EXPLORER LIKE THE EXPLORERS OF 1770
WORDS BY BOB BOWERS,
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BOB AND PHYLLIS BOWERS
On the Queensland coast between Bundaberg and Gladstone lies a tranquil coastal destination just waiting to be discovered and explored by modern day adventurers: the Town of 1770 and Agnes Water. Now popular with fishos and travellers looking for a laid-back holiday spot, this stretch of coastline was first explored by Cook and Flinders and later became infamous as ships such as the Agnes and the Countess Russell came to grief.
The Town of 1770 actually took a good many years to earn its unique name in honour of its history. At around eight o’clock at night, on May 23rd, 1770, a ship’s anchor descended to the sandy ocean floor on the Queensland coast, 3km off shore in Bustard Bay. The ship was The Endeavour; her Master, Lieutenant James Cook (later Captain). He took a party ashore to explore the country, rowing up Round Hill Creek and collecting plant specimens, named Bustard Bay for the bird life observed there, then moved on.
Leaping forward in time almost a century, Agnes Water was named after “The Agnes” a coastal schooner lost off shore in 1873. After being used for sawmilling in the late 1800s the area became a holiday destination, and holiday weekenders dotted the locality, showing a preference for Round Hill. It was there that the Town of 1770 was finally named in 1936 in honour of James Cook’s first Queensland landing. These days, the permanent population is around 1800 but it swells many times this during peak holiday periods.
MODERN-DAY EXPLORATION OF THE TOWN OF 1770 AND AGNES WATER
The first pointer to modern-day explorers heading for 1770 is the Fingerboard Roadhouse 30km away: as you drive by, you’ll see a large pointing finger painted on rock. As our first destination was to be the 1770 Camping Ground it was a left turn at the Agnes Water shopping centre then 6km to 1770, where our attention was immediately caught by the bright pink LARC amphibious vehicle parked at the marina. The high speed catamarans are moored here, ready to take you across to Lady Musgrave Island’s coral-fringed playground. Just past the famous brightly painted “The Tree” watering hole is the 1770 Camping Ground, right on the beach of a sandy bay with expansive views across the Round Hill Creek mouth towards the ocean and Bustard Bay beaches. Where else in Queensland can you sit outside your van, on a beautiful sandy beach, and watch the sun set over the ocean and headlands?
Now that you’ve discovered 1770, let the exploration begin! A good place to start is the very spot where Cook landed more than 240 years ago at Round Hill Headland. Just a short walk, or shorter drive, up the hill from camp is a monument commemorating Cook’s landing at the bay below. Further on is the Joseph Banks Conservation Park. The massive anchor of the emigrant vessel The Countess Russell was put on display here in 1972. In a gale, at midnight on 21st August 1873 she came to grief at Wreck Rock, south of Agnes Water. No lives were lost but she broke up and lay hidden for almost a century until the anchor became exposed after a cyclone.
There are two short walks on the headland, Wave Lookout (90m) and Bustard Bay Lookout (300m). Wave Lookout overlooks a rocky bay where wild surf pounds the shoreline: it doesn’t take much of a leap to imagine what conditions must have been like for the unlucky mariners who lost their lives in the rough seas. Bustard Bay Lookout has panoramic views across the bay to Bustard Head on the horizon.
Back at the campground the ritual “Happy Hour” takes place every afternoon, but many – including us – head for the beach with glass in hand to soak up the last rays of the sun as it sinks into the ocean, enjoying the blazing sunset.
Having a cuppa, wine, beer or meal at “The Tree” 1770 Beach Hotel with unsurpassed views of Bustard Bay is a must. This well-patronised local haunt was once the only shop in town, serviced by a dirt track which was a 3-4 hour drive from the highway. It became reborn as the 1770 Beach Hotel in 2007.
TAKING TO THE WATER
Round Head Creek and bay is ideal for relaxed paddling in canoe, kayak or on a board, and it’s easy to launch a tinny for a spot of fishing. You’ll see fishos everywhere here; not only on the water, but standing on the shore or casting in a line from small rocky outcrops. But you can do more than simply catch fish in this township; you can feed them too! Kids love to join in the ‘fish feeding frenzy’ at the marina, where pieces of bread thrown into the water will soon have schools of fish fighting for the tasty morsels.
Now for real exploration! From the 1770 marina there are many exciting trips on offer. The two most popular are the LARC’s day-long Paradise Tour and the catamaran’s day trip to Lady Musgrave Island. We had to choose one or the other so it was the LARC for us. While there are similar reef trips all along the Queensland and West Australian coasts there is nothing like the LARC trip anywhere else in Australia.
