Travel Guide to Granada, Spain
Landscape
Granada, Spain lies at the foot of the frosted Sierra Nevada Mountains in Andalucía, which is a picturesque region with sprawling hillsides and miles of olive groves. Throughout its history, Granada has been a strategic city for its location near the Mediterranean Sea and its ample sources of running water from the rivers Beiro, Darro, and Genil.
Brief History
By the end of the 5th century BC, Granada was a Greek colony before becoming part of the ancient Roman Empire among with hundreds of other cities in the Iberian Peninsula. These were known to the Romans as “Hispania.” After the Umayyad Moors conquered Hispania in 713, Granada flourished under their rule for the subsequent 700 years until the city surrendered in 1492 during the Reconquista fueled by the Catholic monarchs Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile. This surrender was one of the most significant events in the city’s history and unfortunately resulted in the destruction of most of the mosques the Moors had built. In the same year that Granada was won by the Catholic Monarchs, Queen Isabella I commissioned Christopher Columbus’ explorative voyage to the New World.
Granada is best known for its extraordinary Moorish fortress and palace- the Alhambra. Granada’s old city, Albayzin, is also a testament to hundreds of years of Moorish occupation and boasts typical Arab narrow cobblestone streets. The Alhambra and its gardens were declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1984, and has remained an iconic and popular tourist site in Spain.
Granada is a city rich with history, culture, and architecture. Tourists from all over the world come to Granada to enjoy its main treasure, the Alhambra. Granada’s location allows for breath-taking views of the Sierra Nevada and easy commutes to both skiing and Mediterranean beaches. It is an ideal place for both romantic and family get-a-ways. Granada is a charming gem in Andalucía, and although its days can be quite hot, the nights are cool and serene. It is no wonder why this city was lusted after and fought for by so many realms.
What To See and Do
Alhambra
Alhambra literally translates into “the red one” in Arabic. The Alhambra monument is an outstanding example of Moorish design. It sits on a plateau overlooking Granada’s old city and spans approximately 1,530,000 square feet. Construction began on the Alhambra in 1237 with Muhammad Al-Ahmar I, the founder of the Nasrid Dynasty. Work continued and additions made with the seventh heir to the Nasrid throne, Yusuf I. Muhammed Boabdil XIII, the last Muslim Sultan to rule Granada before the Reconquista, surrendered Alhambra to the Catholic Monarchs on January 2nd 1492. Each Muslim ruler continued the “paradise on Earth” theme that can still be seen today.
For the next 24 years after the surrender, the Alhambra monument was restored and altered by the Spanish Royal Family. The Palaces were used by local government officials for meetings and as headquarters for Spanish authorities in the area. Alhambra’s colorful history comes at no surprise once you step onto its lush landscaped grounds. There are four sections of the Alhambra- Alcazaba, Nasrid Palaces, Partal, and Generalife (pronounced Hen-er-al-eef-eh.) I recommend that you enter the Alhambra at the official entrance pavilion/ ticket office and make your way through Generalife, El Partal, Alcazaba, and leave the Nasrid Palaces for last. This way, you will experience the best for last. Each of the Nasrid Palaces (Mexuar, Comares, and Los Leones) was built by a different Arab ruler of the Nasrid Dynasty as testament to each one’s authority and affluence.
Architect Leopoldo Torres Balbas designed the Generalife Palace and gardens in the 1920’s and 30’s as a place to where the Royal family could escape from their official duties. The Generalife landscape is spectacularly lush and perfectly manicured. Guests will find paths lined with blossoming roses and English Elm trees brought by the Duke of Wellington in 1812. The Darro River feeds the charming cascades and fountains in Generalife.
The Partal is an area containing the palace that Yusuf III built and used to reside. Unfortunately the Spanish monarchy let much of the Partal fall into disrepair and so many of the houses that were once standing did not survive. Alcazaba is one of the oldest sections of Alhambra and was utilized as a military citadel and lookout point. Visitors can stroll the excavated rooms where soldiers slept and where the Arabs stored ammunition. Alcazaba tower is worth the hike up the steps for the brilliant view of the entire city of Granada as well as the Sierra Nevada Mountains.
