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The way we treat our hair often makes any problems worse. Whether you are losing some of it, have other scalp problems or just want healthy locks, here is our expert guide to hair care.
WASHING:One of the first steps to good hair growth is a clean and healthy scalp. Regular washing is the best way to do this, but you need to wash it the right way.
Trichologist Philip Kingsley recommends daily washing and suggests gently brushing hair to remove any tangles before getting it wet.
‘If you start with tangles you’ll end up with more, and that can lead to hair loss from the hair breaking or by being pulled out as you detangle it,’ he says.
As for shampoo, Dr Vicky Jolliffe, a consultant dermatologist at the Royal London Hospital, recommends Nizoral (£6.39, superdrug.com), a medicated anti-yeast shampoo, to anyone suffering from hair loss. ‘It minimises dandruff and inflammation and optimises the condition of the scalp,’ she says.
DRYING: While most types of hair loss occur at the root, anyone with thinning hair should take care not to cause further loss by damaging the hair so it breaks.
Many things can weaken hair including exposure to sunlight (even in the UK) and chemicals such as chlorine in pools. Use a leave-in conditioner before getting in the pool, wear a swimming cap and rinse your hair thoroughly afterwards.
But the most common culprits are heated styling tools, such as hairdryers and straighteners.
Let hair dry naturally as much as possible before using any heat, as wet hair is more fragile and easier to damage, says Keith Hobbs, clinical director of the Institute of Trichologists. Use a lower heat and keep the dryer at least six inches from hair. ‘If towel-drying, do so gently.’
BRUSHING: If you are blow-drying hair, don’t use a barrel brush to pull hair taut. ‘Barrel brushes are designed to stretch the hair, and when hair is fine or thinning, this puts it under unnecessary stress and weakens it,’ says celebrity stylist Trevor Sorbie, who founded the My New Hair charity for people with hair loss.
Try an old-fashioned brush such as a Denman, which is flat and has widely spaced bristles, says Keith Hobbs.
‘That will help give lift at the roots, but doesn’t have the dense bristles that pull out hair.’
For everyday brushing, Trevor Sorbie is a fan of the pure bristle Mason Pearson range.
Hair stylists like bristle because it’s gentle and more effective than synthetic brushes at smoothing the cuticle (the outer part of each hair) and redistributing the oil (sebum) produced by the follicle along the hair, which protects and gives the hair shine.
HAIR EXTENSIONS/DYES/PERMS: It might be tempting to dye or perm thinning hair in a bid to make it look thicker, but GP and trichologist Dr John Gray warns this can actually weaken hair. ‘I’d always advise not departing too far from hair’s natural state,’ he says.
And be wary if you’re considering extensions. ‘Those that aren’t put in correctly or are left in too long can cause traction alopecia,’ says Keith Hobbs. Avoid any style that pulls hair tightly.
Backcombing, often used to give hair more volume, is another no-no as it causes damage. Instead, Trevor Sorbie suggests clip-in hairpieces.
There are styles that will make the most of the hair you have.
‘I’d always advise people to talk to their hairdresser,’ he says. ‘But longer hair will always look thinner, and avoid layers, which flatten hair to the head so it looks thinner. Usually the most flattering style is a one-length bob.’
WIGS AND HAIRPIECES: Wigs can be virtually indistinguishable from your own hair and with celebrities wearing hairpieces, they’ve become almost commonplace, even for those who do have thick hair.
‘You can get amazing hairpieces that make hair look thicker, and can even sit like a mesh on top of the head that you can pull your own hair through, filling any gaps in a natural and seamless way,’ says Trevor Sorbie.
He recommends Trendco (trendco.co.uk), which has a huge range of wigs and hairpieces in different colours and styles. ‘It’s really worth seeking out a wig specialist,’ he says.
Hairdressers know how to cut hair, but they’re often not as knowledgeable as they could be on wigs and hairpieces.’
If you want your wig cut, find a hairdresser trained to do so — see mynewhair.org UK stylists’ list.
Trevor’s top tip is to take a photo of what your hair used to look like when selecting a wig or hairpiece. ‘It can really help if you can show someone what your hair looked like, in style and colour, when you were happiest with it.’
PRODUCTS: While most experts are sceptical about shampoos and conditioners making hair thicker, some cosmetic products can, temporarily at least, make hair feel, and look, thicker.
Thickening lotions applied before blow-drying can give hair a boost. Try John Frieda Luxurious Volume Thickening Blow Dry Lotion (£5.99) or thickening powders, which you apply at the roots when hair is dry.
Bumble and Bumble has a version in various colours (from £16, bumbleandbumble.co.uk) which, as well as giving volume, can help disguise sparse areas where the scalp shows through.
If you’re concerned by the sight of your scalp, coloured spray-on products using fine powders, such as those produced by Mane (£17, maneuk.com), can help.
Dr Vicky Jolliffe says that unless someone has no hair at all, she recommends Nanogen Thickening Hair Fibres (£18.95, nanogen.co.uk). Available in ten colours, they come in something that looks like a pepper pot. You shake over your existing hair and the fibres, which are made of the same protein as hair, bind to your tresses. They look and feel like real hair and when set with the locking spray (£11.95) will last all day.
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The post The six ways to DAMAGE your hair – and leave you looking rough appeared first on EVOKE.ie.