Beautifully designed 17″ band saw — Grizzly G0513ANV. (Buy from Amazon)
If you’re looking for a band saw then you’ll love our comprehensive buying guide to help you choose the best band saw for your cutting needs. The first part of the article is intended to educate you on everything you need to know so you can make a smart buying decision. The last section of the article focuses on our recommendations for the top rated band saws like the Grizzly G0513ANV (shown above) and the JET JWBS-14DXPRO — with detailed information on each one.
We hope you find this band saw buying guide helpful. We did the research so you don’t have to.
Note: This article is currently in progress so be patient. Many more photo’s will be coming very shortly.
What is a Band Saw?
Band saws are probably one of the most underrated woodworking tools in existence. They are never the first item on a novice woodworkers list, even though a band saws versatility and precision is nearly unmatched, greatly surpassing that of any table saw or miter saw. If you are an aspiring woodworker, a DIY enthusiast, or plan to set up your own little workshop at home, than you must definitely get a good band saw as it will allow you to create marvelous projects and extremely intricate cuts with great ease.
Both table-top and stand mounted models are available, each with its own benefits and demerits. In this article, we shall discuss about the types of band saws, along with the differences between each type. Before that however, we shall discuss how a band saw works and elaborate on the most important parts inside a band saw. Then we will take a look at the features desired from a good band saw, and explain how you can select the perfect model for your specific woodworking needs.
Band Saws Uses/Applications?
If you’re not familiar with the concept of using a band saw, then you have been missing out on a really amazing world of opportunities. While band saws are normally used to carve and shape curvaceous wood stock, they can also be used for re-sawing and crosscuts. Re-sawing is basically the process of taking a flat plank of wood, and cutting it into two thinner planks of equivalent area. You saw the board of wood along its width, like cutting open a long roll of bread to get it ready for use in a sub sandwich. The same method can be used to slice thinner slices out of thicker board, which is called veneering.
Veneers are like ply boards and are extensively used in cabinet doors, wooden windows, etc. Often times when you receive a set of boards or planks from the wooden mill, you will notice that the edges are not perfectly trim and have spiky extrusions coming out of the surface. This is because milling machines create a very coarse cut while processing wooden logs, since their blades rip through the wood instead of slicing through it. With a band saw however, you can trim away little slices from the cross section of wooden poles or boards, resulting in a perfectly clean and almost polished finish.
This is basically like freehand sawing with a handsaw, except this time you don’t have to be a skilled carpenter to create a precise and accurate cut across the line. Not to mention the several hours of time that you save by doing your work on a machine. While it might take you anywhere between 15 minutes to half an hour to re-saw a board, or reset the edge of a plank, the same can be done within a couple of minutes on a good band saw. And let’s not forget the fact that you barely break a sweat while pushing the wooden plank throw the running blade of a band saw.
Now compare that to working your way through a 12” wide wooden board made from mahogany with a handsaw. Only experience woodworkers have the skill and stamina to cut through a wide board made from hardwood, and you must remember that as the length and width of your board increases you also need a longer and heavier handsaw to cut across it. Heavier and longer handsaws are incredibly tough to handle for novices, so you end up spending more time on the sawing aspect while making your own cabinet or table, rather than thinking about the actual design and layout.
Another usage scenario for a band saw is when you need to cut curves into the wooden plank or stock. Unlike a table saw or miter saw, the band saw is extremely adept at freehand cutting. By decreasing the width of your blade, you can cut tighter curves. This comes in handy while making table legs, photo frames, cabinet – panels, chair backrests, etc. You can go wherever your creativity takes you, as long as you know the basic operation principles of a band saw.
Cabriole legs, dovetails, ripping, crosscuts, re-sawing, and resetting edges – the band saw can handle it all. But before you rush out there and grab yourself a band saw, we suggest that you read on ahead in order to learn about the inner working of a band saw. It might be an incredibly simplistic machine but there are some things that you absolutely need to know in order to make the right selection. Not only that, unless you know which part does what, you cannot maintain the band saw and keep it running at max efficiency.
How a Band Saw Works?
The band saw is basically a metallic strip or “band” that is wrapped around 2 or 3 pulleys. Think of it like a chainsaw, except this time you have a band instead of a toothed chain with blades attached to the chain sections. The band saw blade can be narrow or wide, and it can have varying tooth densities. By tooth densities, we mean the number of cutting teeth per inch.
The fewer this number, the coarser the cut. With higher tooth densities, you get a finer cut. We shall talk more about this later, but for now you just need to know that the basic band saw is a stationary machine with two pulleys, and a toothed metal band wrapped around these two pulleys.
One of the pulleys is powered, I.E. attached to a motor of some type (electric or internal combustion). The other pulley spins freely, and serves as the tension adjustment wheel. What this means is that you can move the unpowered pulley up or down since it is attached to a sliding rail and spring system. When you loosen the tension, the top pulley moves closer towards the bottom pulley. This allows you to slide the band in and out with ease, or adjust the chain if it is not aligned properly.
If you increase the tension, you are moving the top pulley away from the bottom pulley. This secures the band in place and prevents it from slipping out during operation. Too much tension will prevent the machine from working properly, and might even break the band prematurely by putting excessive stress on it. Apply too little tension, and you will find that the band slips or gets jammed in hardwood stocks.
The amount of tension that you should apply to a band depends on its tensile strength. We shall talk about the different types of blades and how you can choose the right blade for your specific usage scenario in a later part.
Unlike a miter saw, there is no danger of kickback with a band saw. This is why it so safe to do freehand cutting with one of these machines, and since the blade always run from the top to bottom, you can slice through wood with a clean and consistent cut. When you re-saw a board or plank with a band saw, the consistent cutting action will ensure that you get an even and similar grain across the two faces. This will allow you to use the two boards side by side for a project such as a tabletop or the doors of a cabinet.
