Here is an adventure of 2500km that traces the twisting trail of ‘Warlu’, a legendary serpent that left the ocean near Coral Bay, Ningaloo Reef and slithered its way north. We re-trace the path of this legendary serpent, starting just outside of Broome and set about at finding out why this route is so special.
As the story goes, the serpent created the Gascoyne, Pilbra and Kimberley Regions of Western Australia, made giant gorges and became firmly entrenched in the aboriginal Dreamtime. Legend has it that Warlu was on the trail of two boys that had broken tribal law by killing and eating a forbidden bird.
Our journey begins at the ‘12 mile’, just outside of Broome and not far from here, heading towards Port Hedland, we stumble across The Mango Place. This little gem is a mango plantation and sells all things mango from wines to smoothies, even a mango pizza. Does the thought of beef and mango pie entice your taste buds, or what about a slice of mango liqueur cake? Forget about the waistline by telling yourself about all the nice long walks you’ll be doing. I can imagine your RV being loaded with all types of happy hour reinforcements to be christened at the next great campsite. Yes life on the road can be really tough at times!
After our tip through the Gibb River Road, we’d decided we’d seen enough red dust, but there are some spots like Barn Hill Station that we just couldn’t pass without dropping in and investigating. Situated some 128km form Broome and approximately 8km off the Great Northern Highway, the pindan red sands lead to beautiful white beaches and crystal-clear waters and this beautiful spot has plenty of shady spots for big rigs. The number-one rule is always leave gates as you found them so make sure you shut all the gates behind you on the way in and out.
There are amenity blocks and a covered communal area and while most will be attracted to the beautiful beach and fishing, don’t overlook the opportunity for taking lots of photographs because the contrasting colours in the area will astound you. Limited powered sites are available but many choose to stay overlooking the beach and run generators. A walk to the rocks will reveal some amazing natural sandstone landscapes and Barn Hill Station could perhaps be best described as basic but beautiful, which is just the way we like it.
The road out to the coast is corrugated red sand which is suitable for towing a heavy van on, provided that you drive to the conditions and slow right down. Even driving off-road vans at highway speeds through here will only result in feeling pain in your hip pocket, so slowing down to smell the roses is the only way to go.
A short drive south will bring you to Port Smith Caravan Park but as with all coastal areas near lakes, sandflies and mosquitoes can be a problem. Some fellow travellers told us that the fishing here is great, so it might just be worth your while to stock up on insect repellent for the chance to wet a line or two.
The next port of call on the Warlu Way is Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park. You can refuel at Sandfire Roadhouse and you may need a top up by then but remember, fuel is not cheap in this area so always put aside a little more than you expect to pay when travelling here. If you have long-range fuel tanks or jerry cans, filling up at Roebuck Plains Roadhouse is a better option. One thing I have learned about outback touring is that it’s always a long way between fuel stops and it can put major holes in your plans to find out that a remote roadhouse has ran out of fuel or doesn’t even sell the fuel you require, so always top up when you get the chance. Checking with information centres along the way can be invaluable as they are often aware of these situations, as rare as they can be.
There are no strangers at Eighty Mile Beach, just friends you haven’t met yet! Although this statement could be applied to other places, we found it to be an accurate way to describe the warm, friendly vibe we got at this place. To see green grass and well spaced powered van sites is always appealing, but to be so close to the beach yet separated from on shore winds is pure joy. Again there is a red sandy road to negotiate to from the highway but it is worthwhile when you are greeted by this beautiful oasis.
Locals such as Billy and his friends that fish and are involved in Coastal Watch, are more than happy to help with fishing and safe beach 4WDing tips. The fishing is excellent on high tide with threadfin and blue salmon as well as mulloway on offer for the catch. Don’t be surprised if, on the short walk to the beach, you are greeted with a forest of fishing rods. And don’t worry if you don’t have the right fishing gear because the caravan park shop does; that includes bait as well.
I’ve met some beaut people in my travels but I reckon Billy takes the cake, and we were so impressed with the whole area and the atmosphere that we decided to extend our stay, even though we were running to a tight schedule. Eighty Mile Beach is somewhere that you’ll promise yourself to return to and is a jewel in the West Australian coast.
Cape Keraudren is located 130km east of Port Hedland with Pardoo Roadhouse almost at the turn-off point. We were told that the road in from the highway will soon be sealed, which will make this area even more appealing to RVers. There are several different camping areas to choose from, all with nearby toilets and it’s nice and handy to the beaches for swimming or fishing. Make sure you bring your own drinking water and any camping fees can be paid to the local ranger, who is also a wealth of information on the area. Cape Keraudren also marks the end of the rabbit-proof fence, which is the longest fence in the world at 1837km.
Port Hedland is a powerhouse where huge amounts of iron ore are shipped around the world, 24/7. Long lines of wagons filled with iron ore stretch out as far as the eye can see, pulled by multiple locomotives as they make their way from Mt Morgon mines and back again with their lucrative cargo to load on the massive cargo ships. A trip to Port Hedland is an opportunity to see this process in action. Named after Captain Peter Hedland who explored the harbour in 1863 and now with a population of 14,000, this is the largest town in the Pilbara and the highest tonnage port in Australia.