Finally you will arrive at the Nasrid Palaces, which are most definitely the icing on the cake. Intricate geometric wooden inlays, decorative Arabic inscriptions, and millions of the tiniest, yet delicate, architectural details adorn the Palace walls from top to bottom. The unique carvings in each of the rooms are masterful and truly one of the world’s man-made wonders. The Alhambra monument has inspired architecture, photography, and design for centuries. It is impossible not to leave the Nasrid Palaces without being amazed at their beauty.
It takes approximately 3-4 hours to see all four main areas of the Alhambra, but many visitors opt to see Alhambra in 2 separate visits. It is recommended to rest a short while after visiting Generalife and after seeing the Nasrid Palaces, as these are the largest sections of the monument.
The Alhambra’s visiting hours are as follows: March 15th – October 14th Monday through Sunday 8:30am to 8:00pm, and October 15th – March 14th Monday through Sunday 8:30am to 6:00pm. I recommend purchasing tickets beforehand online directly from the official website. You must purchase a ticket to see the Nasrid Palaces separately from your ticket to see the rest of the monument. The Nasrid Palace ticket will specify a time to enter. Make sure you are there 5-10 minutes before the specified time to be let in.
Note: The order in which you visit the parts of the Alhambra will depend on what time you have been allocated for the Nasrid palaces (indicated on the ticket), so if you book sufficiently far ahead, you will be able to choose which half-hour slot you want.
Tickets sell fast and so purchasing them ahead of time will save you about an hour’s wait outside the ticket office. Also, there will be no guarantee you will be able to purchase a ticket the same day that you arrive unless you book beforehand. Children 12 years and under and/ or who are handicapped enter free. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes, bring sunscreen, and arrive early. You can catch Bus # 30 or # 32 next to Plaza de Isabel la Católica and be there as soon as the doors open at 8:30am to avoid the afternoon crowds.
Info:
Calle Real de la Alhambra s/n 18009 Granada
Puerta Elvira
Puerta Elvira (Arch of Elvira) is an 11th century gateway into the Albayzin- Granada’s old city. It is one of the surviving sections of a defensive structure that once surrounded the city. The arch provided a Northern entry point into Granada and was used as a Triumphal route by every ruler that took it. Muhammad Al-Ahmar I marched through Puerta Elvira in 1238 and established the Nasrid Dynasty. The Catholic Monarchs King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella also utilized Puerta Elvira to enter their beloved city on each of their visits. Later Napoleon’s troops invaded Granada through this ancient gate. Visitors were let in through massive wooden doors that could be lowered, but they have since been removed and just the exterior face remains. Puerta Elvira stands proudly in the Plaza del Triunfo on Calle Elvira.
Royal Chapel
The Royal Chapel or “Capilla Real” in Spanish, is a Gothic-style mausoleum and chapel that was commissioned by the Catholic Monarchs in 1504 to serve as their final resting place. The funerary temple has a deep meaning to both the Spanish and other European and American visitors because Spain was linked to Portugal, England, and Austria through the marriage of their children. Also, it was Queen Isabella who enabled Christopher Columbus’ voyage to America and the spread of Spanish culture through the New World. The Royal Chapel contains relics, tapestries, sculptures, and paintings from the 15th century. In recent years the Vatican has donated various religious artifacts that once belonged to the Catholic Monarchs to the city of Granada, and these are currently on display in the Royal Chapel museum. A few steps beneath the Transept section of the Chapel, visitors can see the crypt that contains the coffins of Ferdinand, Isabella, Phillip, Joanna, and the of the young Prince Michael- King Ferdinand’s grandson and heir to the Spanish throne who died in 1500 in Granada at the age of two. In order to preserve the centuries-old art work guests are not allowed to use flash photography inside.
