London is one of my favorite cities. I lived there briefly before I was married and made many wonderful friends. My family and I now travel there almost every summer and visit my London friends who now have children as well. My girls get such a kick out of the cabs in London – so different from the yellow taxis they see daily in Manhattan.
Traveling to London with your children may sound like a headache, but with so much to do and see in the city, it’s definitely worth it. And who better to provide an “inside scoop” to London than CitiScoop’s Travel Expert and new resident of London, Christina Ohly Evans.
-Tracey Frost Rensky, CEO and Co-founder, Citibabes
Looking for an easy European vacation with kids? It doesn't get any better than London, with its endless parks and green spaces, free museums, and incredibly kind cab drivers. I have the good fortune to be living here for the year and in addition to local explorations, London is the perfect jumping off point for trips to the rest of the United Kingdom (Scotland is beyond beautiful) as well as continental Europe. So set your fears of jet lag and insane expense aside (OK, it is a bit pricey), and explore this special city's pubs, theaters, monuments and more - and all with children in tow...
STAY
Number 16: Families are always welcome at this boutique hotel, part of the UK's Firmdale Hotels chain (they own Crosby Street Hotel in NYC). A quiet oasis in the heart of South Kensington, Number 16 feels like staying at a friend's house (if you had a posh English friend with an extremely large spread), complete with a colorful library, a conservatory, and a secluded back garden. Children will love the scale of the place - as well as the endless DVDs and popcorn - while you will appreciate being in walking distance of everything from the Science Museum to the Brompton Cross area with its restaurants, shops, quaint streets and picturesque squares. Take tea all day long in the area of your choosing (the garden is ideal on a summer day) or enlist the help of the cheerful concierge to get tickets to a show at nearby Royal Albert Hall.
Claridge's: When it comes to hotels, nobody does it better than the Brits. And this is certainly the case at Claridge's, the bustling Art Deco gem located in the heart of Mayfair. While this luxury hotel caters to business travelers and big spenders, they also genuinely "get" kids and their needs. Enlist the help of their amazing concierges who will orchestrate everything from a day at LegoLand in nearby Windsor, to high tea, to hard-to-score theatre tickets. If y
ou fancy a night out, experienced, engaging babysitters are on call and you'll be in striking distance to such delicious restaurants as Gordon Ramsay (just downstairs), C London (formerly Cipriani) and Scott's, a seafood institution.
The Corinthia: If you'd like to be in walking distance of Trafalgar Square, the London Eye, and Covent Garden, then nest at the swank Corinthia where a "Family Friendly" offer is on through December 31, 2012. The package includes two interconnecting rooms (the second room is free), champagne upon arrival, full English breakfast for four, games and much more. Kids will love feasting at the Northall, one of the hotel's several restaurants, that features some of the best steaks, locally-sourced fish, and crispiest chips in town. Retreat to the ESPA Spa, a four floor sanctuary with every imaginable treatment (the concierge will be happy to help with a sitter), or take older kids to the sleek, steel swimming pool for a little afternoon refreshment.
The Berkeley: If you're considering a summer visit, then the Berkeley is a great bet for its rooftop pool alone. Situated across from Hyde Park, The Berkeley is always buzzing with celebrities, captains of industry... and yes, kids. You'll love the muted tones of recently renovated rooms, while children will delight in their proximity to green space, a special "kid's concierge" to arrange cool activities for every age, as well as mezze and snacks from the Caramel Room restaurant on the ground floor. Parents, definitely make time for a glass of wine and some tasty tapas in the chic simple Blue Bar. If the fine dining at their Marcus Wareing restaurant doesn't appeal to smaller palates (the menu is heavy on local specialties such as Orkney scallops, Dorset turbot, Hardwick mutton, etc.), then nip just down the street to Wagamama in the basement of shopping mecca, Harvey Nichols. Warm bowls of udon and freshly squeezed juices will fuel everyone for afternoons of sightseeing.