To quote the captain, “The LARC is a boat with wheels not a truck that floats!” The LARC travels 30km along the coastline crossing the mouths of four tidal creeks before four-wheel driving up the very steep climb to the historic Bustard Bay Lighthouse Station. For 118 years from 1868 a lighthouse keeper climbed the internal spiral staircase to light a lamp to keep passing vessels safe. When it became automated in 1986, in spite of its isolation, vandals trashed the buildings. In 2002 restoration began to bring the heritage listed site back to pristine condition. Now visitors are permitted to tour the restored buildings and climb the lighthouse internal staircase to take in the 360 degree view.
Volunteer caretakers look after the buildings and tell visitors of tragic history, hardships and restoration triumph. A stopover on the way back allows thrill-seekers the opportunity to sand board down towering dunes on Middle Island.
EXPLORING AGNES WATER
After enjoying our exploration of 1770, we decided it was time to relocate camp to Agnes Water to discover its treasures. We set up at Workman’s Beach, a low cost no-frills campground managed by council. It’s located a kilometre south of the Agnes shopping centre, accessed by a short dirt track above Workman’s Beach. The campground has individual numbered sites under shady trees, on hard sand. You must be self-sufficient as the only facilities are toilets, a cold outdoor shower, picnic tables and free BBQs. Be aware, too, that the sites are NOT suitable for large (20ft plus) vans. To reach the picturesque beach here, wander along a walking track bound by rugged rocky headlands.
The wide main surfing beach, bordered on the southern side by another headland, is near the Agnes shopping centre. This is a favourite spot for long boarders and a hangout for ex-70s surfers, giving visitors plenty of entertainment while they relax on the sand!
Two kilometres past the entrance to Workman’s Campground is an unmarked dirt track to Springs Beach. The beach is the starting point of the Red Rock Walking Trail, a “must do” walk. The 3km (one way) trail traverses low rocky headlands, long isolated beaches and hidden sandy coves. Along the way you will see many magnificent houses in the multi-award-winning eco development clinging to headlands and tucked away in the bush. The track ends at Red Rock but, if time and energy permits, it is worth climbing over the headland onto the endless Flat Rock Beach. We spotted mysterious driftwood tee pee structures on the beaches (for which we still don’t have an explanation!)
Even if you don’t feel inclined to do the entire trail, a short walk will be rewarding. Our final destination was Deepwater National Park 4km south of Agnes along Springs Road. The sandy 4WD track follows the coast, but inland, to Wreck Rock (17km) where the Countess Russell ran aground in 1873. The track meanders through cool dense subtropical rainforest, and along the way you’ll find turnoffs to Flat Rock and Middle Rock.
Flat Rock is an endless beach with the surf crashing onto low flat rocks, while Middle Rock has a campground and rocky outcrop. There is another campground at Wreck Rock, offering a toilet, cold shower and day area. A small sheltered bay just north of a rocky outcrop provides safe swimming. The track continues south over Deepwater Creek and eventually back to Bundaberg, and if you’re lucky you’ll spot some of the wildlife, as we did. We were treated to mum emu and five chicks trotting along the track towards us.
CHEAP TREATS
DISCOVERY COAST HISTORICAL SOCIETY MUSEUM
Best place to learn about the history of the area and James Cook’s exploration.
Location: 71 Springs Road, adjacent to the Information Centre. Phone: 07 4974 9511
Cost: $3 each. Opening hours: Sat 10am to 4pm, Mon, Wed, Thur, Fri 1pm to 4pm.
STAND UP PADDLING
Hire a stand up paddle board for $20 an 1 hour. Enjoy a traditional Hawaiian sport which promotes balance, strength and general fitness.
Location: 1770 foreshore.
P: 0421 026 255
E: info@1770sup.com.au
W: www.1770SUP.com.au
KAYAK HIRE
Hire a kayak from 1770 Liquid Adventures to explore the beauty of Round Hill Creek at your leisure. Hire cost is from $25/hr/person.
Location: 1770 foreshore.
P: 0428 956 630
W: www.1770liquidadventures.com.au
1770 BEACH HOTEL: THE TREE
Pass the time with a drink overlooking the beach and picturesque Round Hill Creek. The only shop in town in the 1970s, this historic business has been reborn as “the only place to be” today.
SURF LESSONS
Two companies offer surf lessons at Agnes Water beaches. The surf is ideal for learners.
