A weekend away with (or without) the kids, nice hotel, good food, loads to do and not too far away. Ever thought of going to Arnhem? This city is brimming with cool cafés and charming restaurants. Arnhem is in the middle of the Veluwe, so nature abounds. And that’s not all. How about art and culture, or an impressive look back in time? There’s no reason to be bored for even two minutes in this lively little city.
From 2007 to 2009, Arnhem was the proud holder of the title ‘Best city centre in the Netherlands’. A city with character was the finding of the strict jury. The capital of the province of Gelderland can thank the many historic places that still have a prominent place in the modern city for that verdict. I’ll be in Arnhem for three days and will begin my trip at the beginning: the Historische Kelders. (Historic cellars)
Historische Kelders
Arnhem was a flourishing merchant city in the 14th century. A lot of trading was done from the big merchant houses, so huge, arched cellars were built to store the goods. The houses may have been demolished and rebuilt over the centuries, but the cellars remained intact and have been made accessible to the public. So you can walk underneath the city. You can do it on your own, but it’s nicer with a guide because he or she can tell you exactly what went on below the streets of Arnhem 600 years ago.
History is not boring
The Airborne Museum Hartenstein in Oosterbeek is just a 10-minute drive outside of Arnhem and proof that history is everything but boring. The museum tells the famous story of the battle of Arnhem during World War II. I was so overwhelmed by the museum that I wrote a whole blog post about it.
From May to October, you can go on a historic city walk through Arnhem for €3.50 per person. The guide will take you along the old city gate and other historic sites. If your children are with you, the Netherlands Open-Air Museum should be on your list of things to do. I loved the museum, by the way, and I don’t even have kids. You can easily spend a whole day there. I went to the Winter Open-Air Museum.
Modern art at the Veluwe
The Kröller-Müller Museum. Everyone’s heard of it, no one can spell it. Kröller-Müller – easy peasy. The museum for modern art is in the centre of the Hoge Veluwe National Park. You have to buy a ticket for the museum and the NP.
The museum is renowned for its large collection of Van Gogh paintings. Did you know that Ms Kröller-Müller (the founder) bought her first Van Gogh for 100 Guilders? No one had heard of the Dutch painter. I love his art and spent a bit more time in the section dedicated to the painter of the sunflowers. The consequence? The museum is about to close, meaning that I have 3 minutes for the whole statue garden. Which is crazy, considering that the Kröller-Müller Museum’s 25-hectare statue garden is the largest in Europe.
Animals galore at Burgers’ Zoo
Some people think that Burgers’ Zoo is the prettiest zoo in the Netherlands. I’m here on a rainy, grey day, but can see what they mean. Burgers’ Zoo is over 100 years old and has always had the goal of making a day at the park an experience. And that is exactly what makes the park so nice. From the desert to the ocean, you feel as if you’re in the animals’ natural habitat.
Culinary surprise
You may not expect Arnhem to be brimming with hip, good and charming restaurants, but it is. I’ve now realized that three days are not enough to try all of the great places. These are the places I ate at:
Bij Visje en Vleesje is a hip place with full flavours. I had fish soup and did not regret one spoonful of it. Nice and spicy and richly filled. When my nose started running, I was brought a dish with napkins without having to ask for it. Very attentive!
Urban Chef is the place for a great lunch with an Italian touch. So many delicious sandwiches, it’s hard to choose. A good espresso and my day is made. This is neat: if the weather’s good, you can even buy a richly filled picnic basket.
Bistro Velvet is a cool bistro with excellent food. I let the cook surprise me with a three-course surprise menu. From the poached haddock to the chocolate dessert, everything was very tasty.
Momento with a passageway to the stunning library. The restaurant is big, spacious and atmospheric. A delicious sandwich is deposited next to my laptop. That’s what’s so cool about this place: you can have a great meal and still work in peace.
I didn’t have any time to go to these restaurants, but they were on my list: Sugar Hill, Look, ZafVino and Goed Proeven. If you’ve eaten there and think they’re worth my coming back for, let me know in the comments.
Hip hotel
The Best Western Plus Haarhuis Hotel is just opposite the train station and next to the high street. That’s where I stayed. Don’t let the restaurant’s old-fashioned interior mislead you, because the rooms are very cool. There are even animal theme rooms. It’s like sleeping in the jungle. Cool! Trendy designer hotel Modez is also an attraction in Arnhem.
Convinced? Read these tips first:
Arnhem is a great shopping city. Primark just opened a huge store. You will find other qualities of clothing in the numerous boutiques. Arnhem is a fashion city.
If you visit the Kröller-Müller Museum, take the time to explore the National Park. There are white bicycles at the entrance that you can use free of charge. Special walking routes are mapped out in the statue garden. You will find them at the ticket window.
More culture? Museum Arnhem is also worth a visit.
Avoid disappointments by planning your trip at the end of the week or on the weekend. A lot of restaurants and activities are closed on Monday and Tuesday.
Visit Arnhem during a special festival. For example, Sprookjesfestival or the World Living Statue Festival.