Four Seasons Park Lane: Conveniently located at Hyde Park Corner, the newly refurbished Four Seasons is a kid (and parent!) delight. Rooms are spacious, quiet, and best of all the hotel attends to every child need – from age appropriate amenities (bathrobes and slippers for older kids; bath gels and whatever else you may need for babies) to an expansive library of DVDs to a concierge who will plan perfect days – and evenings – out. Take advantage of the hotel’s proximity to Hyde Park where kids can feed the swans or frolic in one of many playgrounds.
MyHotel: At the other end of the spectrum you'll find myHotel, a boutique inn nestled in the quiet neighborhood of Chelsea. This small spot is slightly mod and a bit worn around the edges, but is perfect for families due to its proximity to cultural highlights such as the Victoria & Albert Museum, St. Luke's Park and playground, as well kid-friendly dining at rotating sushi bar, Itsu, on Walton Street. Opt for one of the family-friendly accommodations that includes a separate living room area, flat screen TVs, a library of DVDs, as well as free wifi. The breakfast buffet is a plus, as are free muffins and the psychedelic fish tank in the lobby.
Sloane Square Hotel: Another affordable (relatively speaking!) option is this Chelsea hotel featuring Club rooms that work well for families, an in-house Brasserie for those jet-lagged burger cravings, and easy access to both the tube station and shopping on the King's Road. This is a great place from which to explore the Natural History Museum, mega-store Peter Jones (just across the Square), as well as the green spaces of the nearby Royal Hospital Gardens, site of the fantastic Chelsea Flower Show each May.
PLAY
Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens: No trip to London would ever be complete without a romp in Kensington Gardens and adjacent Hyde Park. In addition to lakes, meandering paths, swans and rental loungers (just in case the sun shines bright), you'll find playgrounds galore. The best one by far is the Princess Diana Memorial Playground, just past Kensington Palace and near the top of Notting Hill Gate. This Peter Pan themed play space features a safety gate so you won't have to worry about little ones escaping, as well as a giant pirate ship for climbing and imaginative play. Sand and water areas abound, as well as massive slides, ladders, musical machines and swings of all sizes. After a morning spent outdoors, have lunch at the Serpentine Bar & Kitchen (mid-park) or collect a picnic from nearby WholeFoods (Kensington High Street) and eat amidst the flowers at the south end of the park.
Science Museum: Along with San Francisco's Exploratorium, this is one of the greatest science museums for kids anywhere on the planet. Spend a rainy morning exploring everything from massive turbines to 3D movies to rocket ships and much more. Very young children will love The Garden, a water play area full of hands-on activities, while ages 5-8 will be amazed by the Pattern Pod where they'll learn through touch screens and colorful exhibits. Don't miss the Who Am I? exhibit and the flight simulation theater.
LEGOLAND: When your kids have had enough proper "culture", spend a day at LegoLand in nearby Windsor. Just a short drive or train ride away, LEGOLAND is a guaranteed hit for children ages 3-12 years old. This clean, interactive park features over 55 rides (wear appropriate clothing for water rides), building workshops, live entertainment and more. Set in 150 acres of woods, LEGOLAND is a great escape from the hustle and bustle of central London. Don't miss the Kingdom of the Pharaohs and the Vikings' River Splash on a warm summer’s day.
The London Eye: This amazing piece of engineering is a great way to see all of London from many different perspectives. Book your "flight" in advance as this is one of the most popular tourist sites in all of Europe and lines during the summer months can be quite long. Each full ride takes approximately 30 minutes and children can wander about the capsule freely which makes this workable for all ages, babies in strollers and so forth. The views of St. Paul's, the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben, as well as the meandering Thames are well worth the journey.
Tate Modern: While the collections of contemporary art may not be every kid's favorite, they'll marvel at the sheer enormous space that houses these works. This former turbine factory now serves as a museum that spreads out over seven lofty floors, and everyone will be dazzled by colorful works by such artists as Henri Matisse, Andy Warhol, and Britain's own, David Hockney. Check out special family programming by date, and consider taking a Tate to Tate boat ride (from the Tate Britain to the Tate Modern) on the Thames. Boats leave every forty minutes and tickets can be purchased in advance online. Other pluses here include the well-stocked gift shop - you'll find the best children's books, tasteful t-shirts, and more - and Cafe 2, a great spot for a lunch of fish and chips overlooking the river.
