 pairs of underwear each year. (Obviously some men buy more than others. As for myself, I have so much underwear at the ready; I have a drawer full of underwear I don’t wear anymore. I never run out. Ever.) Mintel, which has kept records of men’s underwear sales since 2003, reported steady growth of sales each year until 2009. Once the recession dug in, however, the proportion of men buying single pairs increased from five to eight percent and the percentage of men choosing multi-packs fell from 68 to 66 percent, indicating men really are trying to skimp.
So it would appear that, in 2013, men are either discovering too many holes in their briefs or the economy is really rebounding at last. In the quarter ending February 2011, national men’s underwear sales were up an impressive 14 percent in dollar volume sales, according to Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at The NPD Group. Overall, the men’s apparel market was up 3.3 percent for the year 2010, which does suggest men are ready to rebuild their wardrobes.
“It’s a prolonged purchase,” said Cohen. “It’s like trying to drive your car an extra 10,000 miles.”
So what created this turnaround in sales? Many people in the industry give credit to the renewed attention to technological and design advancements, which were made possible in large part by the strengthening economy. In 2012, men’s underwear sales went up 13% according to NPD Group. Compared to the dipping underwear sales at the beginning of the recession, that is a considerable jump.
Cohen continued, “For the last couple of years, men gave women a run for their money at retail, with growth in sales of men’s apparel consistently outpacing growth in women’s. Men took fashion more seriously by adding colorful casual wear to their wardrobe.”
In my opinion, the biggest and most sustainable reason for the turnaround is really men wanting to explore the limits of what’s possible through technology and design, more so than the economy turning around. On a personal level, I have long graduated from the three-pack Fruit of the Looms briefs and advanced into realm of boxer briefs (Thank you, Calvin Klein boxer briefs!) and suppression-style, athletic-cut underwear and beyond. For me, it’s all about bold color, prints (crazy and otherwise), and pouch design; and above all else, comfort. It’s about wearing underwear so well-designed, you don’t even think about it. I have purchased underwear, AussieBum, online from Australia; which I have enjoyed over the past four years. Yep, I got intrigued by pouch design and leg opening comfort and lived to tell about it. I was even an early adopter of the H&M David Beckham Bodywear line, which is surprisingly well-made and supremely comfortable. (I have also been lusting after underwear from Garcon Model for the longest time now. However, the spirit is willing but the wallet is mighty weak at the moment.)
And I am not alone. In a world where a semi-evolved man can research a new style or brand online and buy it instantly, he’s more likely to experiment with different looks and styles than he was in the bleak days of the past when his only choice was a three pack of white briefs. Others points to men, through divorce, re-entering the dating scene and having to put their best foot forward; and women, as is their way, simply taking charge of purchasing underwear they want to see on their husbands and boyfriends.
As Bob Mazzoli, chief creative officer of Calvin Klein Underwear, told Kleinmann, “We have also seen an expansion in the breadth of color and prints offered in men’s underwear.” Mazzoli believes that men’s underwear has moved beyond its traditional role as a “replacement commodity.” It’s now a medium for expression, an extension of the self and an essential component of a man’s style.”
That the market–and men–are ready to embrace a new world order was apparent at the recent 2013 CURVExpo New York Designer Lingerie and Swim Show at Javits Center. Although CURVExpo has long been the province for women’s intimates, shapewear, and swimsuits, there was a good representation of men’s underwear designs there and not one boring ill-fitting white brief in the bunch. From Hanro to Mansilk, there was a style for every man, except maybe for those who insists on going commando. Herewith are the primarily men’s underwear brands who stood out within the small representation of companies out on the exhibition floor.
CHARLES VAN DER PEAR: A CLASSIC IN THE MAKING
“As an expat in New York,” said Karl van der Paer, “I missed the European style of boxer that has a more tailored fit. I sought to design a boxer with an inner liner to combine the support provided by a boxer-brief with the looks of a boxer.”
