1. DESIGNERS SPLIT WITH BIG LABELS
Raf Simons quit as artistic executive of Christian Dior. Photo: AFP
The conform attention took some large hits this year, with 5 high-profile designers interruption ways with vicious labels.
It started in Jan with Italian conform engineer Frida Giannini, 43, withdrawal Italian tag Gucci after 12 years during a company, 9 of that were spent as a artistic director.
She left a code with her partner, Gucci CEO Patrizio di Marco, amid disappearing sales and lukewarm reviews of a brand’s new collections.
The label’s conduct accessories engineer Alessandro Michele took over Giannini and has given been credited with bringing Gucci behind into a spotlight.
In June, Donna Karan, 66, owner and arch engineer of Donna Karan International, announced that she would be stepping down during her eponymous company.
While still an confidant to a association she helmed for some-more than 30 years, she now spends many of her time focused on her Urban Zen brand, that has a ready-to-wear line as good as artisanal products such as trinket and tableware.
In July, French oppulance products firm Kering announced that engineer Alexander Wang and Balenciaga had done a corner preference not to replenish their contract.
Wang, who assimilated a code in Dec 2012, worked as a artistic executive while still streamer his possess eponymous brand. The open 2016 Balenciaga uncover in Paris on Oct 2 was his last.
The biggest shock, however, came in October, when both Raf Simons and Alber Elbaz left Christian Dior and Lanvin, respectively, within a week of any other.
Simons quit as artistic executive during Dior on Oct 23, after some-more than 3 rarely lauded years with a label.
“It’s a preference founded on one palm by my enterprise to combine on other centres of seductiveness in my life, particularly my possess label, as good as a passions that motivate me over my veteran activities,” a Belgian engineer pronounced in a statement.
Elbaz’s depart from Lanvin was reduction amicable. A orator for a French tag announced on Oct 28 that “Lanvin and Alber Elbaz have finished their partnership after 14 years”. The 54-year-old Moroccan-born Israeli expelled his possess matter after that day, observant he was discharged from his position.
According to reports, his exclusion was due to flourishing tensions and disagreements between Elbaz and Mrs Shaw-Lan Wang, 73, a Chinese businesswoman who bought Lanvin from L’Oreal in 2001.
The engineer wrote in a minute to a press that his withdrawal was “the preference of a company’s infancy shareholder”, referring to Mrs Wang.
2. HOME-GROWN LABELS FOLD
Design Jo Soh of Hansel dropped her tag to concentration on her purpose as conduct of conform for Laura Ashley Asia. Photo: The Straits Times
The internal conform stage saw dual obvious home-grown labels overlay this year, both underneath opposite circumstances.
Fashion sequence M)phosis, once deliberate one of Singapore’s tip internal labels, sealed down given of “severe cashflow problems”, according to executive Hensley Teh, 53.
The label, founded in 1994, close a final opening in Singapore, during VivoCity, on Aug 25.
The closure dumbfounded many in a attention – during a tallness of a success in a early 2000s, M)phosis was Singapore’s many widely exported conform label, with placement in 9 Asia-Pacific countries.
In an talk with The Straits Times in November, Mr David Wang, 52, authority of a Textile and Fashion Federation, said: “I was shocked. M)phosis is a dear internal institution. It is like someone revelation me BreadTalk or Raffles Hotel is closing.”
In November, Singaporean engineer Jo Soh suggested that she would be discontinuing her 12-year-old label, Hansel, to concentration on her purpose as conduct of conform for Laura Ashley Asia. The 39-year-old had built a constant following with her quirky and dainty prints, though she felt it was time to pierce on.
As she told The Straits Times in a prior interview: “Laura Ashley has some-more resources and a code has such a prolonged history. Professionally, for me, it is a jump upwards and a good opportunity.”
3. NEAR-NAKED DRESSES
Beyonce (left) and Jennifer Lopez left small to a imagination. Photos: AFP
Celebrities exhilarated adult red carpets this year in dresses that left small to a imagination with their perfect panels and divulgence cut-outs.
American thespian Beyonce attended a annual Met Gala in May in a custom-made see-through robe by Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy. Crystals were strategically placed to cover her vicious bits, though it was still so divulgence that a swimsuit would have offering some-more coverage.
At a same event, existence star Kim Kardashian and small sister, indication Kendall Jenner, also went dangerously underdressed in their gowns by Cavalli and Calvin Klein.
At a Vanity Fair Oscars After Party in February, models Gigi Hadid and Irina Shayk flashed other guest in their divulgence get-ups. Hadid was in a swirly black papercut of a dress from a Atelier Versace Spring 2015 collection, while Shayk flaunted that she was not wearing underwear – a whole left side of her dress was see-through.
Singer Jennifer Lopez, hosting a American Music Awards final month, also showed off her enviable 46-year-old physique in a custom-made perfect robe by Lebanese-designer Charbel Zoe. The sequinned bodice and perfect sight suggested many of her curves.