Info:
Calle Oficios 1
18001 Granada, Spain
Cathedral of Granada
The Cathedral of Granada is a massive structure that was erected on the site where the Nasrid’s main Mosque once stood. It was intended to be a grand symbol of Christianity’s presence in Andalucía. The Cathedral took over 180 years to complete (construction halted during the Plague years) with the help of five architects who added their personal touches throughout the interior and exterior of the building. This is the reason for the Cathedral’s eclectic design features, which include Renaissance, Baroque, Gothic, and Neoclassic elements. The Cathedral was originally intended to be the final resting place of Charles I of Spain, but Phillip II changed his mind and now Charles I and subsequent royals are laid to rest in El Escorial just outside of Madrid. Once inside, visitors can walk along the perimeter to view the 13 distinct chapels dedicated to various Saints, as well as admire the colossal white marble pillars that encircle the Cathedral’s main altar. Be sure to pay attention when looking up at the Chapel of the Trinity, as you will find paintings by El Greco. Admission costs 3.50 Euros per adult and visiting hours are as follows: March through August: Monday- Saturday 10:45 am- 1:30pm & 4:00pm – 8:00pm and Sundays from 4:00pm- 8:00pm. September through February: Monday- Saturday 10:45 am- 1:30pm & 4:00pm- 7:00pm and Sundays 4:00pm- 7:00pm.
Info:
Gran Vía de Colón 5
18001 Granada, Spain
Albayzin
By taking the Alhambra “minibus” # 35 from Plaza Nueva, you can spend some time in the Albayzin, which is a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets that once comprised the old Arab quarters of city. This is the oldest section of Granada and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. The streets in the Albayzin offer great views of the Alhambra monument and contain numerous restaurants and shops. You will notice that unlike the lower section of Granada, the square plazas of the Albayzin are smaller in size. You will also pass in front of various “Carmens,” or typical Andalucían houses with attached gardens. Owning property in this area of Granada can get pricey and those who live here cherish the history and culture of their neighborhood. Most of the streets in the Albayzin are pedestrian-only, which makes it easy to navigate on foot. Be aware, however, that the Albayzin is located on a hillside and there are many steps to climb for the best views of the Alhambra. On the bright side, coming back down is a breeze.
Mirador de San Nicolas
If you want to make your friends jealous, muster up your energy and make your way up the hill through the Albayzin to the Mirador de San Nicolas (if you are the energetic type you can make the 45 minute climb up the stairs, but if you are not feeling up to it, you can catch minibus # 35 to the hill top.) The Mirador is located in the Plaza de San Nicolas next to the whitewashed Church of San Nicolas high above the Darro River. It boasts the most awe-inspiring views of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada. A picture here around sunset will complete your photo album of Granada. Once in the shade of the trees at the Mirador, relax and take in the view. Usually, there are local musicians playing guitars in the Plaza, which keeps the atmosphere lively. There are plenty of restaurants in the area, most of which offer the same incredible view as the Mirador. I recommend you visit in the late afternoon hours to avoid getting sunburned, and so you can catch the sun setting on the Alhambra.
Mirador de San Cristobal
Like with Mirador de San Nicolas, Mirador San Cristobal boasts beautiful panoramic views of Granada, a partial view of the Alhambra monument, the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and the 11th century city walls. Both Miradors can be seen in the same day. They are 10 minutes walking distance from each other. From Mirador San Cristobal visitors can see many of the city’s important buildings. At the mirador is the Church of San Cristobal (Saint Christopher.) Like most of the churches in the city, San Cristobal church is a converted Mosque. The church’s tallest tower was once a tall minaret, but now is much shorter and thicker.
