Act One, Scene One
A world famous designer decides to transport 800 glamorous guests to
the (also world famous) Cinecitta film studios that Mussolini built
just outside Rome in the 1930s. Here, where Liz Taylor and Richard
Burton fought and made-up on the set of Cleopatra, and Charlton Heston
raged as Ben-Hur, the world famous designer unfurls his Chanel Metiers
d’Art collection in Teatro 5 (see what Chanel did there?), Fellini’s
favourite of all the studios.
Why all the fuss and expense? Because it’s Karl Lagerfeld and it’s Chanel.
Scene Two
As the guests sip champagne and mingle among the life-size fake
facades of Ancient Rome, the sky turns inky black. A thousand (or
thereabouts) candles flicker in the chill December breeze and almost
as many Chanel brooches and chandelier earrings twinkle against all
those inky black cocktail dresses. The tension mounts. Can the world
famous designer maintain the Métiers d’Art momentum from last year’s
Salzburg collection?
Scene Three
Guests are ushered by buggy to an open air cinema for the premier
of Once and Forever, the latest installment of the Karl
Lagerfeld-directed biopic of Coco Chanel’s life, showing shortly on a
Chanel website near you. The young, Edwardian Coco is played by a
petulant young actress not at all based on Kristen Stewart.
Cut
It took the Chanel team six weeks to construct the night-time Paris
street that formed the catwalk for this ode to left-bank 1960s
Parisian style. Karl Lagerfeld said he was in love with early 1960s
Italian cinema, and for this he borrowed heavily from French actresses
such as Romy Schnieder and Anouk Aimee who both wore Chanel in early
60s Italian Films.
Cleverly though, this paragon of classic French chic has been
updated, thanks to the ministrations of seventeen make-up artists,
seventeen hair-dressers and eight manicurists.
‘We tried to do the backcombing the way a modern woman would do it,’
said Sam McKnight who lead the hair team. Mission accomplished. Mussed
up beehives (I can do that), black patent skirts and pea-coats, lacy
tights, backless stilettos – these girls (62 models including Freja
Beha Erichsen, Lara Stone, Audrey Marnay and Sam Rollinson were
clearly walking the walk of shame, and the Chanel woman has never
looked sexier. This was just the right side of sleazy.
The most desirable pieces were the kind an ultra high net worth
16th arrondissement student might have worn to mount the
barricades in 1968 – slim, leather skirts, trompe l’oeil tweed suits
(in reality one piece dresses), sailor pants and sequined Breton tops.
For evenings: a 60s version of Victoriana with high necked ruffled
dresses, appliqued quilted leathers – and the occasional boy wearing a
Chanel tweed suit. Think Sergeant Pepper via the rue Cambon. This was
not about minimalism, although black and white dominated.
The inevitable question: is the huge expense of these shows worth it?
‘We’re not a profligate company,’ Bruno Pavlosky, president of Chanel
Fashion told me. “When we began the Metiers d’Art shows in 2002, it
was because we felt it was really important to highlight all the small
craft houses we were supporting. We also had to find employment for
all of the people who work for them.’
Proof of the strategy’s success lies in the fact that thirteen years
later, Metiers d’Art employs 2,000 workers, from France to Scotland.
The collections are now a fixture on the show calendar and have
inspired various other big luxury brands to follow suit. ‘There are
many more Chanel customers than there were in 2002,’ says Pavlovsky.
‘They’re all looking for something different, and for something new.
Far from killing off the fashion show, the growth of digital and
social media have made it more powerful than ever.’
Roll credits.
Real-time highlights from the show as it unfolded, by Bibby Sowray
and Hattie Brett:
Karl takes his bow…
…with his adorable nephew, Hudson (who you can catch in Tiffany
Co.’s current ad campaigns) and what his favourite male model,
Baptiste Giabiconi (who if you can cast your mind back, dated Katy
Perry for a time…)
Our Sam is a lady of the night
Not literally! But British model and Chanel spokesmodel Sam
Rollinson does make for a rather alluring, PVC-clad femme fatale…
It’s all about the beehive. Again…
Hair guru Sam McKnight always initiates major beauty trends when he
works on a Chanel show. This time he’s championed the return of the
beehive. Dry shampoo cans at the ready…
And there’s more than a smattering of black patent, too
Paired with patterned lace tights, it’s all looking rather sexy in
this catwalk video from Anna Dello Russo. Special mention to the
film-reel box bags, too. Who’ll be spotted wearing one of those on the
street first?
