First look at Raf Simons’ vision for Calvin Klein AW17. The first look that came out was perfection, a red-white-and-blue ensemble of red piped flat-front pants with blue tucked-in felted shirt and white poloneck, plus steel-capped cowboy boots. Very clean, direct and optimistic in its message. The show continued in a similar vein, an ode to American classics, including artisanal quilting inside parka jackets, Ralph-Lauren-meets-Helmut-Lang double-breasted camel coats, more western boots and impeccable indigo-rinsed denim that has my name all over it.
Amongst those were some edgier pieces. Coats layered in clear vinyl, peekaboo dresses, sheer feathered shifts and plastic shoes with ‘wings’. The styling was fairly minimalist with a slight youthful messiness. But overall this is a clever collection with broad appeal. The fashion purists will wear the coats and tailoring, the bright young things will want the sheer-bodied knits (hi Rihanna), the knitted arm warmers (also spotted at Raf Simons) and the punky shoes. I’d like to see more accessories and I imagine yet another attempt at Calvin Klein beauty will be along soon.
The masses might not ‘get it’ yet, but it will filter down swiftly enough once the influencers (I mean real influencers – stylists, cool models etc – not ‘influencers‘) get going. Yes, we will all soon be wearing too-long flat front pants over cuban heeled boots – yee-ha!
This was also a good example of what a unified runway could look like. There were 64 looks of menswear and womenswear combined and the show felt coherent and well-paced (to me watching on the live stream, although, possibly it felt a little lengthy to those IRL showgoers who had already sat waiting for half an hour).
Anyhoo, all in all, so far, so promising.
WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Vogue Runway
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