Charles van der Pear
Necessity is the mother of invention and it was necessary for Karl van der Paer to take it upon himself to design his own underwear. The company was founded with a novel objective: to improve men’s underwear design for fit, comfort, and style. Manufactured in New York City’s Fashion District, the Charles van der Pear collection (www.charlesvanderpear.com) is made from lightweight woven cotton shirting fabric (constructed from seven individual parts with a tailored fit both in the front and in the back). The Company’s signature product is a colorful slim-fit boxer with a unique inner support feature: A soft cotton inner liner designed to keep the package in check. The boxer also features a two-button waistband, a button fly, fitted leg holes and a fully covered elastic waist. There’s so much goodness here, you really cannot ask for more. The result is a distinctive underwear design that combines the support provided by a boxer-brief with the looks of a classic, preppy boxer. What’s not to love about all of this?
Charles van der Pear at CURVExpo New York 2013
Jarad wearing Charles van der Pear at CURVExpo New York 2013 (Phot Credit: Phillip D. Johnson/www.fashionpluslifestyle.wordpress.com)
The irony is, that the same European-cut, tailored fit that prevents me from wearing garments sold at H&M, is what makes the boxers here so damn comfortable and covet-worthy. Again, here, it feels like butta. Adding to the fun, each piece in the Premiere Collection is named after a landmark street or area in New York City: (the) Hudson (River), Christopher (Street), Wall Street, New Amsterdam (Avenue), The Standard (Hotel), Central Park, Madison (Avenue), Upper East (Side), Fifth Avenue, SoHo, Upper West (Side) and Park Avenue. Released in time for CurvExpo New York on 4-6 August 2013 and priced at $49 per boxer, the collection will be available in high-end retail stores and can be purchased online at http://www.charlesvanderpear.com.
Charles van der Pear
Charles van der Pear
Mr. van der Paer also announced the release of a brand profile video and a collection sneak peek video in honor of the launch. Both videos are now available for viewing on the company’s website (www.charlesvanderpear.com) and on Vimeo (www.vimeo.com/charlesvanderpear). In the first video, van de Paer, explains how the idea behind the Company’s signature underwear came to life. The second video was shot as part of the Company Spring/Summer 2014 collection release. To learn more about Charles van der Pear, contact Karl at karl@charlesvanderpear.com, on facebook at www.facebook.com/CharlesvanderPear, and by telephone at Tel: +1-917-375-1765.
WOOD UNDERWEAR: THE “PASSION KILLERS” SLAYER
“It’s got to look good. Its got to be comfortable.”
As Teresa Zimmerman, Creative Director of Wood Underwear (founded in 2012) told the Underwear Expert (www.underwearexpert.com), she got into the men’s underwear industry for an interesting reason: her husband asked her to. And, when she did, the former technology and commodities brand marketing professional quickly found there was a problem in the marketplace. For example, her husband couldn’t find a nice pair of “regular but stylish” underwear because it appeared to them both that all that was on the market was either low-end multipacks of tighty-whities or was too out-there, both price and design-wise. They have a valid point. Not everyone has teh body of a Greek statue but everyone wants to feel good about themselves and their body. Wood Underwear accomplishes that in spades.
“Underwear almost seems like an afterthought for men as far as fashion goes,” said Zimmerman. “These stores I’m going into will have nice fashion socks, but no underwear! And the ones they do have, it’s pretty risqué and too expensive — you know they can be very revealing. That’s not where most guys can go, in terms of finances and where their comfort zone is. So we wanted to put out a nice pair of underwear that would be approachable and accessible, at the right price point, and mainstream enough for guys to feel comfortable buying it.”
