Thanks for the compliments re the ferrules.
I do sell these, in fact these days that's the only reason I make them as I don't make rods just now.
They're Australian $65 a set of 1/2 and $55 for 1/1 with FREE postage anythere in the world.
Currently that's about $US60 and $US51
Registered post if you want it is $16.
Stay tuned because reel seats are coming on line very soon as are fly reels in the style of Hardy Marquis trout.
my web site is:
http://www.avyoung.com
The material I use for ferrules is AMS 4640 Nickel Aluminium Bronze (NiAlBr 4640).
I use it because it's much, much stronger than NS and stronger than Duronze too.
Duronze is C64200 also known as AMS 4631.
The yield strength of NS 97800is 152MPa with an ultimate tensile strength of 310MPa
The yield strength of Duronze is 310MPa with an ultimate tensile strength of 620MPa
The yield strength of AMS 4640is 470MPa with an ultimate tensile strength of 760MPa
The stats of NS rod are so far lower than Duronze and AMS 4640 I just don't want to use it. Until about 5 years ago I was making ferrules commercially from NS rod and had to make them with much thicker dimensions due to NS rod being weaker than drawn NS but this stuff is stronger than any specs I've found for drawn NS so it's much better material all round.
Even if NS is drawn the strongest 97800 can be is 310MPa which is lower than the yield strength of 4640.
There are other NS alloys, some may be stronger but I am pretty confident that none would approach AMS 4640.
So AMS 4640 is the stronger material though it is much more difficult to machine than NS. You have to slow right down in the drilling stages and use lots of suds at every stage.
They are made from rod stock, you can't cold work AMS 4640, nor is soldering recommended.
I haven't tried bluing it, I really should have by now but I've been waiting for people who've bought these from me to tell me what they've found with the various methods around.
I would think it would take a blue the same as Duroze as these are similar alloys, though this has more aluminium which makes it strong and tough, it also provides a protective oxidised layer on any freshly exposed surface which is where the bluing may be problematical.
I would imagine that buffing it, cleaning it and treating it would be ok, personally I'd use B&W fixer, the sodium thiosulphate is highly reactive with the copper.
Having said that I do need to try it.
The reason for the swelling above the slide on the male was purely for looks. If the welt on the female is wide enough to take the rope knurling the male slide looks in better proportion that way but it could be deleted. I'd leave some though for strength at that point for the maboo as much as anything else.
In fact it's not as wide as it looks, it's only 0.4mm wider than the slide, it just looks bigger in the greatly enlarged pic.
If you happen by my web site and want to contact me I've had intermittent problems with the email from the site that I can't work out.
my email address is:
avytasmania@gmail.com
Be great to make some of these for anybody interested, I think you'd like them.
Tony
Statistics: Posted by avyoung — 03/30/14 19:39