Complexity is possible in rosés, notably those from southeast France, but can a price-tag of £15 or more ever be justified? Yes it can, says Elizabeth Gabay MW.
Is premium rose (above £15) a contradiction in terms? Should rosé be fresh and simple, not complex, weighty or oak-aged? The modern Provençal style is regarded by many as the benchmark of good rosé, but it has not always been so. Over the past 30 years, Provençal rosé has evolved from dark pink and powerful to pale, dry and fresh, and designed for easy drinking.
See also: Chateau de Pibarnon to release ‘year round’ rosé
Early attempts at more complex rosés were clunky, as producers tried to combine the simple, fresh style with greater weight and longevity, but recent years have shown great improvements. Until 2006 no one imagined that rosé would sell for more than £50, but Sacha Lichine’s investment and success at Château d’Esclans in Provence has inspired others to aim high. Riedel’s launch of a rosé glass earlier this year is another sign that it is being taken more seriously.
See also: Rosé wine taking off in the US
Château de Pibarnon, Bandol, Provence 2014
August 26, 2015
Great structure and weight, balanced by long fresh acidity. Cinsault with Mourvèdre from well-established vineyards
Points 93
Domaine Tempier, Bandol, Provence 2014
August 26, 2015
The classic Provence trio of Cinsault, Carignan and Grenache are given extra weight with Mourvèdre...
Points 93
Gérard Bertrand, Château la Sauvageonne, Coteaux du Languedoc 2014
August 26, 2015
Grenache and Syrah give bright red fruit, crisp, mineral acidity and a dry finish. Extra weight has been gained...
Points 92
Domaine de la Ribotte, Anaïs, Bandol, Provence 2014
August 26, 2015
Mourvèdre-dominant, with a hint of Grenache. Fresh grapefruit acidity, good weight with savoury, mineral notes
Points 91
Château Brown, Bordeaux 2014
August 26, 2015
Largely Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with a hint of Petit Verdot. This wine has both the ripe berry fruit...
Points 90
Château de Sours, Bordeaux 2014
August 26, 2015
100% Merlot. Despite the darker pink, this is not a rosé to ignore. Fresh red berry fruit
Points 90
Joseph Mellot, Le Rabault, Sancerre, Loire 2014
August 26, 2015
100% Pinot Noir – more like a light red. Fresh berry fruit with smooth, creamy weight and a hint of
Points 90
Château Léoube, Le Secret, Côtes de Provence 2014
August 26, 2015
Grenache, Cinsault and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Round, ripe berry fruit and lively acidity...
Points 89
Domaine Ott, Clos Mireille, Côtes de Provence 2014
August 26, 2015
Grenache, Cinsault and a bit of Syrah. Some oak ageing gives a rich creamy structure..
Points 88
William Chase, Luberon, Provence 2014
August 26, 2015
Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. Leafy, herbal freshness balancing ripe red fruit..
Points 86
Château Miraval, Côtes de Provence 2014
August 26, 2015
Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah with a dollop of the white variety Rolle. An improvement on earlier vintages...
Points 85
Domaine Ste-Lucie, l’Hydropathe Elite, Côtes de Provence Ste-Victoire 2014
August 26, 2015
Syrah and Grenache offer clean, crisp, grapefruit minerality...
Points 85
Château d’Esclans, Les Clans, Côtes de Provence 2013
August 26, 2015
Subtle, oak aged character, dominates but there’s enough fruit to...
Points 85
Château d’Esclans, Rock Angel, Côtes de Provence 2014
August 26, 2015
From old-vine Grenache, Rolle and Tibouren. Part vinified and aged in oak, it has ripe red fruit...
Points 85
Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna, Sicily 2013
August 26, 2015
Nerello Mascalese and a hint of Nerello Mantellato. Nutty aromas reflect its age...
Points 85
Château de Sours, La Source, Bordeaux 2013
August 26, 2015
This Merlot-dominant wine boasts gentle honeyed oak, good structure, perfumed floral fruit...
Points 84
Château Ste-Marguerite, Symphonie, Côtes de Provence 2014
August 26, 2015
A Grenache-Cinsault blend, this has round, creamy peach fruit...
Points 84
Chêne Bleu, Vaucluse, Provence 2014
August 26, 2015
Grenache with Syrah and a touch of Cinsault, grown at high altitude to give pure red fruit...
Points 84
The range of colours on display in this tasting was gorgeous, ranging from pale red to off-white, illustrating the challenge of choosing by colour. Paleness is traditionally regarded as an indication of quality, with orange tones suggesting oxidation and darker rosés a weak red wine. But colour has little relation to quality, and can be a clue to the variety: Grenache often has hints of salmon, Syrah is blue-pink and Cabernet pale red.
This tasting proved that rosés can be complex, but that price alone does not indicate quality. Once a sceptic, I am now excited by the quality and variety on offer, though I still struggle to justify a price of over £30.
These wines were chosen from a tasting in May of 36 premium rosés organised by Richard Bampfield MW and Jean-Christophe Mau of Château Brown.
The post Expert’s choice: Premium Rosé appeared first on Decanter.