P: 0402 328 515
E: reef2beachsurf@gmail.com
W: www.Reef2beachsurf.com
FREEBIES
All water and beach based activities.
Swimming, surfing, boating, fishing, paddling.
ROUND HILL HEADLAND
Explore and walk Road Hill Headland at 1770. Head on up the hill from the 1770 Camping Ground to the Cook Monument, and view the salvaged anchor of 1873 wreck of the Countess Russell to Joseph Banks Conservation Park. From here it is a 90m (one way) walk to Wave Lookout with views of a rocky bay and back to Agnes. Another 300m (one way) walk is to the top and Bustard Bay Lookout with panoramic views of Round Hill Creek mouth. Here you can watch boats negotiating the bar and enjoy views of the beaches along Bustard Bay to distant Bustard Head.
RED ROCK WALKING TRAIL (3KM ONE WAY)
Two kilometres south of the entry to Workman’s Beach Campground is an unmarked short dirt track to Springs Beach. This exhilarating hike is along beaches, over headlands, along boardwalks, on small sandy coves to Red Rock Headland. For those with energy spare it is fairly easy to hike over Red Rock Headland and down to Flat Rock Beach. Allow 2.5hours to Red Rock and back.
1770 MARKETS
The 1770 Markets are held on the 2nd and 4th Sunday of the month at the 1770 SES Grounds.
SUNSET AT 1770
At sunset, grab your chair and glass of bubbly and take them down to the beach at 1770. The sandy beach at the bay on Round Hill Creek shores is facing west, very rare in Queensland.
DEEPWATER NATIONAL PARK
If you have a 4WD, take a trip through Deepwater. This sandy track through dense subtropical rainforest leads to endless beaches, Flat Rock, Middle Rock and Wreck Rock (17km) where the emigrant ship the Countess Russell came to grief in 1873. Access is 4km south of Agnes along Springs Road.
MUST SEES
EXPERIENCE THE LARC: PARADISE TOUR
The bright pink Light Amphibious Resupply Cargo (LARC) day tour heads north across 4 creek mouths and along 30km of spectacular isolated beaches to the Bustard Head Lighthouse (1868) complex. The complex has been faithfully restored to its former glory. Morning tea, picnic lunch, historical and environmental commentary, breathtaking scenery is topped off with exhilarating dune sand boarding. Departure days and times vary according to tides, weather conditions and numbers.
P: 07 4974 9422
W: www.1770larctours.com.au
WHERE TO STAY
WORKMAN’S BEACH CAMPING GROUND
Workman’s Beach Camping Ground is located off Springs Rd, Agnes Water (1km from Agnes Water Township). The turnoff to the camp grounds is signposted and is adjacent to the Agnes Water Skate Park, located 200metres along the dirt road. Workman’s Beach Camping Ground is a popular, low maintenance facility and camp sites cannot be booked in advance. Not suitable for vans 20 ft or over. There are 38 numbered campsites, located on hard sand under shady trees. Fees ($6/person/night) are collected each morning by Parks Staff. Generators are permitted, but restrictions apply.
1770 CAMPING GROUND
The 1770 Camping Ground is located beside a sheltered sandy bay in 1770. Turn left at the Agnes shopping centre and drive about 5km to 1770. Many sites are situated under large shady trees and some are right on the beach. Facilities include 100 caravan and camping sites (27 absolute beachfront) modern amenities, laundry, camp kitchen, kiosk with groceries and adjacent to a restaurant. NO pets allowed.
P: 07 4974 9286
W: www.1770campingground.com.au
AGNES WATER BEACH CARAVAN PARK
The Agnes Water Beach Caravan is located just metres from the beach in central Agnes. All 56 caravan sites are powered; cost is from $44 to $59/night. Facilities are top class including amenities and laundry with the Agnes shopping centre a few minutes’ walk. Pets are allowed.
P: 07 4974 7297
W: www.agneswaterbeach.com.au
CAPTAIN COOK HOLIDAY VILLAGE
Captain Cook Holiday Village is located in tropical forest between Agnes and 1770. Turn left at the Agnes shopping centre and drive about 4km towards 1770. 75 powered caravan sites, 6 unpowered sites. Powered sites are from $36 to $44/night and unpowered from $31 to $37/night. Facilities include well-kept amenities, laundry, kiosk, swimming pool, The Deck Bar and Restaurant, BBQs, communal kitchen and public phone. There is a bush walk down to the beach and the park is a wildlife sanctuary. Pets are allowed.
P: 07 4974 9291
W: www.1770holidayvillage.com.au