The Don Rhodes Mining Museum is situated close to Port Hedland and is a great open-air display of mining and railway machinery of years gone by and the best part is that it’s free of charge. There’s a large, bronze statue of a railway worker which symbolises the Port’s rich industrial heritage. Pretty Pool is also close to the Port area and is a great place for a swim or a barbecue. The locals just love it.
Leaving Port Hedland and heading south-west for about 40km before turning onto the Great Northern Highway, head towards Mt Newman. On the way you’ll come across Auski Roadhouse, 99km west of Tom Price and at the junction of the Great Northern Highway and the Nanutarra-Munjina Road. It’s a good idea to fill up here before heading into Karijini National Park and you can also source maps, info and a quick bite to eat while you’re here.
Back on the road, and you’ll come to the Munjina East Gorge Lookout, 12km south of the roadhouse. Your RV will be dwarfed by the huge gorge walls and the ever-changing colours. There’s a covered observation deck from where you can take in the surrounding beauty and it’s a top spot to stop for a cuppa.
Karijini National Park is in the Hamersly Range of the Pilbara and is the second largest national park in Western Australia. This national park is well known for its magnificent gorges, waterfalls and waterholes and has an amazing array of wild life. Only being just off the highway, it’s accessible by 2WD vehicles towing RVs. However, to explore the full reaches of the park, a 4WD would be required. We stopped at Dale’s Gorge, which is not only central to the information centre but also to the rest of the gorges.
Fortescue Falls is definitely worth a look because as it’s close to Dale’s Gorge Camping Area and you’ll be able to see the waterfalls and the gem of them all — Fern Pool. If you’re feeling fit enough, you could also try the walk down to Circular Pool for a dip, or just admire the view from above the gorge. Karijini National Park is a must-see destination in Western Australia and is well worth getting off the beaten track from the coast.
Leaving Karijini and heading west, you’ll drive through the mining towns of Tom Price and Paraburdoo. Tom Price is a very tidy little town with one caravan park, which has gravel sites and is well kept. You can stock up on supplies from the supermarket and in the centre of town there are beautifully kept garden areas with shady spots; just perfect for lunch stopovers.
Approaching Paraburdoo, you’ll be surprised to see the tails of jet aeroplanes at the airport ferrying miners on their fly-in fly-out rosters to and from the capital cities. Some 220km west of Paraburdoo, you’ll come across the North West Costal Highway and just over 110km north, you’ll want to turn off to Exmouth, Coral Bay and Ningaloo Reef, the world’s longest fishing reef.
We chose to head for Coral Bay for its beautiful beaches, close to the caravan parks and its local shopping centre. The bay is a great place for snorkelling with its crystal-clear, shallow waters or you can take an adventurous, escorted quad-bike tour to get your heart racing. This is a great place to hang around for a while, but make sure you book in advance because it can get quite busy in peak season.
So did we find Warlu in our travels along this legendary trail? Well, not exactly, but this well signposted, off-the-beaten-track trip is an interesting beach-to-bush-and-back-again adventure, unlike any other in Australia. The Dreamtime legend of Warlu adds to the experience of seeing some of the most beautiful beaches, gorges and waterfalls in the world. This trip should be at the top of your list as one of the very best.
MUST SEES
Karijini National Park
This park is the second biggest national park in Western Australia and is well known for its spectacular gorges, waterfalls, and swimming holes. Access is off Karijini Way.
Eighty Mile Beach
This beach is located on the north-west coast of WA and is between Port Hedland and Broome. It’s a local fishing mecca and the caravan park here is one of the best in the land.
FREEBIES
The Don Rhodes Mining Museum
This museum is situated close to Port Hedland and is a great open-air display of mining and railway machinery of years gone by.
Fortiscue Falls
These falls located in the Karijini National Park provide a top little swimming hole and a great way to cool off after a nice walk.
INFORMATION
Karijini Visitors Centre
Where: Karijini National Park
Ph: (08)9189 8121
Exmouth Visitors Centre
Where: Murat Road, Exmouth
Ph: (08) 9949 1176
Web: www.exmouthwa.com.au
WHERE TO STAY
Eighty MILE BEACH CARAVAN PARK
Where: Great Northern Hwy Eighty Mile Beach
Ph: (08)9176 5941
Web: www.eightymilebeach.com.au
BARN HILL STATION
Where: Great Northern Hwy, Lagrange
Ph: (08)9192 4975
Web: www.barnhill.com.au
CAPE KERAUDREN
Where: 14 km north of the Great Northern Hwy, opposite Pardoo Roadhouse.
Ph: (08) 9175 8000
GETTING THERE
The journey starts just outside of Broome which is located on the north-west coast of Western Australia, 2200km north of Perth and follows the Warlu Way through the Pilbara and onto Coral Bay.
CHEAP TREATS
BROOME COURTHOUSE MARKETS
Located on the corner of Fredrick and Hamersley streets in the historical Broome courthouse gardens the markets run all year round every Saturday from 8am until 1pm and Sundays from the Easter weekend until October.
THE MANGO PLACE
This Mango farm sells all things mango from smoothies right through to pizzas and you can experience their products from $6. They’re located at 12 Mile, just outside of Broome on Kanagae Drive.