Tower of London: Children of all ages will be fascinated by this complex of towers, former jail cells, and the stunning collection of Crown Jewels. Over 20,000 gems make up this display, and it includes everything from rare diamonds to tiaras to sceptres and more. Visit the White Tower, a castle keep designed to keep away foreign invaders where kids can wear a gauntlet, draw a bow and generally learn about life in the tower through the centuries. A Yeoman Warder tour - by the iconic royal bodyguards known as "Beefeaters" - is included in the price of admission is an entertaining way to learn about the Tower and its' history of torture and intrigue. Be sure to book tickets online, especially during busy summer months.
Victoria & Albert Museum: You'll find something for everyone at this mega collection devoted to the worlds of art and design. From special fashion exhibits to the rooms devoted to the history of rock n' roll, kids will get swept up in the wide array of objects on display. Grab an Activity Back-pack, a special program designed for kids ages 5-12 years, and explore the galleries through fantastic stories, games, and treasure hunts. Choose from themes such as The Emperor's Party where kids imagine they are Indian royalty preparing for a gala, or the Time Traveler where they enter Medieval European life. Children under 5 get Agent Animal backpacks where an audio maps and colorful sensory cubes help them find animals hidden throughout the Asian galleries.
Westminster Abbey: Explore this 700 year old building in the heart of London. Kids will love the low-key scavenger hunts that are on offer throughout this gem of Gothic architecture. Kids ages 5+ can follow little books that help them to discover everything from stained glass windows to artifacts to burial sites. Be sure to visit the Abbey Gardens for a breath of fresh in warmer months.
Other best bets for kids: The London Aquarium, The London Zoo and Regent's Park, the War Rooms (for children ages 8+), St. Paul's Cathedral, and the less well-known but completely wonderful, Sir John Soane's Museum.
EAT
E&O and Eight Over Eight: While these restaurants get quite hip after 8 p.m., they are the perfect place to feed a family early. Grown-ups shouldn't miss their black cod with miso or their fresh Pad Thai (shrimp, chick or veggie versions), while children can sample crispy squid, chicken and snow pea shu mai or delicious fried rice dishes. Virtually the same menu is on offer at Eight Over Eight in nearby Chelsea, and the people watching at both spots is generally a big plus.
Itsu: Another small chain concept, Itsu is all about conveyor belt "sushi" with a twist. These restaurants are fun as much for the experience of picking tapas-style plates off the belt as they pass by, as it is about the food. You'll find Itsu's take on everything from California rolls to tuna ceviche, and the spinach and sesame salad should not be missed. Order hot dishes such as chicken skewers for smaller children or a la carte tuna and salmon sushi for more adventurous eaters.
Made in Italy: For unbelievably fresh pizza and pasta and grilled fish, head straight to one of these warm and inviting restaurants that work well for all ages. You'll find the freshest antipasti - Bruschettina Mediterranea and Frittura di Calamari e Zucchini - as well as rigatoni with homemade meatballs and pizzas made to order. Enormous wooden slabs emerge from wood-fired ovens and feature every topping imaginable. The Capricciosa (mozzarella, sausage, mushrooms, artichokes, ham) is not to be missed!
Maroush: With several locations scattered throughout London, these Lebanese favorites always deliver. With an emphasis on fresh vegetables, mezze, and grilled chicken, lamb, and fish, they are the perfect place to expand your child's palate while surrounding them with familiar foods at the same time. Start with hummous and housemade pita bread, falafel, and their signature Maroush salad. An order of Shish Taouk (marinated, grilled chicken skewers) with a side of Lebanese vermicelli rice will please even the pickiest of eaters and assorted baklava cap off any meal. Relatively cheap, always cheerful, Maroush is a must while in London.
Ottolenghi: If you're looking for great take-away vs. a sit down meal, then Ottolenghi is a great option for delicious prepared salads, upscale sandwiches and killer s'mores and meringues for dessert. With four locations from Islington to Kensington, this is the perfect place to amass a picnic and head to either Regent's or Hyde Park. If you're looking for a more formal meal with the same emphasis on healthy grains, fish and chicken dishes as well as interesting salads, then try Nopi, Yotem Ottolenghi's new restaurant which features communal tables and is perfectly located for pre-theater dining.
