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Harpers Ferry
A splendid view of Harpers Valley National Historic Park can be seen from Maryland Heights.
Harpers Ferry
John Brown Fort was the site of its namesake's capture during the Civil War.
Harpers Ferry
Perched on cliffs above the Potomac River is the Hilltop House Hotel.
Harpers Ferry
Frankel Bros. clothing store on Shenandoah Street.
Harpers Ferry
Looking up High Street at the Stephenson's Hotel and the John Brown Wax Museum.
Harpers Ferry
The view near Jefferson's Rock of the St. Peters steeple with the Shenandoah River in the background and the Potomac Gorge beyond the bridge.
Harpers Ferry
Bicycle and walking path on the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal towpath.
Harpers Ferry
Bridges over the Potomac River seen from Maryland Heights.
Harpers Ferry
Railroad trestle turned pedestrian bridge leading into town.
Harpers Ferry
The elegant Riley House on High Street.
Harpers Ferry
The Dry Goods general merchandise store on Shenandoah Street.
Harpers Ferry
Shops along Shenandoah Street.
Story and photos by Pat & Chuck Blackley
When we first walked the streets and paths of Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, many years ago we were captivated by this charming town tucked into the Blue Ridge Mountains. But we soon discovered that this peaceful, picturesque village at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers has a turbulent history.
In 1783, Thomas Jefferson called the view from here “perhaps one of the most stupendous scenes in nature.” Upon surveying that same scene, George Washington saw an “inexhaustible supply of water,” and at his urging a federal armory and arsenal were built there in 1799.
Soon after came mills and factories, and by the 1830s, with the arrival of the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad and the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, Harpers Ferry had become an important industrial center and transportation hub.
In 1859 abolitionist John Brown and his 21-man “army of liberation” attempted to seize the armory and arsenal to arm an uprising of slaves. Local militia and U.S. Marines, commanded by Col. Robert E. Lee, foiled the attempt, and Brown was captured, tried for treason and hanged. But the incident influenced public opinion and helped push the nation toward the Civil War.
Because of its railroads and strategic location on the border between the Union and the Confederacy, Harpers Ferry was hotly contested during the war. Changing hands no fewer than eight times, it suffered the burning of its factories and the demolition of its railroad.
In 1944, recognizing its unique place in history, Congress established Harpers Ferry National Monument, later changing the designation to a national historical park. Harpers Ferry preserves more than 3,700 acres, including parts of neighboring Virginia and Maryland that were important in the Civil War or that offer splendid views.
More than 150 historic structures survive, many of which are authentically restored and used for exhibits where costumed interpreters re-enact daily life in the mid-1800s. Important structures include the federal armory’s fire engine house where John Brown was captured—now called John Brown Fort (built circa 1848)—and the town’s oldest building, the Harper House, built in 1782 by the town’s founder, Robert Harper.
The task of restoring and repairing this unusual town never ends, but the National Park Service has done a superb job. The same can be said for the Harpers Ferry Historic Town Foundation, which works to protect lovely 19th-century homes and churches. Charming bed-and-breakfast inns and period shops and restaurants add to the appeal of Harpers Ferry.
Besides immersing ourselves in the area’s history, we also enjoy walking or biking along the towpath of the historic C&O Canal. And you’ll find many more trails that allow you to explore the surrounding countryside, including the famed Appalachian Trail, which passes through the town and goes right past Jefferson Rock, where the man who would become president admired the view in 1783. For a spectacular view down into town, take the path to Maryland Heights, a key battlement site in the Civil War.
Harpers Ferry is a truly special place, and we appreciate those who had the foresight to save it for the nation’s enjoyment.