And so Wood Underwear was born, with Zimmerman stalking out the middle range of the spectrum for the brand: Not your boring tighty whitey but definitely more in the average American male’s comfort zone, which is often far from the more risqué styles we often see in the magazines. The underwear, while being devoid of the visual technological and design razzmatazz of other brands, is a wonderful piece of work just the same. To be sure, Wood Underwear is not about outward innovation, but the brand draw from a strong design source to make an attractive, well-proportioned boxer brief. It’s solidly built, covering all the problem areas in underwear design (comfortable fit, waistband not digging into your skin, etc) with a flyless pouch. I should know. I am wearing a pair of Wood boxer brief as I am writing this.
“What we wanted to do with Wood was, first of all, get men out of tighty-whities. Some of my girlfriends even refer to them as ‘passion killers,’” Zimmerman joked. “Those three-packs of briefs — I’m sure they’re fine for some period of time, but I don’t think that men are replenishing their underwear drawer nearly as often as women are.”
But with her PR and brand marketing background, Zimmerman is able to craft a larger narrative about the brand itself, the name and what it’s doing. “In terms of brand peers, we really love where Axe Bodywash goes, and Red Bull energy drinks — they’re irreverent, fun, on the edge, and everybody gets it. We were having a little fun as a way to draw a little attention — it’s a provocation, a pun-fest all over the place,” Zimmerman said. “But at the same time, wood, the actual product, is timeless, it’s everywhere, it’s flexible, and it evokes a piece of art. It’s about the most approachable material because it’s familiar to everyone all over the world: wood is truly global. And some of what we see in physical wood is what we’d like to see in the product and brand. Universal yet flexible – something that can fit in every situation.”
The brand started out offering its signature Wood Boxer Brief (available in S-XL) but has since added new collections such as the Hermosa Beach Collection. The Wood Underwear boxer brief is designed with contour fit, a closed front pouch and fabric that doesn’t ride up on the legs or butt (Amen to that!). Current designs of the Wood Underwear boxer brief (in a cotton blend) come in bold, more masculine colors such as orange (which seems to be the signature color of the brand), black, navy blue and white; although at CURVExpo, I gravitated to the booth space because I was drawn to the yellow, green, purple and other more “crayola” colors on display. I am really in color so I had to stop and investigate the scene and chat with Ms. Zimmerman and Andy, her model.
Wood Underwear Hermosa Beach Collection Undershorts
Wood Underwear
In answer to the eternal question, “Is Wood Underwear made of wood?”, Zimmerman launched the Hermosa Beach Collection, a group of underwear and undershirts produced from a wood-based fabric. “Is Wood Underwear made of wood? I get asked this all the time,” said Zimmerman. “And, yes, there is now wood in Wood. The fabric is incredibly soft and the blend ensures that it performs really well. It’s a stand up pair of underwear and we’re excited about the extended collection. And yes, the puns are always intended.”
The Hermosa Beach Collection (made from a soft fabric blend of cotton, elastane and modal*, which is derived from beach tree cellulose, available in S-XL) includes three styles with three different leg lengths: a trunk, a 3-inch brief and a 6-inch biker brief, which retail for $20 or less. The range also includes a V-neck and round-neck undershirts, which retail for $30. The collection is available in nine collegiate inspired colors such as wood orange, heather grey, navy blue, black, crimson red, forest green, yellow, royal purple and blue. These items are offered in Wood Underwear’s signature box in both single and multi-packs.Zimmerman and Wood Underwear plans to feature future collections in modal cotton blends, as well as bamboo cotton after that.
Zimmerman and Wood Underwear plans to feature future collections in modal cotton blends, as well as bamboo cotton after that. Wood Underwear, in the final analysis, is well-positioned in the industry because, while I am always ready to embrace the more outré brands, I know that I am not–nor do I want to be–a Greek Gym Rat with a 12-pack abs, muscular body to do them proper justice. (One must know one’s limitations, after all.) I look to brands such as Wood to give me comfort and a little bit of sexual heat without all of the fireworks. Sometimes that’s more than enough to get me out of bed and with the rest of my day.
