The mere mention of the Seychelles conjures up images of sundrenched beaches with powder-soft sand and turquoise water. It isn’t surprising that Irish brides Jennifer Maguire and Rosanna Davison chose to enjoy their post nuptials on this delightful archipelago in the Indian Ocean.
So many beautiful beaches can be on such a small island
However, my husband and I are under no pretence that we are embarking on a second honeymoon, as we set off with our ten-year-old daughter, Nicole, and teenage son, Mark, to see what the Seychelles has to offer families. The kids’ first question – where is the Seychelles? One thousand miles from Africa’s east coast and a couple of degrees south of the equator.
Our mission as a family is to hop around four islands and get to meet some giant tortoises. The excitement mounts as I inform the kids that one of the islands we will be visiting is where the Thunderbirds movie was filmed.
Rosanna Davison chose to enjoy their post nuptials on this delightful archipelago
We spend our first three nights on popular Beau Vallon Beach, which is a good base to explore the Seychelles’ largest and most populated island, Mahe. The five-star Savoy hotel boasts the largest swimming pool in the Seychelles, which ticks the boxes for the kids and the adjoining rooms mean privacy for parents. The kids get to fish and try their hands at kayaking but for the more adventurous diving and paragliding is also on offer.
The capital, Victoria, is only a few kilometres away and our first excursion en famille. Named after the queen who ruled over the islands in the 19th century it’s a thriving town, with high activity around the replica, silver Big Ben clock in the middle of the main street. ‘It’s a present from the British,’ our guide Chris informs us. He’s kitted out in a Liverpool shirt and bonds instantly with my son who has found a kindred spirit. ‘You should see this place at carnival, man…the whole town goes crazy.’
Victoria plays host to a colourful carnival every year that. While not quite up the wildness of Rio, twenty-five countries took part in the festivities last year and it is growing. Chris describes the beautiful girls from around the world wearing little more than feathers and my son already has plans to return someday. ‘…and we drive on the left side of the road too.’ The plug sockets are standard three pin as in the UK and Ireland so there’s no need for a continental adaptor.
There are plenty of attractions for adults and kids alike
First stop is Victoria Market, a bustling centre for all culinary delights. The kids watch aghast as a shark is portioned up at a fish stall. A variety of exotic fruits and foods are on offer and the trip is proving to be an education, even for the adults.
The Seychelles is a matriarchal society, with women making up 50% of the government and children are adored and well catered for. The locals speak good English, but my son and I can make out a few words of the local Creole, which is a mixture of French and English.
A colourful Hindu temple catches Nicole’s eye and with her camera in hand, she captures the ceremony being performed by the holy men inside. Most of the Seychellois were converted to Catholicism after the erection of a mission, established by the British in the mid-19th century.
Le Domaine de la Reserve on Praslin has perfect turquoise waters for snorkelling
The lodge, on one of the island’s highest points, is no longer standing but the remaining site is one of the best viewpoints on the island and Chris insists on taking us there – which doesn’t disappoint. A short drive down the hill brings us to the Seychelles’ tea factory on Morne Blanc. Here the kids get to see the entire tea process from picking to blending and bagging in the factory. After three days we embark on our first island hop. The journey to Praslin, the Seychelles’ second largest island, takes one hour on the high-speed catamaran.
Home to the Unesco heritage site of Vallée de Mai, the suggestion by some that Praslin is the location of the biblical Garden of Eden comes as no surprise. It is paradise. Coconuts hang lushly from spindly palms and tiny orange birds, the red-headed forest fody, jump from perch to perch.
You can live life at a tortoise’s pace on the Seychelles
On arrival at our hotel, La Domaine de La Reserve, one of these little birds lands on our porch and sings a welcoming tune. It is this kind of interaction with nature that makes us feel instantly chilled. Nicole squeals with delight as a tiny bright green lizard scurries up the wall of our porch.
La Reserve hotel has four stylishly kitted out family rooms with prime views of the private coral beach. Three small steps outside our verandah and we are walking on the coral sand and picking up colourful shells from the turquoise water – a shoal of silver fish brush by our ankles.
The hotel’s setting is perfect for snorkelling in safety and privacy. Wifi is on offer but with a huge swimming pool open all day and night the kids don’t have time for social networking. Night time is spent watching out for shooting stars outside our verandah. With a half-board option of varied cuisine the kids love the food.
Entertainment follows dinner each evening and our favourite is the Creole evening where the entire family go native and get involved in coconut shelling and traditional dancing. The hotel offers free bike hire and we set off for some wave jumping on Anse Lazio, on what is considered by many to be the most beautiful beach in the world. After two nights on this paradise we set off early on an excursion to Curieuse Island. We are met by ranger Paul – a man who loves his job, and who can blame him? He is guardian of the 200 giant tortoises who roam this former leper colony.
Since 1969 it has belonged to the animals and he takes us on a trail of the mangroves and hills from one side of the island to the doctor’s house on the other side. En route we feast on husks of coconut and berry, while hermit crabs and giant millipedes cross our path. ‘I made a good crab curry with a fellow like this last night,’ Paul beams. We can tell that it was delicious by his description.
The already-digested bodammier fruit, however, does not appeal. The giant tortoises feast on this small purple fruit but the centre nut is left intact and apparently delicious. However, even the kids are satisfied just to take Paul’s word for it and not tempted to try a taste when he rips it from the tortoise poo!
The catamaran anchors for a delicious Creole BBQ and some snorkelling before leaving us off on La Digue. At the end of an exhilarating day we have arrived on our fourth island. The rock formations on La Digue are famous. Pale pink and ochre granite forms, they look like Dali himself sculpted them for our personal pleasure.
The five-star Savoy hotel boasts the largest swimming pool
Breadfruit hangs on every road verge, ripe for the taking – a versatile fruit that can be chipped, boiled, fried, eaten as salad or dessert and lies scattered on the ground.
We stay in a small but exquisite family-run guest house on this island that is only 5km long and easily walked around in less than a day. The Cabanas des Anges guesthouse has a small swimming pool but our crew love the fact that it is right outside our verandah.
We lose ourselves in this primitive paradise where the locals commute on foot or by bicycle. The alternate mode of taxi is ox and cart and possibly the slowest but most fun way to get around the island. We explore the famous Anse Source d’Argent beach and wonder how so many beautiful beaches can be on such a small island. While the children play x’s and o’s on the sand with a piece of driftwood, hubby and I kick back and pretend we are on a second honeymoon.
The Seychelles is an incredible destination and worth paying that bit extra to experience. With temperatures that don’t drop below 26C or rise above 33C, every month is a perfect time to visit.
Michelle Jackson’s novel Six Postcards Home is published by Poolbeg Press at €9.99. www.michellejackson.ie
GETTING THERE:
Fly to the Seychelles with www.emirates.com Economy class return fares, inclusive of all taxes and prices, start from:
adult, €704; adult and child aged two to 11, €1271. Creole Travel Services can facilitate all aspects of a holiday to the Seychelles, from hotel reservations to flights and excursions bookings. You can choose from a selected range of excursions, whether your taste is for romance, adventure or family fun. Or you can even tailor your experience to your own desire. Learn more at www.creoletravelservices.com or email your queries to info@creoletravelservices.com For more details contact Seychelles Tourist Office on 0044 (0) 207 730 0700 or at www.seychelles.travel
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