I wore Risto shorts & jacket, Sezane t-shirt, Wildfox glasses and Cambridge Satchel Company bag
Image by Carola de Armas
I cannot actually believe how long it’s been since I last posted and could not feel more terrible about the situation. Having got rather behind through the whole NYFW to LFW to the studio to PFW I got rather behind and then, upon arrival in Paris my laptop and phone both packed up. As you can imagine, this was a total disaster and resulted in my not having posted in over a week, something that has caused me non stop anxiety and guilt. My new laptop is currently doing some sort of rebooting thing I don’t understand and I’m trying my best on a borrowed one, which we all know is NOT the same! But enough whinging for now, let’s talk NYFW SS16…
As I’m sure you’ve spotted, I’ve skipped straight from NYFW SS16 day 2 to day 4. That’s not because I’m now genuinely losing it over the whole laptop debacle… I promise. No, in fact I came down with something hideous on the morning of day 3 and spent the next 24 hours or so in the foetal position feeling incredibly unwell and pathetically sorry for myself. And I don’t mean “ill” as in a few too many at the Wang party, that kind of poorly I can suck it up and deal with. We’re talking full on fever and dizziness so after an unsuccessful attempt to venture out, I had to give in and retire to my bed. This especially sucked because I missed the Victoria Beckham, Thakoon and Prabal Gurung shows, three of my faves. But if it’s a toss up between passing out at a fashion show and FOMO I think the sensible choice is pretty damn obvious. So anyway, I picked things up the following morning with Tommy Hilfiger.
Tommy Hilfiger is a master of showmanship and his catwalks are always a sight to behold. This season he took his inspiration from the Caribbean, creating a lagoon and sand space complete with palm trees and a wooden rowing boat. After much jostling around and selfie taking amid the set, we were all finally in our seats and the show began. When Tommy does a “theme” he really does it but still manages to create wearable, covetable, saleable clothes that are recognisably Hilfiger. Out trotted floral embroidered cotton sundresses, easy breezy beach appropriate shirting, floor length string vests and knitted bucket hats. Admittedly, t-shirts emblazoned “Island Girl” and crocheted halter tops came dangerously close to contrived but Tommy Hilfiger is nothing if not a pro at skirting that line successfully. Remove the show styling and they were simply all cute, sunny, summery pieces. As for the silk bombers, without a doubt this season’s equivalent to AW15’s sold-out-in-seconds glitter star booties.
After a very welcome sojourn back to my Soho apartment (I had moved from The Roger the previous afternoon… ill and with 4 giant suitcases, fun) for some food and emails I was headed back to the Piers for the Karen Walker show. You’ve all no doubt seen my FAVE sunglasses, those supersized bug eyed pastel pink bad boys. Those are of course Karen’s handiwork but while she may be best known for her shades, Walker’s ready to wear is excellent. Rarely a season passes that I don’t covet her quirky cool pieces and SS16 was certainly no different. Photos found in Star City, a former secret military training base for the Soviet Union’s space program north of Moscow, may seem like a strange starting point, Karen Walker plucked aesthetic elements from this surprising source of inspiration to create a cracking collection. High shine gold leather was combined with delicate peasant blouses while neat ribbed sweaters in offish purple hues sat alongside utility detailing and acid wash denim. It was an eclectic line up for sure. I mean, floats sundresses and tech fabric, toggle zipped bombers don’t usually come down the catwalk together. But as is so often the case, Karen Walker turned a bizarre-on-paper juxtaposition on its head just perfectly.
Next up – after a cheeky glass of rose because sunny + #YOLO – was 3.1 Phillip Lim. I have a long standing, deep seated love for Phillip Lim. Given my predilection for bows and glitter and all things cartoon level colourful and girly this may be surprising. Yet I find myself permanently entranced by the cool, chic, immaculate way he articulates his brand vision and gives his customer exactly what she wants EVERY SINGLE SEASON. This season marked a decade in the business for Phillip, during which he has cleverly, carefully and consistently built a formidable global brand. While not immediately obvious, the mounds of dirt situated around the catwalk were the first marker of this; a reference to how everything, contemporary fashion labels included, start from a seed, from the earth. The second signifier of this hugely significant occasion was the fact that Phillip’s SS16 collection saw him rework some his most successful signature pieces in a new way, re-emphisising the knack for taking sporty, often masculine staples, and imbuing them with contemporary, feminine cool. Parachute silks, gathered waists, crisply knotted shirting came in an earthy palette of neutrals, camo, khaki, black and navy with glimmers of burnished shine.
Delicate, almost conventionally pretty but not quite floral prints, fabric rosettes and the odd all over ruffled number contrasted with more directional and androgynous pieces, expertly styled with headbands, messily greased buns and the most awesome satin peep toe booties. Traditional staples and fabrics including pinstripes, bombers, pencil skirts and culottes came deliciously reimagined; experimental proportions, with cut outs, asymmetrically spliced swathes of contrasting fabric like floral jacquard in offish shades of slightly swampy blue and green. Phillip Lim should be very, very proud indeed of his 10 year old brand and too, of this collection. Oh and his 90’s hip hop themed after party in Brooklyn that evening was certainly one for the memoirs!
Last up on NYFW SS16 day 4 was Maiyet. And yes, this means that I may just manage this diary in one post, YASSSS!! After a slightly frantic dash to Chelsea (lack of taxis, traffic etc etc) I made it to Maiyet in time to take my seat next to lovely Tamu Macpherson. I’ve said it before and I’m boring and frequently repeat myself so I’ll say it again probably many more times, one of the most enjoyable aspects of fashion week. Contrary to stereotype, everyone is not a total bitch… Thank God. But anyway, Maiyet.
Maiyet is a brand I didn’t know a great deal (read: anything) about prior to this show and I’m very glad indeed that’s changed as they are a very interesting one indeed. “Changing the face of luxury fashion” is a claim that’s far from unheard of but what this label is genuinely very interesting indeed. Many storied luxury houses talk about artisanal techniques and on the whole, there’s no doubt that said techniques are a big reason why their products are so special but none yet had done it in quite such a focused way as Maiyet for whom sustainability, ethical production and supporting communities around the world is of equal importance to producing – and more importantly, selling – luxury products. Since its launch in 2011 the label has partnered with artisans in places such as India, Indonesia, Italy, Kenya, Mongolia, Peru, Bolivia and Thailand, enlisting their unique skills to realise their seasonal vision while reinvesting in that particular community. It’s an important and commendable vision, but one fraught with potential difficulty. SS16 was the second outing from new Creative Director, Declan Kearney and his debut runway show for Maiyet.
This season saw him draw inspiration from American aviator and writer, Amelia Earhart to create a collection with a luxe utility feel to it. Think safari chic reimagined; earthy elegance by way of faded florals, pale khaki suede and softly tailored linen. Oversized sleeveless crepe aviator waistcoats, parachute silks and subtle toggle pull detailing gave a nod to the label’s SS16 muse but ultimately it was wearable basics in their luxest incarnation; fine knit tanks, collarless pinstriped tailoring and long line silk shirts being just a few of them. While I didn’t love all of it – I’m no fan of minimalism or pared back chic after all – there’s no denying that Maiyet is a brand to keep a close eye on and in terms of leading the label, Kearney is clearly the right man for the job.
Love Ella. X
The post NYFW SS16: Day 4 appeared first on La Petite Anglaise.