* – Modal is a type of Rayon and is smooth, soft and breathes extremely well. An extremely luxurious fabric, it’s cool to the touch, absorbent and similar in texture to Silk or Cotton. Unlike Cotton, however, it is resistant to shrinkage and less likely to fade or pill. (Courtesy of the Underwear Expert Fabric Glossary)
JOR TO THE WORLD
If, as Mazzoli said, men now view underwear as a “medium for expression, an extension of the self and an essential component of a man’s style,” then Jor Underwear, a brand based in Medellin, Columbia, is well-positioned to take full advantage of the North Wind of change blowing through the industry at the moment. Founded in 2000 by Javier Ortega, former creative director of Gigo underwear, Jor Underwear is made for all men around the world who enjoy the vibrancy of the Latin spirit, and enjoy it in the form of a long lasting and durable pair of underpants.
JOR Swimwear
Ortega’s goal is to create a garment that allows men to feel 100% sexy and safe at the same time and to be able to freely express his sexuality and show of all of his hard work on his body. “As today’s man is very active from dawn till dusk, you will feel just as confident wearing Jor to the office, the gym, or out on the town,” He said. As someone who appreciates beauty in all its forms, I was struck by the bright ray of sunshine coming from the JOR booth at CURVExpo at Javits. Without overloading the space with every bit of inventory, Ortega brought enough vibrancy and material happiness with him enough to draw me in and hold my interest for a very long time.
Jor Swimwear Jungle Boxer
Jor Underwear is made with 100% Latin spirit, and all of the brand’s collections focus on comfort in fit, high quality construction, top of line fabrics (microfibers, nylon/lycra and supplex combinations, to name a few) as well as an incredible attention to style. The brand’s designs feature a wide range of striking patterns and designs essential to Latin heritage while still also offering simpler styling of underwear with solid, bold colors. Whether you go for an eye-catching design or pattern in your underwear or a bright red mesh look, there’s something here for you to enjoy, providing its wearers with complete comfortability. Jor Underwear comes in the styles of briefs, boxer briefs, boxer shorts, jock straps, as well as other undergarments like tank tops, swimsuits, board shorts and t-shirts. Overall, I am onboard to wear most everything in the collection, although I am somewhat partial to a few more so than the others.
Jor Underwear Comfort Collection
The Jor Underwear Comfort Collection, made from an extremely comfortable microfiber that offers a snug fit. Produced from 78% nylon, 3% polyester and 19% spandex, comes in three fun colors with a horizontal pattern of stripes. Currently available, the range of brief ($28.98), boxer brief ($29.98) and long boxer brief ($30.98) is offered in black, red and blue and is available in S-XL.
The Jor Galaxy Collection, featuring features a bold geometric pattern of interlinking chains, showcases a youthful, fun design and a striking contrast of the black waistband and yellow body and is made from an extremely comfortable microfiber blend, which consists of 84% nylon and 16% spandex. Currently available, the Jor Galaxy range consists of a g-string ($25.98), jockstrap ($26.98), brief ($29.98) and boxer brief ($30.98). Offering a body hugging fit and an ultra smooth feel, the collection features a contemporary look combined with a flattering cut and contour pouch.
The fabrics used are interwoven with fresh new styles to create both high fashion and functionality, according to Ortega, “My connection to colors in Colombian nature is very strong. I take incredible pride in every piece that I create and I also take much value in seamlessly capturing fit, material and design in every piece.
Jor Underwear College Boxer Brief White
The Jor Underwear College Collection– with contemporary colors combined with a youthful, athletic flair–is made from an extremely comfortable microfiber, which consists of 94% cotton and 6% spandex. The brief and boxer brief feature a body-hugging fit and an ultra smooth feel. Inspired by collegiate athletic colors and styles, this range of brief ($28.98), boxer brief ($29.98) and long boxer brief ($30.98) is offered in black and white with coordinating stripes in yellow and grey or yellow and green tapered down the garment’s side.