Major Band Saw Parts
— Frame
The frame of a band saw is what holds all of the components together, nice and tight. If you choose to go with a plastic or wooden frame, you will succeed in lowering the costs but the overall usage experience will not be that good. Not only is a plastic frame lighter and less sturdy, but it will also develop cracks and dents over time if the pulleys are too big and heavy.
Normally, you should never exceed a pulley size of 12” on a plastic frame, since anything after that will simply be too heavy for the plastic to support. With cast iron or steel sheet frames you will not have to worry about your saw wobbling in the middle of cutting through a log of wood.
Yes, you can use a band saw to slice through a log of wood. That is with the correct blade and motor of course. Cast iron frames are the heaviest and sturdiest of them all, since they are built out of a solid, heavy chunk of molded iron with fewer welded joints or weak points. Sheet metal is also good, but only if you have multi-layer sheet support.
Make sure that a frame made from sheet metal has at least 2 layers or 2 separate frames in it. Check the gauge of the sheet metal used, as well as the weight of the machine. Heavier machines will stay steady no matter what type of wood you pass through the saw band. This allows you to execute more precise, clean cuts.
— Pulleys/ Blade Wheels
There may be 2 or 3 pulleys depending on the design of the band saw. If it is a portable or table-top band saw, then there will be 3 pulleys arranged in a triangular configuration. Of these, one will be attached to the motor while another one will be adjustable to increase or decrease the tension. The third pulley is there only to increase the cutting width, since table top or stand mounted machines often have smaller pulleys and a shorter cutting height (typically around 6”).
If the manufacturers were to implement the conventional top-bottom 2 pulley layout here, it would seriously hamper the cutting width (the distance from the inside face of the cutting band to the opposite edge of the cutting table). Try to check the material from which the wheels or pulleys have been made before you purchase the machine. If it is cast iron, then that is good.
Alloys tend to be lighter and hence carry less rotational momentum. Think of a heavier pulley as a flywheel – it will compensate for an under-powered motor and ensures a smooth, consistent spinning action. With a heavier pulley, you don’t have to worry about the teeth getting jammed in the wood as much as you would with a lighter pulley that is much easier to stop mid-rotation. Before starting the machine, you need to make sure that the pulleys are all properly aligned. This can be adjusted via the wheel/pulley alignment sidebar.
— Motor
Are you cutting hardwoods and large wooden stock on a regular basis? Then you might need a motor that is rated at 1 horsepower or above. For DIY projects, and in-home workshops, a motor with anywhere between 0.5-0.75 horsepower should suffice. Remember that your motor has to work harder if it is weaker. When working harder, it will generate more heat and friction. So if your motor has to push 100% load at all times, that cannot be good for its lifetime.
If your primary workload is to do craft work and some occasional re-sawing of small 6” planks, then a weaker motor will suffice. But if you need to set up a workshop for making hardwood tables, cabinets, planks, veneers, ply, etc., then invest in a slightly larger motor for extra convenience.
Don’t try to force the wood through the saw blade if your motor is struggling – this will jam the band or stall the motor altogether. Feed rate should be adjusted according to the speed of the band and the load on the motor, as well as the thickness or hardness of the wood.
— Blade guides and thrust bearings
The blade tends to wobble and deviate from its idle shape while cutting through wood, since it is not a perfectly solid blade but a flexible band. In order to prevent this from happening, blade guides are installed on either side of the band. A thrust bearing is installed behind the band to prevent it from moving horizontally as the wood is fed into it. This entire assembly is called a “guide block”.
There are two guide blocks, one above the table and the other one underneath the table. The thrust bearings and guides are usually made of metal. You can adjust the lateral guides and thrust bearing on either of the two blocks via some screw mechanisms that will move the bearings towards the band, or away from it. Normally, you check for optimal positioning by sliding a piece of paper between the band and the guide bearing.
If the paper just manages to creep in, then you’ve got the perfect alignment. Many professional woodworkers replace their default metal guides with “cool blocks”. These are synthetic, graphite-impregnated metallic laminates that offer much lower friction than conventional metallic guide blocks. But they also cost more, and you don’t need them unless you use your machine on a regular basis.
Ceramic blocks are also a great way to reduce friction between the band and guide blocks, since ceramic is smoother than metal and will not wear out easily.
— The band
You can’t have a band saw without a band, just like you can’t have a chainsaw without the chain. The band on a band saw is also known as the “blade”. It is a continuous looping saw blade, which is wrapped and tensioned around a pulley configuration. This never ending saw blade spins on the wheels or pulleys, and makes contact with them via a rubber track or “tire”.
There are a multitude of blade types out there, and some are engineered to do curvaceous cuts while the others are designed to rip through big hunks of hardwood. Some are so thin that you can cut precise dovetails or notches into the wooden board with them, while others are so wide that you will be better off sawing wooden logs with them. Some have steel teeth, so you can use them to slice through wood or softer metals such as aluminum, copper, tin, etc. Others have carbide-impregnated teeth that are so hard you can rip through stainless steel with them.
There are band saw blades with as few as 1-2 teeth per inch, while others have as many as 24 teeth per inch. Fewer teeth per inch are better for cutting through large, thick wooden logs and blocks. Finer cuts and precise machining of metal tubes requires an array of small teeth, spaced really close to each other.
— Table
This is the surface on top of which you shall unleash your creative tendencies. It is equipped with a throat plate in the center, and this is where the saw blade passes through. The table is supported by trunnions, which are semi-circular brackets that allow the table to tilt by as much as 45-degrees .
You will need to tilt the table in order to work on curved or cylindrical stock, so make sure that the trunnions are not made from some cheap metal like zinc alloy or pot metal. Stainless steel or cast iron trunnions are the best, as they are capable of handling the weight larger wooden stock as well as your own body weight since you will often find yourself pressing down on the table as you push the wooden pole or plank through the saw blade.
