As soon as I saw Sandy Liang‘s collection at Start in Shoreditch the other day I fell in love with its cuteness and whipped on the grey biker with shearling arms so fast I think Lizzie in the shop thought I was going to steal it. How had I missed Sandy Liang’s Instagram friendly smiley-backed coats and pierced collar shirts not to mention my favourite items of all, her super geeky short swingy flares?
Turns out this is the 23 year old Chinese American’s debut collection, and Start is the only British store to stock the range. Of course, Sandy partly owes her aesthetic to ACNE and Sacai who have made tricking out biker jackets an art form, but she has her own thing going on too. The cute-sexy mood blowing through fashion now perfectly amplifies the fluffy and pink elements of this collection and will give the designer a solid start to her business. I chatted to her as she prepped her new collection for New York Fashion Week,
Tell me about you.
Sandy: I grew up in Queens and moved out to Manhattan after going to RISD (Rhode Island School of Design) for a semester. I transferred to Parsons and majored in Fashion Design, and graduated in May 2013.
Talk me through the influences of this Fall/Winter range – colours, fabrics, silhouette?
My FW collection was an extension of the thesis collection I made while in school. My inspirations are personal themes that I think will always be carried on in my work. I don’t think my inspirations will change just because it’s a new season, rather they’ll grow and develop in accordance with my current feelings and thoughts. Nothing should be forced! For that particular season what inspired me was: Chinatown grandmas, my version of “streetwear”, and the spirit of this girl, my girl, who lives, works, and thrives in downtown NYC.
What inspired you to start a business so soon from college?
I just felt like it was the right time. I could have started a few years later, with some more experience to rely on, but why not start now, make mistakes, and learn along the way? I knew there was a customer for my jackets and clothes, because I’m my own customer! I only design things I would want to wear, nothing more.
Talk me through your outerwear – why did you do the coat with the smiley face on the back?
It just seemed like a funny idea. I like that the front of that coat is so normal, and then the back is like “woah, what happened there?” My clothes are meant to be enjoyed, and if wearing a fuzzy oversized coat makes you happy, then I’m glad! I hope whoever is wearing it is having a great time in it. And I hope it’s something that makes her smile, especially when winter can get so dreary.
I saw that some of your pieces have piercings – tell me about that
That started with a piercing obsession of mine. I just think the idea of piercing your body is so beautiful and delicate, yet subversive and unexpected. I love that it’s so permanent, but not at the same time. But actually embellishing my pieces with piercings started my fascination with nipple rings. One day I just thought it would be so precious to adorn my clothes with the rings along with crystals. It’s like you’re piercing your clothes instead of your body. Also, it’s funny, which I will always appreciate.
Your silhouette is very specific – talk to me about your wide-leg trousers? You must feel strongly for this shape – inspiration, fabrics, what do they work with?
I call those pants my “Chinatown Grandma Pants” because they were more or less inspired by the pants that all Chinatown grandmas wear – wide leg, always showing a bit of ankle, in any colour/print you could imagine! But what really attracted me to the pants was the way the grandmas wore them- you could just tell they probably threw on the first thing they saw that day, they definitely were not thinking about it for too long. To me, that is the epitome of effortless- always going back to the same pieces, feeling good in your clothes, not trying too hard to impress anyone.
Who is the Sandy Liang girl?
I don’t design for an imaginary girl, my girl is very much real. I see her running around, working, and going out in downtown NYC all the time. Having said that, my SS15 collection is very much a continuation from my previous season. I think that’s the way I’ll always design — it’s going to be about the spirit and lifestyle of my girls. Knowing she exists and pays attention to fashion, but translates it in her own way is totally my inspiration to keep going and designing.
What are your hobbies?
Since this is my first endeavor out of school, my hobby is pretty much working- as sad as that seems. But I love it! My company is my baby and I spend a lot of time making sure everything is heading in a good direction. Sometimes it does get a bit too much.. Over the summer I would drive back to my childhood home, where grass and lawns exists (unlike Manhattan!), and do some gardening. I had strawberries, lavender, pansies, peonies, and lilies of the valley.
What is something unexpected about you?
I get weird about being called a “fashion designer” – I think at heart I still feel like I don’t know what I’m doing, which makes everything fun and less serious. I don’t want the fun to go away!
What is your ambition for the Sandy Liang collection?
I just want to make clothes that people will enjoy. From a business standpoint, I would love to have a presence in more stores internationally- but this is probably just so I could have an excuse to travel!
Who are your muses?
My muses are creative women who are happy and successful in life. I have a huge girl crush on Sofia Coppola. I saw Marie Antoinette while in high school and ever since I’ve been in love with the way she tells a story. She’s just so cool, you know? She’s a mom, she’s a businesswoman, she has such a distinct and beautiful body of work, so many reasons why I adore her. Also, the girls who are already wearing it are such amazing beautiful women. Kate Foley, Soo Joo, Aziza- they’re all so supportive and inspiring. In general, I want the girls who wear my clothes to always feel like they can rely on this particular leather jacket, or cropped pant. I know that’s how I dress- I always go back to the same pieces, the clothes that make me feel comfortable.
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