JOR SPIDER Underwear Black Long Boxer Brief
The Jor Underwear Spider Collection, which is presented in three fun colors, is made from an extremely comfortable microfiber, which consists of 85% nylon and 15% spandex. What’s more, the boxer brief features a body-hugging fit and a contour pouch. The range of brief ($28.98), boxer brief ($29.98) and long boxer brief ($30.98) is offered in black, white and red and features contemporary colors combined with microfiber fabric—a signature trademark of Ortega’s design talent. “Today’s man, whether in America or across the globe, is very discerning and looking for style, function, and durability. In this collection, you will find incredible comfort in fit, high quality construction in every piece, the best of Colombian fabrics and color, topped with fantastic designs.”
Jor Underwear Snow Collection
Made from an extremely comfortable microfiber blend, the Jor Snow Collection consists of 68% nylon, 26% polyester and 6% spandex in a geometric snowflake print in white and light blue. The g-string ($24.96), jockstrap, ($25.96), brief ($28.98) and boxer brief ($29.98) provide a body defining fit and an ultra smooth feel. Overall, the collection features a contemporary look combined with a flattering cut, contour pouch and sleek black waistband.
“This collection is designed to create a classic and contemporary base for Jor and the American male. Everyone of my designs includes a piece of my soul–100% Latin spirit.”
SAXX UNDERWEAR CO.: GOING WHERE FEW PEOPLE HAVE GONE BEFORE
SAXX Underwear Co. was founded on the need to make men’s underwear more comfortable. Trent Kitsch came up with the idea for SAXX while on a fishing trip off the coast of Alaska in 2006, where he experienced extreme irritation while wearing a survival suit to withstand the harsh weather conditions. He realized there had to be a better way to design men’s underwear to avoid discomfort. After returning home he began working with a fashion designer and developed the prototype for SAXX Underwear.
The main feature of SAXX underwear is the patented Comfort Side Panels that are inside the main compartment, creating a hammock-like effect for the scrotum. This comfort pouch–two parallel polyester/spandex mesh panels that offer a barrier between a man’s package and inner thigh–keeps everything in place (for real!) while preventing unwanted friction and movement to reduce chafe and allow contact-free support. In addition, the pouch has no internal seam and more room which promotes a natural resting position. Another key technological breakthrough is the Moisture Wicking Waistband that stays dry (and unyielding) and keeps performing when the temperature rises, especially in the recent days of the relentless heatwave. Paired with a wide range of cutting-edge fabrics (fine polyester, Modal, viscose, nylon and cotton), elegance meets function in what is so most important base layer of clothing.
SAXX Underwear – Ultra and Ultra Modern Fit
The Saxx underwear Fiesta collection uses the brand’s original 24-seven cotton blend, which offers an extremely smooth fit and form-fitting feel throughout the day. Made from 95% cotton and 5% spandex, the boxer brief offers a high performance stretch. The brand promotes the boxer brief to the active male who can wear the boxer brief not only during physical activities but also everyday routines while feeling comfortable and looking fashionable.
SAXX Underwear Blacksheep Longjohns
Saxx underwear’s Blacksheep collection utilizes a refined blend of modal with the regulating warmth of wool, which also offers a soft feel against the skin. The collection is made from 76% modal, 19% merino wool and 5% spandex. This unique fabric blend creates temperature-regulating properties, making the long johns an ideal choice for daily wear in cold weather climate areas. What’s more, the long johns offer chafe free support and a breathable feel.
“These new long johns are great for men who partake in outdoor sports during the cold weather such as snowboarding or snowmobiling,” John Minns, sales and marketing coordinator for Saxx underwear, told The Underwear Expert. “They are also temperature regulating. It keeps you warm when you’re cool and cool when you’re warm. It has the perfect fit. They’re going to do really well for us.”