If the default table provided by the manufacturer of the band saw unit proves to be too small, you can always carve yourself a custom tabletop to put on top of the default table.
Two Types of Band Saws
— Vertical Band saws
In a vertical band saw the cutting position of the blade is vertical, i.e. it cuts into the side of the stock. A basic vertical machine consists of two pulleys, one of which is idle and the other is attached to a motor through a belt drive. The belt is mated with a variable speed motor that allows for adjustment of blade speed. The idler wheel or pulley is mounted above the table, while the drive wheel is mounted beneath the table. The wooden stock is moved against the blade in a horizontal manner to make cuts. The table on which the stock rests can be tilted forward, backward, or sideways to allow for mitered cuts. In this type of band saw, you need to manually feed the stock into the cutting blade.
— Horizontal Band saws
In this case, the pulleys are mounted lengthwise on the frame, with the blade mounted horizontally and the teeth facing downwards. This is actually much closer to a chainsaw, except for the fact that it is fixed and is huge. With horizontal band saws, you have to put in much less effort while feeding the wooden stock into the blade, since most of the work is done by gravity. However, these are normally floor-mounted machines that take up much more space compared to a vertical band saw.
Rather than wooden stock, horizontal band saws are more commonly used for cutting steel tubing, metal blocks, and other hard materials. This is not as versatile as the vertical band saw, since you will find that making cross cuts, curved cuts, etc. is much harder. But a horizontal band saw excels at cutting stock to length, which is why it is used for re edging or re sawing poles, tubes, pipes, and sticks.
Note, the band of a horizontal band saw is slightly different from that of a vertical band saw. It is not mounted laterally onto the tracks of the pulley, but vertically like a chainsaw blade.
— How to choose the right Band Saw
If you’ve come this far then you probably know how a band saw functions, and you must have also realized which parts determine the saws cutting speed, the size of what it can cut, etc. Now, we shall take a look at the factors that need to be considered while selecting a band saw.
Selecting the blade — (IMPORTANT)
There are six steps to selecting the perfect blade for your band saw, based on your specific requirements:
Step one : Choosing the material
For metal cutting band saws, we recommend that you use bimetal blades or carbon tool steel blades. Carbon tool steel blades will be cheaper than bi-metal blades, and can cut through mild steel fairly easily if you use blade speeds under 200 fpm (feet per minute). Use coolant on your carbon tool steel blades while cutting through metal if you want to keep the blade from wearing down too quick.
If you want your blades to last much longer, get a bi-metal blade. These are made by electron beam welding a strip of carbide onto a strip of high strength steel, and then the teeth are punched into the carbide strip. Bi-metal blades can last up to 10 times longer than carbon tool steel blades and will also cut into harder metals.
For woodworkers, we recommend standard carbon tool steel blades. If you’re going to be doing a lot of re-sawing then we recommend a special *low-kerf blade. These are thinner and generate less waste as they cut a finer line. Carbide impregnated re-saw blades are great for making plies and veneers as well, and can even cut through some soft (non-ferrous metals), albeit at reduced speeds. Take a look at the specs sheet on your blade package to learn more about what materials it can cut through, and at which speeds.
*What does “kerf” mean? from Wikipedia under “saw“
The width of a saw cut, which depends on several factors: the width of the saw blade; the set of the blade’s teeth; the amount of wobble created during cutting; and the amount of material pulled out of the sides of the cut. Although the term “kerf” is often used informally, to refer simply to the thickness of the saw blade, or to the width of the set, this can be misleading, because blades with the same thickness and set may create different kerfs. For example, a too-thin blade can cause excessive wobble, creating a wider-than-expected kerf.
For table-mounted two or three wheeler band saws, you should never use a standard thickness blade as the smaller wheels will cause the blade to flex beyond its normal tolerance limits, resulting in a shortened blade life. For these small band saws, you must get a very thin blade and there are special “three wheeler” band saw blades available in the market.
Step Two – Choosing the blade width
Some horizontal metal cutting band saws are only capable of supporting a fixed blade width, so you must check with your manufacturer if you own one of those horizontal band saws designed to slice metal. But for most vertical band saws, you should be able to fit in a blade width ranging from as small as 1/8” to as big as ¾”, or even 1”.
The smaller your blade width, the tighter it can turn while cutting curves. We are going to leave it up to you to decide how big or small of a circle cut you wish to make, and there are several charts on the internet that provide you the blade widths along with their corresponding minimum circle radius (the radius of the smallest circle that you can cut with that particular blade). To give you a rough idea, a 1/8” blade can cut out a circle with a radius of 3/16”. With a 1” blade width, that radius increases to 7”.
Step Three : Choosing the tooth pattern
Use regular tooth blades for cutting thin materials, or where you require a fine finish. This pattern consists of proportionally spaced out teeth, and is good for both cut-off and contour sawing. With skip-tooth blades, you will notice that the teeth are more spaced out and have a 0° rake angle between them in order to prevent clogging.
Skip-tooth blades are good for cutting plastics, soft-wood, and non-ferrous metals (aluminum, tin, copper, etc.). If you wish to “rip” through stuff really fast, you need a hook-tooth blade. Just like the name indicates, the teeth on these blades are larger with a positive 10° angle, and a deeper gullet. Remember that hook tooth blades are not suited for cutting soft wood or plastic since they can clog and will deliver a coarser cut. Use them for cutting through metals or hardwood instead, as they will allow for faster cutting rates.
If you want to cut curves or do joinery, then select a variable pitch blade. These contain alternately arranged sets of teeth that feature varying sizes. The result is a smooth finish, with moderate-high cutting speed.
