I have traveled all over the world in search of adventure and natural beauty. Recently my friend David Derian Owner of Lucky Kratom invited me on just such an adventure. I was invited to live for a weekend at the childhood home of Reggae Legend Bob Marley in Nine Mile, Jamaica.
David is a close friend of the Marley Family he met Cedella Booker-Marley AKA “Mother B” while working alongside her son Richard Booker. Richard is the owner and director of the Marley Estates in Nine Mile, Jamaica. Richard was kind enough to allow us full access to the Marley Estate.
As we started this adventure it seemed to be blessed, after all it started with a rare Double Rainbow sighting right as we picked David up at the airport!
We spent our first night in Deerfield Beach Florida, meeting friends and enjoying a night before the storm. That night, storms blanketed the East Coast canceling thousands of flights including our 6am flight to Jamaica. The Airline informed us at 4:30am that our flight was canceled and they were unsure when we could get another flight out.
So when you are in stranded in South Florida and stuck for days what do you do? Easy, you grab a bottle of Scotch, head to the Keys and party till your flight is ready!
So we rented a car and continued to see the sights. We did the usual things and visited the regular tourist shops and locations across the island. The sun may have been hidden behind the clouds, but the spirits kept us warm and happy while waiting out the storm. This part of the adventure was a story in itself.
“love the life you live. live the life you love.” – Bob Marley
When the storm had cleared and we were finally able to contact the airline, we rebooked our flight to our next destination; Kingston, Jamaica. Ya mon, it’s time to fly.
3 days, One trip to Key West, 4 bottles of Scotch, many fish meals, 4 hotels and one unreasonable Hotel Manager later we would be on the way.
We departed the mainland as the sun set on Miami and headed into the night darkness of Kingston. The flight was quick, barely a moment at top speed before slowing down for approach. I had heard how rough the city Kingston was, and it was easy to see once our taxi headed through town into the mountains. Our Taxi drove into the night. It would be 4 hours before we would be within the walls of the Marley Compound.
I must note that at this point in our adventure, I was exhausted and a little sick with the flu, technical issues with the hotels had prevented me from sleeping the last few days. I had requested the taxi stop at the next place I could get some cold relief medicine, David promptly explained that when we made it to the Complex our onsite host Danny would be the man to talk to about the herbal remedy to my maladies.
As we pulled up to the large purple gate, you could clearly see we were at our destination. A few moments later before Jake the overnight Security Guard showed up to greet us, we were welcomed by Danny and the crew. They were all smiles, hugs and handshakes. It would be moments, and we would be within the walls of Bob Marley’s Compound, the excitement was palpable. We pulled into the compound and our new friends helped us unload our bags and get the keys to the rooms we would be sleeping in during our stay. We paid our taxi the 200,000J the equivalent of $170 USD, imagine a 4 hour taxi bill in NY, it was a bargain by any standard.
As we waited for the keys to our room, we were introduced to the local men we would be spending the most of our time with here. Danny our host greeted me with a smile and a birthday gift. It was my 40th birthday and he had made a rasta color beaded necklace for me. Danny then went down the line introducing Rambo, Lion, and Marlin, three of the happiest men I have ever met. We soon would be going up to the room to relax and start imbibing the local herbs and spices our host had brought us. The Nine Mile Valley is a very small place, and within minutes everyone knew we were here. We talked into the night about everything and anything that came to mind before finally crashing for the night.
The sun rose the next morning, and the valley erupted in sound and activity. cocks crowed, men yelled, children laughed and the reggae music played. The view from our porch can only be described as picturesque. The rolling hills dotted with small homes and farms. Busy people going about their lives. This was the moment the trip got real this was when you could see how these people really lived. If you observed for a short time, you saw the whole ecosystem at work. Vegetables being harvested to be taken to the market and traded for grains and fish needed for meals. The local children lined up at the local water supply awaiting their turn to carry home the days drinking water. Most of us canʼt possibly understand how it is to live this way. The majority of the valley lives with no running water or plumbing. It is so hard to feel sadness for the people here because they are all so happy to be alive and live where they live, close to the top of Zion and close to the national hero and treasure that is Bob Marley.
The morning inside the compound is quiet and serene. The daily hustle and bustle of tourists has yet to start. The workers are arriving and getting everything prepared for the day. It was a perfect time to admire the grounds. Everywhere you look there is something beautiful, from handcrafted wooden arches and doors, to imported brass and wood swing chairs. The fresh smell of flowers fills the air as they grow naturally all over the area. It is truly a luxury oasis atop Mount Zion.
“When you smoke the herb, it reveals you to yourself.” – Bob Marley
Still under the weather and exhausted our host brought me the best local herbs and assured me, some healing tea was being made by his mother next door and would be awaiting us at breakfast. Herbal tea has not always been of interest to me, recently I have come to love them more then ever. Tea and healing herbs are a big thing in Jamaica. Living the “Natural” way as the Rastafarians call it. Let the land feed and heal you. Teas and local foods were a huge help to me on this trip and it is my belief we could all learn a lesson from living off the land this way.
