With a sense of spirituality and it’s compelling balance between the old and new, Auroville boasts of a growing creative community
On 28 February 1968, on a piece of barren wasteland approximately 12 kilometres to the north of Puducherry, young people from 124 countries poured earth from their native lands into a lotus-shaped urn. The urn, a symbolic gesture of unity, was placed in the notional centre of a future township. Auroville, a city of the future—under founder Mira Alfassa, the ‘Mother’ and spiritual collaborator of philosopher Sri Aurobindo—had come into being. Forty-eight years and 2,400 residents later, Auroville still largely operates on the principles of the original charter. Dimitri Klein, who runs the Dune Eco Resort in Puducherry and lived in Auroville when he moved to India almost two decades ago, says Auroville makes you feel like you’re “part of an important experiment that could change the world”. But if you think that touchy- feely hippie idealism is all that it’s about, think again. Amidst the artists, dreamers, and adventurers are dynamic, industrious residents driving its micro-economy.
ARCHITECTURE
From its inception—Roger Anger, the township’s architect, virtually designed it as a laboratory for innovation and experimentation—architects and town planners from across the globe were drawn to Auroville. Their varied styles are reflected in the buildings that make up the community: from Anger’s own legacy of non-rectilinear and sculptural buildings to the fire-stabilized mud houses of ceramicist Ray Meeker. Fabian Ostner—whose Bobby’s House is a steel and aluminium structure that can easily be dismantled and rebuilt anywhere—says that being in Auroville helps him “be connected to what is essential”, resulting in his low- impact architecture.
The larger focus on low-imprint living means you should forget about driving around Auroville. Rent a bicycle or scooter—available easily—and blend in. A visit to Auroville starts from Matrimandir, a swollen globe of gold-leaf-plated discs designed to be the town’s ‘soul’. An interesting feature of Auroville is the number of public-use buildings that have been allowed to find form in a township with a population of just over 2,000 inhabitants. The Auroville Health Centre, Town Hall and Auroville Library are all worth a visit.
CRAFT
Perhaps due to its proximity to the celebrated Puducherry-based Golden Bridge Pottery, Auroville has attracted several ceramicists. At Mandala Pottery, a balance has been found between their commercially successful tableware and the more experimental range of delicately hued and organically shaped non-functional objects. In his office upstairs, Adil Writer—a trained architect turned painter and potter, and partner at Mandala Pottery—designs his own line of studio pottery.
Auroville is also famous for its handmade paper. Once made exclusively with recycled paper, Auroville Papers now incorporates waste fabric from garment factories for its incredible paper jewellery and home decor objects. WELL Paper, initiated in 2005 as a Tsunami rehabilitation programme, helps over 100 women fashion quirky household accessories and bric-a- brac from recycled paper, using only non-toxic colours. WELL—Women’s Empowerment through Local Livelihood— also runs a vegetarian cafe in Auroville’s forest zone, where the day’s specials are scribbled on a blackboard that stands at the entrance.
DESIGN
If you’d like to take back a little bit of Auroville with you, Auroville Boutique at the Visitor’s Centre sells a range of locally made ceramic, jewellery and paper products, as well as incense and candles. Uma Prajapati, who founded Upasana, uses fashion for social change. Her range of organic clothing is available at Auroshilpam. Another clothing designer I like is Naushad Ali, who revives classic weaves and is currently working on a 50-piece, one-size-fits-all line that promises to be authentic and original. Ok Jeong Lee—a fashion designer from Korea—and Marc Barandard, a furniture designer from France, started the Upcycling Studio in 2014. Lee uses cassette tape to make bags while Barandard’s work is easily recognized for his consistent use of Tetra Paks, from which he makes stools, chairs and other furniture.
PRODUCE
Jane Mason, who, along with Fabien Bontems, runs Mason & Co, India’s first single-origin vegan chocolate brand out of Auroville, says she’s constantly inspired by the high standards set by the innovators around her. Try Mason & Co’s limited edition ‘Coconut Masala Chai’ bar—and keep an eye out for their soon-to-be- opened cafe Bread & Chocolate. Naturellement Garden Café offers a delicious menu using locally sourced produce; the salads and herbs are from their own kitchen garden, the eggs and cheese from Auroville farms. ‘Martina’s Special Cake’—named for owner Martina Ljungquist—is a gluten- and dairy-free delight. As a more ‘Indian’ alternative, Roma’s Kitchen is famous for its wholesome, freshly cooked food; the ‘Lasuni Palak’ is a favourite.
ACCOMMODATION
Staying in Auroville is key to finding out what makes it unique. Swap hotel rooms in Puducherry for a fuss-free guest house. Well located, Afsanah Guest House is perfect for quiet contemplation with its Zen rock garden and surrounding pathways that wind amongst the cottages. The Center Guest House is the oldest of the Auroville guest houses; its setting under an old banyan tree is magical. Gaia’s Garden is amidst a lush garden and offers spacious, comfortable rooms as well as a fully equipped kitchen. For something more nurturing, I recommend the Quiet Healing Center, a “hospital of love” set on a seven-acre beachfront property. Speak to Ute, the friendly front office manager, who will guide you through some unusual sounding treatments; the ‘Heartworks Lomi Lomi Massage’ got my attention.
Ultimately, an authentic experience of Auroville will depend on how closely you live as locals do. Even then, if you still come away feeling like you didn’t completely get it, don’t fret. After all, it’s a town that belongs to everyone—and no one.
Source: Architectural Digest