Step Four : Teeth per inch
More teeth per inch (TPI) will result in a smoother finish but lower feed rate. Fewer teeth per inch will give a faster feed rate at the cost of a coarser finish. Your goal is to get a perfect balance between finish and feed rate. The thickness and hardness of the material you’re cutting also plays a role in determining the TPI of your band saw blade. For precision cutting, we recommend 3 as the minimum number of teeth that should be embedded into the material at any given time. For re-sawing and cutting through thicker materials, use a TPI of 2 or 3. Something in the range of 6 to 8 would serve as a decent general-purpose blade. For cutting thin metal pipes and tubes (under ¼” in thickness), we recommend a TPI anywhere between 18 and 32.
Step Five : Choosing the blade thickness
The blade thickness refers to the distance between the two flat sides of the blade, i.e. its lateral width. Thickness of blades should be determined based on the wheel size, and the work that is to be done. Thicker blades can be subjected to higher tension levels because of their higher tensile strength.
For wheels of diameter between 4 and 6 inches, we recommend a blade thickness of no more than 0.014”. For wheels between 6-8 inches, get a 0.018” thick blade. For a wheel sized in between 8-10”, the recommended blade thickness is 0.020”. There are simply too many wheel sizes and blade thicknesses out there, and we cannot cover them all since that itself would take up quite a lot of space and time…but you get the idea, right?
Thick blades can withstand more strain while doing straight cuts, but they don’t like to do curved cuts in which there is too much bending or twisting. Thinner blades are recommended for work that is done on softer wood, or requires a lot of tight curved cuts to be made.
Step Six: Selecting the right size
Confused as to what the length of the blade should be on your new machine, or the machine that you plan on buying? If you don’t have a manual, or if you have one and are too lazy to read through it then follow these simple steps to calculate the blade length for your band saw.
For a two-wheeled pulley:
Set the pulleys in working position, i.e. align them properly and set some tension on the top wheel.
Determine the distance between the central hubs of the lower and upper wheel. This is “C”.
Determine radius of upper and lower wheels, call them “R1” and “R2” respectively.
Let’s say blade length is “L”. Then, L = (R1 X 3.1416) + (R2 X 3.1416) + (2 X C).
For a three-wheeled pulley:
Set the pulleys in working position, i.e. align them properly and set some tension on the top wheel.
Measure the center to center distance between the two drive wheels, call this “C”.
Measure the radius of the upper and lower drive wheels. Let them be R1 and R2 respectively.
Blade length L = (R1 X 3.1416) + (R2 X 3.1416) + (2 X C).
Super simple, right?
How much horsepower do you need?
Normally, you don’t need more than 0.75 horsepower in your drive motor, unless you plan on doing a lot of re-sawing and thick stock cutting. Anything between 0.5 and 0.75 is good for basic carpentry work, and that includes craftwork, resetting edges, creating veneers, etc. If you will be working a lot with hardwoods such as oak, mahogany, etc. then invest in a motor that has at least 1 horsepower of power. Having a little extra muscle will never hurt, since you will have more headroom to work with and your motor will last longer as it runs cooler (because you are far from needing all of that power).
Important things to focus on:
A large outlet port for all of the sawdust and fillings.
Easily available spare parts and a solid warranty.
Easy to adjust wheels, and low-friction blade guides.
Table quality (metal/wood/plastic) and any included accessories such as fences, lights, etc.
Frame design (Is it cast iron/ sheet steel? or wood/plastic?) and ease of access for maintenance (oiling, wheel alignment, replacing parts, etc.)
Some of the Best Band Saws on the Market
Now that you are familiar with the various components of a band saw and how it works, we would like to show you some of the best band saws currently available on the market. You can select any of these for your personal home/workshop use, as they are all great machines that feature superb build quality and industry-leading warranties. Each one of these models has been selected on the basis of customer reviews, design, specifications, and relative price/performance ratio. Just taking a look at the overview of each model will give you a good idea of what to expect from a great band saw.
Grizzly G0513ANV | 17″ | Best Band Saw
Features:
Deluxe extruded-aluminum fence
Includes miter gauge
Two 4″ dust ports
Quick-change blade release/tensioner
Blade tension indicator
Micro-adjusting geared table
Blade height scale measurement
Blade tracking window
Includes 1/2″ 6-TPI hook blade
Overview | Grizzly G0513ANV
The Grizzly G0513ANV is the anniversary edition model of the G0513. Exact same machine, but with some neat little paintjob mods that make it stand out from the rest of Grizzly’s product lineup. There is a large grizzly bear painted onto the top cabinet that houses the idler wheel. The bottom drive wheel is housed behind a cabinet door that has “Grizzly” painted in orange with a golden “30th Anniversary” badge embossed beneath.
The entire frame is made from solid sheet metal, while top and bottom cabinets feature locking doors for easy access to the wheels. Talking of wheels, this vertical band saw features 17” cast aluminum wheels on either end of the frame. The tension on the top wheel or idler wheel can easily be adjusted via a long lever on the back of the machine.
There is a little cutout toward the bottom left corner of the top cabinet door. This cutout is fitted with a glass window and it allows you to see how much tension you are putting on the wheel without having to open the cabinet door. There is a yellow hand that moves on a scale that is marked to give you an indication of how much tension you are applying. This feature is especially useful if you are scared of adjusting the tension while keeping the cabinet open, since a faulty blade or extra-wide blade might spring out of the wheel tracks and snap at you if your wheels are not aligned properly, or if you try to run the wheels while adjusting the tension.
In a way, this is as much of a security measure as it is a convenience add-in for the user. There is another cutout on the side of the cabinet for both the top as well as the bottom wheels. This will allow you to see if the band saw blade is running properly on the tracks, since these blades do tend to “derail” at times if the tension gets too low or if the blades have worn out.
The black and orange color scheme on this anniversary edition machine make it different and better looking than any other band saw out there, and since it is available in limited numbers you might want to get yours while stocks last. But hold on a minute – we are not saying that the impressive color scheme and unique body finish are the only reasons this machine is so good. Even the innovative cutouts in the cabinet are not enough to make us recommend a particular band saw machine. It needs to perform.