The path to Danny’s house is through the gardens and mausoleum area by the first house that Bob lived. Rambo a rasta that does tours for the tourists gave us a tour of the grounds and showed us all the sights. We took our shoes off out of respect and entered Bob’s childhood home. The whole of the building was maybe 15ft x15ft with one small wall separating 2 distinct areas, the entrance room and the sleeping area. It was tastefully decorated to the period and showed what a small upbringing Bob had come from. The cooking area was outside still and set up so you could see how food was prepared then.
“a pot a cook but the food na kno” – Bob Marley
I was asked to turn off my camera as we entered the tomb of Bob Marley and his half brother Anthony Booker. It was here I first felt Bobs presence as I lay hands on his final resting place. The Marble Tomb encasing him was an interesting orange brown marble. Many pieces had been assembled to create a broken tile look. You could feel Bob’s pain; it was not long before tears welled up in my eyes as I felt him relate to my soul in a way only music has in the past. I could feel his pain inside me; he was telling me about his love of local people and his desire for everyone to be happy in life.
The experience inside Bobs tomb was humbling and unexpected. I entered Mother B’s Tomb and was again greeted with raw spiritual emotion that seemed to touch my soul deep inside.
Her gregarious smile and happy disposition was fully represented on the walls in photos and newspaper clippings. Mother B is known to have been a wonderful light in the Nine Mile Community. She brought to the people of Nine Mile what no other family had brought, music, fame and hope for a brighter future.
The Marble stone here was different, very crisp and white, with beautiful sparkles. Unlike Bob’s Tomb the marble slabs in here were whole and expertly carved. The room itself was bright and vivid; you could feel Mother B smiling into your soul. I was instantly uplifted when I reached out to her and lay my hands upon her tomb. This can only be called spiritual medicine at its best. After a brief stay with Mother B, her nephew, our host Danny, escorted us through his personal gate to the path to his home outside the compound.
As we walked out into the village, it was clear we were not within the confines of the modern day world. Most Americans never see this part of Jamaica; it is the real Jamaica here. The village is a very old place with very old ways of living. As is the Rastafarian way they only cook over a wood fire, often in a kitchen area away from the house. The houses are small and close together; you soon realize that many generations live together providing each other full support and work as a team to overcome nature and survive.
We weaved our way back to Danny’s, mother’s, humble primitive kitchen for breakfast. Breakfast, the first day, was Fever Tea; made with Lemongrass and sugar cane known to reduce the fever brought on by cold and flu related symptoms. After a brief tour of Danny’s farm and some fresh sugarcane, we hiked the mountain to the top of Zion. The mountain top had the most amazing view. It was no wonder why we were standing on the actual foundation where Bob would have built his new studio. Looking across the valley peaks it was obvious why they chose to call that peak Zion.
With Danny’s daughters our little lions Passion and Princess to lead us, we ventured back to the kitchen for fresh dumpling and fish soup served alongside Sorrel, a deliciously sweet drink derived from the hibiscus plant and normally served with Rum at Christmas, not unlike our traditional Egg-Nog. The food and drink was unique; you could taste the love in it.
After eating we ventured to the town square to see the locals setting up for the nights entertainment. Huge Speakers were being placed by a makeshift bar, and the kitchen was assembled. It was obvious a party was planned for the evening. It was here I first met another colorful character of Nine Mile, MegaStar. He was a tall rasta with dreads and gold teeth and the same blood in his veins Bob had. He was by far one of the most outgoing people there and a skilled hustler. That evening as the sun went down the Music went up, and the people came to dance and enjoy the beautiful night. The music went deep into the night with the locals dancing to the beats till the beats were no more.
The next day was another amazing adventure in Jamaica, First we went to the small town of Brownstown where we met the local women of the village at the market to do some shopping for the evenings celebration and community party. We bought enough food to feed the village for the night and family for even longer. From there, we took a drive to Ocho Rios and the Dunn River Falls, a spectacular set of falls that empties into the ocean. This was much more what I originally expected, white sand beaches, Jet Skis and beautiful water. The common conception of Jamaica was visible here.
It was a full day of adventure before we returned to the village. When we returned we were greeted by the usual cast and taken to Danny’s for another party. Everyone in town came out to enjoy the last evening of our visit and eat and drink together as a community. It filled all of our hearts knowing we had been able to provide this small disadvantaged village a weekend of comfort and bliss. This space was truly one of the best experiences of my life. This space gave me a bigger view of the world and opened my mind spiritually more then any before. The beautiful architecture mixed with the scenery and people makes this place one of a kind. I have to thank Richard Booker and Marley Museum for allowing us open access to the treasure that is Nine Mile. If you are ever in Jamaica, we HIGHly Suggest you take the tour to Bob’s Birthplace and final resting place. When you arrive ask for MegaStar or Danny and tell them ERB Magazine sent you!!
Another way to help support the people in nine mile, is to join Steven, Damian and Julian Marley with guests like Ms. Lauryn Hill at this years Nine Mile Music Festival February 15th at the Miami Dade County Fairgrounds. www.9MileMusicFestival.com