by CLAY BARBOUR photography by TODD WRIGHT
Everyone in the world is unique. Different. Special.
So our mothers tell us. And you know what? In many ways, it’s reassuring. But when you’re just trying to find a shirt that fits, unique is a hassle.
It’s no secret that the fashion world caters to tall, slim people. Clothes look better on them for a reason: They fit. But say you’re 5 foot 9 and 180 (all muscle, I swear); finding a shirt off the rack that fits is possible, yes, but tough.
Most men are forced to make compromises. But Ledbury, the Richmond-based clothier, has added an option that promises – for a healthy price – to make this problem go away.
This past summer the menswear brand acquired Creery Custom Shirts, a tailoring institution in the capital city for 108 years. This has allowed it to offer bespoke shirtmaking services.
Normal shirt tailoring customizes an established block pattern. Bespoke takes it a step further, crafting a pattern based specifically on the customer.
I’m 46 and for the past 25 years my shirt-buying experience has gone mostly like this: Find a shirt I like; it doesn’t fit. Find one that fits; it’s dull, or cheap, or has the wrong collar.
The selection has gotten better in recent years, as national brands started offering tailored fits and slimmer cuts, but still – being too short, and too broad, means I struggle to find shirts that fit both my shoulders and my arms. I usually just roll up my sleeves.
So, we decided to give Ledbury’s new option a try, and headed to Richmond to check out the Creery Workshop. Jim Joyner, the former owner and current adviser, took us through the roughly half-hour process.
With normal tailoring, you pick a shirt (for me, a large) and then have the neck and sleeves adjusted. Ledbury takes 12 measurements, including the half-chest, half-waist, hips, bicep and armhole. From that, master tailor Abel Mendoza makes your pattern, which is kept on file for future orders.
This approach allows for the subtle differences that make you you, which means that longer torsos, uneven shoulders and differing length of arms are no longer issues. Still, having yourself measured so completely can be a bit unnerving. I was aware of my 42-inch chest, but hearing I had a 37-inch half-waist and a 41-inch mid-hip painted an alarmingly hourglass picture.
Next you choose your collar and cuffs. Cuffs are relatively simple. I chose a barrel cuff, because the need for the French variety is rare. Collars, however, can get tricky. I chose a mid-spread, but you can get as adventurous as you want. Ledbury offers more than 100 styles, from the casual button-down to exotic mandarin. You can even bring a collar in and have the tailor replicate it. Also, the company uses a canvas interlining that helps its collars maintain their shape, even without a tie.
Then you pick the fabric. This is the part of the process that may take some time. Ledbury’s selection is fairly wide-ranging, offering more than 100 patterns onsite and 700 more for order. I chose a cotton poplin in fall-appropriate plaid: blue and red, with a touch of gray. It’s the kind of shirt you can dress up with a tie and a blazer or dress down with sneakers and jeans.
You can even have your shirts monogrammed, or the position of the second button adjusted to allow for wearing it open without revealing an unprofessional amount of chest hair.
Ledbury pitches this entire process as an experience, so there is no need to rush. And, if you happen to be so inclined, Bulleit Bourbon is on hand for a nice drink. Every shirt is made by Mendoza in the back of the workshop and shipped out in three to four weeks.
Once your shirts are in, you come back to Ledbury for, perhaps, a second fitting, to tweak any problem areas. My shirt came back on a rush job, yet no second fitting was needed.
As advertised, it fit better than any shirt I’ve ever owned. But make no mistake, you pay for it. A Ledbury bespoke shirt starts at $300. It is intended as a luxury item. And I’ll say this: Wearing one sure makes you feel special.
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?
Bespoke | Process begins with a full set of custom measurements. The tailor drafts an original pattern by hand and makes the shirt.
Made-to-Measure | Tailor uses a set of measurements to customize a block pattern.
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