Well, does the Grizzly G05013ANV perform? The answer is “Yes!”, and much better than you would expect from a band saw in this price range. It features a powerful 2hp motor which provides more than enough power for re-sawing through wood as thick as 12”. By wood, we mean the hardest ones. Such as cherry wood, green oak, teak, etc.
You can actually split logs of green cherry wood in less than 20 seconds with this band saw, just snap a 1” wide 3TPI blade onto it and watch the log glide across the blade. You won’t even have to apply any force while feeding the log into this machine – it packs enough power to slice through hardwood logs like a knife through butter.
The heavy 17” cast aluminum wheels allow for smooth and consistent rotatory motion, while the dual 4” dust ports suck make sure that no sawdust accumulates on the precision-ground cast iron working table. The European style blade guides unsure that the blade never distorts or bends even when you expose all 12” of the cutting edge by raising the blade guard. That’s right, this saw has a maximum sawing height of 12”, and a 17” throat (because of the 17” wheels, duh).
The thrust bearings for the blade are sealed and permanently lubricated to reduce maintenance, and increase lifetime. There are two blade speeds – 1700 rpm and 3500 rpm. The wheels are computer-balanced for precise alignment, and feature polyurethane tires on the top to increase grip between the blade and wheel. This will prevent jamming and slipping while cutting through hard wood.
The table also comes with an extruded aluminum fence, and a miter gauge. A micro-adjusting geared table has also been thrown for precise cutting.
Specs (Grizzly G0513ANV):
Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, TEFC capacitor start induction, 1725 RPM, 60 Hz, prewired 220V
Amps: 20A at 110V, 10A at 220V
Power transfer: Belt drive
Precision-ground cast-iron table
Table size: 17″ x 17″ x 1-1/2″
Table tilt: 10° left, 45° right
Floor to table height: 37.5″
Cutting capacity/throat: 16.25″ left of blade
Maximum cutting height: 12-1/8″
Blade size: 131.5″ long
Blade width range: 1/8″ to 1″ wide
2 blade speeds: 1700 and 3500 FPM
Wheels: Computer-balanced cast-aluminum with polyurethane tires
Wheel covers: Pre-formed steel
Blade guides: Euro-style roller disc with full enclosure protection
Bearings: Sealed and permanently lubricated
Overall size: 73″ H x 32″ W x 32″ D
Approximate shipping weight: 342 lbs.
JET JWBS-14DXPRO | 14″ PRO | Best Band Saw
Features:
Built-in 12″ resaw capacity for cutting larger pieces of wood
2 Speed poly-v belt drive system
Upper and lower cast iron frame for increased strength and rigidity
Easy to view blade tracking window
Blade guide post with rack and pinion adjustment
Upper and lower ball bearing guides reduce friction for longer blade life
Quick release blade tension for convenience
Enclosed stand with storage shelf and easy access door
Built-in retractable blade guard moves vertically from 0-12” resaw
High tension spring design allows for greater blade tensioning
Overview | JET JWBS-14DXPRO
While this is indeed a compact stand-mounted vertical band saw, the JET JWBS-14DXPRO actually performs like a large cabinet style band saw. One of the pros to having a stand mounted band saw where the motor does not reside in the lower stand cabinet, is the fact that the entire lower cabinet can be used like a little storage compartment for all of your wood cutting tools such as fence, gauge, blade, etc.
Despite its small footprint, the Jet JWBS-14DXPRO boasts a 12” re-saw height thanks to the built-in 6” riser mechanism. Blade speed can switch between 1500/3000 feet per minute, depending on your needs. The drive wheel is rotated with a v-belt drive that is connected to a 1.25hp electric motor. Both the top and bottom wheels are made from cast iron, and are 14” in diameter.
One thing to be noted here is that the lower 14” size does not mean that these wheels are not as smooth as the larger 16” and 18” wheels. In fact, the very fact that they are made from cast iron means that they will be heavier than 16” and even some 18” wheels that are made from aluminum. This extra weight allows for smoother motion, and the added rotational momentum will allow the slightly under-powered motor to slice through 12” thick boards or logs of hardwood with relative ease.
There is a single 4” dust port below the cast iron 15” x 15” table. The entire frame is made from cast iron, so this machine is pretty heavy despite its small size. You can attach roller wheels beneath the base if you wish to move it around inside your workshop. Minimum saw blade width is 1/8”, while the maximum is 3/4″. Maximum cutting width is 13.5”, while the table height from the floor is 43.5”. One of the best things about this particular band saw is the 5 year warranty that is anywhere between 1-2 years more than what most of the competitors offer.
Tech Specs:
Band Saw Size/Wheel Diameter : 14″
Cutting Capacity Width : 13.5″
Cutting Capacity Height: 12″
Blade Length : 105″
Blade Speed (SFPM) : 1500/3000
Table Size (L x W) : 15 x 15″
Maximum Saw Blade Width : 3/4″
Minimum Saw Blade Width : 1/8″
Table Tilt (Deg.) : 10 L, 45 R
Table Height from Floor : 43.5″
Dust Collection Minimum CFM Required (CFM) : 300
Dust Port Outside Diameter : 4″
Motor Power : 1.25 Hp
WEN 3962 | 10″ : 2-Speed | Best Band Saw
Features:
3.5 amp motor creates cuts up to six inches deep and 9-3/4 inches wide
Uses 72-inch blades anywhere from 1/8 to 1/2 inches in size
Spacious 14-1/8 x 12-1/2 inch work table bevels up to 45 degrees
Operates at two speeds of either 1520 or 2620 FPM
Includes a 2-year warranty, a work light, a 3-in-1 dust port, a fence and a miter gauge
Overview
Just like the JET model that we reviewed above, the WEN model 3962 is a stand-mounted vertical band saw. However, it does not include a 6” riser like the JET model. This means that the maximum cutting height of the 3962 is limited to 6”, which is half of what the JET has to offer. You can install a riser by purchasing one from the market and fitting it in yourself, but that will add an extra 60 or 70 bucks to the price.