The first look features monochrome and pearls
In true Chanel style, the catwalk is already awash with monochrome
and pearl encrusted dresses. Paired with fishnets and rock-chick hair, though…
@chanelofficial #chanelparisroma #ParisinRome
A video posted by Anna Dello Russo (@anna_dello_russo) on Dec 1, 2015 at 11:52am PST
Watch the ’Once and Forever’ film
This isn’t just a catwalk show, it’s also a Chanel premiere. They
just debuted Karl Lagerfeld’s film starring Kristen Stewart playing a
petulant actress (go figure) playing Coco Chanel when she was young.
Meta, much? You too can watch the full show here if you’ve got 12
minutes going spare…
First look to emerge out of Karl’s Metro at the @chanelofficial #ParisinRome show
A photo posted by Lizzie Paton (@elizabethcpaton) on Dec 1, 2015 at 11:48am PST
And Edie Campbell’s there too…
The British model is sporting a rather fabulous, Liz Taylor-inspired headpiece…
Kristen Stewart’s arrived
The 25-year-old Twilight star has been captured on film by
Mr Lagerfeld portraying Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, in a video that’s the
guests in Rome have just watched. The actress has appeared in two
Chanel ad campaigns thus far – and wears a Chanel sequin jacket well.
First look from #Chanel Pre Fall 2016 collection in #Rome ✨ left is the famous look from Elizabeth Taylor’s 1968 movie “Boom!” designed by Tiziani, a Roman fashion house that young Karl Lagerfeld worked for from 1963 to 1969. I just love how he recreated this particular look, it’s sentimental and definitely assures Karl’s personal ties in Rome. So excited for the show!
A photo posted by Grey Violin Armonia (@gvafashion) on Dec 1, 2015 at 10:59am PST
Of course, Karl’s created a cinematic set
Famous for his extravagant sets (he once imported an iceberg to the
Grand Palais in Paris), this time Karl Lagerfeld’s built a Parisian
street in the centre of Rome.
Look out for Lara and Freja
Lara Stone is in the building. It’s official, the model will take to
the catwalk this evening, accompanied by another of our firm
favourites, Freja Beha Erichsen.
On set behind-the-scenes: Karl team prep for tomorrow’s Chanel Paris-Rome show.. just hours away @chanelofficial #cinecitta
A photo posted by V Magazine (@vmagazine) on Nov 30, 2015 at 4:07pm PST
#theset #chanel #cinecittà #parisinrome
A photo posted by Vogue Paris (@vogueparis) on Dec 1, 2015 at 10:12am PST
~THE SET OF THE SHOW. #chanelrome #chanelshow #giabiconistyle #bg #teamgiabiconi #giabifamily
A photo posted by ❝Baptiste Giabiconi Italy❞ (@baptistegiabiconiitaly) on Dec 1, 2015 at 10:09am PST
Lara’s dog Bert also seems to be taking part, he’s pictured here
with Karl Lagerfeld and his godson Hudson Kroenig on the set.
A photo posted by Jamie Bochert (@jamiebochert) on Dec 1, 2015 at 5:38am PST
We can be pretty sure Hudson will make an appearance on the catwalk
too – he’s been pictured with Karl and his little brother Jameson in
Rome, sporting a snazzy poison pen-style t-shirt that says ‘We will
Karl you’.
A photo posted by V Magazine (@vmagazine) on Dec 1, 2015 at 9:39am PST
Must-have mule alert
A sneak peek of the shoes we’ll being seeing tonight proves that the
mule is still going strong. This monochrome number below may just be
next season’s must-have shoe, replacing Chanel’s sling-back, which is
currently riding high on editors wishlists.