Monasterio de San Jerónimo
The monastery of St. Jerome was the first Catholic monastery established in Granada. The Catholic Monarchs commissioned it and construction began soon after the Arabs surrendered the city in 1496. In 1521 the monks of the order of St. Jerome moved into the monastery and there they served the church for the next three centuries. In 1835, however, the monastery was shut down as per the Law of Dissolution, which prohibited most religious orders. The building ultimately fell into disrepair and it was not until 1958 that a restoration project allowed for monks to move back in. Presently, the monastery of St. Jerome is a cloister that is home to the Community of Sisters of St. Jerome. Inside, visitors will find a cheerful courtyard containing a garden of well-groomed orange trees. On the walls you will notice several coats of arms, which denote the founding monarchs’ crests. Walk along the inner walls and stroll through the different chapels and wings to get an idea of what Catholic monastic life was like in the 15th century.
Info:
Calle Rector Lopez Argueta, 9
18001 Granada, Spain
Alcaicería (Arab Market)
Alcaiceria means House of Caesar, and the name of the street has existed since Emperor Justinian allowed the Moors permission to sell silk in this ancient Bazaar. Alcaiceria is not a very long street, but it was once part of an extensive market for buying and negotiating spices and silk. It was in Granada where the silk was woven and prepared for sale. The once-large bazaar was downsized due to a fire in 1843 that set much of it ablaze. Today you will find that Alcaiceria Street is lined with tourist shops full of Grenadian and Spanish trinkets. I recommend not spending your money in these stores, but holding off for another, and just enjoying this antique narrow street that smells of burning incense. Take a stroll through Alcaiceria and you will feel as though you are in Morocco.
Gran Vía de Colón
Gran Vía de Colón is the main street that runs through the center of Granada. If you are on Gran Vía, you are relatively close to most of the must see’s in town. Along Gran Vía you will find tourists and locals alike walking, lunching, shopping, and talking. It is pedestrian-friendly in both directions, and many of the mini buses can be caught on this main avenue. Gran Vía is a great place to shop or to stop into an ice cream shop for a refreshing mid-day snack. There is a famous bronze statue depicting Christopher Columbus standing in front of Queen Isabella. She, of course, commissioned his journey to the New World and their meeting is represented in public for all to see. Carrera del Darro is an old cobblestone street that runs parallel to the Darro River. You can turn onto it soon after Gran Vía de Colón changes names to Calle Reyes Católicos. Carrera del Darro is an ideal place to stop and take in the charm of Granada’s Moorish and Renaissance roots. Old bridges over the Darro River are still being used today and make for great pictures. Be careful, however, because Carrera del Darro sometimes has traffic and there are no sidewalks along some of its sections. Walking along the stone wall is your best bet to make it down Carrera del Darro safely.
Sacromonte
Sacromonte is a section of Granada that cannot be missed! If you are interested in Gypsy or Roma culture then you should make your way up to this neighborhood for some authentic Flamenco shows in the evening. From Sacromonte you can also enjoy great views of the Alhambra and the Darro River below. Camino del Sacromonte is the main street that runs through Sacromonte and it is lined with caves. These caves were where the Gypsies lived for hundreds of years as a way to preserve their culture, but now the caves house various restaurants and bars. Be sure to ask your hotel concierge about which Flamenco or Zambra show you should see. I have heard of tourists being scammed with poor Flamenco performances, so it would be worth your time (and money) to ask. The Museum of Sacromonte is a great place to learn about the culture and history of the people who lived there. You can get there by taking Bus # 34 from Plaza Nueva to Sacromonte 2. The admission price to enter the museum is 5 euros.
Day Trips
Baeza
Located in the Jaén province of Andalucía, Baeza stands out to me as a hidden gem of Southern Spain. You will drive through miles of olive groves to reach this UNESCO World Heritage site. Take the A-44 North from Granada until you reach Jaen, from there will reach the A-316, which will have an exit for both Úbeda and Baeza. You will be happy you came when you see what treasures lie in this small but artistic town. Baeza contains many examples of Italian Renaissance architecture, which helped to secure its UNESCO World Heritage title. Baeza was once a flourishing Moorish settlement until it was taken over by Spanish monarchy in 1227. What the town lacks in size it makes up in history. Just take a stroll through the winding streets and you will spot 16th century churches, statues, fountains, arches, and a university. Baeza can be seen in one afternoon and it is quite easy to get around on foot. After lunch at Sarmiento make your way up to the lookout point Vista Panoramica del Valle de Guadalquivir. The view of multiple mountain ranges and hillsides will complete your experience in Baeza and give you a true sense of what the Spanish countryside is all about- olives and sunshine! I would suggest buying olive oil when in Baeza. The Jaén region is one of the largest olive oil producers in the world and the quality is superior. Only buy the extra virgin type, which is the direct product from the grapes’ first press. Olive oil is a healthy food and makes for a great gift for people back home.