Pizza East: With Shoreditch and Notting Hill locations, Pizza East is a family dream come true with its combination of food kids love combined with a great atmosphere for parents. Kids of all ages will feel comfortable in the open and airy Shoreditch restaurant that holds up to 170 people and offers everything from fig, burrata, and honeycomb bruschetta to the classic pizza margherita. These inventive takes on the classic pizzeria make Pizza East incredibly popular so be sure to book ahead if possible.
Wagamama: This chain of noodle bars has been around for years, but the healthy fare, lively atmosphere and communal tables never get old. Pick from steaming bowls of ramen and udon, rice dishes as well as raw salads and freshly squeezed juices. The kids menu features mini versions of adult favorites as well chicken katsu and cod cubes, which little people love. Think open, airy cafeteria style dining which is perfect for families on the go.
Ziani's: This warm Venetian eatery hasn't changed much through the years and families always feel welcome at this Chelsea eatery. Order homemade pastas and lasagna, charcoal grilled fish, or the delicious veal milanese and everyone will be truly happy. A dessert of profiteroles is a must and if you happen to be celebrating a birthday, they'll help you with song, dance a killer cake. Ziani's is located near Sloane Square which is perfect for shopping along the King's Road, visiting the Chelsea Gardener (outdoor market and food area), and for a quick stop at the St. Luke's playground (perfect for kids ages 1-5 years).
SHOP
Caramel Baby & Child: Although you can find this brand in the States now, Caramel Baby & Child's UK boutique offers a wider array of lovely hand-knit items for ages 0-6 years. These clothes, shoes and accessories are not only fashionable (you'll wish they made smart coats and hand-woven knits in your size) but they are also completely functional and well made. Stock up on baby gifts - the cardigans are especially adorable - as well as uniquely British books and toys for the toddler set.
Hamley's: This much-loved store specializes in plush toys and you'll find animals of every imaginable shape and size here. In addition, there are massive amounts of Legos, Barbies, action figures and more at this 250 year-old institution. This spot is as much for looking as for buying, but kids will love spending a rainy afternoon looking through endless playthings.
Harrods: Yes, it’s big and garrish, but it is also a mandatory stop on any trip to London. Spread across seven enormous floors, you'll find everything from couture to Barbour rain gear for kids to gifts galore. Their toy department is massive - and very interactive - so kids can touch and play with everything from art projects to flying helicopters. There are also numerous restaurants and cafes spread throughout the building, and kids will especially love the Ice Cream Parlour on the 2nd floor, conveniently located near the toy section. Don't miss the famous Food Hall on the first floor where you can stock up on overpriced lemon curd and delicious Laduree macaroons to remember your trip.
Liberty: Located in an iconic Tudor building just off Regent Street, Liberty is a piece of British history that continues to grow from strength to strength (as they say). They carry the best selection of stationary and letterpress note cards anywhere, as well as fine clothing, home decor items, jewelry and more. The building itself is part of the draw here and the fabric section - complete with all of the fantastic floral prints that the brand is known for - is worth the visit alone. Afternoon tea and biscuits at the cafe offers the perfect pick-me-up for all ages.
Marks & Spencer: Affectionately known as M&S, this chain is the workhorse of London shopping life. You'll find everything here from children's clothing to the socks you forgot to pack to a wonderful supermarket of sorts. While many find it odd to buy everything from underwear to fresh fruit under one roof, M&S manages to do it well. This is the perfect place to gather a picnic lunch or to stock up on breakfast foods for your hotel room. Don't miss their selection of berries, cheeses and freshly baked goods. Multiple locations throughout the city.
Trotters: This is a great place to stock up on British clothes and accessories for little people. You'll find such sweet items as Aigle boots, quilted jackets, and sweet Union Jack sweaters, too. In addition, there is a wide array of accessories on offer including hair things, hats and mittens, and a well-edited selection of books for ages 0-8 years. Trotters also specializes in haircuts and proper shoe fittings so if you've forgotten to do either back home, then this is the place for your kids.
By Christina Ohly Evans, CitiScoop’s Travel Expert