We contend this is one trend that verges some-more on pretentious than class.
4. PEDDER GROUP TAKES BOLD STEP
Pedder On Scotts takes adult a whole second building of Scotts Square and bonds shoes, bags and accessories for men, women and children. Photo: The Straits Times
In a face of lifeless sales by oppulance conform retailers in a Orchard Road area – due to descending traveller numbers, a clever Singapore dollar and a recognition of online offered – multi-brand boots and accessories tradesman Pedder Group done a confidant pierce in Oct by opening a 20,000 sq ft store during Scotts Square.
Pedder On Scotts, that takes adult a whole second building during a mall, bonds some-more than a hundred engineer and mid-priced brands of shoes, bags and accessories for women, organisation and children. Around 40 per cent of a offerings are disdainful to a store, including American high-street tag Sam Edelman, British milliners Lock Co Hatters, as good as British shoemakers George Cleverley and Foster Son. At slightest 10 labels are new to a market.
In a prior talk with The Straits Times, a Hong Kong-based Pedder Group’s president, Mr Peter Harris, pronounced that a hilly internal sell meridian was indeed a best time for On Pedder to expand. He said: “It is an engaging time to secure sell space, not customarily formed on cost, though also availability.
“Our organisation has always used severe times in a sell marketplace to enhance a sell footprint, like what we did in a one to dual years post-2008 and 2009 when a informal marketplace was depressed.”
To offer shoppers some-more than customarily sell to buy, Pedder Group has enclosed a cafeteria in a premises, The Coffee Academics from Hong Kong, and organized in-store meet-and-greet sessions with general designers such as British shoe engineer Nicholas Kirkwood, who was here for a store’s opening. New York-based engineer Paul Andrew is slated to make an coming subsequent month.
5. STAR DESIGNER
Alessandro Michele has fascinated critics as artistic executive of Gucci. Photo: Ronan Gallagher
Though he started off as a relations opposite – customarily one of Gucci’s many behind-the-scenes designers – Alessandro Michele has spent this year creation large waves in a conform industry.
Since holding on a purpose of artistic executive during Gucci, he has been credited with reinvigorating a Italian oppulance tag with his heterogeneous brew of abundance, vintage-inspired patterns and androgynous geek chic.
The 43-year-old has been with a code given 2002. He was conduct accessories engineer until former artistic executive Frida Giannini left in Jan this year and he was promoted to reinstate her.
Though his appointment came as a warn to many in a industry, his initial year on a pursuit has won him accolades and propelled his name to a forefront of fashion.
His new Gucci cultured of dainty bows, layered prints and ethereal edging shirts for both women and organisation has been seen on a likes of Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, travel character idol Anna Dello Russo, American actress
Elle Fanning and One Direction thespian Harry Styles.
Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri told website Business Of Fashion that a Michele-designed collections, that went on sale in stores in June, have been drifting off a shelves.
“We’re saying a lot of new clients, a lot of new business – different, younger, some-more fashion-forward – shopping a collection, though not losing a prior ones,” he said.
To top a successful year, Michele perceived a prestigious International Fashion Designer of a Year endowment during a 2015 British Fashion Awards final month.
We can't wait to see what he throws out next.
6. DOVER STREET MARKET TO COME TO SINGAPORE
Fashion fans were anxious to hear a news progressing this month that multi-label judgment store Dover Street Market will open here subsequent year. The store, combined in 2004 by Rei Kawakubo of Japanese conform code Comme des Garcons, is famous for a irritable and adventurous curation of high conform and travel wear brands, as good as a artistic visible merchandising.
It is will be brought to Singapore by Como Lifestyle, a auxiliary of Singapore conform doyenne Christina Ong’s Club 21, and will be located within a Dempsey cluster of Tanglin Village.
Kawakubo non-stop a initial Dover Street Market in London with her husband, boss of Comme des Garcons International Adrian Joffe. Two some-more outposts were non-stop after in Tokyo and New York. The engineer is unequivocally concerned in Dover Street Market, conceptualizing a altogether pattern and interior spaces.
The store here will be partial of Como Dempsey, a formidable that will also residence restaurants, including one by eminent New York-based restaurateur Jean-Georges Vongerichten.
Dover Street Market is positively a acquire further to a sell stage here, that is mostly done adult of a same engineer labels and quick conform brands, steady in mall after mall from Orchard Road to a suburbs.
Shoppers can demeanour brazen to a brands that will be stocked during Dover Street Market here and how creatively they will be showcased within a sell space.
7. THE UNSTOPPABLE JENNER SISTERS
Sisters Kendall (left) and Kylie Jenner are creation waves. Photo: Reuters
Their stepsister Kim Kardashian competence be a second many followed chairman on Instagram after cocktail star Taylor Swift, and their father Bruce came out as Caitlyn in Vanity Fair repository in June.