But worry not – this is definitely one of the most affordable band saws out there at just under 300 USD, and even if you include the price of the riser the total will still end up to be less than most of the other stand mounted band saws that offer a 12” re-saw capability. The throat depth is 9.75”, and this might be a little too small for anyone who runs a carpentry shop or home-based workshop. It is perfect for basic woodworking though, and will allow you to create veneers, plies, and boards for small to medium sized tables and cabinets.
You will find this band saw to be perfect for craft work, and for carving small but intricate patterns that require a lot of precision. Examples – dovetails, frames, cabriole legs, etc. The worktable is small, but at least you get a built-in work light that allows you to work in places which are not naturally illuminated, or in low light conditions. This built-in light is a feature that we haven’t seen on a lot of band saws, even the expensive 17” models that cost twice as much as this 10” band saw.
It’s these little things that make working on this WEN band saw a truly enjoyable experience, thanks to the light with which you can make incredibly complex cuts. There are European style roller guides on the blades, and the thrust bearing is sealed and self-lubricating for extra lifetime and lower maintenance. The work table is 14.12” x 12.5”, and comes with a built-in miter gauge as well as a precision machined aluminum fence.
The tiny 3.5A electric motor can spin at two different speeds, and those will spin the blade at speeds of 1520/2620 fpm. The 3-in-1 extractor hose on this machine is a welcome addition, a feature that we don’t find on band saws this cheap. What it allows you do is fit extractor hoses of three different sizes – 1.75”, 2.75”, and 4”. You can fit one hose at a time of course, but the fact that you can attach hoses of different sizes into the port means that you don’t have to rush out there and buy a new hose if you don’t have the appropriate size (which is the case with a lot of band saws that have their own specific hose sizes).
Also, you can attach a smaller hose while working on a small project, and a larger hose while working on something such as a softwood pole, log, etc.
Tech Specs:
Motor: 120 V, 60 Hz, 375W, 3.5A
Throat: 9.75-inches
Cutting Depth: 6-inches
Speeds: 1520/2620 FPM
Table Angle: 0 to 45 degrees
Working Table: 14-1/8 x 12-1/2 inches
Blade Length: 72-inches
Blade Width: 1/8 to 1/2 inches
Weight: 83.3 lbs.
Rikon 10-305 | 10″ (with fence) | Best Band Saw
Features:
Solid Steel Design- The 10-305 is a scaled down version of the popular 10-345 and 10-325. Frame is made of steel plate, stronger than plastic frames used by other manufactures
Cast Iron Table-Large 13-3/4-Inch by 12-1/2-Inch sturdy work surface, a feature not typically found on a bandsaw of this size
Rip Fence- A quality rip fence is now included. Easily removed to do free hand work
Motor – 1/3HP motor provides ample power for cutting bowl and pen blanks
Micro Adjustable Guide Post- Raise and lower the guide post height with the turn of a handle
This tiny marvel from Rikon is a 10” vertical, stand-mounted band saw that provides amazing performance at a very affordable price. While Rikon is not as popular of a power tools company as WEN or Grizzly, they do manufacture some damn good products from time to time. The best part is that every single Rikon band saw is designed and assembled on American soil, so you can rest assured that these machines will be built with nothing but top-notch parts.
If the 4-5/8” re-saw capacity seems a little low, you can install an aftermarket riser to further expand on this machines capacity. The initial cost is so low, that you will end up spending less than you would have on a comparable 10” vertical band saw from a competitor, even after installing the riser. The frame is made from cast iron, just like the 13.75” x 12.5” cutting table.
The maximum cutting width (throat depth) is 9-5/8”. It features a measly 1/3hp electric motor that seems slightly underpowered at first, but if you think about the fact that the re-saw capacity is just 4-5/8”, this number does seem bad at all. For reference, a ½ or 0.5hp motor is all you need for re-sawing 6” tall boards. The maximum speed that this 4.5A motor can push the blades at, is a pretty respectable 2780 feet/min. The 10” cast iron flywheels are coated with polyurethane tracks, and can accommodate blades anywhere between 1/8” and ½” in width.
Although this saw includes a nice little rip fence on the table with an integral inch scale, it does not come with a miter gauge. The dust port on the back can accept hoses of size 2.5”, and the whole unit measures just 32.5” tall, while weighing only 66 pounds (pretty light for a vertical band saw with a cast iron frame). This saw serves as a nice little band saw for beginners, as well as a brilliant dedicated small re-sawing and ripping machine.
Delta 28-400 | 14″ | Best Band Saw
Features:
Heavy duty steel frame design reduces flexing and features a superior finish and aluminum trunnion table support for long-lasting durability
Two speed drive system featuring tool less belt tensioning
Durable aluminum, rubber-coated upper and lower 9 spoke wheels are precision balanced for superior blade tracking
Standard size t-slot accepts all 3/4 in. x 3/8 in. miter gauges
Precision ball bearing upper and lower blade guides ensure consistent tracking for accurate cutting performance
Oversized table insert provides visibility when adjusting lower blade guides
Larger insert for visibility when changing lower guide settings
Includes 4 in. integral dust port, steel stand and a 93 1/2 in. wood-cutting blade
Overview | Delta 28-400
Delta Machinery always impressed us with their rock solid build quality, and this time is no different. The model 28-400 from Delta packs one of the best frames that we have ever seen on a vertical band saw, along with a really well-built cutting table that is a joy to work on. The frame of this stand mounted 14” band saw is made from steel, and the 9-spoke wheels on either end are built with cast aluminum.