Úbeda
Úbeda is a historical city located approximately 152 Kilometers North of Granada and about 9 Kilometers Northeast of Baeza in the Jaen region. Like Baeza, Úbeda was pronounced a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2003 and boasts tons of great Renaissance, Baroque, and Gothic architecture to visit (Úbeda has over 80 historical monuments to visit that range from the 1500’s to the 1800’s.) The city also has Miradores (look-out points for panoramic views of Andalucía,) artwork by world-class artisans, museums, and much more. A good place to begin would be the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, which contains a tourist office with an attendant ready to dispense brochures and maps of the city. Most of the city’s attractions are walking distance from this square and easy to find with a simple map. Since Europe’s Renaissance period first began, Úbeda has become a center for skilled craftsmen of various trades to practice, master, and produce incredible works. Ironworks, carpentry, ceramics, jewelry, glass works, stone sculpting and engraving, and paper mache children’s decorations are just some of the industries visitors will find here. The artists’ workshops and stores can be found scattered throughout the city, but most of them lie just outside the historical center. If you are looking for a special piece pottery for your kitchen, a hand-carved mask for your living room, or custom-made light fixtures for the outside of your home, this is the place to come. When scouting for that perfect work of art, look for the emblem of a lion that indicates the shop is part of the Artisan Association of Úbeda. This way you can be sure you are getting the real deal from master craftsmen who dedicate their lives in order to keep the city’s rich heritage alive.
Additional Travel Information
Currency: euro
Currency converter: www.xe.com
Best time to go: Spring is the best time to visit, when the weather is mild.
Getting around: Most of Granada’s main sights are walking distance from each other.
Our hotel pick: Hotel Palacio de los Navas
In an unassuming location on the corner of Navas and San Matias Street, stands this boutique-style hotel. Once through its main glass door, guests are greeted by one of the personable and knowledgeable ladies at the front desk. The Palacio de los Navas’ courtyard and pillars will immediately catch your eye, and you will quickly realize you are standing in the transformed 16th century home of the Navas family, which were assistants of King Ferdinand II and Queen Isabella I
With all its modern and luxurious amenities, guests can enjoy a tranquil stay in the lively historical center of Granada. The hotel contains 19 guest rooms on four floors. The rooms are located along wrapping balconies, and each opens to the view of the luminous courtyard in the lobby below. It is important to know that booking your rooms in advance at Palacio de los Navas is recommended. The rooms go fast in the months of March through April and October through November. Rooms can run you between 120 and 170 euros per night during these busy months. Any other time of year, however, the rooms are available for approximately 70 euros per night.
Note from David
I have to say, I was not planning on visiting Granada. I was ready to head to Valencia instead, but the reputation of this magnificent place pulled me to it. Seeing the Alhambra monument was one off my bucket list for sure. The Generalife gardens are especially beautiful although they are a later addition to the grounds.
The drive from Madrid was also a highlight of this trip. There are miles and miles of olive groves and it is easy to see why Spain exports some of the most quality olive oil in the world.
And the food! How can I forget the food I ate in Granada? I could tell the recipes were infused with Spanish and Arab flavors- just one of the best combinations in the world. Overall, the people were friendly and ready to welcome me wherever I went. This is a great place to come with the family since there is skiing and beaches so close to the city. Granada is a jewel of Andalucía and a must-see for anyone in the area. I sincerely hope you get a chance to visit this treasure and the surrounding towns. The history, music, culture, and food will make you want to come back for more.
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