A photo posted by Godfrey Deeny (@godfreydeeny) on Dec 1, 2015 at 8:04am PST
We definitely wouldn’t say no to these pearly delights either…
Preview of CHANEL ‘Paris-Rome’ Métiers d’Art 2015/16 presentation today at 6:30 PM, CINECITTÀ Studios in Rome … “I have made mules which Chanel never did”, says Karl about this new Coco shoe – classic except for the snake winding its way around the heel below the big, fat pearl. #CHANEL #CocoChanel #OnceAndForever #CHANELRome #Rome #ANDREAJANKELive #AndreaJankeOfficial #Backstage #Fashion #Fashionblog #Fashionlove #Fashionblogger #Paris #ParisRome #ParisCoutureWeek #ParisFashionWeek #ParisHauteCouture #LoveMyJob
A photo posted by ANDREA JANKE (@andreajankeofficial) on Dec 1, 2015 at 1:55am PST
Sightseeing the Chanel way
The French fashion house has been keeping the fashion bods busy
pre-show with guided tours of Rome’s historic marvels. The
Vatican, Trastevere and La Biblioteca Dorata have all been taken in,
with many an arty Instagram shot posted in their honour.
CHANEL Métiers d’Art ‘Paris-Rome’ 2015/16 … a celebration of art and handwork, shown this year in Rome, today at 6:30 PM, live-streamed here @andreajankeofficial – enjoy! #CHANEL #CHANELRome #CocoChanel #OnceAndForever #Rome #ANDREAJANKELive #AndreaJankeOfficial #Backstage #Fashion #Fashionblog #Fashionlove #Fashionblogger #Paris #ParisCoutureWeek #ParisFashionWeek #ParisHauteCouture #LoveMyJob
A photo posted by ANDREA JANKE (@andreajankeofficial) on Dec 1, 2015 at 1:49am PST
Con la presentación de Chanel #metiersdart #chanelparisroma en puerta, nos tomamos un momento para admirar estos tacones con perlas que las modelos estarán usando. #chanelmetiersdart #parisinrome #pearls #coleccion #blogearte #blogdearte #lamodaesarte #moda #chanel #taconesdeensueño #bejewelledheels #karllagerfeld #kingkarl Foto cortesía de @suzymenkesvogue
A photo posted by Blogearte (@blogearte) on Dec 1, 2015 at 8:19am PST
Welcome fash-pack
Fashion’s finest have been welcomed to the Italian city with gifts
aplenty. Anna Dello Russo looks to have bagged herself a bag (excuse
the pun), while Susie Bubble will bathing in Chanel No.5 for the next year…
Exploring Rome with a special @chanelofficial guide… #parisinrome #chanelparisroma
A photo posted by @theblondesalad on Dec 1, 2015 at 1:59am PST
Happy to have my tour buddy @laurabaileylondon in #Rome with me for @chanel’s #parisinrome
A photo posted by Caroline Issa (@caroissa) on Dec 1, 2015 at 4:15am PST
from Rome with love … and Chanel #ParisinRome #CHANEL @chanelofficial
A photo posted by Gilda Ambrosio (@gilda_grazia_it) on Nov 30, 2015 at 2:40pm PST
Morning! just a casual stroll through the Gallery of Maps in the Vatican #ParisInRome @chanelofficial
A photo posted by Susie Lau (@susiebubble) on Dec 1, 2015 at 12:43am PST
Discovering the magic side of Trastevere with #chanel waiting for tonight #show in #rome #ParisinRome #mffashion #defile #perfume @chanelofficial
A photo posted by Mffashion (@mffashion_com) on Dec 1, 2015 at 7:56am PST
Marble marvel #ParisInRome @chanelofficial
A photo posted by Susie Lau (@susiebubble) on Dec 1, 2015 at 12:47am PST
@chanelofficial #ParisinRome Teatro N’5 Cinecitta’ Paris-Rome 2015/16
A photo posted by Anna Dello Russo (@anna_dello_russo) on Dec 1, 2015 at 4:52am PST
When in Rome… #ParisInRome @chanelofficial
A photo posted by Susie Lau (@susiebubble) on Nov 30, 2015 at 9:09am PST
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