But why are you going to Croatia?’ an American lady demanded to know at Dublin Airport.
‘Have you family there or something?’
At 5am, it’s difficult to verbalise the full merits of a country with a glorious 1778km-long coast and 1,185 islands. But the Adriatic coast is simply a knockout.
Landing in Dubrovnik, the sight of sapphire waters made even this reluctant swimmer crave a dip.
And there is no greater spot than by one of the two outdoor pools at the five-star Hotel Dubrovnik Palace, the last stop on the Number 4 bus just outside the Old Town.
Soaking up the rays facing the vista of the Elafiti Islands, slurping cocktails by the private beach while sun-bathing is not a bad way to shake off the early morning flight.
Due to its popularity with cruise ships, it’s best to visit the medieval walls of Dubrovnik either early in the morning, or later in the evening, and it’s a view well worth the €17 licence fee you can pay at the beginning near Pile Gate.
Unsurprisingly, the city that formed the backdrop for Game Of Thrones is thronged with fans keen to see the real-life locations.
Jumping on the bandwagon, my pal Marion, a big fan, and me, who has never seen the show, took a private tour with Ivana Radic, a former extra and native of Dubrovnik.
Using film stills to show how parts of the walls were modified using computer-generated imagery, you can see how a little Hollywood magic can add a few dragons and ships.
A highlight is visiting the Lovrijenac Fortress, the site of the Red Keep and many bloody battles.
Other film locations are pointed out and the tour includes walking the historic city walls, attacked by the Baratheons in the first series.
But clearly the big draw is Cersei Lannister’s walk of shame on Dubrovnik’s Jesuit steps in Gundulic Square.
If you don’t know the show, you will be appalled to hear people shout ‘Liar! Slut! Whore!’, and ‘Shame, Shame, Shame’ as they lift their tops and expose themselves for selfies.
Move away from the main streets and there’s more to discover. Take a cable car up Mount Srd for the best view of all for about €17.
After three days, it was time to cruise the Dalmatian coast – and get the ferry to Hvar.
The sunniest place in Croatia with 320 days’ sunshine a year has been attracting A-listers since Orson Welles in the 1960s.
Although we spotted House Of Cards star Mahershala Ali, who played Remy Danton, in Dubrovnik, sadly there was no sign of Beyoncé. We did however spot blue ivy, which inspired Beyoncé and Jay-Z in the choice of name for their daughter. She has been made an honorary citizen of the Croatian town. True story!
Hotel accommodation in Hvar is expensive and hard to come by in high season, and we went Airbnb and stayed in a fabulous seaside cottage called Chilling in the Garden.
Our host, Ana, an artist, pointed us in the direction of a lovely bar with music, Central Park, and we booked dinner next door in Dalmatino Restaurant.
Croatian food is delicious, and most local taverns, or ‘konobas’, provide traditional fare, so lots of fish, while there is nothing nicer than their wine.
Thanks to Ana, we got a mates rates deal from a firm and took a Blue Cave tour the next day.
Carved in limestone by the sea, you could get your head chopped off entering on the tiny boat. But inside, the sun’s rays penetrate and break up through an underwater opening making the interior shine with silvery blue light.
While there is plenty of partying in Hvar, there are also a few chill-out spots away from the port, with hammocks overlooking the sea at Falko’s bar. After two days’ baking in the sun we set sail for Split.
Arriving on Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day and the Day of Croatian defenders, there was a festive atmosphere, and another warm Airbnb welcome, this time from host Tea.
As home to one of the world’s most impressive Roman ruins, the Unesco-protected Diocletian’s palace sees hundreds of tourists flock here daily at midday to see the emperor and his guards come out to address the public and change guard.
Packed with shoppers, bar-hoppers, workers, and tourists, the Blue Umbrella walking tour was a brilliant introduction to the city’s history.
For that American woman, I want to say, Croatia has it all – sunshine, history, culture, and plenty for Thronies looking to swear!
Travel facts
Aer Lingus flies to Dubrovnik www.Aerlingus.com Deluxe room at Hotel Dubrovnik Palace starts from €366 per room/night including an amazing buffet breakfast. Bookings: adriaticluxuryhotels.com or reservations@alh.hr, +305 20 300 300 Airbnb in Hvar with Ana, and Airbnb in Split with host Tea. Game Of Thrones tour guide Ivana Radic .
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