The ‘decade of disco’, the ‘era of hippie’, the Seventies, made itself known on the catwalks again this year. We saw flares, boho maxis, shearling coats and peasant blouses…
From Pucci to Burberry, Chloé to Balmain, the Seventies-influence is undeniable – with oversized jackets, billowy skirts and festoons of fringing, all featuring.
So Play That Funky Music, unleash the inner Dancing Queen, and just Let It Be, as you work that retro trend. Here are ways you’ll be doing 70s come Autumn…
1. Boho
Boho is back, and it’s big-big-big, thanks to Anna Sui and Emilio Pucci. Sui features whimiscal maxi skirts with floral prints, whilst Pucci showcases sheer pussy-bow blouses and floaty flared sleeves. Anything loose, colourful, long and lightweight meets the brief. If Forrest Gump’s ‘Jenny’ wore it, it’s allowed.
2. Flares are still in
And The Beat Goes On… as does, thankfully, the flare. Jonathan Saunders has a particularly vibrant pair in scarlet, whilst Balmain’s lace flared catsuits… miaow! Wide-legged trousers are ‘in’ too – the bigger and baggier, the better.
3. Shearling
Think ‘Penny Lane’ in Almost Famous and one’s desperation for sheepskin is almost insurmountable.
Burberry Porsum opts for shearling trim coat collars, whilst Chloé brings it back to the max, with a longline shearling overcoat.
4. Tassels Fringing
Tassels, fringing – nothing says ‘Seventies’ quite like them, and doesn’t this season know it?!
Swinging from overcoats, dresses and accessories, the collections are a veritable frenzy of fringing, with Burberry Prorsum’s suede fringe coat, acting as the most explicit example. Emilio Pucci opted for the subtler handbag fringe lining, whilst Chloé added tassels to their long-layered sheer dresses. If it tassel-tastic, go for it.
See more Autumn Winter 2015 campaigns in the gallery below…
70s
Those flares you just bought? Good shout, because the big 70s comeback is going nowhere for Autumn. Whether you’re into hippie trail bohemia or uptown 70s chic, there’s still a version of the trend to love. The models at Burberry and Anna Sui could have been mistaken for Joni Mitchell with their ditsy floral prairie dresses accessorised with fringed waistcoats and capes. At Chloe, the 70s vibe spanned from louche corduroy dungarees to peasant blouses and skinny scarves. See how to wear the 70s trend here… [From left-right: Burberry, Bottega Veneta, Jonathan Saunders, Anna Sui]
80s
The 70s wasn’t the only decade on the mood board of designers for AW15. There was also the beginnings of a move on to 80s- be warned that this trend will go mega next season. J.W Anderson in London led the brave new 80s revival with a collection which nodded to the power shoulders, colour block knits and rainbow colour combos which defined the decade of Dynasty, Bananarama and Wham! Meanwhile, Balmain and Saint Laurent sent out looks which seemed to echo early Madonna- think major ruffles, mini-length prom skirts- luckily, no perm required! [Left to right: Balmain, J.W Anderson, Saint Laurent]
Sequins and glitter
Lurex, sequins and glitter are back! After seasons of pared-back plainness, designers were up for having some shiny fun for AW15. At Proenza Schouler, one dress alone was decorated with 300,000 sequins. Rodarte’s glam-rock cocktail gowns shimmered with after-dark appeal while Julie de Libran at Sonia Rykiel somehow made embellishment look great for day by pairing her pewter sequinned pinafore with a polo neck. There was an intergalactic feel to Nicolas Ghequiere’s silver tunic with glimmering streaks of gold at Louis Vuitton.[Left to right: Rodarte, Sonia Rykiel, Louis Vuitton, Michael Kors]
Brocades
JThe ultra-luxe theme continued with a slew of shows packed with gorgeous creations which looked like they could have been run up with off cuts from the precious curtains of a stately home. Erdem set the tone in London by setting his show in a sumptuously decorated, imaginary Parisian apartment while Marques’Almeida made the look modern by styling raw-edged jewel-hued brocades in the same effortless way as their signature denim. In New York, Marc by Marc Jacobs designers Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley gave William Morris Arts and Crafts prints a fresh spin with their revolution themed collection. [Left to right: Marc by Marc Jacobs, Erdem, Marques'Almeida, Carven]
Tweed skirt suits
Karl Lagerfeld introduced a decidedly ladylike mood to PFW proceedings with his Brasserie Gabrielle show at Chanel. The uber-chic bistro set provided the perfect backdrop to tweed skirt suits paired with delicate block heeled ballerinas. The Max Mara design team took images of Marilyn Monroe cavorting on the beach as a starting point point for timeless coats and knitted separates. In London, Roksanda Illincic’s AW15 offering comprised cinched waist dresses, demure polo necks and opulent furs. Finally, legendary Vogue editor Diana Vreeland was the inspiration for Marc Jacob’s elegant midi skirts and neat jackets which all came in rich fabrics and were worn with ladylike elbow-length gloves and handbags, fabulous! [Left to right: Roksanda, Chanel, Max Mara, Marc Jacobs]
Layering
There are some trends which you’ll be able to create simply from rethinking your current wardrobe. On the AW15 catwalks, there were a myriad of witty new styling ideas. Have your ever considered teaming your favourite tea dress with a crisp shirt? Stella McCartney shows that it can work a treat. At Hermes, it was all about polo neck plus shirt plus coat while Phillip Lim made us think that the new way to keep warm in winter is to clash our parkas with our double-breasted jackets. [Left to right: DKNY, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Stellla McCartney, Hermes]
Bold graphic art prints
The most vibrant of the new season trends is the bold, graphic art-inspired mood which came in every hue imaginable at shows in all four cities. Monochromatic checkerboard prints appeared on drop-waisted dresses at Valentino while grey tunics at Loewe came emblazoned with red and black cubes. Christopher Kane’s scarlett coat with black zig-zags is bound to be an AW15 must-have. [Left to right: Christopher Kane, Christian Dior, Loewe, Valentino]
Dark Victoriana
Victorian frills and a mournful mood came together to create darkly decadent themes for AW15; Thom Browne centred his collection on the recent Met Museum exhibition ‘Death Becomes Her’ while Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen looked to the beauty and decay of a rose. Sheer fabrics, frilled details, luxurious embellishments and floor-skimming lengths are the essential components of this look. [Left to right: Givenchy, Thom Browne, Simone Rocha, Alexander McQueen]
Margot Tenenbaum
The catwalks were awash with the coolest iterations of geek chic imaginable, with Margot Tenenbaum as the main muse. Gucci designer Alessandro Michele made his debut with a collection in which girls in glasses marched the catwalks in studious tweed, timeless loafers and prim pussy bows. The look was given a more saccharine edge at Prada as cute suits came in shades of pistachio and rose, styled with crisp shirts and Mary-Jane heels. Good girls never looked so great. [Left to right: Peter Pilotto, Gucci, Prada, Bally]
Where the Wild Things are
If you thought faux-fur was big this winter then be prepared to see the trend explode- almost literally- come September. Stella McCartney’s “Fur-Free Fur” hooded coats came enormous and cream while at Louis Vuitton coats were yeti-like in white, black and leopard. Fash ed fave Sacai trimmed cosy overcoats in long brown fur panels. If fuzziness isn’t your thing, the woodland theme at Celine extended to animal printed cover-ups which chime perfectly with the wild mood. Rawwr! [Left to right: Louis Vuitton, Celine, Stella McCartney, Sacai]
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