With its music and its wine and, best of all, its books, Franschhoek in autumn is the place to be
Words and Pictures Chris Marais and Julienne du Toit www.karoospace.co.za
Our wild Huguenot souls afloat with grape expectations and the prospect of a bakkie-load of book sales, my partner Julienne du Toit and I crested the lip of the Franschhoek Pass and gazed upon the lush valley that stretched before us. The Groot Drakenstein range stood proud and jagged. Its peaks kept the company of clouds and stood with their heads high above the valley of patchwork wine estates, the village and the exclusive lifestyle settlements.
Part of the main homestead at La Bourgogne.
The great Karoo poet and rural magistrate, William Charles Scully, once made this rather tart observation: ‘The wilderness has ever been the rich storehouse of spiritual things. Man gains corporeal, moral and intellectual power in the arid waste, and loses them in the land of corn and wine’.
These are words that Jules and I can heartily endorse. We live in the ‘arid waste’ of the Karoo Heartland, although after the recent rains it looks more like the ‘arid waste’ of Ireland. And we work in the semi-desert, gaining some measure of inspiration and strength from the orphan towns of inner South Africa – where the trains stopped running a long time ago.
Then, when we need to party, we climb into the old Isuzu and make our way down to the ‘land of corn and wine’ and partake of the grape and other fruits of the field under the watchful gaze of big mountains and occasionally disapproving Capetonians.
: Franschhoek’s Huguenot Street calls you to settle at a pavement table and order a bottle of wine.
So, yeah, Franschhoek. And being Huguenot. Driving down the main road of this fine village, you curse the day you cut French classes. You re-experience that slight alienation of your first visit to Paris… [Story continues in April edition.]
The Franschhoek Huguenot Monument is highly symbolic. The female figure clasps a Bible in her right hand, and a broken chain in her left hand, indicating freedom of religious belief. A fleur-de-lis on her dress indicates nobility of character. She is shown shrugging off the cloak of oppression and stands above the Earth, spiritually free.
Where to Play
The Franschhoek Literary Festival 2015 runs from 15-17 May, www.flf.co.za
Franschhoek is one of the world’s top destinations for interesting wines of French origin, so set aside plenty of time for wine estate visits. Many of these now have olive groves and offer olive oil tastings. You can also take a sparkling-wine route. Plot your visits to the vignerons of Franschhoek at www.franschhoek.org.za
The hop-on hop-off Wine Tram is a must and you avoid having to find a designated driver. There is lovely scenery en route, and it can be a day adventure, with long stops and picnics along the way. www.winetram.co.za
Don’t miss the Huguenot Memorial Museum complex and include time to admire the formal and rather lovely gardens. www.hugenoot.org.za
The Village Market next to the church on Saturday mornings offers fabulous food and produce under shady trees. 021 876 2431.
If you love vehicles, head straight to Dr Anton Rupert’s staggering collection representing South African auto history, at the Franschhoek Motor Museum a short distance outside town on L’Ormarins wine estate. 021 874 9020, www.fmm.co.za
Where to Eat
Franschhoek boasts scores of superb restaurants and eateries. These are but a few unmissables:
South African chef Reuben Riffel comes from Franschhoek and his restaurant is justly famous. Reuben’s Restaurant, Bar & Deli is a feature on the main road. 021 876 3772, www.reubens.co.za
Matthew Gordon helped establish Franschhoek as a foodie must-visit at Haute Cabrière. He has trained dozens of new chefs and is now the chef-patron at the French Connection bistro. Don’t miss his cooking. 021 876 4056, www.frenchconnection.co.za
Margot Janse’s cooking is also the stuff of legend. Head to The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français to experience this, one of the most consistently excellent restaurants in South Africa. 021 876 2151, www.lequartier.co.za
Where to Stay
There is a bewildering variety of accommodation and consulting www.franschhoek.org.za is the best place to start.
For more suggestions and the full story, grab the April 2015 edition of Country Life, in print or as a digital magazine.
Chris Marais and Julienne du Toit have a series of Karoo-based e-books available online.
The post The French Collection: Franschhoek Literary Fest appeared first on South African Country Life.