For part 2 of my Parisian escape, I traded in a sister and gained a boyfriend as D came out to join in the fun on Friday night. We stayed in an AirBNB for the first time and we were very happy with the experience. On our last trip to Paris we opted for the Verneuil – a boutique hotel in the heart of the 7ème – which we enjoyed, but the size of the room for the price we paid was nuts. If you want value for money, the only way forward to to find a flat instead. We chose here, and can highly recommend Sebastien (the host), the location and the apartment.
I’m not sure if Angelina’s really needs an introduction, but just in case you’re not privvy to Paris’s worst kept secret, this is where visitors come in their masses to taste the most indulgent, calorific hot chocolate that ever graced this planet. You can consume it in the picturesque tea room, adorned with regal furnishings (you’ll have to wait c.1hr+ for this) or you can nip into the right-hand queue and settle for half a portion in a take away cup. It’s so rich that is this the perfect amount anyway and you’ll save money and time by doing in this way. There’s the added benefit of the Tuileries gardens being right across the road, so you can take your paper cup and straw and go and sip the chocolately goodness in front of one of the fountains with a view of the Louvre.
We meandered back through the 1er arrondissement to our flat to get ready for dinner. Café Nemours (below) is a fantastic place for a kir royale with a view of a bustling square.
With my favourite foodie partner in crime now in tow, D and I headed off to Bones, the newly opened restaurant from Aussie chef James Henry, previously known for Au Passage. The name alludes to Henry’s stripping back of dishes to raw materials and indeed, it is here that I tried my first oyster. There’s no à la carte menu and no choice. Much like at Chateaubriand, you get what you’re given unless you’re deathly allergic. In my humble opinion we should all be brought up to eat anything and everything we’re presented with; too much choice just breeds fussy eaters.
Right, you ready? The meal is a bit of a marathon…
First to appear are a few small plates to share between the two of us. Parfait aux foies de vollaille (chicken liver parfait) set the bar high, with delicious sweet jam and crunched pistachio nuts.
Bonite et oseille (tuna and sorrel) followed with a refreshing kick.
Next came brioche et anguille (eel on toast) and so busy was I in my mission of tricking D into eating it – I knew he wouldn’t touch the stuff had his French been good enough to know what he was eating – that I forgot to take a photo. I only wish I had photographic evidence of before he discovered it was eel (nodding and chewing contently) and after (practically spitting his mouthful out). What you don’t know won’t harm you, eh?
Beautifully presented oysters were up next. Now I’ve never tried a proper oyster so I was intrigued.
Not too bad at all! Less slimey than I thought and much tastier. To cleanse the palate before our proper ‘entrée’ was the navet et champignon en bouillon (turnip and mushroom broth) which slid down very happily indeed.
Asperges vertes et poutargue (green asparagus and salted fish roe) followed. Earthy and delicious.
And onto the main event: canette fermière, sauce au pain et oignons roscoff (duckling, bread sauce and roscoff onions). My knife cut through the meat like butter and it was well seasoned. As you can see, there’s no embellishment in the presentation, no fuss with the trimmings; it’s just a very good piece of meat cooked to perfection.
And dessert(s) were original – David preferred the first, the orange and almond tart and I adored the second – goat’s milk ice cream which was simultaneously creamy and refreshing.
We were thoroughly impressed with the whole meal. The restaurant has a youthful eastern Parisian attitude which is reflected in the décor, the clientele and most importantly, the food.
We rolled back to our AirBnB and got some sleep ahead of our last day. Which started at the Musée Picasso. After a lengthy 5-year renovation period, the museum has reopened with more of the Spaniard’s works on display than ever before. All housed in the perfect Marais mansion, it’s almost worth a visit to duck into the courtyard alone. As is always the case in France, under 26s go free (although you still have to queue up to get a ticket) so we joined the masses and waited our turn.
The sheer amount of work on display – from paintings to sketches and sculpture – is completely awe-inspiring. Slight more confused, though, is the curation; the layout seems to be a strange mix of chronological and thematical with no real logical link running through. Perhaps it was overhead my head but with no audioguides available (you have to book them in advance) it was hard to know.
But the space itself is great – lofty ceilings and whitewashed walls make it a very calming experience, despite the crowds. I also thoroughly enjoyed the he third floor, dedicated to Picassso’s own collection of others’ works, including Cézanne, Renoir, Modigliani and Miró.
Perhaps it was the anticipation after it being closed for such a long time but we couldn’t help but feel slightly disappointed as we stepped out, even if we couldn’t exactly put our finger on why. We strolled through the Marais in such for sustenance.
For our final lunch we went out with a bang at Ma Bourgogne under the red brick arches of Place des Vosges, a firm Swinton family favourite. Mum and Dad tell me we used to come here every Sunday for lunch when we were growing up, a top choice especially if our grandparents were in town visiting. Quite possibly the best steak frites in Paris (big. claim. I. know) but it’s true, it really is the creme de la creme!
For all my Paris recommendations, click right here. On this trip, and in this post you saw:
To eat
Bones: My new favourite restaurant for a special occasion. 6-7 courses for €55 euros (extra €8 for cheese), no choice menu. The whole vibe is stripped back, from the bare table tops to the naked light bulbs, dimly lit room and raw ingredients. Fantastic, inventive cooking. The new Chateaubriand.
Ma Bourgogne: Quite simply the best steak and frites you will have in Paris, although you have to be prepared to shell out for it! Remember you’re also paying for the location, under the arches of the famous red brick buildings of Place des Vosges.
To drink
Angelina’s: the place to drink hot chocolate in Paris. At peak times you’ll have to wait over an hour for a seat in the ‘salon’ where a pot of hot choc is €8.9 (no, that’s not a typo). My advice is to skip the queue and get takeaway which is a more manageable portion and price.
Café Nemours: treat yourself to a kir royale in this café that looks like a film set, situated on the side of Place Colette. Ever seen The Tourist? This is where the opening scene takes place.
To do
Musée Picasso: although I wasn’t entirely convinced by the new Picasso museum in the heart of the Marais, I would still recommend a visit. In the vast amount of work on display there’s something for everyone and with sculptures and painting often in the same room, you’re able to imagine his artistic process.
Walk in the Tuileries: there’s pleasure no greater simple pleasure than taking a stroll in the famous Tuileries gardens. Fountains, flowers, a carrousel and even trampolines feature or you can grab a steel green steel and recline to soak up the sun.