Yet, Kendall and Kylie Jenner managed to reason their possess in a spotlight this year.
Kendall Jenner, 20, has turn one of a many in-demand models. She walked a runways for vicious brands such as Chanel, Diane Von Furstenberg and Balmain, fronts a jeans and underwear campaigns for Calvin Klein, and is a face for make-up hulk Estee Lauder’s redolence Modern Muse Le Rouge.
Last month, she cemented her standing as bona fide indication with her entrance as a Victoria’s Secret Angel during a Victoria’s Secret Show.
While Kendall is famous for her conform cred, younger sister Kylie, 18, has turn some-more of a beauty influencer. Much has been done of her pillowy simper (courtesy of mouth fillers), and her beauty slight and tips are common on her app and website, TheKylieJenner.com.
She launched Lip Kit by Kylie, a firmly edited collection of mouth glosses and mouth liners in bare and brownish-red shades, final month.
She customarily announced a collection 24 hours before a launch on Instagram and it sole out in minutes.
In October, she was named as one of Time magazine’s 30 many successful teenagers of 2015. She has 45.7 million supporters on Instagram while Kendall has 44.9 million.
8. DESIGNER COLLABORATIONS
The Balmain x HM (left) and Nike x Sacai collections. Photo: HM, Nike
Perhaps a many energetically awaited one this year was Swedish quick conform hulk HM’s partnership with French code Balmain, that sole out within hours of a launch on Nov 5 in Singapore.
Pieces from a collection finished adult offered on eBay for as many as Olivier Rousteing’s designs for a label, that on average, are in a segment of 4 figures.
Another rarely approaching launch – sportswear hulk Nike tapped on a pattern cultured of Chitose Abe, engineer of Japanese tag Sacai, to come adult with dual collections this year.
They featured sporty separates with Abe’s signature covers and pleats and have been a vicious and blurb success. Sadly, they are not accessible in Singapore and are sole customarily during NikeLab stores, nike.com/NikeLab and name multi-brand stores like Colette in Paris.
While American rapper Kanye West’s Fall 2015 collection with Adidas was a skip given of a blah-looking flesh-toned physique stocking looks, his sneaker designs have been a strike given he sealed on to combine with a German sportswear code in 2013. Even celebrities such as Swiss tennis actor Roger Federer and English singer-songwriter Ed Sheeran have taken to amicable media to gloat about owning a desired span or two.
West’s sixth and final pattern for this year, a Adidas Yeezy Boost 350 sneakers in tan, was launched worldwide on Tuesday. Like prior editions, this one is approaching to sell out.
Finally, Uniqlo collaborated with French tag Lemaire and ex-French Vogue editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld on dual sought-after collections in October. They did so good that Uniqlo will once again combine with a dual on Spring/Summer collections for recover early subsequent year.
9. RETURN OF THE CHOKER
The choker has been seen on South Korean rapper G-Dragon (left) and British indication and thespian Cara Delevinge. Photos: YG Entertainment, Reuters
The conform appendage from a 1990s – done renouned by cocktail stars such as British lady organisation Spice Girls – returned to necks this year.
Famous fans enclosed K-pop stars such as thespian IU, Suzy Bae of lady organisation Miss A and rapper G-Dragon from BigBang; as good as British indication and thespian Cara Delevingne and existence star Kim Kardashian.
The choker sas also seen on a Fall 2015 runway of French oppulance code Chanel.
But distinct chokers of a 1990s, customarily fashioned out of cosmetic or black ribbon, a ones this time around are a lot some-more interesting. New York trinket tag Pamela Love crafts minimalist and complicated coronet chokers plated in rose bullion or silver, while Swedish conform code Cos gave a some-more delicate take on a trend, with an epitome steel centrepiece tied around a neck with a flattering pinkish grosgrain ribbon.
10. BUCKET, THE NEW IT BAG
The Saint Laurent Emmanuelle bucket bag from a Fall 2015 collection. Photo: Saint Laurent
It competence not have a many stylish sounding name, though a bucket bag was a receptacle to have this year.
The style, initial renouned in a 1970s, done a quip in 2012, when New York tag Mansur Gavriel debuted a rarely desired drawstring designs.
But it was customarily this year that a character unequivocally became popular.
Brands such as Saint Laurent, Proenza Schouler and Alexander Wang expelled their possess versions, as did many quick conform brands.
Its recognition can be attributed to how versatile it is. Whether we are a biker stylish kind of lady or free-spirited bohemian, there is a bucket bag to fit all tastes.
Additional stating by Elisabeth Gwee and Alyssa Woo.
melheng@sph.com.sg
gladysc@sph.com.sg
lisa@sph.com.sg
This essay was initial published on Dec 31, 2015.
Get a duplicate of The Straits Times or go to straitstimes.com for some-more stories.
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