Saxx Underwear Kinetic Collection
Saxx underwear releases its latest collection, Kinetic, developed specifically to enhance athletic comfort during long endurance workouts, which can cause irritation and chafing. Currently available, the range comes in a boxer brief ($36.95) and brief ($29.95). Saxx Underwear’s Kinetic collection is made from 85% nylon, 8% spandex and 5% polyester and uses an advance four-way stretch fabric. The boxer brief includes an articulated front pouch and parallel side-mesh panels and the microfiber mesh structure promotes airflow and moisture transfer from skin to outer surface. The boxer brief and brief also come with a jacquard waistband, no fly and white, black and grey colors with accents on the contour of the brief and the legs of the boxer brief.
Saxx Underwear Pro Elite Boxer Brief
The Saxx underwear Pro Elite collection is made from a polyester fabric blend, which offers an extremely smooth fit and form-fitting feel. Consisting of 90% polyester and 10% spandex, the collection’s high performance stretch polyester wicks away moisture and keeps you cool and dry throughout the day. The Pro Elite boxer brief comes in two different lengths: mid and long. The mid length option is one of the brand’s most popular cuts, which offers both comfort and style for those who like a slim fit, according to Saxx underwear. The long leg option falls just inches above the knees and is ideal for activities that require vigorous leg movement. The boxer brief also comes with a jacquard waistband, no fly and white and grey colors with accents on the contour pouch.
Saxx Underwear Vibe Boxer
The Saxx underwear Vibe collection is made from an ultra soft viscose fabric blend, which offers an extremely smooth fit and form-fitting feel. Consisting of 95% viscose and 5% spandex, the boxer brief offers a high performance stretch that wicks away moisture and keeps you cool and dry throughout the day. The highlight of the Saxx underwear Vibe collection is the various colors and looks, which include four pinstripes, one camouflage and three dip-dyed prints. Stripes come in purple and black, black and grey, yellow and black or yellow and teal stripes. Dip dyed prints come in purple, blue and orange.
Saxx Underwear Ultra Boxer Brief Malibu
Saxx underwear recently updates its Ultra collection (95% viscose and 5% spandex), which features a soft viscose fabric derived from a plant cellulose, with two new exciting colors. Currently available, the range, which consists of a boxer brief ($29.95), trunk ($29.95), brief ($25.95) and long john ($57.95), now comes in Malibu (shown) and light heather grey. Saxx Underwear’s Ultra collection offers an ultra smooth and soft feel and is great for moisture wicking and breathability. For added comfort, the boxer brief, trunk and brief includes an articulated front pouch, a jacquard waistband and contrasting piping accents on the contour pouch. Additionally, the long john comes with a fly opening, while the boxer brief, trunk and brief come without a fly opening.
I sampled a pair of black Ultras and let me tell you, it felt like butta. Unlike some many other brands, it didn’t ride up, the package stayed put all day. I jokingly said to Tami, Saxx’s sales rep at Javits, that if I loved it, I will go commando for the other six days of the week–and I almost meant it. Reasonably priced, I am willing to invest in buying more Saxx Underwear in the future.
Special thanks to Michael Kimelmann and the Underwear Expert blog. My research wouldn’t have been as complete if not for the fine and thorough work done by Mr. Kimelmann. I am truly grateful.
Filed under: Fashion, Men's Fashion, Men's Underwear Tagged: 2013 CURVExpo New York Designer Lingerie and Swim Show, Alan Greenspan, Bob Mazzoli, CHARLES VAN DER PEAR, Comfort Side Panels, Hermosa Beach Collection, Jor Galaxy Collection, Jor Snow Collection, Jor Underwear, Jor Underwear Spider Collection, Karl van der Paer, Marshal Cohen, Men's Underwear Index (MUI), Michael Kleinmann, SAXX Underwear Co., Saxx underwear Fiesta collection, Saxx underwear Pro Elite collection, Saxx underwear Vibe collection, Saxx underwear’s Blacksheep collection, Saxx Underwear’s Kinetic collection, Teresa Zimmerman, The Jor Underwear Comfort Collection, The NPD Group, Underwear College Collection, Wood Underwear