The coating on these wheels is rubber, and although this is not polyurethane you should not worry about the lifetime or grip. In fact, a rubber track on the wheels ensures silent operation, and allows for smoother removal as well as installation of a new blade. The precision milled upper and lower ball bearing guides guarantee rock solid tracking, which means that you can focus on the wood instead of adjusting the blade alignment every 5 minutes.
Changing the guide settings is super easy thanks to an oversized table insert. Along with this saw, you also get a black steel stand, on which you shall mount the unit with the help of some screws and bolts. There is a 4” dust port built-in, along with a standard T-slot to accept miter gauges. Unfortunately, there is no built-in fence on the working table.
The two speed drive system can be controlled by an easy to access switch on the back, and right next to that you will find the tool-less belt adjustment system. Now, you can adjust the v-belt that connects the 1hp motor with the drive wheel without even having to open the lower cabinet door. Aluminum trunnions beneath the tilting work table ensure stability and longer lifespan.
Tech Details:
Motor : 1 HP, 120V
Cutting Capacity – Height : 6″
Cutting Capacity – Width : 13-5/8″
Minimum Blade Width : 1/8″
Maximum Blade Width : 3/4″
Blade Length : 93-1/2″
Blade Speed – Low : 1620 ft./min (490m/min.)
Blade Speed – High : 3340 ft./min (990m/min)
Table Size : 15-3/4″ X 18-7/8″
Table T-Slot Size (DxW) : 3/8″ X 3/4″
Table Height From Floor : 40-3/4″
Table Tilt : 3° left – 45° right
Dust Port Diameter : 4″
Overall Dimensions (HxWxD) : 27″ X 19″ X 65-1/2″
Net Weight : 180 Lbs.
Laguna Tools MBAND1412-175 | Best Band Saw
Features:
Motor: 1¾ HP, TEFC, 60Hz.
Amperage: 14/7 (115/230V)
6′ Cord with Nema 5-15P Plug
Illuminated On/Off Direct Start Switch with Safety Key
Steel Frame Construction, Pyramid Spine, Cast Iron Wheels
Cast Iron 21½” X 16″ Micro-Polished Table Surface
Table Height: 38″
Lock Handle Secures Table Flatness
Heavy Duty Cast Iron Trunion 8″ X 13″
Table Tilts Right: 45°, Left: 7°
Positive Stop at 90° with Micro Adjust
Aluminum Rip Fence: 18″ X 5 ½” X ½” with High/Low Feature
Fence Rail: 1″ X 28″ Tubular Steel
Adjustable Nylon Glide Pad”
Quick Release Blade Tensioner w. 6 & 11 O’clock stops
Precision Tension Scale
Hand Wheel Conveniently Mounted under Upper Cabinet
4″ Dust Port. Innovative Table Insert Forces Dust into Port
Laguna 10 Point Ceramic Blade Guides, no moving parts
Magnetic Blade Guard
Ultra Smooth Worm Gear-driven Rack & Pinion
Minimum Flex in Guide Post even when fully Extended
Overview | Laguna Tools MBAND1412-175
The Laguna Tools MBAND1412-175 is a vertical 14” band saw. But what makes this unique? Since there is already an overflow of 14” vertical band saws on the market (14” is the most widely used band saw size), why should you purchase this particular band saw? Well, this is the first 100V band saw that Laguna has made. But they did a damn good job with it.
The entire frame is made from steel, while the 14” blade wheels are built from cast iron. The pyramid spine guarantees superior stability, while a cast iron micro-polished working table makes sawing and cutting a truly premium experience. Wood glides on the table surface like paper on top of a glass table. The precision milled aluminum rip fence has a high/low operating mode, and measures 18” x 5.5” x 0.5”. An adjustable nylon glide pad and tubular steel fence rail make the whole experience even more seamless.
Re-saw capacity is 12″, while the throat depth is 13-5/8”. Blade width capacity ranges from 1/8” to ¾”. The dual tone powder-coated paint looks and feels premium, while also providing amazing anti-corrosive protection. A magnetic blade guard has been provided to prevent the guard from sliding down by its own, which is pretty common with regular rack and pinion systems. This means that the blade guard is now much more secure, and stays right where you put it.
The blade guides are Laguna 10-point ceramic types, which last much longer than steel guides, and carry next to zero friction so that your blade will not get damaged or worn down as it scrubs against the guide while spinning. The heavy duty stand has locking wheels on the bottom so that you can move the stand around inside the workshop, and there are rubber pads on the bottom so that the base does not damage the floor.
Tech Details:
Resaw Capacity: 12″
Throat Capacity: 13⅝”
Blade Length: 115″
Blade Width: ⅛” – ¾”
Miter T-Slot: ⅜” X ¾”
Overall Height: 70¼”,
Guide Post Protrudes 3″ in full up Position
Compact 25″ X 18″ Footprint
Shipping Dimensions: 56″ X 23″ X 23″
Weight Net/Ship: 258/312 Lbs.
SHOP FOX W1729 | 19″ | Best Band Saw
Powermatic PWBS-14CS Deluxe (1791216K) | Best Band Saw
Features:
CARTER quick tension lever speeds blade changes, and the de-tension setting extends blade life during non-use.
Extra-large, two piece cast iron table consists of a 15″ x 15″ tilting section and a fixed 15″ x 5″ extension for a total working surface area of 15″ x 20″
Chip blower ensures a clean, visible cut line.
Durable micro-adjustable dual bearing blade guide system above and below the table for close blade control with less friction.
Exclusive design, quick-release precision T-square style rip fence with 4″ resaw attachment.
Precision balanced, nine spoke cast iron wheels reduce vibration.
Easy to read tensioning gauge settings indicated in “blade width” increments.
Full 6″ Resaw capacity (12″ with riser block) with 13-1/2″ width capacity.
60 watt adjustable lamp built into the body provides direct light on blade and work piece while cutting (bulb not included).
Rigid one-piece welded stand requires no assembly.
Overview | Powermatic PWBS-14CS Deluxe
The Powermatic 1791216K Model PWBS-14CS Deluxe, 14” stand-mounted vertical band saw is definitely one of the finest woodworking machines ever created. The machine offers amazing value for money, and is used by a wide variety of people such as professional woodworkers, workshop trainers in schools and colleges, and DIY enthusiasts at home.
From the outside, it seems like any other regular 14” vertical band saw. You have the usual cast iron frame with dual cabinet doors on the top and bottom for easy access to the wheels and blades. The wheels are made from cast iron and feature 9 spokes. They have a nice rubber coating on the tracks to keep the blade in place, and have been precision mounted with the help of computerized equipment, right from the factory.
There is the usual tension adjustment knob on the top of the idler wheel cabinet, so that you can increase and decrease tension in precise, discreet steps. Everything is powered by a nice little 1.5hp 11A electric motor which is located in the bottom cabinet towards the rear of the machine. But what is it that makes this machine so enjoyable to operate? Sure the specs look very impressive, but you can find similar specs on competing models at the same price.
But here are a few things that you probably won’t find on the competitors – a dedicated 40W lamp for spot lighting, an air hose to blow away the saw dust, a quick-release lever for adjusting tension in seconds, and a conveniently located 4” dust hose right beneath the cast iron working table. You can look at specs and materials all you want, but the end user experience is influenced by these little things. When you don’t have proper ambient lighting, you simply cannot make those precise cuts no matter how precise your machine, or how experienced your hands are. In that case, just use the built-in lamp.
When your table is clogged up with saw dust, you can’t slide that board of wood along a perfectly straight line without messing up the cut. That is where the included air hose comes in. Need to buy a fence or miter gauge with other models? Not with this one, since both of those extremely crucial accessories are already included, and snap onto the working table within seconds.
Need to adjust the tension in the middle of work, but don’t have the time to turn the tension adjustment knob 30 times? Well, just use the quick release lever on the back to set the tension on any one of the following levels – minimum, medium, and max. Just flip the lever, and you saved yourself from a couple minutes of knob-turning.
Tech Details:
Band Saw Size/Wheel Diameter (In.) 14
Cutting Capacity Width (In.) 13-1/2
Cutting Capacity Height (In.) 6
Blade Length (In.) 93-1/2
Minimum Saw Blade Width (In.) 1/8
Maximum Saw Blade Width (In.) 3/4
Blade Speed (SFPM) 3,000
Table Size (L x W) (In.) 15 x 15
Table Height from Floor (In.) 44
Table Tilt (Deg.) 10 Left, 45 Right
Table Size with Extension (L x W) 15 x 20-1/2
Dust Port Outside Diameter (In.) 4
Motor Power (HP) 1-1/2
Motor Voltage (V.) 115/230
Motor Current (Amps) 11/5.5
Grizzly G0561 | Swivel Metal Cutting Band Saw
Features:
Built for accuracy and production. Easy angle set-ups between 0 and 60 degrees means no wasted time between cuts
Lever controlled blade guide locks allow adjustments right up to the work piece for optimum support
Quick release lever and stock length stop to get on with the next cut
Automatic shut-off
Hydraulic feed control
Quick positioning vise
Cooling system
Includes blade
Overview | Grizzly G0561
Do you need a compact and lightweight machine to cut metal pipes and sheets? Have limited space in your already crowded workshop, but don’t want to compromise on speed and quality? Well, Grizzly Industrial has got your back with their G0561 metal cutting band saw. It is a horizontal band saw designed especially for cutting metal, although you can cut almost anything with it as long as the thickness is less than 7”.
This machine comes with some really cool features such as automatic shut-off, hydraulic feed control, etc. Here is what the automatic shutoff does- it detects when the top arm has reached the end of its cycle, i.e. when it has reached the lowest point. It means that the machine has cut through the stock of wood or metal, and the system will turn off automatically. This is of course activated by pressure sensing elements on the bottom rail, which can detect when the top arm is open or closed.
The hydraulic feed rate adjustment is designed so that you don’t have to manually feed the saw blade. Gravity pulls the top arm down into the stock, and you can control the speed at which it falls by adjusting the valve flow rate of the hydraulic suspension. Just turn a tiny little knob to control the valve, just like you would control the flow of a tap. Then leave the machine come back after a certain time period to find the work completed, and the machine turned off automatically.
There is a coolant pump that drips coolant onto the blades, and you absolutely need this feature while cutting metals other than tin or copper. There is a blade brush to scrape away all of the metal fillings and powder that get stuck onto the blade, so that you don’t have to manually clean every single bit of it afterwards. You still need to clean the machine, just not as much as you normally would have to if the brush wasn’t there. The footprint of this machine is just 13” x 38”, and shipping weight is nearly 343 pounds. Blade speed can be varied between 90, 135, 195, and 255 FPM (feet per minute).
Tech Specs:
Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, prewired 110V
Maximum capacity circular @ 90 degrees: 7″
Maximum capacity rectangular @ 90 degrees: 7″ x 12″
Maximum capacity circular @ 45 degrees: 5″
Maximum capacity rectangular @ 45 degrees: 4-3/4″ x 4-1/2″
Blade speeds: 90, 135, 195, 255 FPM
Footprint: 13″ x 38″
Coolant capacity: 2-1/2 gal.
Blade size: 93″ x 3/4″
Included blade size: 93″ x 3/4″ x 6 TPI (similar to Grizzly model G5124)
Overall dimensions: 48″L x 16″W x 40″H
Approximate shipping weight: 343 lbs.
Shop Fox W1706 | 14″ Wheels & Fence
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